August Long Weekend on the West Coast of Cape Breton

One of the highlights of every summer since I moved home is the long weekend in August which is usually spent in Cap LeMoine, Cape Breton.  

Back when I first started working at the place I still work at to this day, I met a good friend who had a family place on the west coast of the island and I've been in love with the area ever since the first time we went almost 15 years ago.  

The weather always seems to be nice around this time every year and this year was no exception.  The only downfall was the fire and woods ban that meant we couldn't go any hiking or venture into any wooded areas.  No big deal.  Thrift shopping, beach hopping and sunset chasing kept us busy all weekend.

The house we stayed at this year had a huge deck where we could watch sunsets and meteor showers.  We searched for the northern lights but didn't see any this year.  Just sitting out on that deck on those warm, dark nights in the country was enough for me!

We arrived late afternoon the first day and unpacked and grabbed some food in Cheticamp.  I always sleep so well in the country with the summer breeze coming in through the window and the natural sounds lulling me to sleep. 

Mornings are equally nice and that first morning, I got quite the treat when I walked out onto the deck to catch the first morning rays.  A mother deer and her fawn were grazing on the lawn when suddenly the young one got a burst of energy and started running back and forth across the lawn with mom looking on.  And yes, I did catch this on video! 

Later that day, we drove to Inverness to hit the thrift shops after stopping at the new Dancing Goat location for coffee and sweets.  We've been going to the closet for quite a few years and usually find some things but Sew Thrifty was a new one for me.  I was surprised by what I found there.  I'm very petite and have a very hard time finding pants in the right length without having to hem them or roll them up.  I found two beautiful, gently-worn pairs that day!  

After shopping, there was still plenty of daylight left to hit beautiful Inverness Beach.  Now, this part of the trip was a little disappointing.  I'm used to the beach being all sand.  On this day, there was nowhere that was untouched by rocks.  I tried my best to go in the water without hurting my feet but it was impossible.  There must have been a storm in the days before.  I was in for quite a bit and the water was beautiful but the rocks made it hard to get in and out of the water so I eventually gave up and joined my friend on the shore where she was searching for beach glass. 

We didn't stay that evening for sunset because we had a date to meet my sister and her boyfriend in Cheticamp for supper.  We met at Le Gabrielle and found a table in the lively bar area where there was some live music.  As usual, the food was delicious and I got to spend some quality time with my sister who was home at that time visiting from Alberta.  That evening, the drive back to Cap Lemoine was relaxing as the calm water twinkled under the twilight and the stars shone brightly overhead. 

The rest of the weekend was more beaches, sunsets, stargazing and scenic drives.  And then came the worst part - leaving.  But the best part is knowing that this heavenly place is only a two-hour drive away and I can come back anytime! 

 

And Just Like....Summer is Almost Over for Another Year

It's been such a busy summer that I didn't have time to post about any of the wonderful things I've been doing!  I'm never home except to sleep or get ready for work.  Most days, I head out somewhere to do something immediately after work.  I pack a lunch, take it to work with me, store it in the fridge and it's fresh and ready to eat on the way to whatever adventure awaits.  No time wasted here.  Summer is short and I enjoy every moment of it.  That means my laptop is hardly ever turned on.   

It seems like just yesterday I was packing up my car with camping, swimming, hiking and paddling gear.  I finally broke down and bought an action camera to capture all the memories I knew were coming with all the things I had planned and family coming home from Alberta and I swapped my winter clothes and gear for warm weather adventures. And now it's the end of August already.  They say time flies when you're having fun.  I can certainly say that there's plenty of truth to this because I had an incredible summer.  

Summer was interesting in Cape Breton this year as we saw the province implement a very strict fire ban that also banned anyone from entering forested areas to prevent wild fires.  Nova Scotia and the rest of eastern Canada has seen some pretty big fires recently and one here would be devastating in so many ways.  

The extreme heat and dry conditions started early and I almost had to endure the entire summer with no air conditioning in my car!  Fortunately, I was able to get it fixed before I took any long road trips. While it was a bummer to not do any hiking, I found plenty of things to do outside the woods.  Paddleboarding on the Mira, swimming at Dominion, Black Brook and Ingonish beaches, scenic drives around the Cabot Trail and to Main-a-Dieu, roaming the streets and alleys of the Fortress of Louisbourg, hanging out in Iona with the family, riding the gondola at Cape Smokey, sunset walks by the ocean, swimming in my sister's pool, a long weekend in Margaree and Cheticamp, taking in the festivities at Festiville Baddeck, enjoying a visit from my sister who came all the way from Alberta and, of course, watching my little nephew growing up and learning new things. 

Although the calendar might say summer is winding down and signs of it are all around - leaves are starting to change, kids are heading back to school and the lifeguards and are on their final shifts at the beaches - I still have summer-like activities planned for weeks to come!  This weekend, I plan to go camping in the Highlands and I'm hoping for warm enough weather to do some swimming at some of my favourite beaches.  Paddleboarding on the Mira is done for the year but I'm thinking of trying out the dragon boat paddling that's being offered nearby.  When the woods reopens, I hope to get to the top of the gondola at Cape Smokey in Ingonish to do some hiking, kayaking and biking.  In mid-September, I'm taking a road trip to Mahone Bay.  

The only thing missing this summer and the one I will miss the most if it doesn't happen is my annual camping trip in Framboise with Dad.  Because of the fire ban, we were unable to go.  If it lifts very soon, we might get a late-summer trip in but it doesn't look good.  Dad doesn't like camping later in the summer as the nights get too cold.  If the fire ban doesn't get lifted in the next couple of weeks, I might convince him to just suck it up and camp in the Provincial campground in St. Peters for the night.  At least we can say we got out and we are close to all the things we like doing in that area. 

 

A Fall Trip Around the Cabot Trail

When the Celtic Colours Festival schedule was released, I immediately looked at it to seeif there were any community events I could attend on my days off.  Specifically, I was searching for guided hikes.  Two stuck out but I ultimately chose the Aspy Bay Trail because it was longer and in an area of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park that I hadn't done a lot of hiking in. 

The hike started at 10:00 AM and since it was an almost three-hour drive, I left before 7 that morning.  I didn't take into account traffic delays with the Newfoundland ferry traffic at that hour of the day and construction work.  I knew by the time I reached Ingonish that I would be late and there was no point in rushing because I was never going to make it in time.  I was ok with that since the wind came up and it started to rain. Four hours in the highlands trudging over rough terrain didn't sound all that appealing in the rain. 

I took my time going over the Cabot Trail admiring the beautiful fall colours. I have to say that this year is the best I've seen the fall colours in a long time and when the sun peaked out every now and again, it made those sprawling vistas even more beautiful!

It was 11:00 when I passed the trailhead to Aspy Bay.  Before I reached it, I took a little detour and stopped at Cabot's Landing Beach in Cape North.  I was only out of the car five minutes when the weather took a turn for the worse so I turned back to the Cabot Trail and kept going over the mountains.

The Lone Sheiling is one of my favourite stops along The Trail so I stopped there and got at least a little hike in since I missed the one I came for.  It rained there too but at least I had that thick canopy to shelter me.  I contemplated hiking the Skyline Trail as I hadn't done it yet this year but it was way too windy to enjoy it. 

I intended to eat my lunch in Cheticamp but hunger struck about a half hour from the village.  I stopped at La Grand Falaise and faced my car toward the ocean so I had a view while I ate in the warmth of the car. 

At Cheticamp Island I attempted to walk the beach but, once again, the weather took a turn for the worse.  This time it was high wind, heavy rain and hail!  

I left the island and drove straight through Margaree, Lake O'Law and Middle River where the fall colours were even more spectacular!  Even with the poor weather conditions, it was an amazing day and I got to do a trip around the trail while the leaves were still on the trees and turning those vibrant colours.  This time next week, they won't be nearly as nice. 

Labour Day weekend in Margaree

Labour Day; the final long weekend of the summer and one that I try to go all out for since I have nine months of fall, winter and spring to go through before the weather gets nice enough to do things comfortably outdoors again. 

Usually, Labour Day is spent with friends in Margaree and that's exactly where I headed on the Labour Day long weekend this past September. 

I didn't take the long way there this time because it was the only day that was supposed to be nice enough to go swimming all weekend and I wanted to get there in time to have lunch, stop at the house to change into my swimsuit and make the 40-minute drive to Inverness Beach.  

We arrived at the house with the incredible views of the sea in the early afternoon and after settling in and getting beach-ready, we headed to Inverness.  

While my friend wasn't in the least bit interested in going in the water, I couldn't wait to get in!  Even this late in the season, the water was still warm and the air was warm too.  I listened in amusement as some middle-aged men swimming nearby teased a tourist from a more southern destination.  They thought the water was warm like I did but the tourist just stood there shivering and refusing to get ducked.  

When I finally got out of the water, my friend was a long ways down the beach searching for sea glass.  I sat in my chair with a book and enjoyed the relaxing sounds of the gentle waves and seagulls above.  After I read a chapter and was dried off, I started down the beach.  I caught up with my friend who, by that time, had a baggie filled with colourful beach glass.  I stopped for a quick chat and continued down the beach for another long time.  I never realized how long that beach is.  When I turned back, I still hadn't reached the end!

We decided on Wabo's Pizza for supper  We left Inverness just before dark and stopped at the house to change out of our beach clothes.  By the time we were ready to head to Cheticamp, it was dark and we were hungry.  We still had another 30-minute drive before we reached the pizza shop.  We ordered just before we left and got there just as the shop was closing!  

That evening, we sat in the living room with the big windows overlooking the deck.  The air was cool but after a while of staring at this deck and being enticed to step outside and admire that night sky with all those stars, I decided to step outside for a bit. 

The air was crisp but there wasn't a cloud in sight!  The night sky in the country sure is something to see!  I took a few pictures to see if they would come out and was surprised to see something I wasn't expecting in some of them.  Some pink and purple strips were visible to the north.  I checked my Northern Lights finder app and sure enough, there was a good chance of spotting them that night and several of my friends who were camped out nearby already had pictures posted.  We don't usually see the Northern Lights this far south but they've been appearing in the night sky over Cape Breton quite a bit this past year!

The next day wasn't as warm and sunny as the day before but we set out early to make the most of it.  We started the day by driving to the Dancing Goat to pick up some sweets as we knew it would be closed on the way home the next day.  I hoped to see the giant sunflowers in Margaree along the way but we were too late; they had already bloomed and withered away for the season.  

We next headed to Cheticamp to attempt a hike along the Salmon Pools Trail.  We tried the trail a few years ago but turned around when it started to rain.  A few years before that we did hike quite a ways in but had to turn around when we ran out of time.  We didn't make it all the way to the end this time either but we got a little further than before and got to enjoy the late summer air and the peace of the river and forest sounds. 

I always hate leaving the country to go home.  I always said if I could find a way to make a living in a place like Cheticamp, Inverness or Ingonish, I would move there in a flash.  I guess there's always retirement! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jersey Cove, Black Brook, Inverness and Everywhere in Between

It's always nice to have friends in various places around Cape Breton.  One such good friend has a seasonal home in Jersey Cove at the Joyful Journeys RV Park. I pass through there often on the way to Ingonish so I always make a point to stop in and pay a visit or, as was the case early in the summer, stop by, head out on an adventure in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and stay the night in Jersey Cove. 

I left early that morning with the beach on my mind.  The earlier the better.  It's about an hour's drive to Jersey Cove and another hour to Black Brook Beach where I intended to spend the day swimming and soaking up the sun.  And what weather we had this summer!!  With soaring temperatures, more sunny days than not and clear night skies, you'll hear no complaints from me! 

 

Anyway, I arrived in Jersey Cove around 9:30.  My friend wasn't quite ready but once she was, we took a short walk around the grounds and down to the water before heading toward the Highlands and onto one of our favourite beaches. 

Two years ago, we went to this beach and it was beautiful but we faced disappointment last year when we went.  The beach was rough and there was hardly any sand.  It was so bad, we had to go swimming elsewhere.  I hoped and hoped we wouldn't face the same this year and fortunately, the beach was back to it's usual glory!  

 

Long story short, the water was crystal clear and warm and the beach was all soft sand.  As per usual, I didn't want to get out of the water but when hunger struck and the sun started to dip in the sky, I reluctantly found a spot on the sand to dry off.   

We hung around Ingonish for a while just enjoying the sights, walking North Bay Beach and eating French fries by the shore. It was almost dark when we headed back and we were too tired to have the bonfire and smores we planned to have that evening before bed.  

The next morning brought with it another adventure to another one of my favourite beaches on the other side of the island and this was going to be an all-day and evening event because I never drive all the way to Inverness to leave before sunset.  Sunset is the main event on the West Coast of Cape Breton Island. 

Although we arrived quite early, there were no parking spots close to the beach so we had to walk quite a ways with all our gear. When we finally reached the sand, we found a perfect spot to spend the day.  I dropped my things and stripped down to my swimsuit and went in the water right away.  I'm not one to just lie in the sun for hours and hours; being in the water is my main purpose to be at any beach, especially when its the one with the warmest and clearest waters on the island!

I spent many hours floating in those clear, warm waters that day.  I also walked the length of the beach and searched for beach glass with my friend who was more keen on lying in the sun than swimming for hours on end.  About an hour before sunset, we left the beach to get something to eat in Cheticamp and pay a quick visit to my sister who was visiting from Alberta and staying in a campervan at the local campground. We got back to the beach just in time for the evening show.

I, once again, stripped down to my bathing suit and entered those clear, warm waters.  The air was cooler by that time but the water was still warm.  The sun was quickly falling toward the horizon when I took my spot in the glowing strip that crossed from the horizon to the shore.  There's just something about being in the dark, vast ocean at sunset.  I can't think of anything more relaxing.  I floated in the calm water until that glowing red ball was no more and sky turned dark.  In the distance, I could hear the sound of bagpipes coming from somewhere above the beach. 

We made the long drive back to Jersey Cove via the Margaree Valley and Englishtown Ferry.  I dropped my friend off at her trailer and made the journey home alone.  I'm ok with that.  Late night drives with my music blaring and the sunroof open to the moon and stars above and the windows down to let in the warm night air are my kinda thing!

I Love These Long Weekends in Margaree

Besides my regular vacation I take in Mid-August, the long weekend during the first week of August is one of my favorite parts of summer because that's when I usually head to Margaree with friends and stay in the area for several days hiking, swimming and enjoying the peace and quiet of the country. 

 

This year was a little different because someone who had never been there came along.  An international student from the big city who wanted to get a taste of authentic Cape Breton rural life. Since he had never been outside of the urban area of the island, I decided to take the long way around the Cabot Trail to get to Margaree.  

We left early to make it to Ingonish in time to have a bite to eat for supper and than drove onto Pleasant Bay and Cheticamp while it was still light enough to enjoy the scenery. Of course, we made a few stops at some key locations along the way.  There was sightseeing at The Point and Ice Cream at the lighthouse in Neil's Harbour.

I love showing off my beautiful island to new people.  This trip was extra special as the person was young and super excited to be seeing something new.  Watching his eyes light up and his head spin around in all directions as he took it all in made me super happy.  To hear someone who was so well-traveled ohhh and awww at the beauty of my little island made me realize how lucky I am to live in such a special place. 

 

It was almost dark when we reached Cheticamp and stopped for gas and some snacks.  It was quite late by time we pulled into the old country house that would be home for the next few nights. 

There's something about staying in an old country home overlooking the sea.  Those old homes have character!  This one is well over 100 years old.  Our foreign guest expressed a mixture of emotions upon discovering that there was no Wi-Fi, the floors creaked and mice were frequent visitors.  I think he was culture-shocked for a bit at first but settled in quite nicely to his rural digs.  

 

I always sleep so well in the country especially in an old house such as the one we were staying in.  No distractions from modern amenities, just the sound of the wind howling outside and the fresh summer night air flowing through the windows.   

Over the next few days, we made good use of our time.  The first day was the only one that was hot and sunny enough to head to the beach so that's exactly what we did.  We drove the 40 minutes to Inverness and staked a spot in the sand.  My newfound friend-from-away grew up in a desert climate so he wasn't used to taking dips in the ocean nor could he swim.  I got a good laugh watching him slowly inch his way to deeper water to duck while he shivered in the icy water.  The water wasn't cold to me at all at 21 degrees Celsius but I can understand how someone from a dry, hot climate would find it cold. He finally ducked and tried desperately to mimic me floating in the salty water.  It was so salty, it seemed almost impossible to sink.  Alas, every time he tried, he sank beneath the waves.  I gave him credit for venturing into the water at all let alone trying to swim!

 

The second day, we did some hiking as it was too cool for swimming.  We drove to Cheticamp first for morning coffee and breakfast at Evangeline and a scenic drive along the Cheticamp Back Road in search of an elusive look-off we were told about at Plateau.  

Since we were in the area and were making good time, we decided to take a hike into the Gypsum Quarry.  Although it was too cool for swimming, it was too warm for hiking.  We found that out about 20 minutes into our hike when we felt like turning around but had gone that far, we might as well go all the way to the quarry.  

Our plans to be out of Cheticamp and on the way to Egypt Falls for a hike were delayed when we got caught in parade traffic.  I always forget about the parade for the Festival de l'Escaouette that happens on the long weekend every year!  So we didn't find the look-off but we did get to see part of the parade before hitting the road again. 

The last time I went searching for Eqypt Falls, I had a hard time finding it.  That was a long time ago and this time I had a GPS so we found the trailhead to the falls pretty quickly. 

It was a about 12 or 13 years ago the last time I did this hike and I remembered it being difficult but very short. It's funny how the memory works.  It took about thirty minutes to reach the falls and the trail was much harder than I remember!  There were very slippery spots and ropes had to be used to get down some of the more steep areas.  To make matters worse, I didn't have the proper footwear for such a hike.  

 

Slowly but surely, we made intact.  One thing that stayed true to my memory was the beauty of the falls.  And once again, our foreign friend was in awe at the natural beauty around him.  He kept talking about all the open spaces and trees!

Our last day in the country was not a very nice one.  Rain, rain, rain. We packed up, cleaned up and headed back to the city. Back to our routines and jobs...until the next long weekend.

A Long Weekend Like the Ones I Used to Have

It was a yearly tradition and then Covid arrived and it wasn't anymore.  Things changed in the years of the pandemic, people changed, routines changed.  I began to think that those August long weekend trips to  Margaree were a thing of the past. 

That's why it was such a surprise when the invite came from the friend I used to travel to Margaree with to spend the weekend there.  I had a four-day weekend coming up for the civic holiday in August and I had a desire to get out of town and spend some time in the country.  And that's exactly what I did. 

We left early that Friday morning and headed straight for Inverness Beach before checking into the old farmhouse that would be home-away-from-home for 3 days. It was supposed to be off and on rain showers all weekend with Friday afternoon being the only time that looked decent enough to enjoy some time at the beach.  The water was lovely...warm and calm as it often is on the west coast of Cape Breton. However, it was windy and probably not the best day to try and set up my new beach tent!  Let's just say it didn't stay in one place like it should have! 

It didn't rain although the sky threatened to at times.  I was just happy to have been able to go for a refreshing dip in the clear, warm water of Inverness Beach followed by a long walk in the surf along that long stretch of coastline. 

Nightfall comes sooner in mid-summer so we left the beach around 5:30 to get back to the house and unpack before dark.  With our chores complete and some reheated leftover pizza in our bellies, we settled in to relax for the evening. 

The next day was a mixed bag of weather so it was hard to decide what to do.  We drove to Inverness to do some thrift store shopping at The Closet.  I was surprised to find quite a few things in that tiny shop.  

Next, we drove to Cheticamp intending to hike the Salmon Pools Trail in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.  We attempted this hike a few years ago and had to turn around due to bad weather.  We hoped to finish it this time around but that was not to be.  The moment I turned the car off in the parking lot, the rain started.  We drove back to town and stopped for our traditional ice cream at LeBlanc's General Store (I had the Blackberry Cheesecake ice cream, of course).  

When we exited the store, the rain had stopped and a crowd was gathering along the road.  Curious as to what was going on, we asked someone passing by. "There's a big parade at 2 and they'll be closing this road very soon."  We could have taken the Cheticamp Back Road to get back to Cap LeMoine but instead, we decided to stay right where we were and watch the parade. 

The parade was part of the Festival de l'Escaouette and for a small place, I was surprised at how many floats there were! It was nice to see all the families out with their little ones, smiling and waving and having a good time.  

Back at the house that evening, the skies threatened rain and thunderstorms. The barbecue we had planned was postponed so we stayed indoors and tried our hands at some virtual reality.  I'm not a video game person by any means but I always wanted to try this.  I donned some futuristic-looking headgear and raced my Corvette through the streets of some ancient city in Italy. It was interesting.  I admit it was easy to get caught up in the realistic feel of it and at times, I felt like I was actually behind the wheel! It was fun for a short time but not something I could see myself getting hooked on or doing on sunny days that are best spent outdoors. 

My last day in the Margaree area was again under threatening skies.  It was too cold and windy to head to Inverness for some swimming and too close to rain to do much hiking so we went to Cheticamp and got some coffee and sat on the beach on Cheticamp Island for a while before heading to Le Gabriel for our traditional yearly feed of French Onion Soup and Nachos. 

The weather may not have been great but it wasn't the worst part about the entire weekend; the worst part is always the moment we have to say our goodbyes and hit the road for the long drive home.  But boy, it was nice to be back up there again!

A Fall Trip Around the Cabot Trail that almost didn't Happen

It almost didn't happen. That one thing that I have to do every summer or fall.  The one thing that I've done every year since I was born.  The thing I look forward to every summer.  The quintessential Cape Breton experience.  A time-honored family tradition.  I'm talking about my annual family road trip around the Cabot Trail. 

All summer, I assumed I would, at some point, go around the Cabot Trail but as summer slipped away and fall arrived, it started to look like that might not happen. A  variety of things occurred during those months that threw everything off.  I started a new job, my sister moved home from away and was due to have a baby, a category 2 hurricane struck the island and caused widespread damage and there were some car issues. By early October, it looked like we wouldn't be going around at all.

The weather was nice at the start of October.  So nice that it prompted some discussion about a potential day trip around The Trail amongst my immediate family members.  We set a date.  We would go after all!

We couldn't have picked a better day to do.  Besides the fact that it was a Saturday and I didn't have to work, it was sunny and fairly warm.  We hit all the traditional spots along the way.  Coffee at Robin's Donuts in Bras d'Or, a drive through the pretty town of Baddeck, The Red Barn so the shopaholic in our crew could get their fix and Flora's in Cheticamp, the look-offs in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and, of course, supper at Coastal in Ingonish. 

After supper, we made the drive around the Keltic Lodge, stopped to check out the gift shop and parked for a little while at Ingonish Beach.  The latter being a request by me so I could admire that beautiful beach and the rolling waves and sip on my post-supper coffee.  I walked to Freshwater Lake, took in one of my favorite views and absorbed it all for a moment knowing that I wouldn't be back until the summer.   

The fall colors are usually at their peak that time of year but, unfortunately, the leaves had already mostly fallen from the trees in the big storm weeks earlier.  That being said, any trip around the Cabot Trail is amazing no matter the season or the conditions.  Being in good company certainly helps make it even better!

End of Summer Cape Breton Road Trip - Route 19 to the Cabot Trail and Back

While many see September 1st and back-to-school time as the end of summer, I refuse to acknowledge that the end is here until the official start of fall on September 22nd.   

Currently, I'm still going for almost daily dips in the ocean, I'm still wearing shorts and tank tops no matter what the temperature and I'm still embarking on road trips to explore beautiful CapeBreton Island.   The best thing about this time of year after school goes back is I have the beaches, trails and attractions almost to myself! 

When I looked at the long-term forecast on September 6th, I noticed a series of hot, sunny days coming up.  On September 9th, I embarked on what would turn into a two-day journey through four counties and dozens of little villages in the western and central parts of the island.  

As I made my way along the Trans Canada Highway headed for the turn-off to the Cabot Trail near Baddeck, I was looking forward to a nice big breakfast at one of my favourite restaurants. 

I intended to stop at The Cedar House Restaurant near the Seal Island Bridge. This is something I do at least once before they close for the season.  All I could think about on the way there was the tasty breakfast with sausage, eggs, toast and hash browns. 

I arrived in the parking lot at around 9:30 and was disappointed to see a "CLOSED" sign in the window.  I contemplated waiting around until 11:00, which was the opening time indicated on the sign, but I wanted to get on the road early.   

Fitzgerald's, which is almost next door and has equally delicious breakfast, was also closed.  I settled for a Tim Horton's breakfast sandwich, hash brown and chocolate chip muffin which I bought at the Tim's near Baddeck and ate on the scenic boardwalk in the pretty little village on the Bras d'Or Lakes. 

I love Baddeck. There's just something about that quaint little village that draws me in.  Unfortunately, I didn't get to spend a whole lot of time in the town this year so my little visit that morning, despite being quick and unplanned, was a welcome little rest before heading out on the day's adventure.  

At the Red Barn, I turn onto the world-famous Cabot Trail. I love driving along this part of the Trail through Hunter's Mountain, Middle River, Lake O'Law and onto Margaree Harbour.   

It's a relaxing, beautiful drive, especially when traffic is light as it was on this day.  Road construction annoys me but I admit I was happy to see a road crew working on a stretch of this road that was getting very bad over the last few years. 

I made it to Inverness Beach at 11:30, which was about the time I expected to arrive.  The forecast was calling for showers and clouds were moving in.  Despite a few dark spots in the afternoon, the rain never came, at least not where I was.  

 I heard it rained in other places but I enjoyed a refreshing dip in waters so clear that even without the sun shining down, I could still see straight to the bottom.  I swam for about an hour in those warm, clear waters. 

To dry off, I walked almost the entire length of that four-kilometre beach before coming back to my chair to relax in the sun, which, by that time, was shining.  

 I wasn't expecting it to get hot enough to want to go back in the water but by the time I completely dried off, I was craving another dip. This time of year, I never know if a dip in the ocean will be my last of the season.  I thought to myself "to heck with it, I only live once" and spent the next two hours in the water.  

 

As I floated in the calm sea all by my lonesome, the thought that great white sharks could be lurking nearby didn't even cross my mind.  After all, how scary could a bunch of Ocearch-tagged sharks with names like Jane, Hal and Luna be anyway?

It was late afternoon and starting to cloud over when I came out of the water the second time so I didn't dry off as fast. But it was worth it even if it meant a wet car seat, dripping hair and a car full of caked sand.  

I had planned to stop at some of the beaches along the way to Cheticamp - Chimney Corner, Whale Cove, Belle Cote - but my extra-long visit to Inverness Beach meant I had little time to reach the little Acadian village in time for supper at Le Gabriel Restaurant.  

I did, however, take my time driving along the coast between Margaree Harbour and Cheticamp. This is one of my favourite stretches of road on the island. Ocean on one side, mountains on the other, windy two-lane road stretching through quaint little villages in front of me.  

 

It only took about five minutes for the fantastic staff at Le Gabriel to prepare my veggie nachos and gluten-free chocolate cake, which I enjoyed overlooking the ocean at the bottom of Lapointe Rd. at the edge of town.  The meal was, as it always is, delicious.  As usual, the portions are always too big for me so I was unable to finish all the nachos.  

 

I left room for cake and took the nachos home for a snack later that night. I grabbed a coffee for the road and drove a little ways along the Cabot Trail through the Cape Breton Highlands National Park before turning around at the construction zone near Corney Brook. 

Evening was approaching when I turned off on the Cheticamp Back Road.  I always take this road when heading back towards Route 19. It's a nice change of scenery in the foothills of the mountains.   

At the intersection of the main road, I kept going straight onto Cheticamp Island, another short, but scenic drive I like to do whenever I pass through the area.

Back on the highway, I intended to head towards Baddeck at Margaree Harbour. But almost as if my car knows the way, it turned onto the road that goes through St. Rose and Chimney Corner and then onto the Beach Road #2 in Inverness to find a parking spot in the exact same place I parked only a few hours before.   

Sunset was approaching.  The water was calm.  The water was clear. The air was still warm.  I couldn't resist another dip in the ocean.

The sunsets on the west coast of the island are among the most beautiful I've ever seen anywhere in the world.  Beautiful sunset + dip in warm, clear waters =  an unforgettable summer evening. There's just something about the way those waters glisten in that fading light and the calmness I sense when those gentle waves lull me into a state of sheer bliss.

 

I don't usually like driving home through remote areas late at night because there are a lot of moose and deer around.  I took my time driving along that dark, lonely road through Margaree. Until Next time.... 

Margaree Harbour is Central with Plenty to See and Do Nearby

If you choose to start your Cabot Trail Journey near The Red Barn just past Baddeck, early in your journey around, you'll arrive at Margaree Harbour.  While many people just drive on through and keep driving towards Cheticamp, others stop for a while and take in the many things that make this area of the island one of my favourites. The scenic views are just the beginning!

The beach on the other side of the breakwater is sandy and has very warm water for swimming.  It's also one of the best places on the island for enjoying spectacular sunsets.  

If you continue for a little bit along the road to Chimney Corner and St. Rose, you'll find two of the island's best beaches only minutes apart; Whale Cove Beach and Chimney Corner Beach.  If you keep going even further, you'll find the town of Inverness and its beautiful, long sandy beach.  The whole coast is known for sunsets, warm waters and sandy beaches.  This little extra drive from Margaree Harbour to Inverness only takes you about a half hour off track (longer if you grab something to eat, spend time at any of the beaches or golf at the world-class golf courses in Inverness) but it's worth it.  You can always jump back onto the Cabot Trail where you made the turn off at Margaree Bridge.  

A beautiful sunset at Margaree Harbour

Beautiful Lake O'Law on Cape Breton Island

There are so many beautiful places in Cape Breton, it's hard to list them all!  Lake O'Law is one of my favourites and it's one I make a point to stop at every time I make my way through Middle River and Margaree on my way to the western part of the island.  Sometimes I even spend the night at The Lakes Campground.  There is a stillness along the shores of this lake that is like none other I've ever experienced.  It's quiet, eerily so.  At night, you can see the silhouette of those hills against the sparkling, calm waters of the lake.  I wish I was there right now!  If you ever make your way to the island, you'll pass through this beautiful area on your way around the world-famous Cabot Trail.

There are many lakes in Cape Breton but this one is likely one of the most beautiful lakes on the island and it's easily accessible right along the Cabot Trail.  The provincial park is a great place to stop and stretch your legs while enjoying some of the spectacular scenery.

Yoga, Hikes and Bikes

I've been doing yoga for about 5 years now.  However, I can barely be considered an actual yogi and my yoga "practice" wouldn't even be considered a practice by most yogis.  Basically, I open my iPhone yoga app each morning and follow along, Mimicking poses that I have no idea how to do properly.  I've never done yoga with a group before, never taken a single course nor did I see it necessary to watch videos to learn proper technique.  I thought the app was perfectly fine at teaching me how to do yoga.  That is until I actually took the step to further my "practice" after a friend of mine, who is a yoga teacher, persuaded me to sit in on one of her classes.

I drove the hour and a half to St. Peter's to arrive for the 10:00 class.  About 15 other students were already there setting out their mats. I felt a little like a fish out of water but soon adjusted and felt comfortable once I realized no one was paying any attention to me or what I was doing or how I was doing it.

I know now that I'd been doing yoga wrong all along.  Well, not wrong.  I was told my form was good and I learned the flow pretty quick.  However, when I had been doing it at home using an app with stationary pictures showing poses, I missed out on proper breathing and transitioning techniques.  That one hour-long class changed my whole outlook on yoga.  It had always been beneficial for me (even though I was going about it all wrong - I was at least getting some stretching and relaxation benefits out of it) but now I have the courage to take some more classes and the knowledge to improve my own practice.  I understand now that yoga has multiple benefits that go beyond stretching and relaxing and I am noticing a huge difference when I do yoga now. I felt like a million bucks after that class and I was ready for a long hike along Murray's Beach just outside St. Peters.

I hiked Murray's beach before but on this day, I hiked in the opposite direction.  My friend and I parked near the beach and had our lunch before setting out along the rocky shoreline.  I didn't walk far before almost killing myself.  I wasn't paying attention to my footing on the slippery rocks and nearly fell flat on my back.  Had I not caught myself, I would have hit my head and possibly broken a bone.  I did get wet but fortunately it wasn't that cold out.

We walked for a while along the rocky beach before switching over to a path through the woods.  This made for easier walking but the flies, even at that time of year, were really bad!  I ended up with about a dozen bites on my exposed legs and arms. We reached a point where we decided to turn around as it was getting late.  But first, we sat on the beach and drank some tea and ate some snacks while watching the little ripples on the big lake gently come ashore.

We didn't go through the woods on the way back so we ended up having to maneuver around some fallen trees on the thin strip of beach that we missed when we took the shortcut through the woods.

We arrived back at the cars in the late afternoon just in time to see two deer saunter into the field for a snack.  It was almost dark when I started the long drive home but I was ok with that.  I love a night time drive along route 4, along the Bras d'Or Lakes on that windy country road through some of Cape Breton's most beautiful little communities.

Biking is another one of my summer pastimes and this summer I added a new feature to my car; a bike rack.  Normally, I just drive my bike around my neighborhood or around the nearby town but now I can go anywhere with it.  I didn't get a chance to go biking much during August because it was so hot and all I wanted to do was go to the beach.  However, once Mid-September rolled around, I wanted to be on that bike all the time.  The municipality recently completed a multi-use trail that runs from the airport in Gardiner Mines all the way to the Mayflower Mall area in Sydney - about 25 kilometres return.  I drove to the airport one fine day and parked my car near the trailhead and headed out.  It was chilly but nice and I did the entire trail and back in a little over two hours. The trail is very well-maintained, wide and safe compared to some of the roads I usually drive on.  It was nice to drive somewhere different and not have to deal with traffic.   

By this time, it was starting to get darker earlier so I switched my evening walks at Dominion Beach to late-afternoon walks.  That will continue now until spring.  October and November are what I call hiking and biking season.  However, a few road trips are usually reserved for this time of year, particularly my yearly trip around the Cabot Trail to see the spectacular fall colors.

I embarked on a trip around the trail on a fine day that was predicted to remain fairly sunny and warm until at least the evening.  I started the trail at the Red Barn just past Baddeck with the intention of going through Margaree and onto Cheticamp and finally Ingonish.  I took my time going through the Margaree Valley as this is where the fall colours are usually at their best.

I stopped at Lake O'Law first and if the success of the day was to be based on the events that transpired in that provincial park, it would not have been a good day.  I got out of the car and made my way to the women's bathroom (which was an old wooden outhouse).  Everything seemed fine.  Someone else had just exited the same bathroom a few minutes earlier and when I opened and closed the door, everything seemed fine. Until.....I tried to reopen it to exit and the lock jammed from the outside.  Because I am severely claustrophobic, I instantly panicked at the thought of being enclosed in a small space especially a smelly, remote outhouse.  First I screamed "help" over and over.  When no help came, I started punching the door and frantically tried to loosen the lock.  When that didn't work, I started kicking the door in an attempt to literally knock it down.  I think I would have succeeded if not for a distant voice yelling "hang on, I'm coming".  I froze and listened for footsteps until, finally, the door opened.  A woman stood on the other side with a worried look on her face which surely had to be a mask for the laughter she must have been stifling.

Had I been locked in an outhouse all day, I would not have been able to continue on with the wonderful day I ended up having.  Besides enjoying the spectacular fall colours of the Margaree Valley, I went on to visit many of my favourite places along the Cabot Trail and beyond.  I made a little detour off the trail to visit a few of my favourite beaches; Inverness Beach, Chimney Corner and Whale Cove.

I grabbed a coffee in Cheticamp and drove along the Cabot Trail until I reached The Lone Shieling. I love this trail.  It's only short but it's one of my favorite nature walks; tall trees, peace and quiet with a stream running through. On this day, I was the only person there and it was wonderful.  I took my time walking along that trail, taking in every sight and sound.

I drove almost straight to Ingonish after my little hike at the Lone Shieling.  I wanted to make it there before dark and before the Bean Barn, my favourite cafe, closed.  Eating a huge slice of their carrot cake and taking a small coffee with me to Ingonish Beach has become a little tradition for me over the years. After I made some quick stops at some of my favourite places along the way (Black Brook, Warren Lake, Broad Cove), I just barely made it to the Bean Barn.  The place was empty so I sat in my regular spot and ate my cake before hearing to my spot at Ingonish Beach.  I sat in the cool sand near the surf and didn't get up again until the sun disappeared into the horizon.  I took my time going home.  Knowing this was likely my last road trip of the season, I wanted to stretch it out as much as possible even if it meant driving at night in moose country and getting home close to midnight.   

Summer so far....

About a month ago to the day, I was wondering if we would even get a summer here on the East Coast of Canada.  Into the first week of July, it was still cold, foggy, rainy and even snowy in higher elevations.  Now?  Well, let's just say things changed completely around and we have been in the midst of a major heat wave.  In fact, I just heard today, that we basically shattered all weather-related records for highest temperature and longest stretch of extreme temperatures.  The temperature today was 30 degrees Celsius and 39 with the humidity - that is almost unheard of in this part of the world and it's been like this for weeks now!  I'm quite sensitive to the sun (not so much the heat and humidity as long as I'm out of the sun) so I've been staying indoors a lot more than I usually would.  My walking/biking workouts take place much earlier in the morning before the heat peaks and when I am not hunkered down in my cool-ish apartment, I am at Dominion Beach swimming and sipping on a cold beer in the shade.

All in all, summer has been going great for me.  While everyone else complains about the heat, I make the most of it.  I recently acquired a new toy - a canon DSLR camera with interchangeable lenses and all that fun stuff so I've been busy trying to master it.  I did a lot of the usual summer things too.  I ventured out to Rendell's Farm in Bras d'Or and picked some strawberries so I could skimp on groceries, save some money and eat nothing but strawberry shortcakes for two weeks.  I also spent a week in Newfoundland and the Canada Day long weekend in Margaree with fireworks, beaches and hiking.  Of course, Canada Day itself was spent at the Fortress of Louisbourg as it has been for the last 6 or 7 years.  I've been on a few hikes in the Framboise area too. Last weekend, I spent the day roaming the Cheticamp/Margaree/Inverness area beach-hopping, swimming and getting to know my camera better. Ive also been following a family of endangered piping plovers at the beach near my house.  They are flying now but I first spotted them only hours after they hatched. 

As for the final leg of summer?  Hoping to get some kayaking and camping in before the cold weather returns.  Hiking can wait until the fall and swimming will take its place until than.  I hope you all are enjoying summer (or winter depending on where in the world you are I suppose!) and please stay tuned for more posts about my adventures around Cape Breton and hopefully Alberta if I get to go there as planned later in the fall.

A Hike Through the Mabou Highlands and an Evening Spent on A Lovely Beach I Never Knew Existed

I first heard about the Cape Mabou Highlands Hiking Trails about 2 years ago and finally got the chance to try out these trails for the first time only recently.  Now I know more about Mabou than I thought imaginable.  For one, I know it's a lot bigger than I originally thought and I know it's more than just the home of the famous Rankins and the ever-popular Red Shoe Pub.  Mabou is mountains, beaches, wildlife, trails and scenery I didn't even know we had on Cape Breton Island...you know, that island I thought I knew like the back of my hands?  Turns out, there is still so much to see on this island and I've made a promise to myself to make this the summer that I see many of those things I haven't seen yet.

I left early that morning to give myself enough time to find the trailhead and to also check out another trail in Margaree along the way.  The other trail was said to be located in Margaree Centre and although I found Margaree Centre after more than a few wrong turns (Margaree is a confusing place), and foundwhat I thought was the area of the trail but I was unable to find an actual trail.  I didn't want to spend too much time looking for it and the place was like a ghost town so I backtracked back to the main road and continued toward Mabou...and took a wrong turn.  When I realized my mistake, I was already a half hour off course.  No big deal.  I just turned around and headed back to the turn off where I made the mistake and found the right road.

I made a quick stop near the Glenora Distillery to check my GPS and figure out where to go to find the first trailhead before turning onto the gravel Glenora Falls Road.  I followed it until I reached a wind turbine. All the directions I read online mentioned this wind turbine and basically stated that once you reach it, the trailhead is nearby and easy to find.  Well, I didn't find it.  The road started to get bad and I didn't feel comfortable going further nor parking my car in such a remote place.  I opted instead to eat my lunch under the giant wind turbine and search for the other trailhead.

Back on the main highway, I drove for about ten minutes before turning onto another road and driving through an area of the island I didn't know existed.  All this time, I thought Mabou was just one road with a strip of shops and houses along one stretch and here before me was a huge area with fishing wharves, beautiful summer homes, beaches and grassy hills.  I enjoyed the scenery along that road until it seemingly came to an end.  By seemingly I mean the wide two-lane road suddenly turned into a one-lane road that was riddled with potholes.  I turned around thinking I had missed the turn off.  Some people were outside doing yard work so I asked them if they knew where I needed to go.  Turns out I was going the right way all along. I turned around and went back to where the road seemingly ended as that was where the trailhead was supposed to be.  Sure enough, I ventured down that one lane road and rounded a bend to be met face-to-face with the signs indicating where the Cape Mabou Highlands Trail started.  Or I guess I should say trails because there were several and I hate when I come upon a trailhead that gives me more than one option where to go because that means I have to make a decision which way to go!

I decided to take the path that led to a scenic look-off.  Can't go wrong with scenic look-offs.  It was also shorter than the other one that would have taken me into the late evening and was best saved for another day.  I was only out of the car a few seconds and still applying sunscreen when the flies started coming around me.  Dozens, than hundreds and than so many that I could barely stand up straight from swatting at them.  I applied some bug spray with that sunscreen.  Not a pleasant combination but necessary to keep my sanity.

I set out on a fairly-well-groomed trail and wasn't a minute into the hike when something moving in the bush startled me.  A frightened partridge can make a lot of noise that can be easily mistaken for something bigger.  There were some indications that something bigger had been lurking on the trail fairly recently as there were footprints and some scuffed dirt and holes in various places.  Most likely a deer.  Possibly a moose.  I was hoping not a bear.  The only other living things I met on that trail were some fellow humans coming from the look-off area just as I was walking in.  A mailbox-looking-thingy caught my attention as I was pushed to the side to allow the other passed.  My curiosity revealed a guestbook.  I signed my name and browsed the others to see where they were from.  It still always surprises me when I see signatures of people from Europe, Asia and everywhere in between.

I wasn't expecting the views on this trail to rival those in the Highlands of Cape Breton but that is exactly what they did.  I was shocked and than surprised to learn that these amazing views existed without me knowing all along.  Lobster boats hauling traps, colorful homes on the peninsula below, a sandy beach and the blue ocean all laid out before me in what looked like a giant painting.  How on earth did this remain off my radar for so long?  Perhaps I've been focusing my undivided attention on one part of the island for too long (I usually end up in the Northern region of the island in the Highlands) and its time to start exploring other areas that I'm less familiar with.
From that point on, the trail got steeper and more difficult.  I came to a junction that gave me two options; 1) a shorter trail that would take me back around to my car and 2) a longer one that went who knows where.  It was too late in the day to even consider that longer trail so the shorter won.  I planned to return to do the rest of the trails anyway.

Old foundations started to become visible along the path so I stopped to investigate.  Not much was left of whatever it had once been and there looked to be some sort of stone wall along part of the trail. It seemed like such a remote place for there to once be a homestead but that may very well be what it once was.

I was descending a steep incline when the unthinkable happened.  Well, the unthinkable for a hiker who didn't pack an extra pair of shoes in her backpack. The souls of my shoes came off.  I felt it in the left foot first.  A feeling of something getting trapped under my foot and swinging back.  I tied it back on with some orange ribbon I had in my pack and continued on.  I felt the same sensations in the right foot next.  That one stayed mostly intact for the rest of the hike.  My band-aid job on the other shoe lasted until I was able to see my car through the trees.  My local shoe-repair guy said he could bring them back to almost new for 25 bucks.  Beats having to brave the mall in the summer (I hate the mall all the time but even more in the summer) to buy a new pair.

I always thought Mabou was kind of a small, drive-through-too-fast-and-you-might-miss-it kind of place on the side of a rural highway in the middle of nowhere.  That was before I heard about the Mabou Highlands Trails and the beautiful beach that is located in the community.  I found the directions to this beach online and found it quite easily.  West Mabou Beach Provincial Park is another place on this small island full of secrets that I, the non-stop adventurer and off-the-beaten-path-location-seeker.  And not only does the park feature a long, sandy beach, it also features quite a few hiking trails which I plan to check out in more detail the next time I am in the area.  It was getting late in the evening and I was getting hungry so I took a walk down a part of the beach and sat with my feet in the sand before heading back to the main part of town to try and find something to eat.

My heart was set on having dinner at the Red Shoe Pub.  That's the famous pub in Mabou owned by the famous Rankin sisters who happen to be from Mabou.  I found a parking spot in the lot across the street and checked out the menu online before entering.  I didn't need to see anything past the item called "Pair of Shoes" which sounded delicious.  I crossed the street and opened the door....to see that there were no tables left and about a dozen people waiting to be seated.  Disappointed, I walked back to my car and headed to the nearby town of Inverness to see what I could find to eat there.

It still being June (which is considered low season here) and also being late in the evening meant not many restaurants were open.  I thought I would have to settle on pizza to-go-and-eat-it-by-the-beach (not that there is anything wrong with takeout at the beach) when I noticed an "open" sign on a little diner with a pizza shop attached.   I ordered a veggie wrap, ate it up as quickly as I could and headed to lovely Inverness Beach for an evening stroll along the beautiful boardwalk just as the sun was starting to set over the ocean.  The end of another epic day on The Cape.

Sunset at Inverness Beach...The most beautiful sunsets on the island!