Exploring Judique and Surrounding Areas

Every year, I try to participate in as many Celtic Colours events as possible.  It's a given that I attend the finale show at Centre 200 every year but I also like to immerse in other activities hosted by the festival.  I don't buy advanced tickets to any other concerts because of my work schedule but other events, like markets and guided hikes, are easy last-minute things I can participate in.  

I love the guided hikes that are hosted by Celtic Colours because I can explore that part of the island and learn about some history and culture of the area too.  In the past, I did the Whitney Pier Historical Walk and guided hikes in Boisdale, Lennox Passage, Cheticamp and New Waterford. This year, I did a guided hike in Judique.

I've been to Judique before but usually it's just to pass through to get somewhere else. It's so far away from where I live that I just rarely make it to that area of Cape Breton.  Like Isle Madame, another area that I haven't explored enough, I've made a promise to myself to explore those regions in the south of Cape Breton more in the coming years.  

I left home at 5:30 AM the morning of the hike which was due to start at 9:30.  I wanted to give myself enough time to get through construction zones and stop somewhere to enjoy a nice breakfast.  

I grabbed something to eat in St. Peters and dined at the canal as a bald eagle soared above and the sun started to appear from behind the clouds. 

The final leg of the first leg of my journey didn't take long.  I made it just in time for the Musical Walk at the Celtic Music Interpretation Center in Judique.  A crowd had already gathered and after registering at the front desk, we split into two groups and made our way outside and onto a nearby trail that connected to the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail.  

As we walked through a section of forest amidst the beautiful fall foliage, our guide shared some of the local history with us.  As small as Cape Breton Island is, I'm always learning new things about the fascinating history and culture!  

We eventually arrived at a beautiful beach that I didn't know existed.  Yes, another beach I didn't know existed on my little island and, according to our guide, it was a safe beach to swim with some of the warmest waters in Atlantic Canada! As we stood admiring the view, a pair of musicians appeared and played a few fiddle tunes for us. 

Back on the trail, we took a different route and ended up in a very old cemetery with headstones so old that you couldn't even make out the inscriptions on them.  Many of them were cracked and crumbling from age and the adverse weather conditions of the area. 

Back at the interpretation center, I stayed a bit longer to explore the exhibits. Perhaps in my younger years I just didn't have the appreciation for such places or perhaps it was simply because I didn't even know the place existed.  Either way, I felt a bit embarrassed that I had never visited the Celtic Music Interpretation Center before.  After all, the exhibits related to my cultural and historical background being part Scottish!  I was amazed at the amount of items that were on display, some interactive ones too!  I was also amazed at the amount of written information there was.  Unfortunately, I wasn't able to read and explore everything that day as I had other plans further up the line, but I did make a promise to myself to return and explore it some more. 

After I left Judique, I planned to stop in Mabou and rent an E-bike for several hours so I could explore some of the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail.  Unfortunately, mother nature had other plans.  The weather was decent as I drove along the Ceilidh Trail.  I stopped at Sandeannie's Bakery in Port Hood for an afternoon snack to keep me going.  This was yet another place I didn't know existed and although I only got a delicious mint Nanaimo Bar, the menu looked good enough to plan on returning in the future. 

As I drove off towards Mabou, the sky got darker and before I reached the edge of town, the rain started. My plans to rent an E-bike shattered. I kept driving to Inverness and, even though it was raining heavier by the time I arrived, I drove down to the beach just to get a look at it one last time before winter set in. 

The rain continued as I drove through Cheticamp and into the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. At the top of the first Mountain, it started to snow.  Fortunately, it turned back to rain once I was at a lower elevation. Approaching Cape North, the rain started to let up and the sun even started to appear.  This is when I came up with a last-minute plan to take an unplanned detour. 

Instead of going toward Dingwall, I turned toward Bay St. Lawrence.  My intent was to head straight to Meat Cove before the rain reached the area.  It had been a few years since I took that old backcountry road to the tip of Cape Breton Island.  I drive a small car and that road is often too rough for me to get through.  I crossed my fingers and hoped the road was in good shape that day.  In my opinion, Meat Cove has the most beautiful scenery on the whole island and I wanted to see it with the fall colours in full bloom. 

I drove along the scenic road through Cape North and made the turn to Meat Cove.  The road started out good and continued to be good and was good all the way to the end!  A few potholes and washboard sections but nothing my car couldn't manage. The sky cleared and the sun shone down on the changing leaves making for a spectacular drive through the valleys leading to the ocean. 

By the time I made it back to the main road, the sky had darkened again and soon, the rain returned.  I took a quick drive down to Bay St. Lawrence and headed back to the Cabot Trail and onto Ingonish. By the time I left Ingonish, it was dark and rainy for the long drive home. But, despite the weather, it was a fabulous day.  Over 600 kilometers almost completely around Cape Breton Island!   

 

 

A Day in Nature in Framboise Followed by outings to Baddeck and St. Peters...Vacation is off to a Great Start!

I wasn't going to take a fall vacation.  Well actually, I was but I wasn't planning on spending it at home in Cape Breton.  I originally planned to go on a trip to Iceland but decided that It's best to wait until spring to do some international traveling with everything that is currently going on in the world. And besides, but better place is there to spend this time of year.  I started vacation on October 9th which coincided with the start of the International Celtic Colours Festival and the spectacular fall foliage my island is known for. This is my favourite time of year in Cape Breton - tied with summer, of course.  Why would I want to leave now when I can go elsewhere anytime!

My vacation started with a father-daughter trip to Frambosie to do some hiking and exploring on the remote beaches of the south coast of the island.  And it wasn't a bad day.  Just a few short rain showers that ended with a beautiful double rainbow!  

After hiking along some beaches and forest trails, we headed to St. Peters to have lunch at the canal before returning to the Framboise area to drive the backroads searching for deer and other critters.  One very large and, by the looks of it, very well-fed coyote, was all we saw.  The only deer we saw were the three that were grazing on the side of the highway that morning outside of Sydney. 

The next day, I woke up early and headed to Sydney to pick up my friend for a day of shopping and eating in Baddeck.  The main shop I wanted to visit was Isle of Fog Thrift and I wasn't disappointed.  I only found a pair of jeans (7 bucks and in great shape!) but there was tons of nice items that were just not the right size for me. And the items are quality unlike other thrift stores that just put out whatever they receive without picking out the quality items. Did I mention the jeans were just the right length for me too?  I'm 5'1 and can never find jeans that don't need to be hemmed or rolled up so finding a pair that actually fit was like finding treasure!  The store also had a wide variety of books, music, ornaments and other household goods.  

We went in all the stores on the main street but I didn't buy anything else.  Not that there wasn't anything I would love to buy but I got lots of ideas for when I have my own house sometime in hopefully not the not-too-distant future!  At the moment, I just don't have the extra space for any more household items that I don't absolutely need.

In between browsing the lovely shops, we stopped at the Highwheeler Cafe to grab a snack to hold us over until supper.  I don't know what I had but it was some sort of chocolate pumpkin spice square or brownie.  I do know that it was absolutely delicious!  After a nice conversation with a couple visiting from Ontario to take in some of the Celtic Colours events, we headed back out onto the main street to continue browsing.   

By 5 O'clock, we were quite hungry and ready to sit down and have a meal.  One of the restaurants we had shortlisted was closed and the other one looked pretty crowded.  The Freight Shed had been recommended to me in the past but I always assumed it was well out of my budget or only served seafood dishes.  We walked down to the wharf and had a look and it looked cozy and uncrowded.  I googled the menu just to see for myself what the prices were like and, lo and behold, they didn't look so bad.  The menu didn't look so bad either.  We went for it. 

Long story short, I ordered the gourmet grilled cheese and Roasted Butternut Squash Soup and my friend ordered spaghetti and meat balls and both were expertly-prepared and delicious.  The portions were quite generous, too! 

To keep up with the theme of filling every moment of my precious vacation with road trips and experiences, the next day I drove to St. Peters to meet a friend for coffee, do some early Christmas shopping at Glad Tidings and check out the Salty Waters Wellness Market. I took the scenic route along the Bras d'Or Lakes and arrived in town just in time to do a little bit of shopping and eat my lunch before meeting my friend at the canal. 

We chatted over coffee and sweets and wondered who on earth could be onboard the gigantic yacht that was parked in the canal.  When we parted ways, I went for a walk around Battery Provincial Park and the campground.  It was typical fall day and a perfect one for a scenic walk with the leaves changing. 

It's Been a While, Route 19

I love every part of Cape Breton Island but there are certain parts of the island I love more than others. For example, I love the west coast of the island and I spend a lot of time in Margaree, Inverness and Cheticamp.  However, I rarely head further south to Mabou, Port Hood or Judique because it is such a long drive and these days, with work and what not, I just don't have the free time that I used to have to travel that far.  The last time I did the whole Route 19, which starts in Port Hastings and ends near Margaree, was about ten years ago.  And that's a shame because I just love that drive!

Just recently, I had the chance to drive that route again.  It was a last minute decision.  I had a day off and all the time in the world to go wherever I wanted.  I was going to go around the Cabot Trail but since I am doing that later in the fall, I decided I would go somewhere I haven't been in a long time.  

I left early that morning and drove along Route 4 to St. Peters and instead of going across via Dundee and coming out on the Trans Canada Highway on the other side, I just kept going through St. Peter's and ended up in Port Hawkesbury.  Instead of backtracking and taking the same route back, I kept going through Port Hastings and onto the Ceilidh Trail, or Route 19 as it's commonly known. 

It was a beautiful day and the sun was shining bright in the sky when I pulled into Christy's Lookoff in Craigmore.  Shining so bright that the sea sparkled like blue diamonds. I stopped there for a while and ate my lunch while watching a distant pod of pilot whales passing by. 

In Judique I stopped at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre.  I knew in a little over a week's time, I would be stopping here to attend an event hosted by the Celtic Colours International Music Festival so it was nice to know where I would need to go beforehand. 

In Port Hood, I explored the beaches.  I knew there were two beaches in the town but I discovered two others that I didn't know about.  The water there is known to be the warmest on the island but on that day, I dipped my toes in and pulled them right back out because the water was abnormally cold. 

I was going to stop at the thrift store in Mabou after seeing signs advertising it along the road but it was closed when I passed through the little village so I continued onto Inverness.

I didn't get to spend as much time as I would have liked in Inverness this summer.  I didn't get to see one of those sunsets I love so much!  But I love being on that beach any time of year.  It truly is my happy place any time of year, any time of day!  I stopped to admire it's beauty, and walked along the sand a bit and along the boardwalk to that gazebo with the views of the whole beach and Margaree Island.  

I left Inverness later in the day and headed home through the Margaree Valley and onto the 105 Trans Canada Highway.  Hard to believe I will get to do that trip all over again later in the week! 

Late Summer Fishing Trip

It seems summer just left Cape Breton without any notice.  One day it was hot and sunny and every day since it has been chilly and damp.  I'm hoping for another hot summery spell later in September but for now, I've traded my ocean swimming days for fishing, biking and hiking days and the weather is just right for these activities. On Friday, the forecast called for warm temperatures and mostly sun so Dad and I headed to Framboise to do some fishing and hiking.  

We took our time getting there, stopping for coffee and breakfast along the way and stopping at all the brooks between Forchu and Grand River to try our luck at catching some trout.  It took most of the day, but we got five good-size ones and a few smaller ones that we released.  

When we reached the road to Ferguson Beach, we took our chances on the gravel road that, fortunately, wasn't washed out after the big rain storm we had last weekend. The beach was covered in tonnes of seaweed but we managed to get a walk in by walking on the grass above the beach until we reached an area that wasn't covered in seaweed.  We walked all the way to the brook but it was too full of water to cross so we turned back and headed back to the main road where we fished some more brooks. 

Eventually, we reached grand river and kept driving until we reached route 4 and headed to St. Peters. We stopped at Battery Park to have lunch by the canal and drove up the main street of the little village to see if anything was going on for Pirate Days. There wasn't much going on at that time so we grabbed some coffees to go and headed back to Grand River. This time we took the long way through L'Ardoise and onto Point Michaud Beach, where we stopped and took a little walk.  It was a long drive along the old gravel road back to Grand River but we finally made it back with plenty of daylight to spare.

We fished the brooks some more until we reached our limit and went for a drive through Sterling looking for deer and other wildlife that come out at that time of day.  We didn't see anything but it was a nice drive through the country before heading home.  

A Mad Dash for Ingonish

It's been a rainy, muggy summer here in Cape Breton.  I mean, yes, we had some sun but mostly on days when I was inside an air-conditioned building at work wishing I was at the beach or camping under the stars.  Even when nice weather happened on the weekend, it was rarely two days in a row which made it hard to enjoy a dry, sunny camping trip that didn't involve either setting up in the rain or waking up in the morning to rain. 

So, last weekend, I came up with an idea.  Thursday evening was forecast to be very nice, Friday was forecast to be nice, Saturday's forecast was rain.  I originally planned to go camping in Ingonish on Friday into Saturday but I hate camping in heavy rain and having to take a wet tent and gear home. I'm off work on Fridays.  So I decided I would leave work at 4:30 on Thursday and drive the 2.5 hours to my favorite campsite and leave later on Friday when it was still dry.  And it turned out perfectly!

I didn't even stop at home on the way, just pulled out of the parking lot at work and drove straight to Ingonish, only stopping for gas.  My plan was to get there in time to set up and be all ready for the night before the sun went down.  Traffic was light and there was no lineup at the Englishtown Ferry. I made it just in time!

With the tent set up, my bed made and everything in it's place, I took a drive down to the point which is about five minutes away from my campsite at Broad Cove, and watched the moon come up while enjoying my coffee.  

Back at my site, I got out my beach chair and set up in a dark corner of the lot and cracked open a beer and waited for the lunar eclipse that would take place later that evening.  When I waited long enough and nothing happened, I went for a walk around the campground.  When I returned, a little piece of the moon was missing.  I got comfortable in my chair and watched the night sky for hours. And the night couldn't have been any more perfect.  It was very warm with no wind, no flies and no clouds. 

When the moon first came up, it was no bright, it was almost like daytime. It was beautiful shining through those tall trees surrounding me! As more of the moon slowly disappeared, it got darker and darker until I could barely see in front of me.  But that night sky!  I don't think I'd ever seen so many stars.  It was close to 1AM by the time the moon was completely covered and the campground had grown so quiet, I could only hear the distant waves washing ashore on Broad Cove Beach. Most everyone had gone to bed leaving me to admire that spectacular night sky alone and in peace and quiet.  

It was quite late when I finally retreated to my tent and the comfy bed I made.  I slept like a log.  I don't remember waking up once during the night and the temperature was prefect for sleeping outdoors.  It's strange because I usually do sleep so much better in a tent than I do in my own bed.  There's just something about the light rustle of leaves, the distant sound of waves rolling ashore and coyotes howling not too far away that lulls me into a peaceful slumber.  Likewise, there's just something about waking up to the sound of birds chirping in the trees!

I was up before 7 the next morning and quickly on my way to North Bay Beach for my morning walk while the dew on the tent dried. After I tore it all down, I headed home.  It was a quick trip but a good one!

 

 

 

 

 

 

First Cabot Trail Road Trip of the Season

I was late going around the Cabot Trail this year but, like they say, better late than never!  It's been hard planning anything this summer because of work commitments and a forecast with more rain than usual.  One weekend in late August predicted sun and warm temperatures so I planned a day trip.

I left early so I could stop in Jersey Cove and have a visit with my friend who has her trailer there during the summers.  I didn't plan on staying there long but the sparkling waters of the nearby beach called my name and soon after arriving, I had already changed into my swimsuit and was enjoying a refreshing dip in the Atlantic Ocean under a clear blue sky. 

I never swam at that beach before so it was nice to discover a new place to take a dip.  I knew the beach was there but always overlooked it because it was rocky.  And while yes, it is rocky, you only have to walk a few feet before reaching a soft, sandy bottom.  The water was so warm and clear, I could have stayed there all day, but I had to get going if I was going to make it around the trail before dark.

I left Jersey Cove in the early afternoon and headed for Ingonish where I got a coffee and something sweet at a little cafe and enjoyed it while I walked along North Bay Beach. 

I didn't make too many stops on the way to Cheticamp.  I just enjoyed the drive and the spectacular scenery that I never get sick of. In Cheticamp, I stopped for something to eat and grabbed a coffee to enjoy while I sat by the ocean on Cheticamp Island.  I headed home not long after as it was getting dark.  I used to not mind driving at all hours of the night but, as I get older, I don't like taking a chance driving on those dark, lonely country roads after dark.  Or maybe it's just that the world doesn't seem as safe as it was when I first started driving 30 years ago.  

Annual Father-Daughter Camping Trip

And yet another weekend I look forward to every summer is the camping trip I do with my Dad. Our first father-daughter camping trip was over a decade ago when I moved back home after being away for many years and we've gone every year since except during Covid lockdowns.  

We used to go to a secluded spot at the end of a very long gravel road leading to a beautiful beach.  Unfortunately, we have since learned that this spot is on private property and the owner has asked us not to camp there anymore. The past few summer's, we've been camping at Battery Provincial Park in St. Peters.  It's not secluded and certainly not wild like our old spot but the sites at this campground are so large and set back from the road that it feels sort of remote. 

We took the long way to St. Peter's through Marion Bridge, Gabarus, Forchu and Framboise stopping along the way at various points of interest.  We stopped at the beach in Gabarus and walked along the shore searching for treasure with dad's new metal detector.  We stopped in Forchu to take some pictures of the boats going out.  We stopped at our old camping spot and had a picnic.  By the time we made it to St. Peter's, we could check-in and set up camp for the night before the forecasted rain moved in.  There was some thunder in the distance and scattered rain showers throughout the day but nothing compared to the downpour that happened only minutes after I retreated to my tent for the night!

After we set up camp, we visited a couple of the museums around town and grabbed some supper at a restaurant in nearby Louisdale. When it got dark enough, we lit a fire and watched the night sky.  

In the morning, we left everything up to dry and headed to St. Peter's for breakfast.  By the time we returned, everything was ready to pack up.  Dad headed home to same way we came and I headed to Point Michaud Beach to check out the Surf Competition that is held there every year. It's a beautiful beach with clear waters and large rolling waves but I was only able to tolerate the water for about five minutes before I got pins and needles from the cold.  It was not nearly as warm as the water at many of the other beaches around Cape Breton! 

Festiville Baddeck - Another Summer Tradition

When I first moved back to Cape Breton after being away for many years, I immediately started exploring the little island I had taken for granted in my younger years.  I soon learned that Baddeck was a place I really liked spending time in and one such evening wandering around this pretty little village, I found myself in the middle of a lively festival.  I never heard about it before.  It might have been the first time it was held for all I know.  But from that day forward, I made it a point to always be in Baddeck during Festiville and it's one of my favorite events of every summer. 

For some years now, I've recruited a buddy to come along with me to the festivities.  This year was a little different because she had other things going on and couldn't make it so I attended on my own.  It's a little strange wandering such a large crowd by myself but you can easily blend in with people and there's always a familiar face in the crowd.  

I got some home fries and found myself a nice place to sit where I could watch everything going on and hear the live music.  Of course, it being a vacation day and special event, I decided to treat myself to some ice cream (I normally wouldn't have home fries AND ice cream in the same night!)  

When the evening came to a close and everyone started to leave the downtown area, I walked down to the docks and over to the boardwalk where I sat for a long time just watching the boats coming and going and watching some large fish eat smaller fish in the glow of the light shining on the Bras d'Or Lakes. 

I was fortunate enough to be able to find a decent and affordable hotel room near downtown Baddeck for this night.  I walked back from the boardwalk, taking the road along the shore.  It was dark and quiet and there wasn't not a lot of people around by that time, but I felt completely safe and relaxed.  I love living so close to a place like that where I can escape and feel safe and not have a care in the world! 

  

August Long Weekend in the Country

One thing I look forward to every summer for the last 13 years is the August long-weekend trip I take with my friend to Margaree. 

We left on a Friday and, although the weather forecast didn't look all that promising, we made the best of our time there and the best of the moments when the sun was shining!  

During the rainy times, we went for drives along the coast, grabbed a bite to eat in the local cafe and browsed the thrift stores.  When the sun was shining, we went to Inverness Beach.  While I swam to my hearts content in the warm, clear water, my friend hunted for beach glass.  I also walked the entire length of the boardwalk from the main road all the way to end below the golf course. When we left Inverness, we stopped at Chimney Corner along the way and went for a swim and a walk along the beach there, too.  

One evening was nice enough to have a fire on nearby Belle Cote beach.  I'd never been to this beach before so it was one more place on Cape Breton that I got to discover. And to make that night even more magical, there was a beautiful full moon!

One of the best things about that weekend every year is sleeping in a place that is so quiet and dark at night.  The old country house we stayed in must be over 100 years old and it felt like a step back in time to when things were simpler.  The worse part about that weekend every year? Going home!

 

Fireworks, Beach Days, Kayaking and a Day Trip

It was a weird summer.  The weather had a lot to do with it.  Rain was forecast more often than not so it was hard to plan camping outings out of town like I usually do.  That being said, I made the most of it closer to home.  

I have a beautiful, sandy beach only a ten-minute drive away from my house so I spent a lot of time there walking, beachcombing and swimming in water that seems to be much warmer than usual.  

 I don't usually go out of my way for fireworks but when I saw that the fireworks for Glace Bay's Harbourfest would be held in a location visible from Big Glace Bay Beach, I thought that would be a nice outing with a friend I don't get to see as often I'd like.  I didn't know what kind of view we'd have all the way out there but turns out, we had the best seat in the house.  We found a nice spot in the sand and enjoyed the display over the water.  We also had the added bonus of seeing all the boats that were a part of the Parade of Sail that happened right before the fireworks parked just offshore.  

The last few summers, I enjoyed going to Mira Provincial Park to do some paddleboarding through CBRM recreation but this year all the spots were booked up.  Luckily, I was able to do some kayaking with a friend who had an extra kayak.  Not the same thing but just as fun! 

I did manage to get one day trip in to Inverness in early summer.  It was a perfect day, too!  The wind, temperature and surf were just right to enjoy a swim at one of my favourite places in the whole world.  The only thing missing was an Inverness sunset.  I usually stay until the sun goes down but not that day.  

 

Summer is in Full Swing

For a while there, it looked like we wouldn't get summer at all here in Cape Breton.  June was cold and wet and July started out the same way.  The weather had me fearful that my yearly vacation would be rained out but, as I write this, I am in the middle of my vacation and so far I've been at the beach every day...except today because it's raining. Tomorrow looks like rain too but Friday and Saturday look like great days to plan a camping trip or at least a day trip to the Highlands or west coast of the island. 

Summer is really just started and so far, I visited the Fortress of Louisbourg, swam in the ocean a number of times, walked the beach almost every evening, rode my bike to the lighthouse almost every morning when I'm not working, watched several fireworks displays and attended a car show with my little nephew.  There's still a week left in July and August and September are yet to come!  Baddeck Festiville, camping in Ingonish, Inverness Beach days and two long weekends in Margaree are planned and who knows what other adventures I'll find myself on.  All I know if I plan to enjoy every minute! 

A Chilly Late Spring Day Along the Coast of Framboise

They keep saying we are in for a hot summer here in Eastern Canada but we haven't seen much of that in Cape Breton yet! It's early June and I'm still wearing a winter jacket and mittens with rechargeable heaters in them. I even wore a toque on my walk the other day! But being cooped up in the house and at work all winter means I am itching to get outdoors and do some hiking so that's exactly what I did this past Friday. 

The forecast called for warm temperatures and sun but that's not exactly how the day went. Sure, it was quite warm when Dad and I left New Waterford and headed for Framboise but by the time I arrived and got out of the car, I had to trade my T-shirt for a heavy sweater, jacket and gloves. It was sunny, but that north wind off the water was relentless. 

The main goal of the trip was for Dad to do some fishing and for me to meet up with an old friend for a hike along the shore. We started the morning fishing the brooks along the stretch of highway between Forchu and Grand River. It was warmer up there away from the ocean but the black flies were quite hungry. Only one fish was caught and released. The last spot we tried, no fish were caught but we spotted something interesting in the water below. There were hundreds of Gaspereau swimming up river! I'd never seen this before and, I must say, it was worth getting eaten alive by flies to watch this amazing natural phenomenon. A few hours later when I returned to show my friend what we had seen earlier, they were all gone.  I guess it was just pure luck that they happened to be going upstream at that very moment in time. 

After we finished fishing, we drove down the long dirt road to Ferguson Beach to do some hiking along the ocean.  The beach was full of seaweed and it was high tide so we walked for quite a distance along the old, grassy trail above the beach.  When we reached the river, we had to turn back because the water was too high to cross.  In warmer weather, I would have just taken off my shoes and waded across but it was way too cold that day.  

When we reached the car, it was still too early to call it day and the sun was coming up and warming the air a bit.  So we just kept walking down the beach in the other direction until we reached another river crossing that was too high to cross.  

By this time, the wind had shifted and it was so warm, we took off our sweaters and jackets and lay down in the soft sand for a rest.  It didn't take long for the wind to shift back to the north and we were reaching for our sweaters and jackets again.  

We took a different route back to the car through a grassy meadow and onto an old wood road.  There were signs that wildlife had passed through, but all we saw were the footprints of coyotes and deer who had passed through not long before us.  

At the car, we sat and watched the ocean with some hot tea and muffins and headed back to the main road.  Of course, no day in Framboise is complete without a scenic drive to the little village of St. Peter's for some coffee, something to eat at Jigg's Takeout and a relaxing drive along the Bras d'Or Lakes. 

Sunburnt and tired, I must say, despite the flies and cold wind, it was a good day.  The more I think about it, world travel is not as much of a priority for me at the moment.  I'm sure I'll want to go back to exploring far-away places in the future but, for now, my little island has everything I need.  

 

 

Return to the Hill

For the past decade or so, it seems winter on Cape Breton Island is hit or miss.  Sometimes it snows, other times it snows a lot and sometimes it doesn't snow at all.  The winter before last, we had a massive week-long snowstorm and I was able to do plenty of snowshoeing.  Last winter, I didn't use them once.  This winter, I had the chance to use them a few times as we had a pretty good winter as far as snow goes...and I got to snowshoe in some places I've never used my snowshoes before.  

This time I ventured to a familiar place that I haven't been to in a long, long time.  Back in the day when my bones were stronger and I didn't have a care in the world, I zoomed down the slopes of Ski Ben Eoin on skis.  This time, I explored some of their backcountry snowshoe trails on snowshoes and I got to do it at night under a full moon! 

Driving into the parking lot at my old stomping grounds was like stepping back in the past.  It seemed to be very close to how I remember it way back when and I love places like that.  Places I can be away from for many years and they're still the same when I return years later. 

I headed up the chairlift to the top of the mountain where I headed off into the forest.  The trail was clear and well-maintained but there was enough snow for the snowshoeing to be enjoyable.  Sometimes, groomed trails are just too groomed to really enjoy them and it's more like walking than snowshoeing.  I was surprised by how many trails there were and how far back I was able to venture away from civilization.  There were no lights except for the light of that giant moon shining down.  There's something about the forest on a crisp winter's night especially under a full moon. I spent over an hour wandering the trails and returned to the main chalet via the ski hill itself.  Why take the chairlift down when you can snowshoe down the hill while admiring that amazing view over the Bras d'Or Lakes!  

The only changes I really noticed around the hill were that the names of some of the ski trails have changed and the T-bar lift is gone as far I can tell.  It was nice to be back there reminiscing about the days and nights I spent going up and down the mountain without a care in the world.  I think it was that period in my life that made me a winter-loving person even though I don't downhill ski anymore.  I'd like to try it though.  I keep saying "next year".  Maybe next year will be the year... 

 

A Winter Getaway in the Cape Breton Highlands and Beyond

Since mid-December, I've been working overtime - 14-hour days - and desperately needed a break when the text came through.  It was my sister and she proposed something I couldn't say no to.

A few days before receiving the text, my other sister arrived from Alberta for a visit and to celebrate our father's 80th birthday and to celebrate her and her twin sister's birthday the following week.  I had planned to take them out to dinner that weekend but they had other plans: A last-minute getaway to the Cape Breton Highlands to do some skiing, snowshoeing, skating and relaxing in a country cabin away from the craziness of home.  Of course, I said yes.  I didn't even have to think about it.  This was the break I had been dreaming about for months. 

The cabin was an Airbnb in Dingwall, about 30 minutes from Ingonish and the ski hill.  We arrived late in the evening after picking up a pizza and settled in right away.  The place was all wood, cozy and perfect for a winter weekend away from home.  My little nephew loved it from the start, too.  That first evening was spent playing hide and go seek and after he went to bed, it was drinks and chats for the adults. 

The first light of morning was the true reveal.  A huge deck overlooking the water with the rolling mountains of the Cape North area in the background.  It was so beautiful it almost looked like a painting!  

We got ready and left before 9, stopped for breakfast at the only cafe we could find open and reached Ski Cape Smokey before 10.  After getting our passes, we headed up the gondola to the top of the mountain where everyone else did some downhill skiing and I ventured off into the forest on snowshoes.  

The trail I embarked on was 4 kilometers and I honestly didn't think I would complete the entire thing. There was a lake at the end and I really wanted to make it that far.  Two other people came off the trail as I was arriving and I saw no one else after that.  I had the entire forest to myself and it was magical.  The temperature was warm, the skies were clear, the sun was bright and there was lots of fresh snow and scenic vistas all around.  

It was hard going for the first little while and some of it was uphill.  Every time I thought I was too tired and should turn around but I kept going.  Finally, I did make it to that lake.  I relaxed and took in the views for a while and headed back down the trail towards the gondola.  

I was hoping to see some wildlife but all I saw were some bunny tracks.  But I was fine with that as long as I got to enjoy some time in the forest surrounded by nature and peace and quiet. 

Back at the lodge, we grabbed some snacks and headed back to our cabin where we made some supper and just hung out together in our cozy little hideaway.   

I hated to leave the next morning.  We drove to Ingonish and planned to stop at the outdoor skating rink before driving home.  Unfortunately, it was closed but by that time, it was starting to snow and we wanted to get ahead of the storm that was headed our way.  

The snow got heavier and heavier and by the time we got to Sydney, the roads were covered and we had passed a few fender benders on the highway.  We stopped to grab a pizza before that magical weekend came to an end and I have to say, I felt quite relaxed heading into work Monday for another marathon 14-hour day.  I think this is something I should do more often!