Return to the Hill

For the past decade or so, it seems winter on Cape Breton Island is hit or miss.  Sometimes it snows, other times it snows a lot and sometimes it doesn't snow at all.  The winter before last, we had a massive week-long snowstorm and I was able to do plenty of snowshoeing.  Last winter, I didn't use them once.  This winter, I had the chance to use them a few times as we had a pretty good winter as far as snow goes...and I got to snowshoe in some places I've never used my snowshoes before.  

This time I ventured to a familiar place that I haven't been to in a long, long time.  Back in the day when my bones were stronger and I didn't have a care in the world, I zoomed down the slopes of Ski Ben Eoin on skis.  This time, I explored some of their backcountry snowshoe trails on snowshoes and I got to do it at night under a full moon! 

Driving into the parking lot at my old stomping grounds was like stepping back in the past.  It seemed to be very close to how I remember it way back when and I love places like that.  Places I can be away from for many years and they're still the same when I return years later. 

I headed up the chairlift to the top of the mountain where I headed off into the forest.  The trail was clear and well-maintained but there was enough snow for the snowshoeing to be enjoyable.  Sometimes, groomed trails are just too groomed to really enjoy them and it's more like walking than snowshoeing.  I was surprised by how many trails there were and how far back I was able to venture away from civilization.  There were no lights except for the light of that giant moon shining down.  There's something about the forest on a crisp winter's night especially under a full moon. I spent over an hour wandering the trails and returned to the main chalet via the ski hill itself.  Why take the chairlift down when you can snowshoe down the hill while admiring that amazing view over the Bras d'Or Lakes!  

The only changes I really noticed around the hill were that the names of some of the ski trails have changed and the T-bar lift is gone as far I can tell.  It was nice to be back there reminiscing about the days and nights I spent going up and down the mountain without a care in the world.  I think it was that period in my life that made me a winter-loving person even though I don't downhill ski anymore.  I'd like to try it though.  I keep saying "next year".  Maybe next year will be the year... 

 

A Winter Getaway in the Cape Breton Highlands and Beyond

Since mid-December, I've been working overtime - 14-hour days - and desperately needed a break when the text came through.  It was my sister and she proposed something I couldn't say no to.

A few days before receiving the text, my other sister arrived from Alberta for a visit and to celebrate our father's 80th birthday and to celebrate her and her twin sister's birthday the following week.  I had planned to take them out to dinner that weekend but they had other plans: A last-minute getaway to the Cape Breton Highlands to do some skiing, snowshoeing, skating and relaxing in a country cabin away from the craziness of home.  Of course, I said yes.  I didn't even have to think about it.  This was the break I had been dreaming about for months. 

The cabin was an Airbnb in Dingwall, about 30 minutes from Ingonish and the ski hill.  We arrived late in the evening after picking up a pizza and settled in right away.  The place was all wood, cozy and perfect for a winter weekend away from home.  My little nephew loved it from the start, too.  That first evening was spent playing hide and go seek and after he went to bed, it was drinks and chats for the adults. 

The first light of morning was the true reveal.  A huge deck overlooking the water with the rolling mountains of the Cape North area in the background.  It was so beautiful it almost looked like a painting!  

We got ready and left before 9, stopped for breakfast at the only cafe we could find open and reached Ski Cape Smokey before 10.  After getting our passes, we headed up the gondola to the top of the mountain where everyone else did some downhill skiing and I ventured off into the forest on snowshoes.  

The trail I embarked on was 4 kilometers and I honestly didn't think I would complete the entire thing. There was a lake at the end and I really wanted to make it that far.  Two other people came off the trail as I was arriving and I saw no one else after that.  I had the entire forest to myself and it was magical.  The temperature was warm, the skies were clear, the sun was bright and there was lots of fresh snow and scenic vistas all around.  

It was hard going for the first little while and some of it was uphill.  Every time I thought I was too tired and should turn around but I kept going.  Finally, I did make it to that lake.  I relaxed and took in the views for a while and headed back down the trail towards the gondola.  

I was hoping to see some wildlife but all I saw were some bunny tracks.  But I was fine with that as long as I got to enjoy some time in the forest surrounded by nature and peace and quiet. 

Back at the lodge, we grabbed some snacks and headed back to our cabin where we made some supper and just hung out together in our cozy little hideaway.   

I hated to leave the next morning.  We drove to Ingonish and planned to stop at the outdoor skating rink before driving home.  Unfortunately, it was closed but by that time, it was starting to snow and we wanted to get ahead of the storm that was headed our way.  

The snow got heavier and heavier and by the time we got to Sydney, the roads were covered and we had passed a few fender benders on the highway.  We stopped to grab a pizza before that magical weekend came to an end and I have to say, I felt quite relaxed heading into work Monday for another marathon 14-hour day.  I think this is something I should do more often! 

 

To Travel or Not to Travel

Well, the day I thought would never come has arrived. I never thought I would say this, but I think I am sick of traveling.  For now, at least.  

I still love everything about travel.  I love hanging out in airports, arriving in a new destination, learning about new cultures, hanging out with locals, exploring off-the-beaten places and just being somewhere I've never been before. But lately, travel just seems like a huge hassle.

When I last left the country before Covid-19, international travel was a breeze compared to what it is now.  I got to my destination with very few delays and hitches and had the time of my life.  

In comparison, the last time I traveled far from home was last year and the getting there and getting home part of the trip was disastrous and the trip itself was spent with the flu due to a woman sitting across from me on my flight who thought it was a good idea to board a plane with the plague, refuse to wear a mask and make half the plane sick.  

I planned to travel this past fall.  I didn't end up going.  I procrastinated because of everything going on.  Airlines threatening strikes, high prices for everything, illness outbreaks, flight cancellations...then I got Covid.  Good call.  I would have spent a week in Iceland hoping to see the Northern Lights but shivering under the covers in a hostel dorm instead. 

I still have it in the back of my mind to go somewhere this spring but....more strike threats, more airline drama and prices rising even more.  AND I get sick every time I travel now.  Nothing worse than being in a foreign country alone and sick. Spend all that money to go on vacation only to spend it in bed and miserable. 

There are still several places I'd love to see in the United States (San Francisco, Hawaii, Nashville) but with everything going on down there with political unrest, border nightmares and violence, I think I'll wait that out for a few more years at least.  

Elsewhere in the world, it's the threat of illness, flight cancellations and all the regular travel hiccups I'm used to but times 10.  I just can't be bothered. Travel seems like more of a hassle now and a hassle that just doesn't seem worth the trouble.  The reality of booking a vacation and only being able to enjoy a fraction of it due to cancellations, delays and strikes and who knows what else these days, seems like too much of an emotional and financial gamble right now.  

Don't get me wrong.  I still want to see many places yet. Just not right now. Well, I'm still debating whether to go somewhere in the next year.  Japan or Iceland are the two destinations I'm eyeing.  But really, I just love it here so much in Cape Breton that I'm starting to feel like I don't really need to travel much anymore.  I have everything I could need and want here.  The beaches on this island are more beautiful than any I've seen anywhere else I've been.  The Cabot Trail makes most of the places I've traveled seem mediocre. The culture and history is more colorful than any others I've explored and summers here are incredible.  I will never leave Cape Breton Island in summer ever again.  If I do travel again in the future, it will be in any other season but summer!

So what will the future bring? It's hard to say.  As I write this, I'm perfectly content sticking around Cape Breton.  But that trip to Iceland is already almost planned out so it feels like I might as well go at some point.  And Japan is calling my name.  And New Zealand has been a dream since childhood.  I'm healthy and in no hurry to depart this world yet, so there's still plenty of time to make those dreams come true.  I also change my mind a lot so really, who knows! 

 

 

 

A Late Summer Trip to the Mainland

I know I should explore the rest of Nova Scotia more.  I love Cape Breton so much that I rarely leave it to see the rest of the province.  This past summer, I got the chance to go to the South Shore for a weekend getaway.  I wouldn't normally plan a getaway like this this time of year because summers are so amazing in Cape Breton, but someone gave me a gift certificate for a bed and breakfast in Mahone Bay.  Since it would otherwise go to waste, I called up the property and made a reservation for a weekend in mid-September.  Then I called up a good road-tripping friend and off we went on a journey to the other end of the province. 

The drive from Cape Breton to Mahone typically takes about six hours but it took us much longer.  When you take into account that we got lost, took a few wrong turnoffs, stopped for food and bathroom breaks and made a detour to visit Peggy's Cove, it took closer to nine or ten hours. 

By the time we got to Peggy's Cove, it was late afternoon.  I was expecting it to be deserted due to it being so late in the day and late in the season.  But that wasn't the case at all.  There were people everywhere.  They were in the shops, lined up to eat, wandering around the lighthouse itself, walking down every street in the little village.  I could barely get through the crowds at times and I was only able to get one decent picture of the lighthouse and it still had strangers in it.  

Peggy's Cove was not how I remembered it.  I was very young the last time I was there and all I remembered was a few shops and the lighthouse.  Maybe it was a huge tourist trap back then too, but I just never noticed as a child.  The shops are nice and there are good options for food and drink and some interesting things to look at, including the lighthouse, of course.  But, in all honesty, I can go down to Low Point Lighthouse five minutes away from my house in New Waterford and see one that is just as beautiful, if not more so. 

We headed straight for the lighthouse first and then headed back to the village where we grabbed something to eat, browsed the shops and admired the scenery. When we were done in the village, we drove to a spot a few minutes away where there was a monument set up for the people who were lost in the Swissair disaster that happened in the waters just off Peggy's Cove in 1998. 

From Peggy's Cove, it was smooth sailing all the way to Mahone Bay except for one construction zone where we were stopped for a while. 

We arrived at River Ridge Lodge around 7:00 PM and the owner Frauke came right outside to greet us and get us settled in.  We retreated to our room, unpacked and organized a little before heading out to find somewhere still open to grab something to eat. Unfortunately, that didn't happen as planned.  Everything was closed, so we grabbed some food from the grocery store and just had snacks back at our room. After the long drive and running around looking for food, we were ready to hit the sack fairly early that night.   

The next morning, we got on the road early with somewhat of a plan for the day.  Our first stop was Oak Island and the setting for the popular television reality show centered around finding the treasure that is said to be buried there. 

We crossed the causeway and pulled up to the gate where a woman was waiting.  As it turned out, we wouldn't be seeing much because the cast and crew were inside the area filming and the interpretation centre was closed.  We parked in the parking lot and just took some pictures of the memorial and kept going towards downtown Mahone Bay. 

It was a pretty morning to take a short stroll around this pretty little town.  After speaking with some nice ladies with Tourism Nova Scotia and getting some directions on how to get on the scenic route everyone was telling us about, I grabbed a coffee for the road and off we went toward Lunenburg.  Of course, we got lost but eventually found our way.  I have the worst sense of direction, even when a GPS is guiding me along!

The drive to Lunenburg was a nice, relaxing one.  We arrived in the colorful little town to discover that some festivities were going on and The Bluenose was in town and open for free tours. We parked quite far away from the waterfront because there were very few parking spots left anywhere.  The walk to the waterfront was all downhill and the fact that that meant the walk back would be all uphill wasn't lost on me. 

There was music, food and face paintings and a number of antique cars were lined up for everyone to see.  After a tour of The Bluenose, some hotdogs and a rest overlooking the water, we walked up and down the streets for a bit checking out some of the shops and then headed back to the car to continue our journey.   

We were told that we would have to board a car ferry at some point to cross to LaHave.  We arrived when the ferry was on the other side loading cars so we had a little wait.  According to several people we have spoken to since our arrival on the South Shore, we needed to stop at the LaHave Bakery which is only about a minute from the ferry dock on the other side. 

We pulled into the parking lot and were both surprised at the size of the place and the fact that it appeared to be more than just a simple bakery. The first thing that hit me was the smell of freshly baked goods and the second thing that hit me was the old-school look and feel of the place.  It was like I stepped back in time. There were artifacts, ornaments and pictures all over the walls and any space that could hold something.  There being so much to look at made it seem more like a museum than a bakery!

I took my place in line to get some goodies and settled on a slice of vegetarian Mediterranean-style pizza and a Nanaimo Bar.  Both were delicious and the price was right for something made on-site from scratch. 

We took our food outside and ate on the deck overlooking a view of the harbour. When we were done, we went back inside and looked around the gift shop and bookstore.  I was on the hunt for something suitable for my 3-year-old nephew for his upcoming birthday but everything was too breakable for his rambunctious age.  

I'd heard about Crescent Beach and its sandy shore and crystal clear water and always wanted to go there and see it for myself.  As we pulled into the parking area and I gazed at the expansive stretch of coastline before me, I was impressed with the width and length of the beach and the fact that the water felt quite warm even for that late in the season.  I was not, however, impressed with the fact that cars are allowed to drive on the beach.  I like my beaches quiet, natural and car-free. 

We didn't stay long.  I contemplated going for a swim but the air was a bit too cool and I didn't want to catch a chill.  We next stopped at a beach called Resser's Beach Provincial Park and this one was more like my kind of beach.  Wild, remote, natural and surrounded by nice scenery.  

We walked the beach from one end to the other and moved onto the beautiful boardwalk and walked the entire length of it as well.  There was a food truck set up by the common area where the bathrooms and other facilities were and I thought what a great idea that would be if someone could do that at my favorite beach back home.   

By the time we left Resser's Beach, it was getting close to supper time.  I didn't want to be driving around the area at dark because I'd already almost hit a deer on the way into town the night before.  Also, since we didn't get to have a very good supper the night before, we wanted to get back to Mahone Bay to find a nice restaurant to sit down and have a hot meal before everything started to close.  It was Sunday after all and I didn't know what time anything closed on Sunday evenings. 

We drove straight to where we were staying and got changed and headed to town.  It was quite late and by the looks of it, many things had already closed.  We drove around downtown looking for an interesting place to eat and once we decided on a place that had been previously recommended to us, we parked the car and started walking in the direction where we had been told the restaurant was.  

We were told Betty's at the Kitch was open late and it was only a few minutes on foot from where we were parked.  The part about being open late was true but it took more than a few minutes to walk there!  More like 15 minutes and being as hungry as we were by that point, we were not too happy having to walk so far.  We just kept walking and walking and at one point, I thought we had gone the wrong way because we still get to it.  Finally, I saw people standing outside a building and then I saw the sign.  

We were given a seat for two by a window where we could look out onto the night street.  The place was cozy, warm, quiet and inviting.  Everything one could want in a late-night meal.  The service was amazing and the food was perfect!  Delicious, well-portioned and served at just the right temperature.  We took our time eating and savouring our first meal of the trip.  The walk back didn't seem to take as long.  It never does when you're going back. 

After such a long day of exploring, I fell asleep not long after getting back to our room.  The next morning, I awoke early, packed, had a quick breakfast and took a walk around the grounds and across the street where there was a little boat house on the river.  

Before check-out, we took one last drive into town to get coffee and visit a bakery that had been recommended to us.  I had some quiche and a cinnamon roll before taking a drive to the other side of the harbour to get some pictures of the Three Churches.  Before long, we were checked out and back on the highway for the long drive home.   

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

Some Fall Hiking in Sterling and Framboise

I never know where I'll end up when I go to Framboise with Dad.  There's always a new place to hike, a new beach or lake to see or a road I've never been down before.  

Last week, the weather called for a nice day on one of my days off and with winter approaching, I wanted to get out and enjoy the great outdoors.  That's why I said "yes" when Dad asked me to join him for a day of hiking in Framboise.

I love these little day trips with Dad.  We leave early, grab some breakfast and coffees somewhere along the way and make the long drive to this remote part of the island where it's just coastline and forest as far as you can see.

It was a little windy and cool that day so Dad suggested we do a hike in the Sterling which is away from the coast.  I haven't done a whole lot of hiking in that area and a walk in the woods with the leaves changing color sounded good to me!

We parked the car a little ways up a dirt road and started walking from there.  It was a nice, easy walk through some thick forest and at one point, we crossed a stream lined with colorful trees.  There wasn't a whole lot of water as we are going through a drought but it still made for a nice picture.   I stopped for a few minutes and took in the picturesque scene before me.  

About twenty minutes into the hike, we reached an old, abandoned farmhouse.  I love coming upon these sites and exploring the grounds while I imagine what it must have been like so many years ago when a young family thrived here.  It's sad to think that they are all gone and this is the legacy they left behind.  Somewhere, there are descendants of those people still living who likely don't even know that their distant relative's old homestead still stands.

The trail kept going a little ways beyond the homestead and when the brush became too thick to keep going, we turned around and headed back to the car.  

It was still early enough to do another hike so we went down the road to one that we had attempted a few years ago.  The last time we did this hike, the bridge was washed out.  This time, it was rebuilt and intact so we were able to cross and keep going much further than we did before.  In fact, we went so far that it was almost dark when we decided that we should turn around before we got caught hiking at night without flashlights.  

We were going to head home the way we came but I convinced Dad to go to St. Peter's and take the long way home via Route 4 along the Bras d'Or Lakes.  We grabbed some coffee for the road and made the long drive home.   

An Early Fall Camping Trip in Cheticamp

It's not very often that I get a camping trip in after mid-September but the weather has been so nice this fall, I planned a last-minute camping trip to Cheticamp.

I was originally just going to go there to visit some friends but when I saw the forecast, I thought "what the heck" and booked a site for one night in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.  It's a good thing I always leave my camping gear in the car until the end of fall, just in case. 

I left super early in the morning and grabbed myself a pumpkin spice latte for the road and took my time on the long drive to my campsite.  I did many of the shops on the other side of the Cabot Trail earlier in the week so I made a point to stop at a few on this side too.  

The Red Barn has always been a stop on family outings and now, as an adult, I always stop there too.  I found some good sales and bought a few Christmas gifts and gifts for myself before heading through the Margaree Valley and onto Chetimcamp. 

I made it to the campground mid-afternoon and started setting up the tent right away.  Better to get set up and out of the way before it gets cold and the flies come out. I got it put up in no time.  For a tent that was almost impossible to set up earlier in the summer when I first started using it, I've certainly gotten used to setting it up with no issues!

After everything was in the tent and ready for the night, I sat in my beach chair with a book and some snacks and relaxed for a bit.  Later that afternoon, I went for a drive through the town of Cheticamp and stopped at the beach on Cheticamp Island to watch the sunset.  On the way back, I took the Cheticamp Back Road and kept going past the campground into the Cape Breton Highlands National Park to see I could spot some wildlife.  

When I got back to camp, it was dark and a little chilly.  I changed into some warmer clothes and sat outside watching the clear night sky for a while.  When it became too cold and damp to sit out anymore, I got ready for bed and hopped into my thermal sleeping bag for the long, chilly night ahead. 

I admit, I didn't have the best sleep.  It was a little cold and uncomfortable but I made it.  Mornings are the worst after a cold night in a tent.  Everything was wet and the air was cold and damp.  I got dressed and hopped in the car with the heat up as high as it could go and drove into town for a hot coffee and a little drive along the shore. 

When I got back to my site, the sun was out and things had dried off a bit.  I started taking everything down.  After it was all packed up in the car, I headed back towards Cheticamp Island to meet my friend. 

The weather had forecast it to be warmer than it was so we thought we were going to go swimming.  Well, that didn't happen.  We went to Chimney Corner Beach and Whale Cove Beach but instead of swimsuits, we were wearing hoodies.  We walked both beaches, caught up on some gossip, cooked up some hotdogs and went our separate ways just at sunset.  

 

 

Last-minute Fall Road Trip...complete with shopping, beaches and ice cream!

Well, I was thinking about traveling to Iceland this October but instead, I procrastinated and didn't jump on those seat sales I was seeing.  By the time I decided that I would definitely like to go, flights were priced way too high out of my budget. Oh well.  I took vacation time anyway.  Really, I can't think of a better place to spend early fall than on Cape Breton Island!  Iceland or some other Exotic destination can wait until spring.

One day early into my two-week vacation, I took a last-minute road trip to visit a friend at her camper trailer in Jersey Cove.  I decided to take this trip while I was browsing local shops for a Halloween costume.  Now that my nephew is three years old, I figure it's time I start dressing up so he isn't the only one looking like a fool!  A combination of the pumpkin spice latte I was sipping on and the colourful leaves rustling in the cool breeze had me feeling very fall-ish and there are few things in life I love more than a long drive on a sunny, fall day. 

I arrived after a relatively peaceful morning drive.  We took a little walk around the grounds and down to the water.  The sound of leaves rustling in the trees and the water gently rolling over the rocks on the beach was so peaceful.  

In late summer, I heard we wouldn't have very nice fall colours this year due to the drought we had experienced but I thought they looked just as pretty as any other year.  They weren't as bright and there seemed to be fewer leaves than usual but still so pretty nonetheless. 

It was too cold to go swimming and I wasn't really in the mood for a hike that day so I thought it would be a perfect day to go for a scenic drive to Ingonish while stopping at all the gift shops along the way.  This time of year, there are discounts on items that need to be gotten rid of before the end of the season.  And yes, we did indeed find some good deals!

Our first stop was Cabotto Chocolates.  Being the chocolate lover that I am and the number of times I've driven by this place, I never stopped there until this day.  I think it's because I'm always focused on just passing through and getting to Ingonish to hit the beach as early as possible. Or maybe it's because I know I have no self-control when it comes to chocolate!

 

I was surprised at how many different chocolate items there were in this place!  They had a variety of flavors, shapes, sizes..and yes, what I tried, was delicious!  There were also sea glass candy, souvenirs and local books.  I bought a little treat for myself and made a mental note to come back before Christmas for some last-minute gifts some chocolate lovers I know. 

Next, we stopped at the O.C. Emporium.  This is another place I always just drove by and despite my curiosity, I never had time to stop and check it out.  Again, I was surprised at how much stuff was in there!  There were local crafts, homemade soaps, essential oils, herbs, books, jewellery, gluten-free food and almost everything else under the sun!  

Next was the Wreck Cove General Store.  I always love stopping here because it brings back memories from years and years ago when my family always stopped here for treats on the way to Ingonish or on trips about the Cabot Trail.  It still looks pretty much the same as it did then and that's why I like it so much!  I found some great deals on some gifts here.  They had discounted ice cream which of course, I had to sample!  

We kept driving over Cape Smokey and onto Ingonish where we spent the rest of the day enjoying the scenery and stopping at beaches to stretch our legs.  Just before dark, we headed back over the mountain.  

 

 

 

 

It's not a True Cape Breton Summer without at least one Visit to the Fortress...or Two!

Many years ago, when I first moved back to Cape Breton, my family started a tradition of going to the Fortress of Louisbourg every Canada Day.  This year, we thought about doing something different for a change and we did.  But before the day was done, we ended up at the fortress like we always do.

The day started off with some indecision on everyone's part.  At first, I was going to go to Ingonish to attend a concert at Cape Smokey.  When no one else wanted to travel that far, we thought it might be nice to stay close to town and take my little nephew to some festivities at Colliery Lands Park. 

 We did end up at the park and it turned ok.  Little Liam was nervous of the crowd at first but he warmed up to it and took a liking to the duck pond area.  We stayed there for about an hour or so and when Liam got tired and cranky, him and his mom headed home, leaving me and Dad wondering what to do next, if anything. 

It's like the car knew just where to go because we ended up in Louisbourg. There was a good crowd and the weather was decent.  We walked around the fortress, took some pictures, watched some musket firings and wandered around some of the buildings before heading back home.  

Some summers, I don't get the chance to visit the fortress a second time but I did end up back there again in late July when my other sister was home visiting from Alberta. Her boyfriend is from Quebec so the whole French aspect of the Fortress and its history is of particular interest to him.  

There was a lot going on that day at the fortress!  We got there at a good time to see many demonstrations.  We got to watch a public shaming of a thief, some musket firings, some cannon firings and a lively dance. And we had time leftover to walk around and explore the grounds a bit more. 

 

 

 

Chasing Sunsets, Meteors, Full Moons and Northern Lights

I have a lot of favourite things but some things that are at the top of my list of favorite things are sunsets, full moons and meteor showers.  Lately, I've added the Northern Lights to the list because we've only started really seeing them in the sky over Cape Breton this past year or two. 

I had many opportunities early in the summer to enjoy all of these things.  I didn't take any vacation too early on and was sticking closer to home at that time.  

One memorable evening early in the summer, I picked up my good friend and drove out to Port Morien where we tried to find the Northern Lights and see if we could see any meteors. We saw neither but it was a good night anyway.  

A few nights later, we drove out to Donkin where we got adventurous and drove down some roads we had never been down before and found a beautiful look-off where we enjoyed a spectacular sunset.  By the time we got to Big Glace Bay Beach just down the road, the sky was still red, orange and yellow! 

Wildfires broke out on the mainland and although quite a distance away, the smoke reached Cape Breton and had dramatic effects on our sunrises and sunsets for a few days.  

Sunsets, full moons, meteors and Northern Lights played a role in all my summer adventures but those first days of summer were some of the best.