A Late Summer Trip to the Mainland

I know I should explore the rest of Nova Scotia more.  I love Cape Breton so much that I rarely leave it to see the rest of the province.  This past summer, I got the chance to go to the South Shore for a weekend getaway.  I wouldn't normally plan a getaway like this this time of year because summers are so amazing in Cape Breton, but someone gave me a gift certificate for a bed and breakfast in Mahone Bay.  Since it would otherwise go to waste, I called up the property and made a reservation for a weekend in mid-September.  Then I called up a good road-tripping friend and off we went on a journey to the other end of the province. 

The drive from Cape Breton to Mahone typically takes about six hours but it took us much longer.  When you take into account that we got lost, took a few wrong turnoffs, stopped for food and bathroom breaks and made a detour to visit Peggy's Cove, it took closer to nine or ten hours. 

By the time we got to Peggy's Cove, it was late afternoon.  I was expecting it to be deserted due to it being so late in the day and late in the season.  But that wasn't the case at all.  There were people everywhere.  They were in the shops, lined up to eat, wandering around the lighthouse itself, walking down every street in the little village.  I could barely get through the crowds at times and I was only able to get one decent picture of the lighthouse and it still had strangers in it.  

Peggy's Cove was not how I remembered it.  I was very young the last time I was there and all I remembered was a few shops and the lighthouse.  Maybe it was a huge tourist trap back then too, but I just never noticed as a child.  The shops are nice and there are good options for food and drink and some interesting things to look at, including the lighthouse, of course.  But, in all honesty, I can go down to Low Point Lighthouse five minutes away from my house in New Waterford and see one that is just as beautiful, if not more so. 

We headed straight for the lighthouse first and then headed back to the village where we grabbed something to eat, browsed the shops and admired the scenery. When we were done in the village, we drove to a spot a few minutes away where there was a monument set up for the people who were lost in the Swissair disaster that happened in the waters just off Peggy's Cove in 1998. 

From Peggy's Cove, it was smooth sailing all the way to Mahone Bay except for one construction zone where we were stopped for a while. 

We arrived at River Ridge Lodge around 7:00 PM and the owner Frauke came right outside to greet us and get us settled in.  We retreated to our room, unpacked and organized a little before heading out to find somewhere still open to grab something to eat. Unfortunately, that didn't happen as planned.  Everything was closed, so we grabbed some food from the grocery store and just had snacks back at our room. After the long drive and running around looking for food, we were ready to hit the sack fairly early that night.   

The next morning, we got on the road early with somewhat of a plan for the day.  Our first stop was Oak Island and the setting for the popular television reality show centered around finding the treasure that is said to be buried there. 

We crossed the causeway and pulled up to the gate where a woman was waiting.  As it turned out, we wouldn't be seeing much because the cast and crew were inside the area filming and the interpretation centre was closed.  We parked in the parking lot and just took some pictures of the memorial and kept going towards downtown Mahone Bay. 

It was a pretty morning to take a short stroll around this pretty little town.  After speaking with some nice ladies with Tourism Nova Scotia and getting some directions on how to get on the scenic route everyone was telling us about, I grabbed a coffee for the road and off we went toward Lunenburg.  Of course, we got lost but eventually found our way.  I have the worst sense of direction, even when a GPS is guiding me along!

The drive to Lunenburg was a nice, relaxing one.  We arrived in the colorful little town to discover that some festivities were going on and The Bluenose was in town and open for free tours. We parked quite far away from the waterfront because there were very few parking spots left anywhere.  The walk to the waterfront was all downhill and the fact that that meant the walk back would be all uphill wasn't lost on me. 

There was music, food and face paintings and a number of antique cars were lined up for everyone to see.  After a tour of The Bluenose, some hotdogs and a rest overlooking the water, we walked up and down the streets for a bit checking out some of the shops and then headed back to the car to continue our journey.   

We were told that we would have to board a car ferry at some point to cross to LaHave.  We arrived when the ferry was on the other side loading cars so we had a little wait.  According to several people we have spoken to since our arrival on the South Shore, we needed to stop at the LaHave Bakery which is only about a minute from the ferry dock on the other side. 

We pulled into the parking lot and were both surprised at the size of the place and the fact that it appeared to be more than just a simple bakery. The first thing that hit me was the smell of freshly baked goods and the second thing that hit me was the old-school look and feel of the place.  It was like I stepped back in time. There were artifacts, ornaments and pictures all over the walls and any space that could hold something.  There being so much to look at made it seem more like a museum than a bakery!

I took my place in line to get some goodies and settled on a slice of vegetarian Mediterranean-style pizza and a Nanaimo Bar.  Both were delicious and the price was right for something made on-site from scratch. 

We took our food outside and ate on the deck overlooking a view of the harbour. When we were done, we went back inside and looked around the gift shop and bookstore.  I was on the hunt for something suitable for my 3-year-old nephew for his upcoming birthday but everything was too breakable for his rambunctious age.  

I'd heard about Crescent Beach and its sandy shore and crystal clear water and always wanted to go there and see it for myself.  As we pulled into the parking area and I gazed at the expansive stretch of coastline before me, I was impressed with the width and length of the beach and the fact that the water felt quite warm even for that late in the season.  I was not, however, impressed with the fact that cars are allowed to drive on the beach.  I like my beaches quiet, natural and car-free. 

We didn't stay long.  I contemplated going for a swim but the air was a bit too cool and I didn't want to catch a chill.  We next stopped at a beach called Resser's Beach Provincial Park and this one was more like my kind of beach.  Wild, remote, natural and surrounded by nice scenery.  

We walked the beach from one end to the other and moved onto the beautiful boardwalk and walked the entire length of it as well.  There was a food truck set up by the common area where the bathrooms and other facilities were and I thought what a great idea that would be if someone could do that at my favorite beach back home.   

By the time we left Resser's Beach, it was getting close to supper time.  I didn't want to be driving around the area at dark because I'd already almost hit a deer on the way into town the night before.  Also, since we didn't get to have a very good supper the night before, we wanted to get back to Mahone Bay to find a nice restaurant to sit down and have a hot meal before everything started to close.  It was Sunday after all and I didn't know what time anything closed on Sunday evenings. 

We drove straight to where we were staying and got changed and headed to town.  It was quite late and by the looks of it, many things had already closed.  We drove around downtown looking for an interesting place to eat and once we decided on a place that had been previously recommended to us, we parked the car and started walking in the direction where we had been told the restaurant was.  

We were told Betty's at the Kitch was open late and it was only a few minutes on foot from where we were parked.  The part about being open late was true but it took more than a few minutes to walk there!  More like 15 minutes and being as hungry as we were by that point, we were not too happy having to walk so far.  We just kept walking and walking and at one point, I thought we had gone the wrong way because we still get to it.  Finally, I saw people standing outside a building and then I saw the sign.  

We were given a seat for two by a window where we could look out onto the night street.  The place was cozy, warm, quiet and inviting.  Everything one could want in a late-night meal.  The service was amazing and the food was perfect!  Delicious, well-portioned and served at just the right temperature.  We took our time eating and savouring our first meal of the trip.  The walk back didn't seem to take as long.  It never does when you're going back. 

After such a long day of exploring, I fell asleep not long after getting back to our room.  The next morning, I awoke early, packed, had a quick breakfast and took a walk around the grounds and across the street where there was a little boat house on the river.  

Before check-out, we took one last drive into town to get coffee and visit a bakery that had been recommended to us.  I had some quiche and a cinnamon roll before taking a drive to the other side of the harbour to get some pictures of the Three Churches.  Before long, we were checked out and back on the highway for the long drive home.   

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

Long Weekend Road Trip to Nova Scotia's South Shore

I was born and raised in Nova Scotia and, minus the 11 years I spent living in Newfoundland, I have spent most of my life in the province. My family home has always been on Cape Breton Island in the eastern portion of Nova Scotia and although I wandered far and wide over the years and have seen most of Canada and the United States, I am ashamed to admit that travel around my home province has been surprisingly limited. I know every main highway, secondary highway and back road in Cape Breton and I’m pretty sure I know the island better than the back of my own hand but when it comes to the rest of the province on the other side of the Canso Causeway, I can only say I’ve driven through on the Trans Canada Highway to travel somewhere else in Canada or the US, I’ve done some Christmas shopping in Halifax and Truro and I visited Peggy’s Cove and a few other notable landmarks and sites as a child. During the most recent Canadian long weekend, I had the opportunity to see a part of my province that I had never explored before; the south shore as far as Port Mouton near Liverpool.

My sister moved to the southern shore of Nova Scotia after finishing work for the season in northern Cape Breton. A few days before the long weekend approached, I booked a rental car and made the 7-hour drive to Port Mouton. It was a great opportunity to spend some time with my sister but also to travel to a part of the province I had always wanted to see, especially the town of Lunenburg, a renowned UNESCO world heritage site.

Long weekends don’t come often and rarely do I have the time lately to set out and partake in my favorite long weekend activity – a road trip. I set out that Saturday morning with intentions of making it to my sister’s place by nightfall. I would have made good time if I hadn’t stopped so much. Coffee, meals and bathroom breaks lingered a little longer than they should have because when it comes to new scenery and potential photo ops, out comes the camera and before I know it, a half hour or an hour passes. I ventured off onto a few off-ramps that looked promising only to get lost and have to try and make my way back to the highway and continue on with my journey. I still made it to Port Mouton in good time although it was too dark and I was too tired to go out and explore.

I know long weekends are a time to sleep in for many people but I rarely sleep in anytime. I am one of those strange and rare morning persons. When I sleep in past 7:30, I feel like life is passing me by and I am missing something. This is particular true when the opportunity arises to see or do something I don’t get the chance to do every day. Such an opportunity awaited me that first morning on the South Shore and my excitement would not allow me to sleep in past my normal wake-up time of 7:30. I would have been up earlier if it had not been for the long and exhausting drive the day before. I needed a bit of rest to keep me going for another long day of sightseeing. And what a beautiful day it was; normal temperatures for this time of year in Atlantic Canada hover around zero degrees Celsius and it is not rare for there to be a few inches of snow on the ground but this day was exceptional with a cloudless sky, no snow to be seem and temperatures hovering around the 10 degree mark. Perfect weather for hitting the beach! Well, a walk on the beach in Port Mouton before getting on the highway towards our first destination.

Our first stop was Mahone Bay about an hour from Liverpool. I had heard about the town numerous times but the only thing I really recalled about it was the famous picture of the three churches across the bay that seems to be a part of almost every Atlantic Canadian calendar and graces the front of numerous postcards. With its scenic waterfront, colorful storefronts and colonial buildings, it felt like I had stepped back in time. A walk down the main street of the town revealed many boutique shops with numerous hand-made and hard-to-find unique items in the storefront windows but there was no time for shopping that day. I made a mental note to possibly return closer to the holidays to do some Christmas shopping there.

Next, we made our way towards Lunenburg but were distracted by a street sign that led us in the opposite direction. Anyone who has or does live in Nova Scotia or who has ever indulged themselves in the province’s folklore, has heard about Oak Island Nova Scotia and its famous money pit which is reputed to be the site of buried pirate treasure. Many digs have been conducted around the site and although the elusive treasure has not been found as of yet, there are many indications and clues pointing to it being there in the booby-trapped pit that mysteriously floods every time someone gets so far down. So knowing all this history surrounding the area, when I spotted the sign that indicated Oak Island was to the left and Lunenburg was to the right, we both agreed that it was worth the bit of extra time it would take to drive the seven kilometers to Oak Island in hopes of seeing the money pit for ourselves. Unfortunately, the pit currently lies on private property and was gated off to outsiders. We could see the island but we couldn’t drive or walk to it. I don’t really blame the current owner of the land; I can only imagine how many times he or she must have had to endure enthusiastic treasure hunters coming from all over with their digging tools in hopes of finding buried pirate treasure. I would probably stick a sign and a gate up too though there is currently a rumor spreading around the area that another significant search will be conducted in the near future. I don’t know if it is going to be a government-funded dig or independent but there must be a reason why they would try again after so many years. The evidence pointing to there being something there is just too convincing to pass up.

Because Lunenburg was the most anticipated part of this trip for me, we saved the best for last. I had always wanted to go to Lunenburg. The pictures I had seen of brightly colored houses and fishing shacks and the history I had so often read about in locally written maritime history books intrigued me enough to promise myself that someday I would make the drive there and experience it for myself. The drive to the town was scenic with fields and countrified landscapes leading to the coast. We arrived in mid-afternoon and found a parking spot on the colorful waterfront overlooking a bay filled with little boats and a large schooner docked at the wharf. I heard that The Bluenose, the famed schooner that was built in Lunenburg and put the town on the map, might be in town during my visit but I didn’t see it in plain sight. There was a fairly large schooner docked quite a ways down the harbor in what looked like some sort of shipyard area but it was too far away to see it was, in fact, the famous schooner or not.

We walked the narrow streets admiring the old colonial houses painted in bright colors. Popular maritime lure states that many boat owners painted their homes the same color as their boat but I have yet to determine if that is fact or fiction. Either way, both houses and boats in Lunenburg add a colorful character to both the natural and man-made beauty of the quaint little town. In fact, the town reminded me a lot of St. John’s, Newfoundland. Brightly colored buildings lining every street, painted murals of the seafaring history of yesteryear and steep streets leading up the next layer of shops and restaurants just like the “bowl” effect that the downtown area of St. John’s is famous for. We spent a few hours walking around the town, taking pictures, window shopping and admiring the beautiful artifacts and crafts that were for sale and eating some of the best carrot cake I had every had at one of the waterfront cafes. I could live in a town like Lunenburg. A small town with all the amenities of a larger city. It seemed to be bustling when we were there in the afternoon so I can only imagine what it must be like into the evening with many pubs, restaurants, cafes and bars lining every street.

Darkness comes early this time of year and we wanted to be back on the road before dark to make it back to Liverpool to take some sunset pictures and grab something to eat. There was a music festival going on in the area so many venues were jammed packed or had long lineups so we settled on one that didn’t look to be too crowded but was reputed to be one of the best places in the area to eat. Lane's Privateer Inn couldn’t have been a better place for us that night. We were looking for good food, good coffee (good wine for my sister who was not driving), a relaxing atmosphere and friendly service and this place exceeded our expectations. The food was delicious and the portions were just right and, as is often not the case in many places these days, we got exceptional and personalized service from the staff who were happy to make our visit an enjoyable one. It was the perfect end to a great long weekend with my sister but the weekend wasn’t quite done for me at that point; I still had that long drive back to The Cape early the next morning. Don’t get me wrong, I love nothing more than getting behind the wheel and heading out on the highway for a long drive except this one actually had a destination; back home to the start of a new work week…but at least it wasn’t starting on a Monday!