Beautiful Scenery is Everywhere in Cape Breton

There's beautiful scenery everywhere you look in Cape Breton!  And there are plenty of look-offs with stunning views of this scenery. 

Many people think of the Cabot Trail when they think of Cape Breton scenery, but as you can see, scenery can be found in other areas of the island such as Irish Cove.  This was taken from the look-off along the Route 4 highway.  Rolling hills that meet the Bras d'Or Lakes....a vastly different type of scenery from the rugged coastline that meets the Atlantic Ocean that you see when traveling around the Cabot Trail. 

My Ultimate Staycation....Hopefully Your Ultimate Vacation Someday

Many people around the world are disappointed with the fact that they won't be able to travel outside of their province or state for a while.  I consider myself lucky because I live in one of the most beautiful places in the world.  Ok, I might be a little biased but ask anyone in the know and they will tell you that Cape Breton Island is quite the place!  It has been voted as one of the most scenic islands in the world, it's hosts a world class music festival every fall, it has the world-famous Cabot Trail which has been voted one of the most scenic drives in the world and it's steeped in history and culture.  When this Coronavirus is done with, why not pay my island home a visit?  The friendly people will welcome you with open arms and make you feel right at home!

Cape Breton Island has hundreds of miles of rocky coastline.  It's a place where the sea meets the land and sometimes that land happens to be a secluded sandy beach.  Hope to see you on my island this time next year...making up for lost time!

A Newfoundland Road Tripping Adventure

Onto Bonavista and Twillingate

An Early Morning Start

I woke up very early the day I started my road trip to Twillingate, Newfoundland.  I took a little detour through CBS (Conception Bay South for those of you are not familiar with the local lingo) instead of heading straight for the Trans Canada Highway.  I stopped for a coffee and some breakfast at the Tim Horton's in Paradise and parked at Topsail Beach to eat it and enjoy the view.

To say signage is lacking in many areas of Newfoundland is a slight understatement.  Getting turned around at least once on the trip was expected.  I drove and drove on a highway that I thought was the TCH for miles before seeing a sign that confirmed that I was in fact on the right track.  

The Unexpected Detour

I didn't plan on going to Bonavista but, at the last minute, I heard there was some icebergs in the area.  I expected there to be icebergs in Twillingate as the town is known for its spectacular iceberg sightings.  However, I heard nothing about sightings there so I took a detour to Bonavista to see what might be the only iceberg on my trip.  At Clarenville, I left the TCH and followed the signs to Bonavista only to reach a closed road.  Well, that was unexpected.  I backtracked, got lost and had to stop for directions.  The lady I spoke with made a face that told me I was not the first one to come upon this roadblock that day.  Like I said, poor signage.  She gave me an alternate route and I was on my way.

It took a little longer than expected to reach Bonavista.  I drove for a little over an hour when the thought crossed my mind that I should turn around and head back because at this rate, I would be reaching Twillingate at nightfall.  But I kept driving...and driving.  I figured if I drove that far, I might as well keep going and hopefully there would be some icebergs so the extra side trip would be worth it even if I have to drive in moose country at night.

Finally, I made it to the lovely little town of Bonavista.  I didn't have a lot of extra time so I drove straight toward the harbor and lighthouse in search of icebergs.  I did fine one very small one.  All icebergs are impressive but after witnessing some very impressive ones near St. John's over the years, this one didn't really do much for me.  I took a short cut through a gravel road (I saw this gravel road, had no idea where it went, drove down it anyway out of curiosity and it ended up being a shortcut back to the main road), met some friendly horses along the way and stopped at a Robins Donuts to grab a coffee and inquire about icebergs in the area and to get directions to a place called Amherst Cove where there supposedly was an impressive iceberg attracting visitors.

Finally....Some Icebergs!

I only had to drive for about five minutes before passing the sight indicating I found Amherst Cove.  Another few minutes later, the bay came into view and a quick scan  revealed what looked like three icebergs.  I found out later that it was actually one iceberg that first appeared in the bay with an arch going from one point to another but the arch had melted and because much of the berg is submerged under water, it looks like three separate ones. I admired that massive, ancient chunk of ice, took some pictures and went on my way.  By this point, I was way off schedule.  But it didn't matter because the iceberg made it all worth while.

I backtracked to the main highway and took the same way back to the TCH despite knowing that there was an alternate scenic route that I was heard was worth taking.  My reason for going back the same way?  It may not be what I would normally do when the opportunity is there to take another route, but the late hour, the pothole-ridden roads, the unpredictable weather and the fact that I had a room booked at a hostel in Twillingate all contributed to my decision to drive through the exact same scenery I had already seen only a couple of hours before.

On the Road Again

I don't usually speed (mostly because I'm too cheap to pay for a ticket) but even while doing ten over, everyone was blowing by me.  I stepped it up just a little...well, more like 30 over the limit just to keep up with everyone and make up time.  My logic was the person in front of me speeding would be pulled over first.  I don't know if that's the way it works or not.  I blew through Terra Nova National Park hoping all the way through that a moose wouldn't step out in front of me.

By the time I reached the turn off in Gander, the sun was starting to set.  I wanted to keep driving so I would arrive before nightfall but I was too starved to drive anymore.  I grabbed some take out at a truck stop and quickly ate it in the parking lot and was off again.  I has asked someone how much longer to Twillingate and she responded with the usual "oh not that long".  I lived in Newfoundland long enough to know what this meant; not that long usually means long by most standards.  Islanders are used to traveling back and forth between Gander and Clarenville and Gander and Stephenville and St. John's to Corner Brook.  Long drives by most mainlanders' standards.  Just a routine drive for most Newfoundlanders.

The Long Road to Twillingate

I started out on the secondary highway 340 (also known as Road to the Isles) and drove...and drove...and drove.  I drove until I reached the point where "oh not that long" was long past.  I stopped at another service station and was told it would be another hour before I reached Twillingate.  Lovely.  I had already been on that highway almost an hour.  It was like I entered some kind black hole or alternate dimension.  It took everyone else "not that long" to get there.  But me?  It felt like I just kept driving and driving on this never-ending highway.  I knew Twillingate was a coastal village but the ocean was nowhere in sight!

Checking in

Finally, I passed a sign welcoming me to the town of Twillingate and than drove for another twenty minutes until I actually reached what looked like the coastal town I had seen in pictures.  I didn't have any trouble finding my home for the night, Hi-Tides Hostel.  It was right on the main road.  I parked and checked in so I could drop my belongings off and head out to take some pictures before darkness fell and those dark clouds that were moving in opened up.

Walking through the back door of the hostel felt like walking into an old friends home.  Shoes of guests who had already arrived lined against the wall, soft lighting over a kitchen where two guests prepared a late evening snack.  The sound of an acoustic guitar being played in a cozy living area where some young backpackers from across country were hosting an impromptu jam session.  The room where I would be sleeping was dark and quiet with four bunks.  After a brief introduction to the four ladies sharing the room with me, I unpacked some things and tossed them in a locker and headed out with my camera.  It was a good thing I also brought my rain jacket because only seconds after I managed to capture a few lovely shots of the harbour, the sky opened up.  I found myself trapped in a gazebo for about twenty minutes waiting for the worse of it to pass.  It was nice though.  A beautiful scene before me, the sounds of rain drops above me and not a soul around to bother me.

Despite sharing a room with 3 other people, I slept like a baby.  The three other women in the room were quiet and I got to know them a bit better the next morning at breakfast.   All were travelers passing through Newfoundland on cross-country journeys.  I always take an interest in these people making these cross-country journeys.  I've met a lot of them over the years.  They always seem to start the journey in Newfoundland and I meet them onboard one of the ferries or while hiking the East Coast Trail.  I envy those making this journey as it is one I've been wanting to make since I can remember.  I know I will do it one day.

Exploring the Lovely Village of Twillingate

I awoke early that Sunday and realized it was Sunday.  How did I realize it was Sunday?  Everything was closed, including that lovely cafe up the street that I was wanting to visit. I drove around and found another quaint-looking cafe with a "CLOSED" sign on the door.  Breakfast ended up being a muffin and cheese sticks from a local gas station.  I headed towards St. John's but took my time going back.  I noticed some photo-worthy scenes on the way to Twillingate but I was in such a hurry to get to the hostel that I didn't have time to stop.

By early afternoon, I was back on the noisy Trans Canada Highway.  I didn't see any moose on the way back despite everyone telling me they are everywhere this year. For some strange reason, I was drawn to a sign pointing to a place called Arnold's Cove just outside Clarenville.  I turned off onto the off-ramp and found myself in a picturesque little outport village.  Sometimes it's worth it to take a random off ramp once and a while.  This was one of those times.  

Back in the City

I arrived in St. John's in the early evening and checked into the Abba Inn on Queens Rd.  With everything in order for the evening, I drove around looking for something to eat until I happened upon an open Pizza Shop.  I paid a little more than I normally would for a personal size pizza (17 dollars seems a bit much for a very small veggie pizza), but it was quite delicious.  I ate it on top of Signal Hill overlooking that magnificent view of St. John's.  I stayed there until that magnificent view went from a golden, sun-soaked downtown skyline to one drenched in darkness and street lights.  Both equally magnificent in their own way. 

A Long Overdue Return to The Rock

It seems like it was only yesterday that I boarded the ferry to Newfoundland and spent a week visiting old friends and driving around in that pretty blue mustang convertible the rental company so generously allowed me to drive.  It only recently hit me that that trip was actually five years ago.  I always told myself that after I moved away from Newfoundland, I would go back for a visit at least once every two years.  I guess I lost track of time.

Upon realizing that I broke my own promise to myself, I decided that I would return to The Rock in 2018.  After ironing out some issues (such as when the best time to go would be in relation to work/life/weather and what to do with my big sooky-baby of a cat who doesn't like his mom taking vacations), I came to the conclusion that the best time to go would be the first week in June.  This is usually the best time to see the massive icebergs that make an appearance every spring. 

The only problem with the first week of June was the ferry that I usually take from North Sydney to Argentia wasn't due to start running until late June.  The other ferry from Port aux Basques was running but I would have to drive 12 hours across the island to St. John's and there are no rental car places in the little village.  So I flew, something I only did once in all my years traveling back and forth between the two provinces.  I was disappointed about this.  As much as I like to complain about the ferry service between Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, I also have fond memories of crossing the gulf.  The people I met, the stories I heard, the storms, the delays the memories made (good and bad and funny now) on those crossings are something I hold dear to my heart.  I've always had a love/hate relationship with Marine Atlantic and those sometimes rough crossings that saw me so seasick that, at times, I was unable to walk.  Flying meant avoiding all those hateful things about the ferry but also forgoing a traditional part of that journey.

I always book my flights with Westjet when possible and this time, it was possible.  I boarded in Sydney, landed in Halifax and boarded again for the last leg of the trip to St. John's.  Besides a bit of turbulence, the flight was uneventful.  Actually, it was quite good.  On the first leg, I had a row all to myself and on the second leg, I was seated in the very front row (which I think is a higher class of seating on West Jet planes) with tons of leg room.

Because I didn't check any baggage, I walked off the plane and marched straight to the budget rental car kiosk to pick up my rental.  It didn't take long to sign the paperwork and get the keys to my small economy car.  I arrived at the rental parking area to discover that my small economy car was actually a giant, white Dodge Grand Caravan.  A gas guzzler.  I sat in it for a few minutes contemplating what to do.  After imagining myself trying to maneuver that thing through the steep, narrow streets of St. John's and having to stop every hour to fill it up with gas, I decided to make my way back to the desk in search of the car I booked.  It took some convincing.  My argument of having booked and confirmed an economy car sent the booking agent in search of something that she first said wouldn't be available until the next morning.  I stood my ground and told her that was not acceptable.  Within thirty seconds, a smaller (but still slightly gas guzzling) Chevy Impala was suddenly available.  I think she sensed a confrontation brewing and just gave in.  I will say though, it was a very nice car.

If you have ever driven around the city of St. John's, you know it's not the easiest city to get around.  Lots of narrow, one-way streets and roundabouts that cause you to be hopelessly lost if you miss your turn-off.  Missing a turn-off usually means going around in circles and getting more lost while you try to find where you are supposed to be.  The new roundabout that I hit immediately upon leaving the airport did just that to me.  I eventually spotted some familiar landmarks and made my way downtown to find some food and coffee.  I settled on a bagel with cream cheese and small coffee at the Tim Horton's on Harvey Road just around the corner from my old apartment.  I noticed the landlord is finally doing repairs on the deathtrap of an outdoor staircase leading up to that apartment.  Only took him 15 years.  I drove to Topsail Beach, which was one of my favourite places to go when I lived in St. John's.  I ended up driving further than that while I enjoyed my coffee and tested the Impala.  By the time I returned to the city, I needed to stretch my legs so I drove down to Quidi Vidi Lake and walked around it just like I did every morning in years past.

I moved away from the city in 2011 and have taken up residence in a quieter, smaller, more remote area with little traffic.  Traffic moves quite slow and no one is in a hurry to get anywhere.  During my travels that day, I realized that I've become used to a slower pace of life as cars passed me with horns blaring and middle fingers flying.  I was consistently doing between 10 and 20 km's over the limit while cars blew by me.  Not a cop in site.  Doing 30 over the limit back home would net me a stunting fine of about 2400 bucks.  In St. John's, doing 30 or 40 over the limit on city streets is considered slow.

By the time I reached my friend's house where I would be staying the next few nights, I was exhausted.  After catching up after five years apart and watching some TV, we both turned in for the night.  Him to prepare for work the next day, me to prepare for more exploring and visiting old haunts.

I awoke early and headed out to do much of the same I did the day before.  I visited all of my old favourite places.  I went for my morning walk and than grabbed my morning coffee and drank it at one of my favourite places, Cuckold's Cove near Quidi Vidi Village.  Portugal Cove, Middle Cove, Torbay, Flat Rock, Fort Amherst, Cape Spear and Petty Harbour were among my stops over those 3 days.  One evening, just before sunset, I made the last minute decision to hike partially around Signal Hill and I was glad I did.  It was cool but just right for a refreshing hike.  I ventured downtown to Water St. and Duckworth and checked out another one of my old neighborhoods.  Surprisingly, not much changed in this area of the city.  It's the old area, the area with the colorful row houses you see on postcards and tourism commercials.  I love that neighborhood and I'm happy to see that it never really changes. 

Summer so far....

About a month ago to the day, I was wondering if we would even get a summer here on the East Coast of Canada.  Into the first week of July, it was still cold, foggy, rainy and even snowy in higher elevations.  Now?  Well, let's just say things changed completely around and we have been in the midst of a major heat wave.  In fact, I just heard today, that we basically shattered all weather-related records for highest temperature and longest stretch of extreme temperatures.  The temperature today was 30 degrees Celsius and 39 with the humidity - that is almost unheard of in this part of the world and it's been like this for weeks now!  I'm quite sensitive to the sun (not so much the heat and humidity as long as I'm out of the sun) so I've been staying indoors a lot more than I usually would.  My walking/biking workouts take place much earlier in the morning before the heat peaks and when I am not hunkered down in my cool-ish apartment, I am at Dominion Beach swimming and sipping on a cold beer in the shade.

All in all, summer has been going great for me.  While everyone else complains about the heat, I make the most of it.  I recently acquired a new toy - a canon DSLR camera with interchangeable lenses and all that fun stuff so I've been busy trying to master it.  I did a lot of the usual summer things too.  I ventured out to Rendell's Farm in Bras d'Or and picked some strawberries so I could skimp on groceries, save some money and eat nothing but strawberry shortcakes for two weeks.  I also spent a week in Newfoundland and the Canada Day long weekend in Margaree with fireworks, beaches and hiking.  Of course, Canada Day itself was spent at the Fortress of Louisbourg as it has been for the last 6 or 7 years.  I've been on a few hikes in the Framboise area too. Last weekend, I spent the day roaming the Cheticamp/Margaree/Inverness area beach-hopping, swimming and getting to know my camera better. Ive also been following a family of endangered piping plovers at the beach near my house.  They are flying now but I first spotted them only hours after they hatched. 

As for the final leg of summer?  Hoping to get some kayaking and camping in before the cold weather returns.  Hiking can wait until the fall and swimming will take its place until than.  I hope you all are enjoying summer (or winter depending on where in the world you are I suppose!) and please stay tuned for more posts about my adventures around Cape Breton and hopefully Alberta if I get to go there as planned later in the fall.

My Cape Breton Bucket List

I've noticed that some of my fellow Cape Breton bloggers recently came out with some Cape Breton Island bucket lists.  Years ago, when I was young and naive and took what I had in my backyard for granted, I would never have thought of creating a Cape Breton Bucket List.  My bucket list was  made up of exotic places far, far away.  Now Cape Breton is considered one of those exotic places and people from all over have added it to their bucket lists.  Imagine.  That little island tucked away at the far end of the continent where I had my quiet upbringing as a top world attraction!   This little gem has more to offer than any other place I can think of and the world is starting to catch on.  2016 was a record-breaking tourist season for the island and 2017 is shaping out to be much of the same.  So here is my list of must-see places in Cape Breton for those of you who are planning to visit or you locals who need some inspiration on new things to see and do this summer.  I consider myself an expert on all things Cape Breton so perhaps this can be your go-to list of things you must do in Cape Breton or at least inspiration to get out there and explore this beautiful little island.  Here is my list of favourite beaches, restaurants, trails, attractions and experiences around my fair isle.

The Skyline Trail
If you can only do one hiking trail on your entire trip to Cape Breton, let it be the Skyline Trail.  I'm not saying this is the best trail on the island because there are many great trails that aren't listed in the guidebooks and are not well-known to many people.  What I am saying is this trail is one of the best and that is because it incorporates everything one could want in a hike.  Scenery, wildlife and easy terrain that almost anyone can hike.  I've seen moose nearly every time I've hiked this trail and I've hiked it a lot.  The views at the end of the trail are spectacular.  I know that sounds cliche but you gotta believe me...This is where the mountains literally meet the sea and sometimes, as an added bonus, bald eagles are soaring above and whales can be seen close to the shore below.

Whale Cove Beach
Not only is Whale Cove, in my opinion, one of Cape Breton's nicest beaches, it is also home to one of my favourite spots on the island.  First, let me tell you about the beach itself.  Soft, light sand. Clear, usually calm, relatively shallow waters mostly free of rocks, seaweed and other debris.  It's not a long beach but it's rarely crowded.  Mid-way down the beach, there is a walking trail that lead to the top of a hill.  At the top of this hill is a big field on top of a high cliff with some of the best views around.

Coastal Restaurant
Featured on the TV show You Gotta Eat Here a few years back, Coastal Restaurant is one of my favourite restaurants on the Island and has been since I can remember.  They serve great food with a wide variety of items to choose from (even vegetarians can find many things to eat!  I know because I am one!) and the service is friendly and fast.  The place has a nice atmosphere too and you can enjoy your meal while also enjoying some live, local talent on certain nights of the week.

Inverness Beach at Sunset
Not that Inverness Beach is not Fabulous all the time...it's just at it's most spectacular when the sun is disappearing over the horizon.  The west coast of Cape Breton is known for it's beautiful sunsets.  Combine one of these sunsets with the beautiful, long, sandy beach in Inverness and you get a summer evening that is second to none.  I've been to the Caribbean many times and yes they have nice sunsets but the ones at Inverness Beach even beat them.  

MaryAnne Falls
I love all waterfalls but Maryanne Falls near Ingonish are my favourite.  Not only are they a pretty sight, there are two beautiful pools at the bottom of each falls that are deep enough to jump into from the nearby rocks and the water is clean and refreshing for swimming.  I also love to walk along the river and the little trail that goes above the falls to get a beautiful view of the entire area. 

Kidston Island
From the boardwalk in Baddeck, I often seen people roaming this little island and wondered how they got there.  I recently discovered that there is a little shuttle boat run by The Baddeck Lion's Club that takes passengers back and forth from the wharfs in Baddeck to the island.  I went one day last year and finally got to see what I was missing.  Strangely enough, I think I was the only one of the island at that time so I felt like a real castaway.  A little building with bathrooms and picnic tables stands near the shore and some signs guided me to a walking trail.  I walked all around the little island and went right up to the iconic lighthouse and than sat on the beach for a couple of hours with a book.  Now I know where to go if I want to escape the crowds in Baddeck!

Sqeaker's Hole
Although this is a marked trail at Black Brook Beach in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park  I rarely see many people hiking there...and I don't know why!  I love this trail.  It's not very long, it's fairly easy and there are several different ways to go that all bring you somewhere different.  One trail takes you to the little waterfalls above the beach (and yes you can wade into the little pool at the bottom of the falls too!), another trail takes you to the bottom of Squeaker's Hole and another one takes you to the top where there are beautiful ocean views and tons of great spots to sit on the rocks and relax and enjoy the beautiful ocean views.  

Ferguson Beach
I'm a little iffy about sharing this one because not many people know about it and I kinda want to keep it all to myself!  Chances are if you go looking for it, you won't find it anyway as it is not well-marked and the road is not for the faint at heart.  If you like remote beaches where you can walk for miles and not see a soul for days than than perhaps the benefits outweigh the risks.  Once there, you can walk to the left or right on the beach or on the trail above the beach in either direction.  If you are the adventurous type, you can keep going and going and going and when you reach a river or stream, you may just want to find a way across so you can see what's around the next bend.  The last time I was there, I saw a herd of deer in a field and seals are regular visitors.

The Carrot Cake at the Bean Barn Cafe
The Bean Barn Cafe in Ingonish is always the first and last stop of the day for me whenever I am in Ingonish.  Before anything else, I grab a coffee to go and head over to Ingonish Beach to drink it while enjoy my favourite view on the island - Cape Smokey Mountain.  When I make the last stop of the day, it is to sit inside the cozy little cafe with my laptop to catch up on emails and enjoy some more coffee with a giant piece of their delicious, homemade carrot cake.  It is, in my opinion and the opinion of many others I introduced this cake to, the best carrot cake on the island...and I've eaten carrot cake in many places.

North River Falls
By far one of my most memorable hikes to date.  The trail is long (about 19 km's return), rugged and not well-maintained at times.  But it's all worth it when you reach the falls which are the tallest in Nova Scotia.  Because the trail is so long and rugged, the odds that someone else will be there at the same time as you are slim so you will most likely have the falls all to yourself!

Glace Bay Miner's Museum
This is one of the most interesting, interactive museums in Cape Breton in my opinion.  Not only do you get to see a number of exhibits outlining the history and culture of coal mining on the island (the biggest industry at one time), you even get to tour a real mine and actually go underground with a retired miner and hear both funny and heartbreaking stories from years gone by,  If you are lucky, you may even be there on one of the days when the famed Men of Deeps are practicing for one of their upcoming concerts which take place at the museum throughout the summer and fall.

Celtic Colours International Festival
Cape Breton's top music and cultural festival but also one of Canada's top festivals.  People from all over the world travel to the island each fall to enjoy world-class entertainment that just happens to coincide with another popular fall event in Cape Breton...colourful fall foliage.  This is one of my favorite times of the year and I make sure to leave my schedule free for the entire duration of the festival so I can take in as many events as possible. While the festival is mostly known for it's concerts featuring local and international talent, the festival also hosts art exhibits, guided hikes, storytelling events, community meals and other cultural events all over the island.

The Yellow Cello Cafe
This little cafe/restaurant in Baddeck is another favourite of mine.  My mother and I started going there for dinner on summer weekends when I was still in high school.  I still go there every chance I get and it's one of the places I always take visitors who are visiting from away.  The menu is extensive, the service is friendly, the atmosphere is lively (there is often live music during the evening mealtime) and the food is delicious and plentiful.

Black Brook Beach
Another one of my favourite beaches in the Ingonish area of Cape Breton.   Most of the time, I like to just relax on the beach and have a nice relaxing swim in calm waters but sometimes, I like waves too.  Some of the best waves around are at Black Brook and you can also enjoy hiking trails, a waterfall, a freshwater lake and a picnic area nearby

The Wraps at Downtown Nutrition
Downtown Nutrition has been around for a while but I only recently discovered it.  I was looking for somewhere to get a good veggie wrap in Cape Breton and a friend suggested I try the ones at Downtown Nutrition and they are, in my opinion, the best wraps around.  My favourite is the Mediterranean Wrap.

Hiking around Freshwater Lake and/or Warren Lake at Night
Yes I am mentioning two hikes in one paragraph.  I've done both of these hikes at night but hiking around either one of these lakes at night (especially during a full moon!) is quite the experience.  For one, they are both located in a national park, The Cape Breton Highlands.  If you've ever had the opportunity to spend time in a national park, you know how wild, quiet, pristine and untouched the area is.  Imagine hiking around a beautiful lake in a place where there is no traffic, hardly any people, no buildings and no noise except the nearby call of a loon or howl of a coyote.  Just make sure you take someone with you or at least have a stick or bear spray as the critters (the type that may eat you if they are hungry) tend to come out at night.

The Fortress of Louisbourg
 I visit the Fortress at least once a year.  Why?  Because I love to take a trip back to the 18th century every once and a while.  With an 18th century-inspired restaurant and bakery on-site, "residents" in period costumes acting out the roles they would have had over 200 years ago and grounds that were the site of historic battles, there's no better place in North America to get a true feeling of what life was like under those conditions.

Chimney Corner Beach
A recent find but a good one.  Chimney Corner Beach is currently my favourite beach for ocean swimming.  Never over-crowded, nice scenery, rarely any jelly fish, little seaweed, sandy, warm and hardly any rocks...what more could you want in a beach.

Strolling the streets of Baddeck in the evening
I love Baddeck at all times of the day but it's the evening I love most.  The water is at it's calmest, the main street the main street is at it's liveliest, live music can be heard coming from the yacht club near the wharves and the little boardwalk along the shores of the Bras d'Or Lakes is the perfect place to sit and watch the boats coming and going on warm summer evenings. 

Wabo's Pizza Cheticamp
Wabo's doesn't only sell pizza.  A full menu of salads, pastas and pretty much everything you can imagine is available at the restaurant at the back of the property.  However, it's not just the main courses that draw me in. Wabo's is, as far as I know, one of the only places around that sells deep fried cheesecake...and yes that's as delicious as it sounds.  Bonus: The restaurant is located right on the boardwalk which is a great place to watch the sunset after dinner.

Watch the Sun Set/Moon Rise at Ingonish Beach
In my opinion, the best place on Cape Breton Island to watch the sun set and moon rise within the same hour is the lifeguard chair at Ingonish Beach.  That is if no one else claimed it first.  However, anywhere on Ingonish Beach is a great place to sit and watch the night sky.

Cape Clear
I first heard about Cape Clear about ten years ago but wasn't able to find out any information about it because, until recently, it was a well-guarded secret for the few who did know about it.  In recent years, it has gained popularity and now pretty much everyone on the island has at least an idea where it is.  My dad and I went searching for it about 5 years ago and found it after quite a few days of looking.  Was it worth the effort.  You bet it was.   Access is via The Highland Road at Hunter's Mountain near Margaree.  The scenery, which includes an aerial view of the northeast Margaree River Valley, is spectacular.  Bonus: you will likely be the only person there when you arrive.  It's just that remote.

Le Gabriel Restaurant
Delicious food, fantastic service, lively atmosphere and a taste of true Acadian cuisine....expect all this and more (such as live entertainment during certain evenings of the week) when you visit Le Gabriel in Cheticamp.  Look for the lighthouse in the middle of town.

Camping at Broad Cove Campground
This is my favorite campground on the island.  It's a perfect mix of remote isolation and modern comforts.  Heavily forested with lots of wildlife and a beach nearby makes it feel like you are in the middle of nowhere (which, really you are) and full bathrooms with showers and flush toilets mean you are not completely roughing it.  The campground is huge with plenty of trails and wood roads to walk or bike, there is an outdoor theatre, playground, fire pits and a beach path...and speaking of the beach.  Did I mention you will fall asleep to the sound of waves crashing ashore every night?

Hike the Skyline Trail at Sunset
Actually, hike the Skyline trail anytime...but if you want to get the absolute most out of a hike on one of Eastern Canada's top hiking trails, it's best to start the hike about an hour and a half before sunset so you can watch it from the top of the trail where the scenery is.  The added bonus of doing the trail at this time is you are more likely to see wildlife at dusk than any other time of day. 

North River Kayak
Whether you have ever kayaked before or not, I highly recommend you take an excursion with North River Kayak.  There are short trips of only a few hours and longer ones for more seasoned kayakers. Lessons and safety instructions are provided.  I never kayaked before when I took my first excursion with this company and I did fine.  It is really almost impossible to tip a kayak!  Waterfalls, beaches, bald eagles and other seabirds are just some of the things you can expect to see during a relaxing paddle in St. Anne's Bay.  

The Bayside Canteen
This place has been around forever and serves everything including some of the best ice cream around.  I highly recommend the onion rings and the banana splits and I recommend you take your food and park around back of the building to enjoy the beautiful view on Lingan Bay or park directly across the street in the little park to get an equally nice view.

Ice Cream at the Lighthouse in Neil's Harbour
A tradition when taking a trip around the Cabot Trail is to stop and get ice cream at the old lighthouse-turned-ice-cream-parlour in Neil's Harbour.  Many flavors, huge scoops, friendly service and a fantastic view!

Swimming at Marble Mountain
I only found this place along the Bras d'Or Lakes late last summer but it is now one of my favourite freshwater swimming holes.  Crystal clear, calm, refreshing waters with beautiful scenery all around make this a great place to spend an afternoon or evening.

The Fairy Hole/Glooscap Caves
A longish drive and a slightly challenging hike are well-worth the time and effort it takes to reach these remote caves.  Best to go at low tide if you want to get inside the area where the caves are.  You know you are close when you reach the little beach.  The water is a little rough at times but it's only a short swim to the opening in the rocks that takes you to a beautiful swimming hole and the opening to the caves.

A Guide to Cape Breton Island

Overview

Just a little bit east off the Coast of mainland Nova Scotia in eastern Canada is the tiny island of Cape Breton. While the island belongs to the province of Nova Scotia and is a part of Canada, it is nothing like any other place in the country…or in the world for that matter. It is hard to know where to begin in telling you what the island has to offer because there is so much. The culture, the history, the scenery, the beaches, the hiking, the food, the nightlife! One can travel to Cape Breton Island and enjoy a taste of all of these things in just one day if they wanted to. Ideally, a good solid week is usually enough to get a good taste of the island. Longer is even better. And you will want to stay longer because the island has that effect on people; they come, they fall in love with the peaceful landscapes, the isolated beaches, the down-to-earth people and the lively nightlife. They leave with a heavy heart. Most come back again and again, some come back and never leave.

Best Places to Visit in Cape Breton

Sydney
Locally known as Cape Breton Island’s unofficial capital, the city of Sydney may be small (with only about 30,000 people) but there is much to see and do. The Sydney Boardwalk is a great place to start your visit. This boardwalk runs along a section of the harbour downtown and in the warmer months, buskers gather to show off their various talents to the crowds that gather on warm summer nights. It’s a great place to watch the boats coming and going, to watch a starry night sky or enjoy a plate of Fuzzy’s Fries or an ice cream float or some homemade fudge from the Cape Breton Fudge Co located nearby. A few small museums, like Cossitt House and St. Patrick’s Museum, are located in the downtown area and these are great places to learn more about the history. Come nightfall, one can learn about the darker side of the local history by taking the guided Ghosts and Legends of Historic Sydney walking tour. The city is also home to many restaurants (with both ethnic and local fare), cafes, bars, retail shops and a casino.

Glace Bay
Glace Bay is a mere twenty-minute drive from downtown Sydney and just embarking on a tour of the Miner’s Museum makes the trip worth while. Upon entering the museum, visitors can see a number of exhibits that depict the life of the average coal miner from the time coal started to be mined in the area until the industry ceased to exist in 2001. The next step in a visit to the museum sees visitors donning a cape and hard hat in preparation to enter a real coal mine complete with all the fixings that a miner would see during a typical shift. The guide, a retired coal miner himself, has lots of stories to tell about the camaraderie that developed between miners and the dangers that awaited them around every turn. I highly recommend taking a tour of the museum on a day when the famous Men of the Deeps hold one of concerts in the auditorium. This choir made up of retired coal miners put on a spectacular show that can bring grown men to tears!

Mira
The name Mira may sound familiar to you and that is probably because you’ve heard about it in the song “Song for the Mira” written by Allister MacGillivray and performed by numerous artists over the years. Mira is not far from the urban center of Sydney but the peaceful and quiet surroundings make it seem like you are in the middle of nowhere. One can spend a perfect summer day walking sandy Mira Gut Beach, sailing down the Mira River or relaxing on the banks of the river at Mira Provincial Park. Two Rivers Wildlife Park is also located in the area and visitors can see many of the wild animal species – mountain lion, coyote, wolf, otters, moose and reindeer - that make the park their home.

Framboise and Area
This is one of the most remote areas of the island. Deep woods, long sandy beaches, desolate coastline and a sparse population make this an ideal place to get away and admire nature without any distractions. There are a few historical museums and provincial parks in and around the town of St. Peter’s but, for the most part, you will be surrounded by pure wilderness. Morrison’s Beach is a great place to spend an evening roasting marshmallows over a fire and watching the night sky and if you like to fish, some of the best fishing holes are located in the area.

Louisbourg
If you only have the choice of visiting a couple of places on Cape Breton Island, be sure to include Louisbourg in your itinerary. The town’s claim to fame is the reconstructed 18th century French fortress that stands on the edge of the town. When it was originally constructed, it was much bigger than what is there today but The Fortress of Louisbourg was once a bustling fortified town until the English attached and seized it for good in the mid 1700’s. Today, visitors can walk through the fortress and experience what it was like to live in those times. Some original artifacts are on display throughout the grounds and guides are dressed in period costume. Even the restaurant serves meals that would have been typical of meals served in the 18th century. After spending a morning or afternoon at the Fortress, relax and take a cool dip at Kennington Cove Beach or have a picnic near the old lighthouse at the other end of town.

Baddeck
There is so much to say about Baddeck, I don’t know where to begin! First of all, the town itself is right in the middle of the island and makes for the perfect central destination from which to embark on various adventures. Everything on the island is about an hour’s drive or less away from Baddeck. Baddeck is a resort town popular with movie stars (Madonna, Sylvester Stalone, Sean Connery just to name a few) and it is the world-class sailing on the Bras d’Or Lakes, the fine dining restaurants and the quiet and relaxing nature of the town that draws them and many visitors each year to the town. However, you do not need to be a famous movie star to enjoy (and afford) all that Baddeck has to offer. The Yellow Cello offers delicious and affordable meals and snacks in a cozy café that hosts live entertainment. A five-minute boat ride takes visitors across a small bay to Kidston Island where there is a beach, a lighthouse and some walking trails. For a mere twenty-five bucks, one can enjoy a sail on the Bras D’or lakes onboard the beautiful schooner The Amoeba and see bald eagles and Alexander Graham Bell’s stately mansion, Beinn Bhreagh. Speaking of Alexander Graham Bell, did you know that this famous inventor of the telephone and many other inventions once lived and worked in Baddeck. It’s true and visitors can see his work and learn all about his life at the Alexander Graham Bell Museum.

Ingonish
Ingonish is another must-see on any visit to Cape Breton Island. The town is at the opening of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and is along the famous Cabot Trail. While in Ingonish, visitors can enjoy a number of long, sandy beaches including Ingonish Beach, North Bay Beach and Black Brook. A number of walking trails are located in the area. Franey Mountain, Warren Lake, Broad Cove Mountain, Middle Head and Sqeaker’s Hole are just of few of those trails. Maryanne Falls is a great place to admire two waterfalls and take a swim in one of the freshwater pools below and freshwater swimming is also available at Warren Lake. Because Ingonish is a hub along the Cabot Trail, there are a number of restaurants, gift shops and places to stay such as the Keltic Lodge Resort and Spa which is one of the most famous and nicest resorts on the entire island. The Highland Links Golf Course has been rated as one of the top ten golf courses in North America. When you are ready to move along the Cabot Trail towards the next major hub on that route, you will pass through some of the most beautiful scenery in all of Canada. In fact, the Cabot Trail, with its rolling hills, rocky coastline, and deep valleys that meet the sea, has been voted one of the most scenic drives in North America. Along this route, some can’t miss stops include Gampo Abbey Monastery and The Skyline Trail which is said to be one of the most scenic walking trails in all of Nova Scotia. A number of other hiking trails, picnic parks, beaches, gift shops and waterfalls are also located on this 100-kilometer-long stretch of scenic highway.

Cheticamp
The Cape Breton Highlands National Park ends where Cheticamp begins but the beauty of the Cabot Trail continues on through the town and beyond. This small French/Acadian fishing village with its colorful houses, well-manicured lawns and rocky coastline sits at the foothills of the surrounding mountains. The town, although small, is a major hub in the area. Grocery stores, retail shops, coffee shops, bars, hotels and a number of restaurants are scattered about. Several museums, a world-renowned golf course and a scenic boardwalk are all located in the village. Camping is available at the opening of the Highlands Park and near the sandy beach at Plage St. Pierre. Several hiking trails, including La Buttereau, are located near the entrance to the town going into the national park and some of the most beautiful sunsets on the island are seen from the look-offs and beaches in that area too. Heading west on the Cabot Trail the town of Cheticamp fades away and the scenery gives way to rolling meadows on one side and the raging sea on the other. At the bridge at Margaree Harbour, you can go one of two ways but they both end up in the same place. The road that goes towards Chimney Corner is a windy one along the coast. Whale Cove Beach, with its warm waters and sandy bottom is a great place to take a nice dip on a hot day. The other route runs through a forested area with old homes and fields. No matter which way you go, you eventually end up in the town of Inverness.

Inverness
Inverness is mostly known for its long, sandy beach that runs from one end of the town to the other. A boardwalk and beachside café welcome visitors at one end and the other end is a quiet, windswept, lonely stretch of Atlantic coastline with cute little cabins perched atop the dunes. The town itself is lined with restaurants, shops and cafes and a newly built golf course has been added to the island’s list of world-class courses that are said to be among the best in North America. Inverness was once a mining town and visitors can learn more about this part of the town’s history by visiting the Inverness Miner’s Museum.

Hotels in Cape Breton Island

Where to Eat in Cape Breton
When it comes to places to have a great meal in Cape Breton, the choices are endless. There are many different types of restaurants all over the island from small take-out canteens to fine dining. Coastal Waters in Ingonish offers a wide range of items. The plates are big, the prices won’t break the bank and the staff is friendly and accommodating. Le Gabrielle in Cheticamp is a unique restaurant inside a lighthouse-inspired building that offers a wide range of local favorites including fresh seafood, pasta dishes, wraps and many more. The Chowder House in Neil’s Harbour is home to some of the Island’s best seafood dishes and the restaurant overlooks the scenic rocky coastline that surrounds the small fishing village. The Red Shoe Pub in Mabou is one of the most famous pubs/restaurants in Cape Breton for a number of reasons including the fact that it is owned by some of the members of the most famous musical families on the island, The Rankins. Patrons are often graced by performances by some of the most accomplished musicians from Cape Breton. Various seafood dishes, fresh salads and baked goods are just some of the delicious down-home items that can be found on the menu. Amedeos in downtown Sydney specializes in authentic homemade Italian Cuisine served in a stylish and comfortable bistro. Governor’s is located on the Sydney Waterfront and serves up a variety of local favorites and patrons can enjoy live entertainment during their meal on many nights during the week.

How to Stay Safe in Cape Breton
Cape Breton is not a dangerous place to travel to by any means. However, just like you are at home or anywhere that you travel, its important to always be familiar with your surroundings and be aware of potential dangers that could occur. Keep an eye on your belongings and lock your car when you are away from it. During the late summer, storms sometimes creep up the coast and cause high sea levels and large waves so it is very important that you stay away from the coastline during these storms. In the highlands, in particular, bear and coyote encounters are common but rarely do these animals interact with humans. If you do cross the path of one of these wild animals, try to make a large beeline around them, scream or make loud noises if approached and make sure to always have a stick or bear spray with you when you are hiking or camping in the backcountry. Moose and deer often wander onto the highways in many areas of the island. Reducing your speed and keeping a sharp eye on the road and ditches in these areas are good practices to ensure you do not hit one of these animals.

How to Save Money in Cape Breton
While it may cost a bit to get to Cape Breton depending on where you are traveling from, generally, it is quite cheap to travel around the island once you are there. If you want to save money on food, try eating at one of the great diner’s that offer delicious food at cheap prices like Mike’s Lunch in Glace Bay or Fitzgerald’s near the Seal Island Bridge. There is a hostel located in Pleasant Bay that offers very cheap accommodations and camping is an option during the summer months if you want to save money on accommodations.

Finally, Don’t leave Cape Breton without attending a Ceilidh, which is a traditional Celtic gathering with fiddles, dancing and singing. The biggest Ceilidh that is held every year in October is the world-renowned Celtic Colors Festival which features traditional Celtic artists from all over the world who converge on the island for ten days of non-stop music and cultural events in various venues all over Cape Breton. If you travel to Cape Breton during this time of year, be sure to take a drive around the Cabot Trail because the area is known for its beautiful fall foliage.

Have You Ever Found Yourself in the Path of a Hurricane?

The Atlantic hurricane season is from June 1 through November 30 and the last few years were quite active with many powerful storms forming and sending bad weather to the east coast of Canada. Until recently, it was rare for full-fledge tropical storms or category 1 or 2 hurricanes to hit Nova Scotia and Newfoundland but warming ocean temperatures means storms are getting more powerful and they tend to gain strength rather than loose steam like they used to when they barreled up the coast. Fortunately, the 2013 hurricane season has not produced many storms and none of the ones that have formed have had any dramatic effect on eastern Canada…yet.

September 20th, 2010 started out much like any other day but word started to spread quickly that a strong category 4 hurricane that had formed earlier that week was headed straight for Newfoundland and was going to hit dead on as a tropical storm. Later that day, the warnings went up and the city got busy preparing for the worse; the storm had picked up strength and was headed straight for Newfoundland as a Category 1 hurricane. I remained unconcerned as many thought the storm would most likely head out to sea like all the rest. But the next morning when I stepped outside and was greeted with an eerie calm and a purplish tint to the sky like none I had ever seen before, I knew we were in for a wild ride. September 21st, 2010, a day I will never forget. That was the day hurricane Igor hit Newfoundland.

Until the very last minute, I admit, I didn’t take the warnings seriously. Big storms have hit Newfoundland before. The year I moved to St. John’s the city experienced a record-breaking winter that saw 21 feet of snow fall over 5 months and many other blizzards and tropical storms had hit in the years following so I was used to harsh weather. However, when the storm was upgraded from tropical storm to Category 1 hurricane, I started to worry a little. The forecast for that day and into the night was severe; 140 km winds, 200 mm of rain and meter-high storm surges. I charged my phone, found some extra batteries, flashlights and candles, made sure I had some non-perishable food items at the ready and prepared for the worse. My apartment was located on the corner of Bond and Prescott right downtown, close to the harbor and in what came to be known by residents on that corner as a wind tunnel. During winter storms, it seemed that that particular corner gathered a lot of snow and experienced very heavy winds and I assumed this storm would be no different.

I can’t remember now what time it was when the weather started to pick up but I think it was somewhere around late-morning to mid-afternoon. To me it seemed like any other miserable windy, rainy day in St. John’s. My internet remained connected and although the power did flicker a few times, it did not go out. I continued with my daily tasks around the apartment, taking a break to check on the situation outside from time to time. It didn’t seem windy where I was located but I could see some debris blowing around on the street below and the occasional person struggling to walk up the hill. Other than that, it still just seemed like any other stormy day in Newfoundland. When darkness fell, I noticed that some people had lost their power. As the evening went on, more and more lights went out until my house and the other three houses on my corner were the only ones who still had power. Still, I was not convinced that this was a bad storm. St. John’s experiences power outages all the time during storms and I was prepared for mine to go too. I spoke with my family back in Nova Scotia who were concerned about the storm that was said to be battering us in St. John’s and assured them that all was well, the storm was obviously not as bad as everyone was saying it was. At least not from my point of view. It wasn’t until I left home that evening to join a friend for a drive around the city that I saw the real destruction that had been occurring while I thought the storm had mostly gone out to sea.

Igor hit Newfoundland as a strong category 1 hurricane after many thought it would just brush the island and went down in history as one of the most powerful storms ever to hit the island. The devastation was tremendous. While I sat in my protective bubble on the corner of Bond and Prescott, many parts of the island, including the capital city were in a state of emergency. To this day, I don’t know why my particular corner remained untouched when just a few hundred meters away from my doorstep, century-old trees were toppled, streets were flooded and impassable and homes and cars were damaged. As my friend and I drove those dark, deserted streets that night, announcers on every radio station were warning people to stay home. Shops were in darkness, police and first responders were everywhere, debris was scattered across yards and roads and traffic lights were not working, making every intersection in the city dangerous to cross. Sirens could be heard non-stop. The city was in total chaos.

My power never did go out. It remained on the entire time while some of my neighbors and friends from all over the city were without power for almost a week. Some restaurants managed to open with the help of generators but with limited services and most shops remained closed for days. Many people I know sustained major damage to their homes and properties. Newfoundlanders are tough and are used to bad storms. I lived in St. John’s for ten years and had seen blizzards like none I had ever witnessed back home in Nova Scotia but the city never shut down and the army never had to be called until Igor hit.

What was ironic about the timing of this storm was it was only mere weeks from the time I planned to move from the province. I had lost my job and planned to start over again in Nova Scotia or wherever any future employment brought me. My time in Newfoundland certainly did end with a bang. The remnants of Igor stuck around right until it was time for me to leave for good. When it was all said and done, one man had lost his life when his driveway collapsed and he was swept to sea and countless others were left with homes that were in ruins. Some communities were cut off from the outside world for weeks due to washed out bridges and homeowners filed for more than 65 million dollars in damages within the first two weeks after the storm hit.

Just a little over three years later, some communities are still trying to pick up the pieces left shattered in Igor’s wake but, in true Newfoundland style, the people remained strong, communities came together and no one was left to pick up the pieces of their shattered lives alone. Homes may have been broken, cars may have been swept away in floods, belongings lost in a sea of debris…but the spirit of the people remained intact like it always has and always will. While looting and chaos seems to be common when a natural disaster of this magnitude takes place in other larger cities on the mainland, I heard of no such things going on in the days following Igor. What I witnessed was people coming together to help their fellow neighbors, all the while, keeping that positive and humorous demeanor that Newfoundlanders are known for. I was not born in Newfoundland and my Newfoundland friends tease me about never being able to become a true Newfoundlander because I was born on the mainland but witnessing how the people came together after such a devastating event made me proud to have been able to call The Rock my home for 11 years.

Long Weekend Road Trip to Nova Scotia's South Shore

I was born and raised in Nova Scotia and, minus the 11 years I spent living in Newfoundland, I have spent most of my life in the province. My family home has always been on Cape Breton Island in the eastern portion of Nova Scotia and although I wandered far and wide over the years and have seen most of Canada and the United States, I am ashamed to admit that travel around my home province has been surprisingly limited. I know every main highway, secondary highway and back road in Cape Breton and I’m pretty sure I know the island better than the back of my own hand but when it comes to the rest of the province on the other side of the Canso Causeway, I can only say I’ve driven through on the Trans Canada Highway to travel somewhere else in Canada or the US, I’ve done some Christmas shopping in Halifax and Truro and I visited Peggy’s Cove and a few other notable landmarks and sites as a child. During the most recent Canadian long weekend, I had the opportunity to see a part of my province that I had never explored before; the south shore as far as Port Mouton near Liverpool.

My sister moved to the southern shore of Nova Scotia after finishing work for the season in northern Cape Breton. A few days before the long weekend approached, I booked a rental car and made the 7-hour drive to Port Mouton. It was a great opportunity to spend some time with my sister but also to travel to a part of the province I had always wanted to see, especially the town of Lunenburg, a renowned UNESCO world heritage site.

Long weekends don’t come often and rarely do I have the time lately to set out and partake in my favorite long weekend activity – a road trip. I set out that Saturday morning with intentions of making it to my sister’s place by nightfall. I would have made good time if I hadn’t stopped so much. Coffee, meals and bathroom breaks lingered a little longer than they should have because when it comes to new scenery and potential photo ops, out comes the camera and before I know it, a half hour or an hour passes. I ventured off onto a few off-ramps that looked promising only to get lost and have to try and make my way back to the highway and continue on with my journey. I still made it to Port Mouton in good time although it was too dark and I was too tired to go out and explore.

I know long weekends are a time to sleep in for many people but I rarely sleep in anytime. I am one of those strange and rare morning persons. When I sleep in past 7:30, I feel like life is passing me by and I am missing something. This is particular true when the opportunity arises to see or do something I don’t get the chance to do every day. Such an opportunity awaited me that first morning on the South Shore and my excitement would not allow me to sleep in past my normal wake-up time of 7:30. I would have been up earlier if it had not been for the long and exhausting drive the day before. I needed a bit of rest to keep me going for another long day of sightseeing. And what a beautiful day it was; normal temperatures for this time of year in Atlantic Canada hover around zero degrees Celsius and it is not rare for there to be a few inches of snow on the ground but this day was exceptional with a cloudless sky, no snow to be seem and temperatures hovering around the 10 degree mark. Perfect weather for hitting the beach! Well, a walk on the beach in Port Mouton before getting on the highway towards our first destination.

Our first stop was Mahone Bay about an hour from Liverpool. I had heard about the town numerous times but the only thing I really recalled about it was the famous picture of the three churches across the bay that seems to be a part of almost every Atlantic Canadian calendar and graces the front of numerous postcards. With its scenic waterfront, colorful storefronts and colonial buildings, it felt like I had stepped back in time. A walk down the main street of the town revealed many boutique shops with numerous hand-made and hard-to-find unique items in the storefront windows but there was no time for shopping that day. I made a mental note to possibly return closer to the holidays to do some Christmas shopping there.

Next, we made our way towards Lunenburg but were distracted by a street sign that led us in the opposite direction. Anyone who has or does live in Nova Scotia or who has ever indulged themselves in the province’s folklore, has heard about Oak Island Nova Scotia and its famous money pit which is reputed to be the site of buried pirate treasure. Many digs have been conducted around the site and although the elusive treasure has not been found as of yet, there are many indications and clues pointing to it being there in the booby-trapped pit that mysteriously floods every time someone gets so far down. So knowing all this history surrounding the area, when I spotted the sign that indicated Oak Island was to the left and Lunenburg was to the right, we both agreed that it was worth the bit of extra time it would take to drive the seven kilometers to Oak Island in hopes of seeing the money pit for ourselves. Unfortunately, the pit currently lies on private property and was gated off to outsiders. We could see the island but we couldn’t drive or walk to it. I don’t really blame the current owner of the land; I can only imagine how many times he or she must have had to endure enthusiastic treasure hunters coming from all over with their digging tools in hopes of finding buried pirate treasure. I would probably stick a sign and a gate up too though there is currently a rumor spreading around the area that another significant search will be conducted in the near future. I don’t know if it is going to be a government-funded dig or independent but there must be a reason why they would try again after so many years. The evidence pointing to there being something there is just too convincing to pass up.

Because Lunenburg was the most anticipated part of this trip for me, we saved the best for last. I had always wanted to go to Lunenburg. The pictures I had seen of brightly colored houses and fishing shacks and the history I had so often read about in locally written maritime history books intrigued me enough to promise myself that someday I would make the drive there and experience it for myself. The drive to the town was scenic with fields and countrified landscapes leading to the coast. We arrived in mid-afternoon and found a parking spot on the colorful waterfront overlooking a bay filled with little boats and a large schooner docked at the wharf. I heard that The Bluenose, the famed schooner that was built in Lunenburg and put the town on the map, might be in town during my visit but I didn’t see it in plain sight. There was a fairly large schooner docked quite a ways down the harbor in what looked like some sort of shipyard area but it was too far away to see it was, in fact, the famous schooner or not.

We walked the narrow streets admiring the old colonial houses painted in bright colors. Popular maritime lure states that many boat owners painted their homes the same color as their boat but I have yet to determine if that is fact or fiction. Either way, both houses and boats in Lunenburg add a colorful character to both the natural and man-made beauty of the quaint little town. In fact, the town reminded me a lot of St. John’s, Newfoundland. Brightly colored buildings lining every street, painted murals of the seafaring history of yesteryear and steep streets leading up the next layer of shops and restaurants just like the “bowl” effect that the downtown area of St. John’s is famous for. We spent a few hours walking around the town, taking pictures, window shopping and admiring the beautiful artifacts and crafts that were for sale and eating some of the best carrot cake I had every had at one of the waterfront cafes. I could live in a town like Lunenburg. A small town with all the amenities of a larger city. It seemed to be bustling when we were there in the afternoon so I can only imagine what it must be like into the evening with many pubs, restaurants, cafes and bars lining every street.

Darkness comes early this time of year and we wanted to be back on the road before dark to make it back to Liverpool to take some sunset pictures and grab something to eat. There was a music festival going on in the area so many venues were jammed packed or had long lineups so we settled on one that didn’t look to be too crowded but was reputed to be one of the best places in the area to eat. Lane's Privateer Inn couldn’t have been a better place for us that night. We were looking for good food, good coffee (good wine for my sister who was not driving), a relaxing atmosphere and friendly service and this place exceeded our expectations. The food was delicious and the portions were just right and, as is often not the case in many places these days, we got exceptional and personalized service from the staff who were happy to make our visit an enjoyable one. It was the perfect end to a great long weekend with my sister but the weekend wasn’t quite done for me at that point; I still had that long drive back to The Cape early the next morning. Don’t get me wrong, I love nothing more than getting behind the wheel and heading out on the highway for a long drive except this one actually had a destination; back home to the start of a new work week…but at least it wasn’t starting on a Monday!