August Long Weekend on the West Coast of Cape Breton

One of the highlights of every summer since I moved home is the long weekend in August which is usually spent in Cap LeMoine, Cape Breton.  

Back when I first started working at the place I still work at to this day, I met a good friend who had a family place on the west coast of the island and I've been in love with the area ever since the first time we went almost 15 years ago.  

The weather always seems to be nice around this time every year and this year was no exception.  The only downfall was the fire and woods ban that meant we couldn't go any hiking or venture into any wooded areas.  No big deal.  Thrift shopping, beach hopping and sunset chasing kept us busy all weekend.

The house we stayed at this year had a huge deck where we could watch sunsets and meteor showers.  We searched for the northern lights but didn't see any this year.  Just sitting out on that deck on those warm, dark nights in the country was enough for me!

We arrived late afternoon the first day and unpacked and grabbed some food in Cheticamp.  I always sleep so well in the country with the summer breeze coming in through the window and the natural sounds lulling me to sleep. 

Mornings are equally nice and that first morning, I got quite the treat when I walked out onto the deck to catch the first morning rays.  A mother deer and her fawn were grazing on the lawn when suddenly the young one got a burst of energy and started running back and forth across the lawn with mom looking on.  And yes, I did catch this on video! 

Later that day, we drove to Inverness to hit the thrift shops after stopping at the new Dancing Goat location for coffee and sweets.  We've been going to the closet for quite a few years and usually find some things but Sew Thrifty was a new one for me.  I was surprised by what I found there.  I'm very petite and have a very hard time finding pants in the right length without having to hem them or roll them up.  I found two beautiful, gently-worn pairs that day!  

After shopping, there was still plenty of daylight left to hit beautiful Inverness Beach.  Now, this part of the trip was a little disappointing.  I'm used to the beach being all sand.  On this day, there was nowhere that was untouched by rocks.  I tried my best to go in the water without hurting my feet but it was impossible.  There must have been a storm in the days before.  I was in for quite a bit and the water was beautiful but the rocks made it hard to get in and out of the water so I eventually gave up and joined my friend on the shore where she was searching for beach glass. 

We didn't stay that evening for sunset because we had a date to meet my sister and her boyfriend in Cheticamp for supper.  We met at Le Gabrielle and found a table in the lively bar area where there was some live music.  As usual, the food was delicious and I got to spend some quality time with my sister who was home at that time visiting from Alberta.  That evening, the drive back to Cap Lemoine was relaxing as the calm water twinkled under the twilight and the stars shone brightly overhead. 

The rest of the weekend was more beaches, sunsets, stargazing and scenic drives.  And then came the worst part - leaving.  But the best part is knowing that this heavenly place is only a two-hour drive away and I can come back anytime! 

 

And Just Like....Summer is Almost Over for Another Year

It's been such a busy summer that I didn't have time to post about any of the wonderful things I've been doing!  I'm never home except to sleep or get ready for work.  Most days, I head out somewhere to do something immediately after work.  I pack a lunch, take it to work with me, store it in the fridge and it's fresh and ready to eat on the way to whatever adventure awaits.  No time wasted here.  Summer is short and I enjoy every moment of it.  That means my laptop is hardly ever turned on.   

It seems like just yesterday I was packing up my car with camping, swimming, hiking and paddling gear.  I finally broke down and bought an action camera to capture all the memories I knew were coming with all the things I had planned and family coming home from Alberta and I swapped my winter clothes and gear for warm weather adventures. And now it's the end of August already.  They say time flies when you're having fun.  I can certainly say that there's plenty of truth to this because I had an incredible summer.  

Summer was interesting in Cape Breton this year as we saw the province implement a very strict fire ban that also banned anyone from entering forested areas to prevent wild fires.  Nova Scotia and the rest of eastern Canada has seen some pretty big fires recently and one here would be devastating in so many ways.  

The extreme heat and dry conditions started early and I almost had to endure the entire summer with no air conditioning in my car!  Fortunately, I was able to get it fixed before I took any long road trips. While it was a bummer to not do any hiking, I found plenty of things to do outside the woods.  Paddleboarding on the Mira, swimming at Dominion, Black Brook and Ingonish beaches, scenic drives around the Cabot Trail and to Main-a-Dieu, roaming the streets and alleys of the Fortress of Louisbourg, hanging out in Iona with the family, riding the gondola at Cape Smokey, sunset walks by the ocean, swimming in my sister's pool, a long weekend in Margaree and Cheticamp, taking in the festivities at Festiville Baddeck, enjoying a visit from my sister who came all the way from Alberta and, of course, watching my little nephew growing up and learning new things. 

Although the calendar might say summer is winding down and signs of it are all around - leaves are starting to change, kids are heading back to school and the lifeguards and are on their final shifts at the beaches - I still have summer-like activities planned for weeks to come!  This weekend, I plan to go camping in the Highlands and I'm hoping for warm enough weather to do some swimming at some of my favourite beaches.  Paddleboarding on the Mira is done for the year but I'm thinking of trying out the dragon boat paddling that's being offered nearby.  When the woods reopens, I hope to get to the top of the gondola at Cape Smokey in Ingonish to do some hiking, kayaking and biking.  In mid-September, I'm taking a road trip to Mahone Bay.  

The only thing missing this summer and the one I will miss the most if it doesn't happen is my annual camping trip in Framboise with Dad.  Because of the fire ban, we were unable to go.  If it lifts very soon, we might get a late-summer trip in but it doesn't look good.  Dad doesn't like camping later in the summer as the nights get too cold.  If the fire ban doesn't get lifted in the next couple of weeks, I might convince him to just suck it up and camp in the Provincial campground in St. Peters for the night.  At least we can say we got out and we are close to all the things we like doing in that area. 

 

Labour Day weekend in Margaree

Labour Day; the final long weekend of the summer and one that I try to go all out for since I have nine months of fall, winter and spring to go through before the weather gets nice enough to do things comfortably outdoors again. 

Usually, Labour Day is spent with friends in Margaree and that's exactly where I headed on the Labour Day long weekend this past September. 

I didn't take the long way there this time because it was the only day that was supposed to be nice enough to go swimming all weekend and I wanted to get there in time to have lunch, stop at the house to change into my swimsuit and make the 40-minute drive to Inverness Beach.  

We arrived at the house with the incredible views of the sea in the early afternoon and after settling in and getting beach-ready, we headed to Inverness.  

While my friend wasn't in the least bit interested in going in the water, I couldn't wait to get in!  Even this late in the season, the water was still warm and the air was warm too.  I listened in amusement as some middle-aged men swimming nearby teased a tourist from a more southern destination.  They thought the water was warm like I did but the tourist just stood there shivering and refusing to get ducked.  

When I finally got out of the water, my friend was a long ways down the beach searching for sea glass.  I sat in my chair with a book and enjoyed the relaxing sounds of the gentle waves and seagulls above.  After I read a chapter and was dried off, I started down the beach.  I caught up with my friend who, by that time, had a baggie filled with colourful beach glass.  I stopped for a quick chat and continued down the beach for another long time.  I never realized how long that beach is.  When I turned back, I still hadn't reached the end!

We decided on Wabo's Pizza for supper  We left Inverness just before dark and stopped at the house to change out of our beach clothes.  By the time we were ready to head to Cheticamp, it was dark and we were hungry.  We still had another 30-minute drive before we reached the pizza shop.  We ordered just before we left and got there just as the shop was closing!  

That evening, we sat in the living room with the big windows overlooking the deck.  The air was cool but after a while of staring at this deck and being enticed to step outside and admire that night sky with all those stars, I decided to step outside for a bit. 

The air was crisp but there wasn't a cloud in sight!  The night sky in the country sure is something to see!  I took a few pictures to see if they would come out and was surprised to see something I wasn't expecting in some of them.  Some pink and purple strips were visible to the north.  I checked my Northern Lights finder app and sure enough, there was a good chance of spotting them that night and several of my friends who were camped out nearby already had pictures posted.  We don't usually see the Northern Lights this far south but they've been appearing in the night sky over Cape Breton quite a bit this past year!

The next day wasn't as warm and sunny as the day before but we set out early to make the most of it.  We started the day by driving to the Dancing Goat to pick up some sweets as we knew it would be closed on the way home the next day.  I hoped to see the giant sunflowers in Margaree along the way but we were too late; they had already bloomed and withered away for the season.  

We next headed to Cheticamp to attempt a hike along the Salmon Pools Trail.  We tried the trail a few years ago but turned around when it started to rain.  A few years before that we did hike quite a ways in but had to turn around when we ran out of time.  We didn't make it all the way to the end this time either but we got a little further than before and got to enjoy the late summer air and the peace of the river and forest sounds. 

I always hate leaving the country to go home.  I always said if I could find a way to make a living in a place like Cheticamp, Inverness or Ingonish, I would move there in a flash.  I guess there's always retirement! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Never Forget the Power that Ocean Holds

"Make sure there's always other people around when you go swimming".  "Never swim alone". "Don't go in water over your head". "Stay close to the lifeguards".  "Don't swim at sunset".  These are just some of the warnings I've heard over the years from people who showed their concern at my habits of doing all of the above despite promising I wouldn't. White lies, I tell myself.  Just little white lies to keep them quiet and from worrying unnecessarily.  After all, I'm a good swimmer and I'm always aware of my surroundings.  

Yes, I try to make sure there are other people around when I swim but that's not always possible.  Sometimes I end up heading to the beach alone because no one else feels like going and I'm not one to pass up opportunities just because I have no one to go with.  And later in the season, there are few people at the beach because everyone is back to school or work and the air is cooler.   I rarely go in water over my head but if the water is clear and calm, sometimes I'm enticed to go further out to explore the depths with my mask and snorkel. And swimming at sunset?  Well, that's my favourite time to swim!

I've always heard the stories about Inverness Beach and some of the other nearby beaches along the northwestern coast of Cape Breton.  Stories about the riptides and strong currents and about how many people have drowned in the area over the years. It wasn't that I didn't believe the stories; I just never witnessed conditions bad enough to warrant much concern any time I swam there. That is until July 27th, 2024.  That day turned out to be one I'll never forget and one that changed the way I feel about the ocean forever.  

That day started like any other beach day.  I picked up a friend and we drove the 2.5 hours to Inverness Beach.  I choose my days wisely when I know I will driving that distance.  I make sure the forecast calls for plenty of sun, warm temperatures and light winds.  I picked a good one.   

For most of the afternoon, we alternated our time between swimming and sunbathing on the beach. I swam in water just over my head with no issues.  Everything was good, it was a perfect day.  

At around 4 O'clock, we went for a long walk down the beach to dry off and headed to Cheticamp for something to eat with the intention of returning to the beach in time for one last sunset swim before heading home.  

We walked onto the beach near the canteen and instead of walking further down the beach like I usually did, I decided to just swim right there. Just before sunset, I entered the water for my final swim of the day.  The water was still calm and clear and the sun was starting it's descent into the horizon.  About a dozen people were still in the water and all was well.    No one else was in the water right where I was but there were people all around, both on the beach and in the water nearby. 

My friend stayed on the beach this time to take pictures and catch up on some messages she got throughout the day.  I slipped into the warm water and when I got waist-deep, I swam for a bit in the fading beam of sunlight that stretched from the horizon to the beach.  After a few minutes, I switched to floating on my back.  I remember it being so calm and relaxing in those last few moments before the chaos.

I was only floating like that for maybe two minutes and in a matter of seconds, my relaxing sunset swim turned into a fight for my life. When I tried to stand up, I was in water over my head the shore was getting further and further away.  I tried to swim but to no avail.  I was being pulled into deeper water.  Then it hit me; I was in a riptide.  My first reaction was panic.  I frantically tried to swim harder and harder and instead of getting closer to shore, I was pulled underwater.  I remember advice giving to me in the past; if you find yourself in a rip current, DON'T PANIC!  I regained my composure but knew I needed help.  I waved my hands in the air and yelled "HELP".  I could see everyone on the beach but no one was looking my way.  No one on the beach saw my waving and no one heard my desperate call for help.  I was on my own and had to act fast.  

As if by some miracle, my foot found a large rock.  I wrapped my ankles around as best as I could and held on for dear life while I tried to regain my strength for one last attempt to get myself out of that raging current. When I felt ready, I used all my strength to propel myself toward the beach using the rock.  I swam as hard as I could, using both arms and legs and all the energy I had left.  Finally, I was back in water shallow enough to stand up and walk the last few feet to shore. The whole ordeal felt like an eternity but was just minutes, if that.  That's how quickly I could have been swept out into the open ocean and never seen again. When I reached the water's edge, I collapsed in the sand, choking and crying.  My friend raced to me to see what was wrong.  She hadn't seen a thing but she saw the terror in my eyes and knew that I had just been through a harrowing experience. 

For days after that incident, I couldn't get my mind of it.  All I could think about was how close I was to drowning and how lucky I was to be still alive.  I noticed myself feeling grateful towards everything.  Even small things - like a relaxing walk, my morning coffee with Dad, a hot meal - were given more thought than usual.  And let me tell you, was I ever grateful to see that beautiful sunrise that morning.  And as I sat silently and watched the sun rise over the bay and the sky turn all sorts of vibrants colors I couldn't shake the thought that I almost never got to see the sunrise again. 

I went for a swim at the beach close to my house a few days after the incident in Inverness and found myself looking at the ocean differently.  I didn't hate it or blame it for nearly claiming me; I just had a newfound respect for the power it held and how quickly it could turn a leisurely swim into a fight for survival in a matter of seconds. I entered the water slower than usual and as I stood and looked out to the far depths of the Atlantic, that wave of gratitude came over me once again when I thought about how I could have ended up somewhere out there, never to step foot on dry land again. 

Jersey Cove, Black Brook, Inverness and Everywhere in Between

It's always nice to have friends in various places around Cape Breton.  One such good friend has a seasonal home in Jersey Cove at the Joyful Journeys RV Park. I pass through there often on the way to Ingonish so I always make a point to stop in and pay a visit or, as was the case early in the summer, stop by, head out on an adventure in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and stay the night in Jersey Cove. 

I left early that morning with the beach on my mind.  The earlier the better.  It's about an hour's drive to Jersey Cove and another hour to Black Brook Beach where I intended to spend the day swimming and soaking up the sun.  And what weather we had this summer!!  With soaring temperatures, more sunny days than not and clear night skies, you'll hear no complaints from me! 

 

Anyway, I arrived in Jersey Cove around 9:30.  My friend wasn't quite ready but once she was, we took a short walk around the grounds and down to the water before heading toward the Highlands and onto one of our favourite beaches. 

Two years ago, we went to this beach and it was beautiful but we faced disappointment last year when we went.  The beach was rough and there was hardly any sand.  It was so bad, we had to go swimming elsewhere.  I hoped and hoped we wouldn't face the same this year and fortunately, the beach was back to it's usual glory!  

 

Long story short, the water was crystal clear and warm and the beach was all soft sand.  As per usual, I didn't want to get out of the water but when hunger struck and the sun started to dip in the sky, I reluctantly found a spot on the sand to dry off.   

We hung around Ingonish for a while just enjoying the sights, walking North Bay Beach and eating French fries by the shore. It was almost dark when we headed back and we were too tired to have the bonfire and smores we planned to have that evening before bed.  

The next morning brought with it another adventure to another one of my favourite beaches on the other side of the island and this was going to be an all-day and evening event because I never drive all the way to Inverness to leave before sunset.  Sunset is the main event on the West Coast of Cape Breton Island. 

Although we arrived quite early, there were no parking spots close to the beach so we had to walk quite a ways with all our gear. When we finally reached the sand, we found a perfect spot to spend the day.  I dropped my things and stripped down to my swimsuit and went in the water right away.  I'm not one to just lie in the sun for hours and hours; being in the water is my main purpose to be at any beach, especially when its the one with the warmest and clearest waters on the island!

I spent many hours floating in those clear, warm waters that day.  I also walked the length of the beach and searched for beach glass with my friend who was more keen on lying in the sun than swimming for hours on end.  About an hour before sunset, we left the beach to get something to eat in Cheticamp and pay a quick visit to my sister who was visiting from Alberta and staying in a campervan at the local campground. We got back to the beach just in time for the evening show.

I, once again, stripped down to my bathing suit and entered those clear, warm waters.  The air was cooler by that time but the water was still warm.  The sun was quickly falling toward the horizon when I took my spot in the glowing strip that crossed from the horizon to the shore.  There's just something about being in the dark, vast ocean at sunset.  I can't think of anything more relaxing.  I floated in the calm water until that glowing red ball was no more and sky turned dark.  In the distance, I could hear the sound of bagpipes coming from somewhere above the beach. 

We made the long drive back to Jersey Cove via the Margaree Valley and Englishtown Ferry.  I dropped my friend off at her trailer and made the journey home alone.  I'm ok with that.  Late night drives with my music blaring and the sunroof open to the moon and stars above and the windows down to let in the warm night air are my kinda thing!

I Love These Long Weekends in Margaree

Besides my regular vacation I take in Mid-August, the long weekend during the first week of August is one of my favorite parts of summer because that's when I usually head to Margaree with friends and stay in the area for several days hiking, swimming and enjoying the peace and quiet of the country. 

 

This year was a little different because someone who had never been there came along.  An international student from the big city who wanted to get a taste of authentic Cape Breton rural life. Since he had never been outside of the urban area of the island, I decided to take the long way around the Cabot Trail to get to Margaree.  

We left early to make it to Ingonish in time to have a bite to eat for supper and than drove onto Pleasant Bay and Cheticamp while it was still light enough to enjoy the scenery. Of course, we made a few stops at some key locations along the way.  There was sightseeing at The Point and Ice Cream at the lighthouse in Neil's Harbour.

I love showing off my beautiful island to new people.  This trip was extra special as the person was young and super excited to be seeing something new.  Watching his eyes light up and his head spin around in all directions as he took it all in made me super happy.  To hear someone who was so well-traveled ohhh and awww at the beauty of my little island made me realize how lucky I am to live in such a special place. 

 

It was almost dark when we reached Cheticamp and stopped for gas and some snacks.  It was quite late by time we pulled into the old country house that would be home for the next few nights. 

There's something about staying in an old country home overlooking the sea.  Those old homes have character!  This one is well over 100 years old.  Our foreign guest expressed a mixture of emotions upon discovering that there was no Wi-Fi, the floors creaked and mice were frequent visitors.  I think he was culture-shocked for a bit at first but settled in quite nicely to his rural digs.  

 

I always sleep so well in the country especially in an old house such as the one we were staying in.  No distractions from modern amenities, just the sound of the wind howling outside and the fresh summer night air flowing through the windows.   

Over the next few days, we made good use of our time.  The first day was the only one that was hot and sunny enough to head to the beach so that's exactly what we did.  We drove the 40 minutes to Inverness and staked a spot in the sand.  My newfound friend-from-away grew up in a desert climate so he wasn't used to taking dips in the ocean nor could he swim.  I got a good laugh watching him slowly inch his way to deeper water to duck while he shivered in the icy water.  The water wasn't cold to me at all at 21 degrees Celsius but I can understand how someone from a dry, hot climate would find it cold. He finally ducked and tried desperately to mimic me floating in the salty water.  It was so salty, it seemed almost impossible to sink.  Alas, every time he tried, he sank beneath the waves.  I gave him credit for venturing into the water at all let alone trying to swim!

 

The second day, we did some hiking as it was too cool for swimming.  We drove to Cheticamp first for morning coffee and breakfast at Evangeline and a scenic drive along the Cheticamp Back Road in search of an elusive look-off we were told about at Plateau.  

Since we were in the area and were making good time, we decided to take a hike into the Gypsum Quarry.  Although it was too cool for swimming, it was too warm for hiking.  We found that out about 20 minutes into our hike when we felt like turning around but had gone that far, we might as well go all the way to the quarry.  

Our plans to be out of Cheticamp and on the way to Egypt Falls for a hike were delayed when we got caught in parade traffic.  I always forget about the parade for the Festival de l'Escaouette that happens on the long weekend every year!  So we didn't find the look-off but we did get to see part of the parade before hitting the road again. 

The last time I went searching for Eqypt Falls, I had a hard time finding it.  That was a long time ago and this time I had a GPS so we found the trailhead to the falls pretty quickly. 

It was a about 12 or 13 years ago the last time I did this hike and I remembered it being difficult but very short. It's funny how the memory works.  It took about thirty minutes to reach the falls and the trail was much harder than I remember!  There were very slippery spots and ropes had to be used to get down some of the more steep areas.  To make matters worse, I didn't have the proper footwear for such a hike.  

 

Slowly but surely, we made intact.  One thing that stayed true to my memory was the beauty of the falls.  And once again, our foreign friend was in awe at the natural beauty around him.  He kept talking about all the open spaces and trees!

Our last day in the country was not a very nice one.  Rain, rain, rain. We packed up, cleaned up and headed back to the city. Back to our routines and jobs...until the next long weekend.

Summer trips to Inverness...These are the Days I Long for all Winter!

It's no secret that I love the ocean and I'm sure it's no secret that I also love swimming in the ocean.  The hot temperatures came early this year.  June was warm enough to go swimming but the jellyfish made an appearance around that time too and I don't swim when they're!  Fortunately, they had a short season and were gone just in time for me to start swimming a little earlier than normal.  Mid-July is usually when I find the water warm enough to enjoy longer dips but the water warmed to a comfortable temperature earlier this year. 

I only live about ten minutes away from Dominion Beach so that's where I spend most of my time but whenever I get the chance, I head to Inverness Beach.  It's a 2.5-hour drive to this long, sandy stretch on the northwestern coast of Cape Breton but the drive is worth it for the warm, clear water and spectacular sunsets. 

I made more trips to Inverness than usual this summer but still not as many as I would have liked.  That being said, I made the most of each trip by leaving early in the morning and spending as much time as possible enjoying the two things that draw me to this beach; the swimming and the sunsets. 

It's always my first stop of the day and my last.  After a late morning swim and long walk in the surf, I head further north to check out some of my other favorite beaches at Chimney Corner and Whale Cove.  Sometimes I stop at Plage St. Pierre on Cheticamp Island, usually I grab a coffee in Cheticamp and go for a scenic drive into the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and along the Cheticamp Back Road.  

Before heading back to Inverness, I grab something to eat at La Gabriel or Wabo's Pizza and eat on the boardwalk while watching the boats coming and going.  I always make sure to be back at Inverness Beach at least an hour before sunset.  I set up camp in the sand once again and head into those warm, clear waters to enjoy a final evening swim.  

The true magic happens just as the sun dips almost to the horizon and the last glowing rays sparkle in a strip leading from the surf to the great depths as far as the eye can see. As long as I stay in that glowing strip, I can still see straight to the bottom.  Sometimes a boat or lone paddleboarder will appear in the distance making that sparkling strip of light leading to the setting sun even more spectacular.  One evening, there was even a lone bagpiper playing high above the beach.

The air cools quickly and by the time the sun is gone and the sky darkens, I know it's time to get out of the water.  This is the hardest part of the day.  The water is warmer than the air at this time and I never know if it will be the last Inverness sunset swim of the season.  Reluctantly, I head to shore, dry off, change into dry clothes and make the long journey home.  

It's fall now but thoughts of days like this are what keep me going through the long, cold winter.  Let the countdown to summer begin!  

Finding Magic Cove

It wasn't too long ago that I found out there was yet another amazing hidden place on Cape Breton Island that I hadn't been too.  It amazes me how many secret places are still being discovered by me on this little island!  

This new place I'm talking about is Magic Cove near Inverness on the Northwest coast of Cape Breton.  When I saw pictures online last winter, I made a promise to myself that I would find this place in the summer.  I knew my car wouldn't make it there on the rugged backroads but I had a friend who was always up for an adventure.  When I mentioned it to her, she was all in.

Summer came and she didn't forget.  It was her who suggested one summer day in late July that we should this magical place everyone was now talking about.  

It took a while to figure out what road we had to take but once we got on the right track, we easily found it.  The road wasn't too bad, just a little bumpy and narrow in a few spots.  We had some trouble finding the trail to get down to the actual cove but eventually found it to the right of a field behind some trees.  

I was disappointed to discover that the trail was very steep and neither of us had proper footwear for such a rugged decline.  I was ok with that.  I knew how to find it now so I could come back anytime.  We could see the cove from the top and yes, it was as beautiful as it looked in photos. 

We returned to Inverness, grabbed some food and headed to the beach for the evening.  You'll hear no complaints from me when an Inverness Beach sunset is mentioned! 

A Final Sunset Swim at Inverness Beach

Summer is usually a beautiful time of year in Cape Breton, weather-wise. However, the summer of 2023 was not so great in terms of the number of nice days there were.  I recently heard that it was the wettest summer on record.  I believe that; I'm sure it rained at least every second day and at times, it rained for days at a time! 

The swimming season was off to a late start and it wasn't until much later in the season that I finally made it to my favorite beach at Inverness and when I did make it there, I made sure to go back as much as possible.  I went three weekends in a row and each time I went, I thought it would be my last. The weekend at the end of the first week of September was my last beach trip to Inverness and it was perfect in every way I can think of. 

 You may be wondering why I love the beach in Inverness, Cape Breton so much.  Well, there are many reasons besides the fact that it's my favorite beach. It's sandy, It's long, the water is always quite warm, the scenery is nice and the sunsets are incredible. That's why when I plan a trip to Inverness Beach, I plan it strategically.  Everything has to be just right.  The temperatures need to be in the mid-20s at least, low winds to the south and low probability of rain or other adverse weather conditions. I always leave very early in the morning but the main goal is to always be on the beach right before sunset no matter what. That's the highlight of any day spent in this magical place. 

On that final day I had on Inverness Beach, it was calling for great weather and ideal conditions so I set out early and drove straight to that little town on the west side of Cape Breton Island.  It seemed strange that there were hardly any cars there when I arrived as I usually have to search for a while before finding a place to park.  I drove right to the edge where I could look out over the water and was even more surprised by what I saw there; Very high tide, rough water and lots of wind.  I was crushed.  I drove all that distance to be faced with the worse kind of conditions for swimming. 

I knew sometimes conditions changed later in the day at Inverness and because low tide would be that evening, I thought I had a chance at enjoying a sunset swim.  I left Inverness and drove to Cheticamp, had a coffee, sat on the boardwalk for a while and took a scenic drive along the back road at the foot of the mountains before driving back to the Margaree area and stopping at Chimney Corner. The water was nice and calm there and there weren't many people around.  At around 5:30, I drove back to Inverness. I was right!  The conditions had changed and by that time, it was a perfect evening for a swim in those warm, clear waters. 

 I set up my towel in my favorite spot and headed right for the water.  On the way, I met up with a friend who had the same idea. It's always nice to have company when swimming in the evening especially later in the summer when the rip currents seem to be prevalent. I tried not to think about the two tagged Great White sharks that were lurking just offshore from Inverness Beach.  One in 16 million chance, right? Nothing will keep me out of the water, not even the sharks!

There was a nice rolling wave that evening and the water was as it always is; clear right to the bottom.  I stayed in for about an hour, got out for a bit before sunset and than just before the sun went down, I entered the water one last time. I swam right into that spot where the last rays of the lowering sun come down over the water and swam into that beautiful sunset.  Nothing is more relaxing.  I could have stayed there forever just floating in that red strip of light on the clear, blue sea. 

I didn't want to leave because I knew it would likely be my last trip there for the year.  But I had a long drive home and I would be alone on that long highway through the Margaree Valley. It's days like this that I think about when the snow is falling and the days are cold.  Thoughts of sunsets, clear ocean water and warm breezes keep me going during those long winter days.

A Long Weekend Like the Ones I Used to Have

It was a yearly tradition and then Covid arrived and it wasn't anymore.  Things changed in the years of the pandemic, people changed, routines changed.  I began to think that those August long weekend trips to  Margaree were a thing of the past. 

That's why it was such a surprise when the invite came from the friend I used to travel to Margaree with to spend the weekend there.  I had a four-day weekend coming up for the civic holiday in August and I had a desire to get out of town and spend some time in the country.  And that's exactly what I did. 

We left early that Friday morning and headed straight for Inverness Beach before checking into the old farmhouse that would be home-away-from-home for 3 days. It was supposed to be off and on rain showers all weekend with Friday afternoon being the only time that looked decent enough to enjoy some time at the beach.  The water was lovely...warm and calm as it often is on the west coast of Cape Breton. However, it was windy and probably not the best day to try and set up my new beach tent!  Let's just say it didn't stay in one place like it should have! 

It didn't rain although the sky threatened to at times.  I was just happy to have been able to go for a refreshing dip in the clear, warm water of Inverness Beach followed by a long walk in the surf along that long stretch of coastline. 

Nightfall comes sooner in mid-summer so we left the beach around 5:30 to get back to the house and unpack before dark.  With our chores complete and some reheated leftover pizza in our bellies, we settled in to relax for the evening. 

The next day was a mixed bag of weather so it was hard to decide what to do.  We drove to Inverness to do some thrift store shopping at The Closet.  I was surprised to find quite a few things in that tiny shop.  

Next, we drove to Cheticamp intending to hike the Salmon Pools Trail in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.  We attempted this hike a few years ago and had to turn around due to bad weather.  We hoped to finish it this time around but that was not to be.  The moment I turned the car off in the parking lot, the rain started.  We drove back to town and stopped for our traditional ice cream at LeBlanc's General Store (I had the Blackberry Cheesecake ice cream, of course).  

When we exited the store, the rain had stopped and a crowd was gathering along the road.  Curious as to what was going on, we asked someone passing by. "There's a big parade at 2 and they'll be closing this road very soon."  We could have taken the Cheticamp Back Road to get back to Cap LeMoine but instead, we decided to stay right where we were and watch the parade. 

The parade was part of the Festival de l'Escaouette and for a small place, I was surprised at how many floats there were! It was nice to see all the families out with their little ones, smiling and waving and having a good time.  

Back at the house that evening, the skies threatened rain and thunderstorms. The barbecue we had planned was postponed so we stayed indoors and tried our hands at some virtual reality.  I'm not a video game person by any means but I always wanted to try this.  I donned some futuristic-looking headgear and raced my Corvette through the streets of some ancient city in Italy. It was interesting.  I admit it was easy to get caught up in the realistic feel of it and at times, I felt like I was actually behind the wheel! It was fun for a short time but not something I could see myself getting hooked on or doing on sunny days that are best spent outdoors. 

My last day in the Margaree area was again under threatening skies.  It was too cold and windy to head to Inverness for some swimming and too close to rain to do much hiking so we went to Cheticamp and got some coffee and sat on the beach on Cheticamp Island for a while before heading to Le Gabriel for our traditional yearly feed of French Onion Soup and Nachos. 

The weather may not have been great but it wasn't the worst part about the entire weekend; the worst part is always the moment we have to say our goodbyes and hit the road for the long drive home.  But boy, it was nice to be back up there again!

An Almost Ruined Beach Day Turned out to be one of the Best Days all Summer

The summer of 2022 was a strange one.  I was excited that Covid-19 was no longer a threat and the government had loosened restrictions so I was looking forward to getting back to beach days, road trips and camping excursions.  However, high gas prices, soaring inflation and work restrictions prevented me from having the summer I dreamed of while I was in pandemic isolation for the previous two years. 

Despite the hurdles, I vowed to take at least one day trip to my favorite beach, Inverness Beach in Western Cape Breton. I started to plan early because I knew I had a small window to work with when the weather would be nicest and I would have some time away from my work. I didn't care if anyone came with me or not so I didn't even try to plan the trip around anyone else's schedule.  I eyed the second week of August, I gave notice to my employer that would be taking a few days off and I got everything ready to go at a moment's notice.  My logic was that one of the days I choose to take off would be nice and I would be able to monitor the weather and head out on my way at a moment's notice when the winds and skies were just right.  Why plan a beach day if clouds, rain and wind is forecast?  I wanted the day to be perfect because I only had one chance. 

I chose the day and that day started out wonderfully.  Sunny, warm, not a cloud in the sky, at least not until I started getting closer to my final destination.  Grey clouds were moving in, the wind picked up and raindrops started to appear on my windshield. I pulled up to the beach hoping that at least the water was warm enough to keep some people swimming despite the weather but, much to my disappointment, everyone was leaving and soon there was no one left on the beach.  The surf was up and even the lifeguards didn't look like they wanted to be there.  

Thinking my beach day was ruined, I decided to try and make the best out of out anyway.  After all, I drove over two hours to get there. I stopped for a coffee in the little town of Inverness before driving toward Cheticamp. As I drove along the coast, the sky started to clear and the sun came out.  I saw cars parked along the road to Chimney Corner which I thought was strange since it had just been raining. I drove down to check it out anyway and a good thing I did; the beach was beautiful!  Low tide, no waves and all sand.  This beach is a little more sheltered than Inverness and that was my theory as to why it was so nice there.  The water was incredibly warm.  I stayed there in those warm waters for several hours, content that I got my beach day after all.  Chimney Corner is a close second when it comes to favourite beaches in this area of Cape Breton so I was perfectly fine spending the afternoon there.  

 Later that afternoon after I had walked the beach and dried off, I continued on to Cheticamp where I grabbed some Nachos from Le Gabriel and ate them on the boardwalk.  I looked off in the distance and could see nothing but clear skies towards Inverness.  The sunsets in Cheticamp are nice but the sunsets in Inverness are incredible. Inverness sunsets are one of my life's greatest joys and that day was my only chance to enjoy one that summer. I headed west and back to where I started.  I walked up to the edge of the dunes to check out the conditions of the beach and couldn't believe what I was seeing.  The seas were calm, the tide was fairly low, the horizon was clear and there were dozens of people in the water!  I didn't argue with myself for long.  I knew it was late and had to hit the road soon but I couldn't pass up this opportunity.  I grabbed my beach gear, changed into my swimsuit again, found a place in the soft, warm sand to make my base and immersed myself into that sparkling water.  The water was so clear I could see right to the bottom.  There's one thing I love more than Inverness sunsets; swimming toward those last rays of the sun and feeling as if I'm the last person on earth, one with the mighty ocean...and that's exactly what I did until the sky turned dark and the air turned cool and I made the long drive home. 

A not-so-great Day turned into an Amazing Evening at my Favourite Beach

I'm a contract worker and usually work winters and have the summers off but this past summer was very strange for two reasons: Covid-19 was still around and I had to work all summer.  It wasn't so bad.  Except for being stuck in an air-conditioned office on hot, summer evenings.  The part I hated the most though was only having two days to get away on the weekends and that meant road trips around Cape Breton Island were in short supply. 

I have many favourite beaches around Cape Breton but Inverness Beach is my all-time favourite because it has all of the things I love in one place; sand, warm, clear water and some of the best sunsets around. 

 During a usual Cape Breton summer, I travel to Inverness at least once a week.  Unfortunately, since I was working five days a week in the evenings, it was impossible for me to make that 2.5-hour drive that often and I only made it there once this past summer.  

I choose the long weekend during the first week of August as my one shot at a beach day in Inverness. I picked this weekend because the water is still cool in early July and late August can be iffy too with storms threatening the coast.  In the past, that weekend seems to always be nice. Unfortunately, that was not the case this year. 

When I left in the morning, it was with mild disappointment.  The wind was from the north, the skies were grey and the temperature was unseasonably cool.  My only hope was that the west coast of the island might be seeing some better weather. I arrived to much of the same with the added disappointment of the ocean being too rough to swim in. 

The parking lot at the beach was my first indication that it was not a beach day in Inverness.  It's usually so full that you have to park down the road and walk up.  That day, there was hardly a car in sight.  The ones that were there were either leaving or getting ready to leave because the conditions were not ideal. 

I grabbed my towel and chair and ventured to check it out.  Nope.  Not a soul in the water! The water was too rough.   Even the lifeguards, who were all bundled up in their warm sweaters,  looked like they didn't want to be there. The only people using the beach that morning were the beach glass pickers and they were bundled up too.  Disappointed, I returned to my car thinking I had just wasted my only chance to swim in the clear, warm waters of Inverness Beach.  

Inverness isn't the only nice beach along the west coast of Cape Breton.  Two more of my favourite beaches are only a short drive away.  I thought that maybe there was a small chance one of those beaches might be suitable for swimming. Chimney Corner is quite protected on both sides by high cliffs and Whale Cove is also protected and faces another direction. It was a small chance but worth checking since I drove so far to get there.  

I arrived at Chimney Corner first and it looked promising.  Unfortunately, there were cars parked all the way up to the highway and there was nowhere safe for me to park.  I kept driving to Whale Cove.  Again, many cars were parked along the road, a good sign.  Luckily, I found a spot and looked out over the embankment to see scores of people in the water, jumping off the floating dock and walking barefoot in the surf.  How could this be?  It was like a fall day only 20 minutes down the highway and here, it was like a typical mid-summer beach day!

For two hours, I enjoyed the clear, warm waters of Whale Cove.  I should add that the water was very calm as well.  Much different from the rough waters of Inverness that greeted me earlier that morning.  

When I left Whale Cove, I headed for Cheticamp to grab some of those delicious nachos from Le Gabriel and ate them at a picnic table near the entrance of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. I drove along the Cheticamp Backroad and over to Cheticamp Island before heading back towards Chimney Corner.  My hope was there were more parking spaces available so I could maybe go for a quick swim at another one of my favourite beaches.  

I was able to drive right to the end of the road and park near the path that led to the beach.  The water was calm, clear and warm here too.  The crowds were starting to disperse as they usually do around supper time so I had the beach almost to myself for a while.  Until well past 7 O'clock, I enjoyed a relaxing dip.  I wanted to stay there all night but something was telling me I had to check out Inverness Beach one last time.  Often, the winds die down in the evening and the possibility that I just might be able to grab a quick dip in the water right at sunset was what made me drive back to my original destination.  

 Only a few cars were parked in the beach parking lot when I arrived.  Not a bad sign since that was the time most people go home for supper. If they return, it would be at sunset.  I stepped out of the car still dripping wet from my swim at Chimney Corner only 15 minutes earlier and walked to the beach to see a handful of people in the calm, clear waters! 

The wind had gone, the water was almost still and was so clear, you could see straight to the bottom. I didn't care that I would be driving all the way home in wet clothes.  I didn't even care if the sun was no longer out to keep me warm after a dip in the ocean.  I didn't care if I froze walking back to the car nor did I care if my car seats got wet. You only live once, right? And there are only a few things I love more in this world than a swim in the calm, clear, warm waters of Inverness Beach at sunset. 

 I took off my shoes and beach coverup and slipped into the water with the last rays of sunlight starting to slip below the horizon.  A young man on a paddleboard headed out to sea at just that moment too. Looked like something out of a movie.  Would have made a nice picture. I wasn't getting out of the water to grab my camera though.  I was going to enjoy every last moment I could in that moment because I knew it might be the last one like it for a long time. 

 

Enjoying those Dog Days of Summer 2020 on a Final Road Trip Around Cape Breton

 Before I set out on day 2 of my Cape Breton tour, I wasn't sure where I would end up. It was a toss-up between several routes but, after consulting with my friend who joined me that day, we decided to head up Route 4 to St. Peter's and then take West Bay Road through Dundee and onto Marble Mountain and eventually to Orangedale with the destination to be determined beyond that point. 

This was a drive I hadn't done in quite a few years so it was an opportunity to re-familiarize myself with the area and practice my new camera in surroundings different from where I usually go. 

The drive along Route 4 through Sydney Forks, East Bay, Ben Eoin, Big Pond, Irish Vale, Johnstown, Chapel Island and St. Peters is another one of my favourite Cape Breton drives.  We grabbed some subs at Subway in St. Peters and headed to Battery Provincial Park where we spotted a deer crossing someone's front lawn, watched some people fishing, took some pictures of the canal and, of course, ate our lunch.

As I said, I haven't driven the road that goes from St. Peters and onto Marble Mountain and Orangedale in quite a few years, so I couldn't remember what to expect as we turned onto that road and headed in the direction that I hoped would eventually take us to the Trans Canada Highway on the other side. 

We only had to drive for a few minutes before reaching an interesting roadside attraction.  I'm not sure what the meaning is behind it but it looked like it was worth stopping for.  There was no one around to ask what the purpose of all the license plates hanging in the trees was but as we stared and listened to them eerily rustling in the breeze, we came up with your own theories.  

The mysterious roadside attraction we came across on the highway through Dundee

 

I would like to know the real story behind them if anyone knows!  There are hundreds of them from all over Canada and the United States and a number of novelty plates as well.  Where would someone acquire all of these?

The road was longer than I remembered.  It was also likely one of the worse roads I had ever driven on in Cape Breton for potholes.  It was so bad, I thought I would get a flat tire.  As I veered to hit one hole, I'd hit another bigger one and that went on for quite a stretch until we reached Marble Mountain. 

I had always heard of Marble Mountain and its beautiful beach for years before I finally drove there a few years ago to check it out for myself.  I fell in love with the clear, warm waters of the little beach at the bottom of a steep hill. 

On this day, I was looking forward to entering those beautiful waters again.  Unfortunately, it was not meant to be.  Upon arrival, a light drizzle started, the fog rolled in and the temperature dropped.  We tried to drive down to the beach to get some pictures and stretch our legs, but there was no one around and there were signs saying the facilities were closed due to Covid-19.

Marble Mountain Lookoff

We drove back up to the main road and stopped at the look-off that overlooks the beach, took some pictures and had a rest there before driving off again towards Orangedale. 

I'm not sure what it is about Orangedale that captivates me.  Maybe it's the peace and quiet that envelopes the little village, the sparkling, clear waters by the docks or the desolate back roads that give it that peaceful, remote feel like you are in the middle of nowhere.  Or perhaps it's the sound of the Orangedale Whistle shatters that peace and quiet with a nostalgic shrill that pierces the stillness and reminds me that this was once a bustling community with an active railway passing through.

Upon arrival in the village, we drove to the little pier and sat for a while enjoying the fresh air and stillness that I've come to expect whenever I pass through.  

The pretty village of Orangedale

Unfortunately, during my visit to Orangedale this time, the sound of the infamous Orangedale Whistle was not to be heard. I don't know if it just wasn't working on that day or if it has been permanently silenced but like the song by the Rankin Family says, "The Orangedale Whistle Will Always Blow", it would be disappointing to find out that it has been silenced forever. 

After we stopped by the old trains near the museum to get some pictures, we headed towards the Trans Canada Highway where we had to make a decision on which way to go next.  When my content-to-just-get-out-of-the-house-road-trip-companion said she didn't care as long as she could get some sunset pictures, I didn't have to think twice before deciding where we would go next.  

Orangedale Museum

At the turn off to the highway, I turned left and only minutes later, I turned left again. I just had to get to Inverness Beach one last time.  It was starting to clear up, the air was warming up and the clear skies were an indication that there would be a spectacular sunset on the beautiful west coast of Cape Breton Island. 

Upon arrival at the beach, I was pleased to see that there were people in the water so I wouldn't be swimming alone. I changed into my swimsuit as quickly as possible and made my way to the beach.  I didn't have to enter slowly because the water was still very warm.  It didn't take any effort to get ducked. 

The conditions were exceptionally good for an evening that late in September.  There was a gentle ripple on the water which must have been at least 18 or 19 degrees.  The sun was quickly lowering into the horizon and the sky was starting to change from blue to a mix of orange, red and purple.  It doesn't get any better than this.  

Sunset at Inverness Beach

 I must have been in the water for at least an hour.  The sun was gone when I finally and reluctantly came ashore.  It took three tries to get out of the water.  Three times I walked to the edge of the water only to turn around and head back in. 

I know that any dip in the ocean I manage to get this late in the season is likely my last until next summer.  I need that closure before I walk away for good and it takes a few tries to accept that this is goodbye for a while.

It was almost dark when I finally came out of the water.  Surprisingly the air was still warm so I didn't get a chill like I expected to.  I still had to change out of my wet bathing suit as there was no chance it would dry without the sun and I didn't want to embark on the two-hour journey home on a wet car seat. 

Without sunlight, it was a bit of a challenge changing in the outdoor changing stall but I managed and soon, Inverness Beach was disappearing in my rear-view mirror.  I had a sinking feeling that this would definitely be the last time seeing it until next summer. 

The drive home was uneventful but I did take my time, not just because there were deer and other wild animals on the move, but because I knew this would likely be my last summer road trip of the season and I wanted to savour every bit of it. 

Driving through Margaree is just as lovely at night as it is in the day.  On a busy night, you might pass five cars all the way to The Red Barn.  While the lush valleys and towering hills lose their color after the sun goes down, their ghostly silhouettes can still be seen against the night sky.   

We stopped at the look-off on Kelly's Mountain that overlooks the Seal Island Bridge to try and get some interesting pictures of the bridge at night.  I never expected this to be a scary experience but let me tell you, when you are standing at that look-off while 18-wheelers are barrelling around that sharp turn, it looks like they're going to drive right into you. 

Imagine standing close to the Trans-Canada Highway as these huge trucks pick up speed going down that hill at 100 km's an hour.  My heart raced every time one came in our direction only to follow the curve of the road only metres away from where we stood! 

When the traffic cleared for a bit, I stood there on top of the world and took in the light, cool breeze before getting back in the car and making that last leg of the journey home.  2020 might have been an epic year - and not in a good way - but the summer of 2020 didn't turn out so bad after all.