A Summer Day Trip From Jersey Cove to Ingonish

It's nice to have friends with trailers and summer homes in nice places.  It's especially nice to have a great friend who has a trailer in beautiful Jersey Cove, Cape Breton.  That's because it's the perfect place to enjoy a quick summer getaway.  It's scenic, it's quiet, it's relaxing and it's centrally located near all the places I love to visit.  Baddeck is only 20 minutes away and Ingonish is less than an hour away just to name a few of those places.  Most importantly though, this friend spends much of her summer there in her trailer and loves when company stops by.  Sometimes that company happens to be me.  One such day this summer, it was me.

 One of the best things about Jersey Cove is it's less than an hour away from my house so it's the perfect place to head to if I want a quick getaway.  I arrived at the trailer mid-morning and after we unpacked the car, we headed straight to Ingonish for the day. Our plan was to recreate the perfect day we had the year before at Black Brook Beach. It didn't quite turn out that way but it was still a great day!

We drove to Black Brook as I thought for sure the beach conditions would be perfect on such a perfect day.  As we walked down the hill to the beach area, we realized that there was no beach!  The tide was so high and it was so windy that the water was coming right up to the grass.  There was no way it was safe or ideal to swim there that day.  Off we went in search of another beach. That beach ended up being the little patch of soft sand by the wharves in Ingonish known as The Point.  The water was clear, warm and free of jellyfish and debris. It was lovely. 

Supper that evening was take-out by the ocean.  After a walk along that beautiful beach at North Bay, we headed back to the trailer at Jersey Cove. It was a clear, warm night so stargazing and sitting around the fire listening to music was in order.  The closer I am to nature, the better I sleep and that night I slept like a baby to the sounds of the trees rustling and the waves gently rolling ashore. I awoke to an adorable little hummingbird staring at me through the window right next to my bed. 

A Fall Trip Around the Cabot Trail that almost didn't Happen

It almost didn't happen. That one thing that I have to do every summer or fall.  The one thing that I've done every year since I was born.  The thing I look forward to every summer.  The quintessential Cape Breton experience.  A time-honored family tradition.  I'm talking about my annual family road trip around the Cabot Trail. 

All summer, I assumed I would, at some point, go around the Cabot Trail but as summer slipped away and fall arrived, it started to look like that might not happen. A  variety of things occurred during those months that threw everything off.  I started a new job, my sister moved home from away and was due to have a baby, a category 2 hurricane struck the island and caused widespread damage and there were some car issues. By early October, it looked like we wouldn't be going around at all.

The weather was nice at the start of October.  So nice that it prompted some discussion about a potential day trip around The Trail amongst my immediate family members.  We set a date.  We would go after all!

We couldn't have picked a better day to do.  Besides the fact that it was a Saturday and I didn't have to work, it was sunny and fairly warm.  We hit all the traditional spots along the way.  Coffee at Robin's Donuts in Bras d'Or, a drive through the pretty town of Baddeck, The Red Barn so the shopaholic in our crew could get their fix and Flora's in Cheticamp, the look-offs in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and, of course, supper at Coastal in Ingonish. 

After supper, we made the drive around the Keltic Lodge, stopped to check out the gift shop and parked for a little while at Ingonish Beach.  The latter being a request by me so I could admire that beautiful beach and the rolling waves and sip on my post-supper coffee.  I walked to Freshwater Lake, took in one of my favorite views and absorbed it all for a moment knowing that I wouldn't be back until the summer.   

The fall colors are usually at their peak that time of year but, unfortunately, the leaves had already mostly fallen from the trees in the big storm weeks earlier.  That being said, any trip around the Cabot Trail is amazing no matter the season or the conditions.  Being in good company certainly helps make it even better!

An Almost Ruined Beach Day Turned out to be one of the Best Days all Summer

The summer of 2022 was a strange one.  I was excited that Covid-19 was no longer a threat and the government had loosened restrictions so I was looking forward to getting back to beach days, road trips and camping excursions.  However, high gas prices, soaring inflation and work restrictions prevented me from having the summer I dreamed of while I was in pandemic isolation for the previous two years. 

Despite the hurdles, I vowed to take at least one day trip to my favorite beach, Inverness Beach in Western Cape Breton. I started to plan early because I knew I had a small window to work with when the weather would be nicest and I would have some time away from my work. I didn't care if anyone came with me or not so I didn't even try to plan the trip around anyone else's schedule.  I eyed the second week of August, I gave notice to my employer that would be taking a few days off and I got everything ready to go at a moment's notice.  My logic was that one of the days I choose to take off would be nice and I would be able to monitor the weather and head out on my way at a moment's notice when the winds and skies were just right.  Why plan a beach day if clouds, rain and wind is forecast?  I wanted the day to be perfect because I only had one chance. 

I chose the day and that day started out wonderfully.  Sunny, warm, not a cloud in the sky, at least not until I started getting closer to my final destination.  Grey clouds were moving in, the wind picked up and raindrops started to appear on my windshield. I pulled up to the beach hoping that at least the water was warm enough to keep some people swimming despite the weather but, much to my disappointment, everyone was leaving and soon there was no one left on the beach.  The surf was up and even the lifeguards didn't look like they wanted to be there.  

Thinking my beach day was ruined, I decided to try and make the best out of out anyway.  After all, I drove over two hours to get there. I stopped for a coffee in the little town of Inverness before driving toward Cheticamp. As I drove along the coast, the sky started to clear and the sun came out.  I saw cars parked along the road to Chimney Corner which I thought was strange since it had just been raining. I drove down to check it out anyway and a good thing I did; the beach was beautiful!  Low tide, no waves and all sand.  This beach is a little more sheltered than Inverness and that was my theory as to why it was so nice there.  The water was incredibly warm.  I stayed there in those warm waters for several hours, content that I got my beach day after all.  Chimney Corner is a close second when it comes to favourite beaches in this area of Cape Breton so I was perfectly fine spending the afternoon there.  

 Later that afternoon after I had walked the beach and dried off, I continued on to Cheticamp where I grabbed some Nachos from Le Gabriel and ate them on the boardwalk.  I looked off in the distance and could see nothing but clear skies towards Inverness.  The sunsets in Cheticamp are nice but the sunsets in Inverness are incredible. Inverness sunsets are one of my life's greatest joys and that day was my only chance to enjoy one that summer. I headed west and back to where I started.  I walked up to the edge of the dunes to check out the conditions of the beach and couldn't believe what I was seeing.  The seas were calm, the tide was fairly low, the horizon was clear and there were dozens of people in the water!  I didn't argue with myself for long.  I knew it was late and had to hit the road soon but I couldn't pass up this opportunity.  I grabbed my beach gear, changed into my swimsuit again, found a place in the soft, warm sand to make my base and immersed myself into that sparkling water.  The water was so clear I could see right to the bottom.  There's one thing I love more than Inverness sunsets; swimming toward those last rays of the sun and feeling as if I'm the last person on earth, one with the mighty ocean...and that's exactly what I did until the sky turned dark and the air turned cool and I made the long drive home. 

Up Here The Views are Out of this World...Welcome to Cape Clear

I believe it was 2008. Or maybe, it was 2009.  I was still living in St. John's Newfoundland and returned home to Cape Breton Nova Scotia that summer seeking adventure in the short two weeks I had for my vacation.  I know Cape Breton Island well having explored it all my life but, despite its small size, there were still so many places in the great outdoors I hadn't seen yet and wanted to scratch some of those places off my list.  One of the places I wanted to explore was North River Falls. 

After much pleading, I convinced my father to come along with me on the 19-kilometre return hike.  He had mentioned wanting to go in the past but thought it too far to hike at his age.  I knew he could handle it and thought it might be his only chance to see those lovely waterfalls he had seen so many times only in pictures.  

The day we hiked to the falls was also the day we discovered another hidden gem quite off-the-beaten-path in the Cape Breton Highlands.  You may have recently heard about this spectacular place as many people are now discovering it. But back then when my dad and I first heard about it, it was almost unknown.  I'm talking about Cape Clear. 

It was quite by accident that dad and I learned there was a look-off up on the Highland Road in the Cape Breton Highlands somewhere and the views were among the best anywhere on the Cape Breton Island.  Hearing this, we knew we had to find it. The man who told us about it drew a map with some directions on it so we would be able to find it easily. Although it's in the Cape Breton Highlands, the shouldn't be mistaken with the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.  The park is an easily-accessible, well-maintained tourist area while the area of the highlands that the Highland Road passes through is remote. 

The first time we tried to find Cape Clear was after our hike to North River Falls.  Although we were both exhausted from the long hike (the trail had been rough the heavy rains a few days earlier), we decided to take a drive up into the Cape Breton Highlands to see if we could find Cape Clear.  It was already getting late in the day but according to the map, it didn't look too far.  The sun had gone down when we turned back toward Hunter's Mountain having not found any trace of it. It was as if it didn't exist at all.

The following week, dad and I returned to the area to search for Egypt Falls near Margaree.  It took a while to find them because they weren't where we thought they would be.  The hike to these falls isn't long so we had plenty of time to venture back out into the Great outdoors of the Cape Breton Highlands and continue our search for Cape Clear.  This time, we found it.

It was much further along that old gravel road than we thought.  We drove and drove for what seemed like hours and there it was; a sign with the words "Cape Clear" pointing to the left.  The road was not as well maintained once we left that main road but passable enough to get within a short walk of the Look-off. 

For more than a decade, I didn't return to Cape Clear or that region of the Cape Breton Highlands but over the years, many more people started to discover this treasure tucked deep in the great outdoors of Cape Breton's highest peaks. 

It wasn't until a few weeks ago that the opportunity to return to the look-off presented itself.  My sister was home from away and had heard about it and wanted to go.  Dad was hesitant because he only has a Toyota Corolla and my Hyundai Sonata is too babied to travel such a messy road.  When a family friend offered to go with us and take her Jeep, it was a done deal. Off in search of Cape Clear we went.  I say "in search of" because it was so long since I or Dad had been there that neither one of us could remember exactly how far up in the Cape Breton Highlands it was and how many turn-offs we had to make.  The hope was the signs were still up. This isn't a highly trafficked area and I have no idea who takes care of signs and if they're even replaced when they fall down or get stolen to decorate someone's shed.  

The main road wasn't so bad but it took longer than I remembered to reach the first turnoff to Cape Clear.  We even had to stop and ask some hunters for directions. "You're on the right track! Just keep driving for another 30 or so kilometres". It started to rain but turning around wasn't an option at that point. At least it wasn't snowing.  Rain is typical Cape Breton weather this time of year. It usually snows in the highlands in October. About 45 minutes after the encounter with the hunters, we reached the sign pointing to Cape Clear. 

This new road was in fairly good shape.  We drove for a bit before coming to another sign pointing to Cape Clear.  This road wasn't so great. I can't remember if we had to turn again but either way, the rest of the trip was on a pothole-ridden, muddy, narrow gravel road that got worse and worse.  Finally, we reached a giant puddle and the owner of the Jeep said "no more".  As we got our camera gear and jackets ready, a pick-up truck came from the direction we were headed.  We watched as he carefully navigated that huge puddle and cringed near the end when we heard a loud scraping sound.  Good call on leaving the Jeep behind.  We walked the rest of the way in the rain.  

Five minutes was all it took to reach the first lookoff area and the main one was only about a minute from that.  The rain let up just long enough for us to admire that stunning view.  With it being so out-of-the-way, it could be a long time before any of us return so best to enjoy it while we could and enjoy it we did.

The air up there in the Cape Breton Highlands feels different, smells different. It's so quiet and the lack of buildings and people make it sound almost hollow, for lack of a better word. Like you're on top of the world and looking down on everything else....high up where the noise and distractions of modern, everyday life can't reach you.  An escape from the real world.  The only sound was the howling wind, not through the trees but coming up from the valley below and sweeping the plateau we were standing on. It was a cold breeze.  One that brought with it a dampness that chilled to the bone.  It felt like it might snow. Now and again, the wind blew just right to get a whiff of rotting leaves that had recently fallen from nearby trees. A typical late fall day on Cape Breton Island.  

In my opinion, the views that are enjoyed at Cape Clear are the best on Cape Breton Island. If you don't believe me, just check out the pictures of the place...or take a trip up the Highland Rd. and check it out for yourself.  It's worth the trip and I promise you won't be disappointed!

 Tips for exploring Cape Clear safely:

• Dress in layers.  It gets cold way up on top of those mountains!
• Wear good walking shoes.  It helps to wear waterproof boots in case the road is muddy.
• Have emergency provisions in your vehicle in case something goes wrong. A blanket, some extra snacks and water and matches and anything else you may need to keep you safe and warm if you break down or get lost. Cell service in the area is spotty at best!
• If possible, don't go there alone.  It's quite remote and there are some dangers to be mindful of including steep drops, adverse weather conditions and wild animals such as bears and coyotes. 
• Don't overdrive your vehicle on bad roads.  This is not the place you want to get stuck in the mud!
• Don't step too close to the edge of the lookoffs.  It's a very steep drop!
  

A Long Overdue Return to The Rock

It seems like it was only yesterday that I boarded the ferry to Newfoundland and spent a week visiting old friends and driving around in that pretty blue mustang convertible the rental company so generously allowed me to drive.  It only recently hit me that that trip was actually five years ago.  I always told myself that after I moved away from Newfoundland, I would go back for a visit at least once every two years.  I guess I lost track of time.

Upon realizing that I broke my own promise to myself, I decided that I would return to The Rock in 2018.  After ironing out some issues (such as when the best time to go would be in relation to work/life/weather and what to do with my big sooky-baby of a cat who doesn't like his mom taking vacations), I came to the conclusion that the best time to go would be the first week in June.  This is usually the best time to see the massive icebergs that make an appearance every spring. 

The only problem with the first week of June was the ferry that I usually take from North Sydney to Argentia wasn't due to start running until late June.  The other ferry from Port aux Basques was running but I would have to drive 12 hours across the island to St. John's and there are no rental car places in the little village.  So I flew, something I only did once in all my years traveling back and forth between the two provinces.  I was disappointed about this.  As much as I like to complain about the ferry service between Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, I also have fond memories of crossing the gulf.  The people I met, the stories I heard, the storms, the delays the memories made (good and bad and funny now) on those crossings are something I hold dear to my heart.  I've always had a love/hate relationship with Marine Atlantic and those sometimes rough crossings that saw me so seasick that, at times, I was unable to walk.  Flying meant avoiding all those hateful things about the ferry but also forgoing a traditional part of that journey.

I always book my flights with Westjet when possible and this time, it was possible.  I boarded in Sydney, landed in Halifax and boarded again for the last leg of the trip to St. John's.  Besides a bit of turbulence, the flight was uneventful.  Actually, it was quite good.  On the first leg, I had a row all to myself and on the second leg, I was seated in the very front row (which I think is a higher class of seating on West Jet planes) with tons of leg room.

Because I didn't check any baggage, I walked off the plane and marched straight to the budget rental car kiosk to pick up my rental.  It didn't take long to sign the paperwork and get the keys to my small economy car.  I arrived at the rental parking area to discover that my small economy car was actually a giant, white Dodge Grand Caravan.  A gas guzzler.  I sat in it for a few minutes contemplating what to do.  After imagining myself trying to maneuver that thing through the steep, narrow streets of St. John's and having to stop every hour to fill it up with gas, I decided to make my way back to the desk in search of the car I booked.  It took some convincing.  My argument of having booked and confirmed an economy car sent the booking agent in search of something that she first said wouldn't be available until the next morning.  I stood my ground and told her that was not acceptable.  Within thirty seconds, a smaller (but still slightly gas guzzling) Chevy Impala was suddenly available.  I think she sensed a confrontation brewing and just gave in.  I will say though, it was a very nice car.

If you have ever driven around the city of St. John's, you know it's not the easiest city to get around.  Lots of narrow, one-way streets and roundabouts that cause you to be hopelessly lost if you miss your turn-off.  Missing a turn-off usually means going around in circles and getting more lost while you try to find where you are supposed to be.  The new roundabout that I hit immediately upon leaving the airport did just that to me.  I eventually spotted some familiar landmarks and made my way downtown to find some food and coffee.  I settled on a bagel with cream cheese and small coffee at the Tim Horton's on Harvey Road just around the corner from my old apartment.  I noticed the landlord is finally doing repairs on the deathtrap of an outdoor staircase leading up to that apartment.  Only took him 15 years.  I drove to Topsail Beach, which was one of my favourite places to go when I lived in St. John's.  I ended up driving further than that while I enjoyed my coffee and tested the Impala.  By the time I returned to the city, I needed to stretch my legs so I drove down to Quidi Vidi Lake and walked around it just like I did every morning in years past.

I moved away from the city in 2011 and have taken up residence in a quieter, smaller, more remote area with little traffic.  Traffic moves quite slow and no one is in a hurry to get anywhere.  During my travels that day, I realized that I've become used to a slower pace of life as cars passed me with horns blaring and middle fingers flying.  I was consistently doing between 10 and 20 km's over the limit while cars blew by me.  Not a cop in site.  Doing 30 over the limit back home would net me a stunting fine of about 2400 bucks.  In St. John's, doing 30 or 40 over the limit on city streets is considered slow.

By the time I reached my friend's house where I would be staying the next few nights, I was exhausted.  After catching up after five years apart and watching some TV, we both turned in for the night.  Him to prepare for work the next day, me to prepare for more exploring and visiting old haunts.

I awoke early and headed out to do much of the same I did the day before.  I visited all of my old favourite places.  I went for my morning walk and than grabbed my morning coffee and drank it at one of my favourite places, Cuckold's Cove near Quidi Vidi Village.  Portugal Cove, Middle Cove, Torbay, Flat Rock, Fort Amherst, Cape Spear and Petty Harbour were among my stops over those 3 days.  One evening, just before sunset, I made the last minute decision to hike partially around Signal Hill and I was glad I did.  It was cool but just right for a refreshing hike.  I ventured downtown to Water St. and Duckworth and checked out another one of my old neighborhoods.  Surprisingly, not much changed in this area of the city.  It's the old area, the area with the colorful row houses you see on postcards and tourism commercials.  I love that neighborhood and I'm happy to see that it never really changes. 

Las Vegas Side Trips to the Valley of Fire State Park and Death Valley

If you're wondering how far is the Valley of Fire from the Las Vegas Strip, it's 50 miles away and takes about an hour to get there.  So it's a very doable side trip from Vegas.  

We got directions to the Valley of Fire, Nevada from our hotel’s front desk and made our way there without bothering to set the GPS this time. We arrived at our first destination with no problems and without getting lost. We spent about two hours in The Valley of Fire State Park, driving around, taking pictures and staring in awe at the stark color contrast between the rocks in the park and the ones everywhere else. The bright red made our white car stick out like a sore thumb! 

Before leaving the park, we stopped at the visitor’s center to get directions to our next destination, Death Valley. It was late morning by time we got on the right route. After narrowly escaping disaster after a wrong turn onto the multi-lane I-95, we got back on the right track and it was smooth sailing for the rest of the way.

If you're wondering how far is Death Valley from Las Vegas, it's about a 2 hour drive so it also makes for a great getaway from Las Vegas. That meant we would not have much time to spend there. Mid-afternoon, we finally arrived. We drove for a while until we found a suitable place to pull over and stretch our legs. 

We stopped at a look-off with a fantastic view. Expecting it to be as cold as it was everywhere else, we put on some sweaters and exited the car only to be nearly knocked out by the heat! Back into the car we went to trade our sweaters in for sunhats and sunscreen! We drove around the park for a few hours taking more pictures and stopping at various rest stops to walk around. We wanted to spend more time there but before we knew it, it was starting to get dark. So much for getting back to Vegas early. It was almost 10PM by time we returned the car to the airport terminal and shuttled back to our hotel. We grabbed a snack and headed to bed early, looking forward to the big adventure that awaited us the next morning; Hoover Dam and the Grand Canyon!