Some Fall Hiking in Sterling and Framboise

I never know where I'll end up when I go to Framboise with Dad.  There's always a new place to hike, a new beach or lake to see or a road I've never been down before.  

Last week, the weather called for a nice day on one of my days off and with winter approaching, I wanted to get out and enjoy the great outdoors.  That's why I said "yes" when Dad asked me to join him for a day of hiking in Framboise.

I love these little day trips with Dad.  We leave early, grab some breakfast and coffees somewhere along the way and make the long drive to this remote part of the island where it's just coastline and forest as far as you can see.

It was a little windy and cool that day so Dad suggested we do a hike in the Sterling which is away from the coast.  I haven't done a whole lot of hiking in that area and a walk in the woods with the leaves changing color sounded good to me!

We parked the car a little ways up a dirt road and started walking from there.  It was a nice, easy walk through some thick forest and at one point, we crossed a stream lined with colorful trees.  There wasn't a whole lot of water as we are going through a drought but it still made for a nice picture.   I stopped for a few minutes and took in the picturesque scene before me.  

About twenty minutes into the hike, we reached an old, abandoned farmhouse.  I love coming upon these sites and exploring the grounds while I imagine what it must have been like so many years ago when a young family thrived here.  It's sad to think that they are all gone and this is the legacy they left behind.  Somewhere, there are descendants of those people still living who likely don't even know that their distant relative's old homestead still stands.

The trail kept going a little ways beyond the homestead and when the brush became too thick to keep going, we turned around and headed back to the car.  

It was still early enough to do another hike so we went down the road to one that we had attempted a few years ago.  The last time we did this hike, the bridge was washed out.  This time, it was rebuilt and intact so we were able to cross and keep going much further than we did before.  In fact, we went so far that it was almost dark when we decided that we should turn around before we got caught hiking at night without flashlights.  

We were going to head home the way we came but I convinced Dad to go to St. Peter's and take the long way home via Route 4 along the Bras d'Or Lakes.  We grabbed some coffee for the road and made the long drive home.   

And Just Like....Summer is Almost Over for Another Year

It's been such a busy summer that I didn't have time to post about any of the wonderful things I've been doing!  I'm never home except to sleep or get ready for work.  Most days, I head out somewhere to do something immediately after work.  I pack a lunch, take it to work with me, store it in the fridge and it's fresh and ready to eat on the way to whatever adventure awaits.  No time wasted here.  Summer is short and I enjoy every moment of it.  That means my laptop is hardly ever turned on.   

It seems like just yesterday I was packing up my car with camping, swimming, hiking and paddling gear.  I finally broke down and bought an action camera to capture all the memories I knew were coming with all the things I had planned and family coming home from Alberta and I swapped my winter clothes and gear for warm weather adventures. And now it's the end of August already.  They say time flies when you're having fun.  I can certainly say that there's plenty of truth to this because I had an incredible summer.  

Summer was interesting in Cape Breton this year as we saw the province implement a very strict fire ban that also banned anyone from entering forested areas to prevent wild fires.  Nova Scotia and the rest of eastern Canada has seen some pretty big fires recently and one here would be devastating in so many ways.  

The extreme heat and dry conditions started early and I almost had to endure the entire summer with no air conditioning in my car!  Fortunately, I was able to get it fixed before I took any long road trips. While it was a bummer to not do any hiking, I found plenty of things to do outside the woods.  Paddleboarding on the Mira, swimming at Dominion, Black Brook and Ingonish beaches, scenic drives around the Cabot Trail and to Main-a-Dieu, roaming the streets and alleys of the Fortress of Louisbourg, hanging out in Iona with the family, riding the gondola at Cape Smokey, sunset walks by the ocean, swimming in my sister's pool, a long weekend in Margaree and Cheticamp, taking in the festivities at Festiville Baddeck, enjoying a visit from my sister who came all the way from Alberta and, of course, watching my little nephew growing up and learning new things. 

Although the calendar might say summer is winding down and signs of it are all around - leaves are starting to change, kids are heading back to school and the lifeguards and are on their final shifts at the beaches - I still have summer-like activities planned for weeks to come!  This weekend, I plan to go camping in the Highlands and I'm hoping for warm enough weather to do some swimming at some of my favourite beaches.  Paddleboarding on the Mira is done for the year but I'm thinking of trying out the dragon boat paddling that's being offered nearby.  When the woods reopens, I hope to get to the top of the gondola at Cape Smokey in Ingonish to do some hiking, kayaking and biking.  In mid-September, I'm taking a road trip to Mahone Bay.  

The only thing missing this summer and the one I will miss the most if it doesn't happen is my annual camping trip in Framboise with Dad.  Because of the fire ban, we were unable to go.  If it lifts very soon, we might get a late-summer trip in but it doesn't look good.  Dad doesn't like camping later in the summer as the nights get too cold.  If the fire ban doesn't get lifted in the next couple of weeks, I might convince him to just suck it up and camp in the Provincial campground in St. Peters for the night.  At least we can say we got out and we are close to all the things we like doing in that area. 

 

Hiking Season has Officially Started

Well, hiking season has officially started.  I mean, I've been on a few hikes lately but yesterday was the first real big hike of the season.  

It was originally planned as a fishing trip with Dad and that's how it started.  We drove to Framboise and stopped at all the little brooks along the way.  The fish weren't biting much but when we finally reached our limit of five, we found a nice place with a view of the ocean to enjoy our lunch.  

After lunch and tea, we walked along Ferguson Beach until we came to the river and than went to Grand River Beach where we did the same.  It was warm and mostly sunny so the weather certainly cooperated.  

The fresh air was just what I needed after suffering with yet another cold.  Clear lungs and a full day in the fresh air of Framboise was just what I needed for a much needed sleep.

After our hikes, we drove to St. Peter's, grabbed a coffee and went home the back way through Forchu and Gabarus hoping to see a deer.  Instead we saw two bald eagles and a few hawks.  

I already have so many grand plans for summer.  This is just the first of many adventures to come! 

 

Another Family-Favourite Fall Tradition

I love fall adventures.  The flies are gone and the weather is cooled down enough to make hiking tolerable.  This is my favourite time of year to be in the forest and one of my favourite places to hike in the fall is at Uisge Bàn Falls in Big Baddeck.  Since I moved back home, it's been a family favourite.  I usually suggest it and whoever wants to come with me tags along.  Sometimes it's dad.  Sometimes it's my sister.  Sometimes it's both sisters if they are both home from away at the time.  Sometimes it's all four of us and sometimes friends and partners tag along. This year, everyone was either sick or busy with other things so I called a friend and we did the hike alone. 

I was supposed to meet my friend at her trailer at the Joyful Journeys Campground in Jersey Cove but the lineup at the Englishtown Ferry was very long!  I would have been there for close to an hour.  Instead, I had her get the ferry on her side because it looked like there were no cars there.  Within ten minutes she arrived at my car and hopped out of hers and into mine and off we went to Baddeck. 

As we drove, we contemplated not doing the hike because it kept raining.  A shower would arrive and we'd decide to go for a drive instead.  The shower would stop and we would decide to go on the hike instead.  This happened several times before we arrived at the Uisge Bàn Falls Provincial Park.  

We got out of the car and got ready for the hike.  We got that far so there was no turning back.  We could still see the parking lot when the skies opened up again.  We kept going.  It didn't stop raining the entire hike but fortunately, the thick canopy provided some shelter from the heaviest rains. 

I was surprised to see so much water in the river as we didn't get a whole lot of rain all summer.  The fall colours were spectacular as they always are along this hike and the rustling leaves made for a relaxing afternoon in the great outdoors.  There were a few people on the trail but we mostly had it all to ourselves. At the falls, we stopped for a rest and some photos and I was surprised to see so much water there too!  

The rain didn't put too much of a damper on our hike and back at the car, neither one of us was ready to call it a day yet.  We took a drive to the Red Barn and turned off on the road to Middle River.  The fall colours are always nice on this stretch and that day was no exception.  Stunning as always!  

A Fall Hike in Ben Eoin

It's fall and that means I've traded my swimsuit and flip flops for long sleeves and hiking boots. It's the time of year when it's still warm enough to be outdoors enjoying the fresh air. It's the time of year when I head to the trails and enjoy time in the forests, mountains and rugged coastlines of Cape Breton Island.

My first real hike of the season was a fairly short one.  I didn't plan to hike that day.  I was out for a drive on a nice Saturday afternoon when I spotted a picnic park in Ben Eoin.  I pulled in to have my lunch and noticed a sign for a hiking trail.  It looked quite steep.  I was tired.  I pondered the idea of hiking up a mountain.  On one hand I didn't really feel like tackling such an exhaustive-looking feat.  On the other hand, it was nice out, the views were amazing, the fall colors were out and I had never hiked this trail before.  There were way more reasons to push myself than to just drive away having turned down an opportunity to spend some time in the forest.  So I went for it. 

It was warm enough to wear just a t-shirt and although it looked like it might rain, I didn't care.  It was warm enough that I risked it so I didn't have to carry a heavy rain jacket up the mountain and back. 

The trail was well-maintained and fairly easy except that there were lots of old roots that created tripping hazards and some parts were quite steep. I kept a steady pace to gain momentum going up the hills but hiked slowly enough to take in everything around me.  A woodpecker pecking at some bugs on a tree.  Two squirrels fighting over an acorn.  The trees rustling in the gentle breeze.  The sun casting it's rays through the canopy.  The smell of rotting leaves.  

It took about a half hour to reach the top of the mountain where there was a clearing overlooking the Bras d'Or Lakes.  The walk down the hill was a little difficult at the steep parts but I made it down in good time before the rain started.  

I continued on with my afternoon drive and kept going up Route 4 to St. Peter's and onto Isle Madame.  I took a wrong turn on the island and ended up in another part of Cape Breton that I had never been to before and made a mental note to return to explore it more thoroughly.  I took a drive through the Lennox Passage Provincial Park and thought it would be a nice place to stop and enjoy lunch on my future return visit to the area. 

I just can't get enough of Cape Breton and I'll never stop exploring it!  More fall adventures to come!

Recapturing Childhood Memories at Broad Cove Campground

Broad Cove. Just the mere mention of this place brings back memories from long ago.  From a time when I camped there with friends and we roamed those grounds late into the night doing what kids did back than and what I wish kids would do more of now.  From a time when I was a teenager and my parents parked a used RV in the trailer section during the summers and I would travel back and forth in my '89 Honda Accord to enjoy the last few summers I had left before heading off to college in another province. 

Every year for as long as I can remember, I've spent at least a few days at Broad Cove Campground. For weeks leading up to this past summer, I tried to book two nights at my favorite campsite but it kept saying it was booked all season.  I waited it out and hoped the spot would open up later in the season.  And that it did!  In mid-August, I was able to snatch the site up and book it for my yearly stay at my childhood summer playground. 

I arrived at my site late morning and got started setting up camp right away so I could enjoy the rest of the day without worrying about setting set up later in the dark with the flies. 

After everything was set up, I relaxed for a bit on my beach chair with a book.  When my energy returned, I went for a drive towards Ingonish, grabbed some food, ate it on a picnic table at North Bay Beach and walked that long stretch of sand.  After a drive to Ingonish Beach and the Keltic Lodge, I returned to my campsite just before nightfall.  I changed into some warmer clothes and headed out for a walk around the sprawling grounds, remembering the days when I was young and my friends and I roamed the forest and paths. Hearing children and seeing them running and playing hide and seek made me happy to see that at least some kids were still enjoying the great outdoors! 

I walked around the trailer section first and than headed to the beach at the far end of the campground.  This is one of favourite places to be at night.  A wide open space right on the ocean.  As I stood and took in the sparkling night sky before me, a yellow glow appeared on the horizon.  A full moon was rising.  I stayed longer than I intended.  I'm not one to miss a moon rising over the ocean.  I don't see things like this at my house in town. 

I didn't need my flashlight as I walked back to my tent because the moon was so bright, it lit the way!  Back at camp, I opened a cold beer and sat in my chair and watched the night sky some more before turning in for the night.  While most people don't sleep all that well in a tent, I sleep like a log!  And that night, I slept right through the night without waking!

I Finally Learned to Paddleboard

Ever since I first watched my sister paddleboarding on lakes in the Rocky Mountains of Alberta, I wanted to try it.  It was only this summer that I finally got that chance.  

I from many people that it was super hard but I knew I wouldn't find it as hard as most people who try it for the first time because I have experience surfing and kayaking. 

I wasn't ready to go out and buy a paddleboard without knowing if it was something I wanted to do or not so when I overheard some people at work talking about lessons at the Mira Provincial Park, I had to learn more. 

Long story short, I signed up for a lesson, headed out to Mira after work one fine evening in July, learned the basics before paddleboarding for an hour on the Mira River and fell in love!  With paddleboarding that is.  While I love surfing and kayaking, by the end of the summer, I realized that I actually like paddleboarding even more! 

I left work and drove to Mira almost every Thursday evening to hone my paddling skills. I surprised myself and was able to stand up on the board the very first night, but not for long.  By the end of the summer, I was an old pro, paddling out further and further each time and getting strong and more stable on the board.  On the last night, I stood up on the board the entire lesson!

Most evenings were calm on the water but there was one that stood out from the rest for being particularly windy and choppy.  I didn't have any difficulty paddling out but coming back was another story!  No matter how much I paddled, I just couldn't get the board to turn around to head back to shore.  I just kept drifting out toward the island.  The instructor yelled directions to me to try but nothing worked and eventually, I had to be towed in.  Let me tell you, I got quite the workout that evening!  I was exhausted when I got to shore but was glad to have gotten a lesson in what can happen when high winds come up!

I think it's pretty safe to say that I will be attending these lessons next summer too if they're offered.  Or maybe I will just go out and buy a board of my own!

The Wildlife of Kananaskis Country

While visiting with my sister and seeing her new-to-me place was a priority during my trip to Alberta, the mountains and scenery were a welcome bonus!  But there was something else that drew me to the remote area of Kananaskis and that's the wildlife.  "There are deer, elk, bears and bighorn sheep everywhere" was all I heard from anyone who was familiar with the region and I certainly wasn't disappointed on this trip when it came to the abundance of wildlife. 

As soon as we turned off the Trans Canada onto the Kananaskis Trail, we saw three deer and several bighorn sheep.  While unpacking, I heard stories from my sister and her partner about animal encounters in the area.  A neighbor's dog was injured in a cougar attack, a grizzly bear wandered through the backyard in broad daylight and black bears raided some nearby campsites. 

The second day I was there, I saw three black bears.  One mamma bear and her cub eating in someone's backyard and a huge black bear walking down a remote road. Later that same day as we watched from on top of a hill overlooking the golf course, a very large grizzly bear walked around an area where several golfers were teeing off nearby. I don't think they had any idea that the bear was in the area and the bear didn't seem to be bothered by the activity nearby. 

I was a little afraid to drive by myself after my sister went back to work.  There were so many animals wandering onto the road at all hours of the day, I was scared I would hit one and damage her car or one of the sheep would turn and attack the car as I tried to get by them.  Those bighorn sheep like to block traffic and honking, waving and yelling does nothing to get them to move any quicker or budge an inch so you can get by.  They move when they feel like it.  Sometimes they move and several others will run out of the woods from the other side and sometimes they turn around and look like they are going to start kicking or head bunting the car. 

Here at home, the whitetail deer either run out in front of cars or stand in the middle of the road.  They are constantly getting hit!  But in Kananaskis, the deer just stayed in the ditch nibbling on grass.  I didn't see any on the road at all.  

Grey squirrels are certainly plentiful in Kananaskis but it was there strange behavior that caught my attention.  In the mornings, the little squirrels were lined up along the highway on their hind legs and facing the sun.  Not sure why they were doing this but it was definitely a cute and funny thing to see.

Although I had seen a grizzly on the golf course, it was so far away, I couldn't get a decent picture.  I kept hoping to see another one from a safe but closer distance and I finally did get that chance.  I dropped my sister off at work and drove to the entrance of Peter Lougheed Provincial Park.  I noticed a car pulled over to the side of the road and two people with cameras looking in a grassy area.  I scanned the area looking for whatever it was that caught their attention and there it was; a large grizzly bear calmly eating some grass and making it's way across the field to a little stream. 

 

Hiking Along Cape Breton's Coal Town Trail

I've hiked many trails around Cape Breton, mostly in the Highlands National Park and around Victoria County but in recent years, I've made a point of trying out some of the trails closer to home, namely the ones close to my hometown of New Waterford and around the Cape Breton Regional Municipality. 

I've posted many times about my hiking adventures on the turbine road in The Gardiner and recently I crossed Gardiner Road and ventured alone the trail that leads to The Sandbar Restaurant in Dominion.  Yesterday, I decided to pick up on that trail where I left off and see how far I get along the Coal Town Trail on the leg that travels from that restaurant and into the other nearby communities of Bridgeport and Glace Bay. 

I went to work as usual and when my request for half a personal day was approved, I headed out at noon to pick up a friend and parked the car near the trailhead. I was excited at the fact that I had no idea what to expect along the way.  This is what I love about hiking new trails!

There was no wind but it wasn't a warm day by any means.  Below zero but comfortable with the sun peaking out here and there and our warm weather gear keeping us warm.  We hadn't walked far at all when we spotted out first nature sighting.  We heard it before we saw it.  High up in a tree was a woodpecker pecking away at a tree trunk! 

The trail started off in a kind of woodsy area but eventually opened up into a more urban landscape.  Sure there were fields, trees and streams but the backs of houses were only feet away from the trail in some spots.  Despite this, it was surprisingly calm and quiet except for the odd dog barking as we passed a little too close.  There were horses too and some fantastic ocean views from the higher elevations. 

We walked and walked and walked.  We crossed main roads and walked along quaint neighborhoods that I didn't even know existed.  After we walked for about two hours, we pondered turning around but curiosity got the better of us and we kept going around another bend to see what was next.  And than another bend and another....until we reached a dog park and a large pond with some benches.  We stopped for a rest and when the wind shifted and the air started to cool as the sun started to set, we turned back and made the long journey back to the car.  

It was dark and cold when we got back but also energized from all the fresh air and exercise.  It was decided right than and there that I would take another early day soon but next day we would park by that pond where we ended our hike and start up again there as the trail keeps going beyond that point.  I never leave a trail unfinished and this one will be no exception!

A Late Autumn Hike to Uisge Ban Falls

There's something about late fall hikes.  The cool air, the light snow flurries, the intermittent sun peaking behind those heavy, fluffy fall clouds and the lack of flies and other annoying insects.  I mean, yes, you have to bundle up and trek through some mud and slippery fallen leaves, but the air is crisp and light with temperatures that aren't so hot that you walk at a snail's pace and not so cold that you're too stiff to move. 

The day my friend and I took a hike to Uisge Ban Falls near Baddeck, we experienced such a day.  A perfect day we'll call it.  There was hardly anyone else hiking that day so that was an added bonus.  I like being in the woods without crowds of people to disrupt the peace and quiet so I can hear the trees rustling, the birds chirping and the raging waters of the river and waterfall. 

The trail isn't all that long but we stretched it out for two hours, stopping to take photos and admire the views along the way.  We reached those beautiful falls and just hung around there for a while taking in the sights and sounds of nature before heading back to civilization. 

Our hike was followed by a walk around of the nature campground that I never noticed was in this park before and a delicious lunch at a cafe along the highway.  Winter is approaching fast and I'm hoping to get as many days in like this as possible before we are snowed in!

The May Long Weekend means Summer is Here....Even if it is Unofficial!

I'm not used to having vacation time from work.  For the first time in my life, I have a job that comes with such a luxury and despite feeling a tad guilty for requesting a day off even though I wasn't sick, I went ahead and took one of those days that my managing team has assured me are there for me to use and not waste!  I'm just not used to not being at the office when I'm feeling completely fine.  I took that day which made my long weekend extra long this year; 5 glorious days just relaxing, doing things I enjoy and spending time with the people I just don't get to spend enough time with as of late. 

Thursday wasn't all that exciting. My car broke down earlier in the week so it spend that whole day in the shop.  I spent the day catching up on housecleaning bill-paying. Friday morning I got some troubling news; the part I needed for the car repairs still hadn't come in.  All good.  I ended up going with Dad to Framboise for the day and was reassured by my mechanic that it would be fixed time I got back that evening! 

Framboise with Dad is a long-weekend tradition since I moved back home. The weather can be hit or miss on that side of the island.  It was mostly nice but very windy and cool that day...good for keeping the flies away while fishing...bad for casting in little roadside brooks.  After getting massively tangled in branches and rocks, I did manage to reel in a few decent-sized trout. 

After a day of fishing, hiking and exploring, we rested on Ferguson Beach by the river that meets the sea.  Sometimes at low tide, we can cross there but on this day, the tide was fairly high and the river had the passage completely blocked.  Being too cold to remove our shoes and wade across, we sat on some driftwood on the sandy banks where we were sheltered from the wind and cracked open a beer each. I don't normally drink, but I do like a beer on the beach from time to time!  As per normal on these trips, we drove up to St. Peter's, got a coffee and drove back...except this time, we went the other way through L'Ardoise and Point Michaud rather than taking the way we came. 

I had planned to get my bike out of storage and go for a ride followed by an afternoon spent cleaning my car and sorting my camping gear.  That evening when I got back from Framboise, I checked the weather and saw that it would be too windy for a bike ride. I also decided that I didn't feel like cleaning my car.  That could wait.  My friend who sets up her travel trailer in Englishtown every May long weekend invited me to take a drive there and pay her a visit. I only live once right?  Why spend the first unofficial weekend of summer cleaning?  

So Saturday morning, I went for morning coffee with Dad, paid a quick visit to my sister and her family, got some snacks ready and hit the road.  It's not that far to Englishtown, about an hour and a half.  But it's the just getting out of town and heading out into the country that made it sound so appealing.  I don't do enough mini road trips anymore and the driving conditions were perfect!  Sunny and warm enough to cruise with the sunroof and windows open and the music up loud! 

I arrived at my friend's trailer late in the afternoon but it was still warm enough to sit outside and enjoy the natural surroundings and take in that fresh ocean air.  After some catching up, we took a drive to a nearby hiking trail and set out to check it out.  We had been saying for years we would check out this trail but never did.  It was too long to do the whole thing but we hiked about 4 kilometers in until we reached a scenic outlook and turned back.  It was nice to get out in nature and hear birds and sit by a babbling brook.  I almost fell asleep listening to the sound of that brook as I sat beside it just taking it all in.  

Instead of going straight home that evening, I made a little detour to Dominion Beach. I didn't intend to walk that night but I ended up walking the entire beach and back.  Maybe it was out of habit as I walk it so much or maybe it was just because it was such a nice evening. I also think I was secretly hoping to catch a glimpse of some baby foxes I suspected were born further up the beach earlier in the spring.  They usually come out around this time but, despite keeping an eye for them, I saw no foxes at all.

I was about ten feet away from my car when I spotted something small run at top speed under the boardwalk.  I walked over to the spot where I saw whatever it was a second earlier and a little head popped out then a little fox kit appeared at my feet!  What a surprise! But where was his mom? And his siblings?  Surely there couldn't be just one kit alone so close to the road.  Sure enough, mom appeared and sat about 30 feet away as her kit checked me out.  She wasn't at all threatened by my presence or at her little one inching so close to me.  No other kits appeared so I suspect he may be an only child.  It was a nice experience to have a wild animal take such an interest in me but I'm concerned about Mom keeping her young one so close to people and cars. 

By Sunday morning, my job feels like a distant memory.  I'm just not used to having this much time off! Instead of getting up and getting ready for work, I got up and got ready for another day of hiking!  Of course, I went for coffee with Dad first. After all, this has been a morning tradition since I moved back to Cape Breton! Before I met my friends at the trailhead in the Gardiner, I stopped off at the beach to check on the little fox kit.  He was still there playing with a stick all by himself with mom watching a little ways away. 

I hike the road where the wind turbines are in the Gardiner all the time but always wondered where the trail on the other side of the highway went.  So I recruited a couple of friends to come check it out. We started out, us and an adorable little beagle pup, and walked into the unknown.  It was a warm day but very windy.  Not that I should complain about the wind because it kept the flies away! For a trail in the middle of a residential area, it certainly didn't seem that way! It was quiet with lots of trees, some streams and hardly any other people...just the I like my hikes. It was nice to be able to get out in nature without having to drive a few hours to get there!

Monday felt like Sunday but it was Monday and that meant come Tuesday, I'll only have a 4-day work week! I was tired but refreshed and ready to go back but I had every intention of making good use of my last day.  After morning coffee and a drive, I cleaned my car and got my bike out for the first time this year.  I didn't go for a long ride but one long enough to get my legs used to riding again.  It was nice to have that cool ocean air hitting my face again as I sped down the highway. I have to say, I made good use of my time off and got a lot done....both things I had to get done and things I wanted to do for a long time but didn't have the chance.  The next long one will be Canada Day which hopefully will bring some warmer temperatures and conditions ideal for more outdoor adventures!

An Amazing Day at Point Michaud Beach

I love Point Michaud.  After all, it's a long, sandy beach in a remote area of beautiful Cape Breton Island and there's nothing I love more than a long, sandy beach all to myself. But, there is one thing I don't love about this beach in particular; the water is always cold!

When I go to Point Michaud Beach, it's to sit in the sand and watch the waves or to walk the many kilometers along its shore. The couple of times I tried to swim there, it was just way too cold.  Sure, many people do swim there but they are local people who are used to the cooler waters of the south coast and many times, they are wearing wetsuits. I'm used to the warm waters of Dominion Beach and Inverness Beach.  Point Michaud Beach is more suited to the surfers who come from all over to surf the ideal conditions the beach is known for.  Sometimes the waves get quite big. I don't surf.  I also don't even put my toes in the water at Point Michaud Beach.  

Than, one day I made a last-minute visit to Point Michaud.  I was camping down the road with my father and when we parted ways to head home, I stopped at the beach to see an old friend who happened to be there that day.  It was a warm sunny day, but I didn't have high hopes of going for a swim.  

"Did you bring your swimsuit?  The water is lovely!" was the greeting I received as my old friend embraced me in the parking lot.   I must have looked at her like she was crazy because she responded with "no really, the water is the warmest It's ever been!".  I had my doubts but I changed into my swimsuit anyway.  I sat on the beach in the warm sun, delaying my entry into what I expected to be chilly water.  When my friend's young granddaughter ran to the water's edge and walked nonchalantly into the water like it was nothing, I began to think that maybe my friend wasn't exaggerating about the water temperature after all.  

I walked to the water's edge and watched the little girls jump and dive and splash around. The water was so clear.  I'd never seen it so clear before!  I slipped my sandals off and dipped my toes in the water.  It felt very warm but I knew that wasn't enough to gauge how warm it would be further out.  I slowly entered the water inch by inch.  It didn't get colder.  Eventually I was up to my waist in warm water that is usually the norm for the other side of the island.  I ducked and surprisingly, it wasn't a shock because, lo and behold, the water was so warm!  

I stayed in that water for over an hour riding the gentle waves, watching the surfers riding waves on their boards nearby.  Even in water over my head, it was clear, I could see straight to the bottom.  It was almost like swimming in the Caribbean Sea.  I'd never seen such beautiful conditions at Point Michaud before and boy, was I glad I took my swimsuit along on that camping trip! When the clouds rolled in and the air cooled, the water stayed warm but I knew it was time to get out of the water and dry off before the rain came. 

The rain did come just as I was driving along the coast headed for home.  I made a little detour to St. Peters to grab a coffee for the road and made that long, scenic drive down Route 4 along the Bras d'Or Lakes.  I'll never assume that the water is always cold at Point Michaud again because I hope to have a repeat of that amazing day next summer and every summer after!

A Time-Honored Tradition

I have many traditions.  I guess you could say I'm just a traditional person.  I often reminisce because I have so many great memories and I've been lucky to have had many different experiences.  One of the events I look forward to now year after year is not something I always did. No, it's not something from my childhood or from my college days.  It's a tradition that started not long after I moved back home after being away in another province for more than a decade. This year was year seven for this special tradition.

I love camping.  My father loves camping. I love the great outdoors.  My father loves the great outdoors. I tend to head to Ingonish in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park to camp.  Dad tends to head to Framboise on the south coast of the island to do his camping. Somewhere along the line, we came up with the idea that we should do a father-daughter camping trip.  We chose a lovely, remote spot on top of a hill overlooking the ocean at Ferguson Beach near Framboise.  That was over 4 years ago.  This summer, we embarked on our seventh annual father-daughter camping trip to that exact same spot. 

We had planned to go earlier this year because our previous trips were taken in late August and early September when the nights are cold and damp. However, due to the extreme heat and humidity we experienced this past summer, the trip ended taken place at roughly the same time as usual.  Fortunately, there was a couple of days of clear skies, zero precipitation and warm nights forecast for the last week in August so we jumped at the opportunity and weren't disappointed with the outcome!

There's only one thing I don't like about our camping spot; lugging all our gear up that hill!  But, I have to say, the effort definitely pays off.  The views are spectacular and leaving the car at the bottom of the hill far from our site gives a feel of roughing it in the middle of nowhere.  Just the way I like my camping!

Once we have all our gear on the hill, we get to work.  Dad likes to get everything set up before doing anything else so the hardest part is out of way so we can relax for the rest of the trip.  I agree. Nothing worse than setting up a tent at dusk with the flies eating you alive!

It took a little longer to get set up than usual and this time, it was my fault!  Missing tent pegs and even missing parts from various tents.  I don't have a lot of space at my little apartment to lay things out and get organized.  I took my camping gear out from under the bed back in June and put in the trunk of my car .  I assumed all the parts were there.  Instead, I had 4 tents and various parts for 4 different tents but none of the tents had all their parts. Catch my drift?  I had to improvise and this came after I had set up and tore down all four tents.  It turned out ok but we suffered sunburns and horsefly attacks during the ordeal!

 There was still plenty of daylight left after we had a quick lunch. We were tired and worn out from working in the sun so we went for a drive along the coast to see if we could spot any wildlife or see if anyone was fishing in the brooks. Not a soul around except for road workers but we did spot a hawk and a bald eagle. 

 With sunset approaching, we decided to take a quick hike up the beach before getting the fire ready and settling in for the night with some beer, snacks and stargazing. We only made it so far because the tide was high and we were unable to cross to the other side of the stream that opens up to the ocean.  When the tide is low, there's very little water in this stream, but such was not the case on this day! We sat for a bit and listened to the ocean and the seals that were making a lot of noise on a nearby island. The island is quite a distance away but when the wind blows the right way, you can hear what sounds like hundreds of them barking. 

Back at camp, the sun was just starting to set.  I took a seat on my beach chair to get ready to enjoy the show.  Waves rolling ashore, a gentle, warm breeze and a roaring fire under a clear, star-lit sky.  It doesn't get much better than that!

I slept like a baby that night. I don't know if it was the soothing nature sounds that lulled me into a deep sleep or the fact that it was so warm that night.  I fell asleep quickly and didn't wake up until the crack of dawn. 

For once, it wasn't cold and damp first thing in the morning!  That's one of my least favourite things about camping! I took an early morning stroll to the shore to watch the sun come up and listen to the birds chirping.  These are things I can't enjoy at home so I cherish them every chance I get! Before I poured my cereal into a bowl, I went down over the hill where I spotted a lush blueberry patch the day before.  I scoped up a handful to jazz up my otherwise plain bowl of cereal. I could live outdoors!

We took another walk along the shore in the other direction and sat by the river in the sun while we enjoyed some cold beers.  Tearing down the tents is always faster than putting them up so, in no time, we had everything packed up and in the cars.  We always part this way; Dad heads towards Framboise to look for wildlife and fish the brooks and I head towards St. Peter's for coffee.  On this day, the temperatures were climbing into the mid-20s so I took the long way and made a stop at Point Michaud Beach.  I rarely swim at this beach as the water temperature is usually much colder than what I'm used to on this side of Cape Breton Island. However, on this day, the water temperature was a beautiful 21 degrees Celsius.  I spotted a friend walking through the parking lot and she confirmed it for me; "the water is lovely with a gentle wave". Good thing I brought my swimsuit!  

She was right, the water was lovely. I stayed in for about an hour and reluctantly dried off when the air started to cool in the late afternoon. Well, I think you know by now what came next if you've been following this blog and my trips to Framboise!  Coffee in St Peter's and the long drive home on Route 4 along the scenic Bras d'Or Lakes.  Another one ticked off my summer 2022 bucket list. 

A Hike Down The Long Road to Caplin Cove

Another Great Cape Breton Hiking Adventure Before the Summer Heat

But First, the Long Drive on that Familiar (and Bumpy) Road - The Fleur de Lis Trail

I know that road in rural Cape Breton like the back of my hand.  Probably not as well as my father knows it as he's been driving it weekly for the past 60-some years, but I know it quite well. On this particular day, driving along the Fleur de Lis Trail from the exit from the Sydney Bypass (or 125 as it's often referred to), through Marion Bridge, Gabarus, Forchu, Framboise St, Esprit, L'Archeveque and Grand River felt like deja vu because I had just done the exact same drive less than a week earlier.

Again, I met my friend in the parking lot of the big church in Grand River and we drove together to Caplin Cove. Well, not exactly to Caplin Cove but to the road leading to Caplin Cove. The road is not well-traveled which means it's in very poor condition. We drove a little bit and when the conditions deteriorated, we parked and hiked the rest of the way. But that was the intention of the day anyway; to go hiking!

A Long, Difficult Trek to the Coast

I hoped we would be able to drive in at least a kilometer or two before the road got bad.  I knew the road was about 7 kilometers in so that would make the trek 14 kilometers total and I wasn't sure if we would have the time.  Alas, we had no choice.  My car wasn't going any further on that road! 

We coated ourselves in sunscreen and bug spray and grabbed our gear and a few beers to have on the beach when we arrived and headed off on that old wood road into the unknown. 

The walking was good for a while and then I saw it in the distance; a huge puddle.  Actually, it was more like a lake right in the middle of the road. I just knew by the size of it and how it went clear across the entire road that we have to do some bushwhacking to get around this one. We carefully made our way through the bushes ad swarms of flies and emerged with wet feet, bug bites and branches stuck in our hair. I hoped this would be the only such obstacle we would face.  Boy, was I wrong. 

Long story short, there ended up being 18 more large puddles like this, some even worse.  After several hours of navigating around them, we emerged at the coast soaking wet, full of mud and covered in bug bites.  

 

Was it worth it?

Despite being tired and battered, I instantly knew we made the right decision to do this hike when I laid eyes on the beautiful scene before me.  I forgot how beautiful this rugged, remote coast was and just wanted to see what was beyond every bend! But first, we needed to rest.  I pulled two Alexander Keith's out of my backpack and we sat barefoot in the soft sand and enjoyed some cold beer.

When we felt sufficiently rested, we started hiking to the left side of the beach.  One bald eagle.  Two bald eagles. Three...four...five...six bald eagles!  Seems that we happened onto a bald eagle colony.  There were old ones and young ones, perhaps generations of a family not used to seeing people in their peaceful, remote hideaway. 

The wind was strong enough that I could feel a cool mist coming off the ocean as I trekked around bend after bend, curious to know what was behind each one.  We found a little beach at a point where it didn't look like a good idea to go any further and ate our lunch. Because it took so long to hike to Caplin Cove and we still had a long hike back, we had to cut our visit short to be out before dark. I took one last look at that incredible vista knowing that it could be another ten years before I lay eyes on it again. 

The Long Walk Back to Civilization 

If getting around the large puddles wasn't hard enough, the mosquitoes were out in full force as w started the journey back to the car. I always said it seems like the hike back is always quicker than the hike there. Fortunately, this seemed to be the case on this hike!  Or perhaps we just learned how to better navigate those puddles. 

In what seemed like no time, we were back in one piece despite being sunburned, bitten and exhausted. I dropped my friend off at her car and, following tradition, took the long way home with a detour through St. Peters where I grabbed a Timmie's coffee for the road. Now, onto swimming season.  Hiking will take a backseat until late September but I'm looking forward to two months of sand, sun and vitamin sea!

Summer Has Arrived in Cape Breton!

 

Outdoor Adventures, Sunburns and Bug Bites 

Enjoying some Hiking in the first Days of Summer Before it gets too Hot

Summer is finally here on Cape Breton Island but it's still cool enough to enjoy a few hikes before it gets too hot and my outings turn into lazy beach days swimming in the cool Atlantic Ocean rather than days trekking through the woods in the hot sun. 

Hiking in the summer is doable but the combination of heat, sun and bugs can make it unbearable at times.  I prefer to save my big hikes for the late spring and fall.  Recently I embarked on two amazing hikes; one to a location I had never hiked before and the other to a location I haven't hiked in many years and have been longing to get back to.

But First, Lunch

The first hike was supposed to be to the place that I had been before but that day turned out to be too windy for a coastal hike.  I met my friend in the parking lot of the church in Grand River, Richmond County.  Past Gabarus, Forchu and Framboise but before Point Michaud and St. Peter's for those of you are vaguely familiar with the area.  For those of you who aren't, it's in southern part of Cape Breton Island in an area off-the-beaten-tourist-path. 

We turned onto a remote gravel road and parked by a very old farmhouse because it looked like a nice spot to have our lunch before heading out on the hike. We sat near the weather-worn steps of the old homestead.  

The house had to be close to 150 years old. I doubt anyone has been inside since the family packed up and vacated it many, many moons ago, no doubt for better employment opportunities in a big city somewhere in New England, Ontario or western Canada. Perhaps their grandchildren and great-grand-children don't even know the old property still exists.  The treasures they would find within!  A part of their heritage if only they knew about it! After tea and sandwiches, we walked around the old property and found some interesting old farming equipment and some things we weren't quite sure what they were. 

 

Exploring a New-to-me Trail

The trailhead for the hike of the day was only a short distance up this gravel road.  We parked and hiked into the forest.  I had no idea how long the trail was and there really wasn't any point in asking my friend because every trail is "just a short one" even if it's 10 or 20 kilometers long. I was ok with that.  I had nowhere to be, I had nothing planned for that evening and I was just itching to spend a day in the woods.  After the long winter and the stress of the pandemic, this was long overdue! I didn't care if it took two hours or 20 hours, I was game. 

We walked. And walked some more. All the while catching up on gossip and what has been going on in our lives since we last embarked on a hike the previous fall.  The weather was ideal for hiking.  Warm enough to not need a jacket and cool enough to be comfortable. There was a lovely, steady breeze that kept the flies at bay and the odd light rain shower which were welcome refreshments. 

Finding Paradise By A Lake

Eventually we arrived at a lake where we thought we would sit and enjoy a cold beer. There was nowhere comfortable to sit and the flies were bad near the water so we moved on to the next one.  The next lake was perfect!  There was a little shelter with some seats and a nice breeze that kept the flies away.  

There was a slight but constant ripple on the lake and a haze that the sun's rays just barely poked through.  The trees rustled in that gentle breeze and the sound lulled me into a relaxed state.  The beer also helped. The stillness of the world around me in that moment was so peaceful and the sounds were like the ones you hear on those relaxing yoga soundtracks that city dwellers meditate to after spending 2 hours in rush hour city traffic after a long day at work...but this was the real thing . 

There was no sign of the owners of the nearby boat ramp or the little shelter we were occupying. I'm sure if they magically appeared, they wouldn't mind two women sitting down for a cold one. Around here, they'd probably pull out a chair, start a fire, take out some guitars and invite us to stick around for some more.  But, we were fine just the way we were and for about an hour, we just sat there and took in as much of those sights and sounds as we could. 

We walked for a few more kilometers before reaching an old building perched up high on an embankment.  If we weren't really looking at everything so intently, we might have missed it.  It was dark-coloured and tucked behind some big trees. My friend tried to access it from one end and found a way in.  I went to the other side to check it out but got stuck in some trees and couldn't go any further.  It seemed to be some sort of old workshop.  Like, really old.  Perhaps over 100 years old. I'm not too keen on entering old buildings like that.  I'm always afraid they floor will give out!  I passed on the opportunity to go inside.  

 

The Home Stretch

We reached the third lake on this hike and took a little break before finishing the last leg of the trail. It was after 6 in the evening when we got back to the car.  The flies were just starting to bite and a heavy rain shower was moving in.  Just in time.  

We parted ways but headed in the same direction.  Instead of leaving the way I came, I took the long way home and made a detour through St. Peter's where I grabbed a Tim's coffee and took my time driving home along the Bras d'Or Lakes. Midway home, I started feeling a burning sensation in my shoulders and my skin was hot to touch.  I pulled over to inspect my "injuries". Sunburn. Great. My advice to you: wear sunscreen when hiking even if it's cloudy and drizzly!