August Long Weekend on the West Coast of Cape Breton

One of the highlights of every summer since I moved home is the long weekend in August which is usually spent in Cap LeMoine, Cape Breton.  

Back when I first started working at the place I still work at to this day, I met a good friend who had a family place on the west coast of the island and I've been in love with the area ever since the first time we went almost 15 years ago.  

The weather always seems to be nice around this time every year and this year was no exception.  The only downfall was the fire and woods ban that meant we couldn't go any hiking or venture into any wooded areas.  No big deal.  Thrift shopping, beach hopping and sunset chasing kept us busy all weekend.

The house we stayed at this year had a huge deck where we could watch sunsets and meteor showers.  We searched for the northern lights but didn't see any this year.  Just sitting out on that deck on those warm, dark nights in the country was enough for me!

We arrived late afternoon the first day and unpacked and grabbed some food in Cheticamp.  I always sleep so well in the country with the summer breeze coming in through the window and the natural sounds lulling me to sleep. 

Mornings are equally nice and that first morning, I got quite the treat when I walked out onto the deck to catch the first morning rays.  A mother deer and her fawn were grazing on the lawn when suddenly the young one got a burst of energy and started running back and forth across the lawn with mom looking on.  And yes, I did catch this on video! 

Later that day, we drove to Inverness to hit the thrift shops after stopping at the new Dancing Goat location for coffee and sweets.  We've been going to the closet for quite a few years and usually find some things but Sew Thrifty was a new one for me.  I was surprised by what I found there.  I'm very petite and have a very hard time finding pants in the right length without having to hem them or roll them up.  I found two beautiful, gently-worn pairs that day!  

After shopping, there was still plenty of daylight left to hit beautiful Inverness Beach.  Now, this part of the trip was a little disappointing.  I'm used to the beach being all sand.  On this day, there was nowhere that was untouched by rocks.  I tried my best to go in the water without hurting my feet but it was impossible.  There must have been a storm in the days before.  I was in for quite a bit and the water was beautiful but the rocks made it hard to get in and out of the water so I eventually gave up and joined my friend on the shore where she was searching for beach glass. 

We didn't stay that evening for sunset because we had a date to meet my sister and her boyfriend in Cheticamp for supper.  We met at Le Gabrielle and found a table in the lively bar area where there was some live music.  As usual, the food was delicious and I got to spend some quality time with my sister who was home at that time visiting from Alberta.  That evening, the drive back to Cap Lemoine was relaxing as the calm water twinkled under the twilight and the stars shone brightly overhead. 

The rest of the weekend was more beaches, sunsets, stargazing and scenic drives.  And then came the worst part - leaving.  But the best part is knowing that this heavenly place is only a two-hour drive away and I can come back anytime! 

 

An Amazing Day at Point Michaud Beach

I love Point Michaud.  After all, it's a long, sandy beach in a remote area of beautiful Cape Breton Island and there's nothing I love more than a long, sandy beach all to myself. But, there is one thing I don't love about this beach in particular; the water is always cold!

When I go to Point Michaud Beach, it's to sit in the sand and watch the waves or to walk the many kilometers along its shore. The couple of times I tried to swim there, it was just way too cold.  Sure, many people do swim there but they are local people who are used to the cooler waters of the south coast and many times, they are wearing wetsuits. I'm used to the warm waters of Dominion Beach and Inverness Beach.  Point Michaud Beach is more suited to the surfers who come from all over to surf the ideal conditions the beach is known for.  Sometimes the waves get quite big. I don't surf.  I also don't even put my toes in the water at Point Michaud Beach.  

Than, one day I made a last-minute visit to Point Michaud.  I was camping down the road with my father and when we parted ways to head home, I stopped at the beach to see an old friend who happened to be there that day.  It was a warm sunny day, but I didn't have high hopes of going for a swim.  

"Did you bring your swimsuit?  The water is lovely!" was the greeting I received as my old friend embraced me in the parking lot.   I must have looked at her like she was crazy because she responded with "no really, the water is the warmest It's ever been!".  I had my doubts but I changed into my swimsuit anyway.  I sat on the beach in the warm sun, delaying my entry into what I expected to be chilly water.  When my friend's young granddaughter ran to the water's edge and walked nonchalantly into the water like it was nothing, I began to think that maybe my friend wasn't exaggerating about the water temperature after all.  

I walked to the water's edge and watched the little girls jump and dive and splash around. The water was so clear.  I'd never seen it so clear before!  I slipped my sandals off and dipped my toes in the water.  It felt very warm but I knew that wasn't enough to gauge how warm it would be further out.  I slowly entered the water inch by inch.  It didn't get colder.  Eventually I was up to my waist in warm water that is usually the norm for the other side of the island.  I ducked and surprisingly, it wasn't a shock because, lo and behold, the water was so warm!  

I stayed in that water for over an hour riding the gentle waves, watching the surfers riding waves on their boards nearby.  Even in water over my head, it was clear, I could see straight to the bottom.  It was almost like swimming in the Caribbean Sea.  I'd never seen such beautiful conditions at Point Michaud before and boy, was I glad I took my swimsuit along on that camping trip! When the clouds rolled in and the air cooled, the water stayed warm but I knew it was time to get out of the water and dry off before the rain came. 

The rain did come just as I was driving along the coast headed for home.  I made a little detour to St. Peters to grab a coffee for the road and made that long, scenic drive down Route 4 along the Bras d'Or Lakes.  I'll never assume that the water is always cold at Point Michaud again because I hope to have a repeat of that amazing day next summer and every summer after!

You Never Know What You'll Find on Cape Breton's Beaches

Beachcombing is a favourite activity of mine and there's no better place to indulge in this hobby than on the long, weather-battered beaches of Cape Breton.  I've found many interesting items over the years, the most interesting being a piece of an old ship that washed ashore at Dominion Beach in a big storm.

While looking out my window one evening, I spotted a blinking green light on the beach across the bay.  Unable to identify it from my house and being driven crazy wondering what the source of the light was, I trekked along the beach one night to the spot where the blinking was coming from.  It was a buoy that had come lose in a storm and washed up onto the dunes.

Almost anything I find on the beach serves a purpose.  Whether it be an old lobster trap that's turned into a makeshift seat from which to watch a beautiful sunset or a giant seashell used as a soap dish.  Many people make crafts with the treasures they find on the beach.  If anything, the often misplaced items found on the island's beaches make great subjects for photos.

An old lobster trap is the perfect subject in this photo.

Some people like to do interesting things with rocks at the beach.

I came across this piece of an old ship washed ashore after a storm at Dominion Beach.

Cape Breton is a Bird-watcher's Paradise

Turkey Vultures are not native to Cape Breton Island but they've been spotted on numerous occasions over the last few years.  My answer as to why would only be a guess but I imagine it has to do with the warming climate of the area.  This one was spotted in Mira near Marion Bridge and others have been spotted along the south coast of the island.  But Turkey Vultures are not the only birds that bird watchers can spot around Cape Breton; there are many including:
Bald Eagles
Atlantic Puffins
Osprey
A wide variety of hawks
Piping Plovers
Gannets
Owls
Several species of ducks
Canada Geese
...and many many more!

A Turkey Vulture near Marion Bridge in the Mira area of Cape Breton.

Spectacular Mountain Views are in no Shortage on Cape Breton Island

Whether you are in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, cruising through the Margaree Valley or enjoying the views from the many scenic look-offs that are located around the Cabot Trail, mountain vistas are a common sight! Some of the most notable mountains on the island include:
 

Kelly's Mountain, which is located in the Trans Canada Highway, has two scenic look-offs and stunning views of the Seal Island Bridge. Elevation: 267 metres.
 

Cape Smokey Mountain, which is located along the Cabot Trail via Englishtown, is home to a provincial park, exciting hairpin turns and ocean views.  Elevation: 322 metres.
 

French Mountain, which is situated between Cheticamp and Pleasant Bay, is mostly-known for being the location of one of Atlantic Canada's most iconic hiking trails, The Skyline Trail.  Elevation 430 metres. 

North Mountain features beautiful mountain views and, in the winter, is known for having giant snow squalls that easily tower over the tallest of vehicles. Elevation: 479 metres
 

MacKenzie Mountain features lovely views of Pleasant Bay.  Elevation 355 metres.
 

Franey Mountain, which is located in Ingonish, also has a scenic hiking trail and some of the best views around.  Elevation: 430 metres

It's a fairly steep climb to the top but the views from the trail on Franey Mountain are incredible.

My dad and I hiked the Franey Mountain Trail a few years ago and I can't wait to hike it again this fall!

The view from the Skyline Trail on French Mountain.

The view of Cape Smokey Mountain from Ingonish Beach

When it Comes to Land and Sea Life, There's Always Something to See Around Cape Breton

You just never know what you might see while out and about around Cape Breton Island, especially when it comes to wildlife....both on land and in the water!  Moose, fox, coyote, black bear, bobcat, lynx, whales, dolphins and hundreds of species of birds make their home on the land and in the waters around Cape Breton.  You'll see something every time you venture out, guaranteed!

There's so much wildlife around Cape Breton.  Take this giant Leatherback turtle I spotted a few years ago on a whale tour near Ingonish.  I'd never seen one before.  In fact, at that time, I didn't even know they were in the waters off Cape Breton.  I wasn't expecting to meet this guy but what a treat it was when he was spotted swimming right next to the boat!

The Point in Ingonish - One of the Best Views on Cape Breton Island

It's one of my favourite places to go in the evening when I'm not ready to head back to my campsite at Broad Cove near Ingonish.  The Point has one of the best views on the island - mountains surrounding the beautiful bay and just before dark, the mountains become silhouettes against the reds and purples leftover of a sun long gone down into the horizon. 

The breakwater at The Point near Ingonish.  I love this spot right before darkness falls.  I make a point to stop here on my way back to my campsite so I can watch the colorful sky turn black with millions of stars.  It truly is a magical place.  Sometimes I go to the end of the breakwater and sit on the rocks.  Sometimes I lie down in the sand on the little beach.

Ingonish is paradise!  I love this place!

The Ocean is Never Far Away in Cape Breton

No matter where you go in Cape Breton, you are always less than an hour's drive from the ocean!  It is, after all, a small island.  Whether it be a rocky shore, a sandy beach or high cliffs looking out over the Atlantic, the ocean is very much a part of the scenery here.

One of my favourite ocean views on Cape Breton Island located at Broad Cove Beach near Ingonish.

Eglise St. Pierre - The Big, Beautiful Church in Cheticamp

I may not be much a church-goer these days, but this beautiful church in the little Acadian village of Cheticamp has special meaning to me.  My mother grew up in Cheticamp and she and her mother and father attended this church.  As a child, my family always made a point to stop at Eglise St. Pierre whenever we passed through Cheticamp on our way around the Cabot Trail.  I remember that if you left a donation, you could light a candle and make a wish.  My sisters and I all wished for the same thing during one visit; each of us wished to have a new kitten.  Soon after that visit, my grandmothers cat had 3 kittens and guess who ended up with the 3 kittens?  My two sisters and I.  One kitten each.  Sometimes wishes do come true!  I'm sure I will make at least one trip around the Cabor Trail this summer and, no doubt, I will stop at the big church in Cheticamp like I have every year since I can remember.  If you ever make it to the island, make sure to stop too.  It's open to the public and well worth a look. 

Beautiful Eglise St. Pierre Church in Cheticamp can be seen for miles all around and is well-worth a visit if you ever find yourself in this pretty little Acadian Village along the Cabot Trail.

The Foggy Coast

With four distinct seasons on Cape Breton Island, adverse weather is to be expected from time-to-time and fog is one of those adverse weather conditions that we have to deal with sometimes.  Well, maybe fog isn't all that bad; after all, you can get some pretty interesting photos in foggy conditions and it can be a welcome sign after a day of extremely hot conditions. You are most likely to experience fog in the early morning and near the coast.  The south coast of the island from Gabarus to Point Michaud experiences the most fog.  When I seek refuse from the heat, I head to this coast where the temperatures are much cooler, even in summer.

A foggy day at Crooked Lake Beach on the South Coast of Cape Breton Island.  I'm always the only person on this beach whenever I go there. Just the way I like my beaches...deserted!

Beautiful Lake O'Law on Cape Breton Island

There are so many beautiful places in Cape Breton, it's hard to list them all!  Lake O'Law is one of my favourites and it's one I make a point to stop at every time I make my way through Middle River and Margaree on my way to the western part of the island.  Sometimes I even spend the night at The Lakes Campground.  There is a stillness along the shores of this lake that is like none other I've ever experienced.  It's quiet, eerily so.  At night, you can see the silhouette of those hills against the sparkling, calm waters of the lake.  I wish I was there right now!  If you ever make your way to the island, you'll pass through this beautiful area on your way around the world-famous Cabot Trail.

There are many lakes in Cape Breton but this one is likely one of the most beautiful lakes on the island and it's easily accessible right along the Cabot Trail.  The provincial park is a great place to stop and stretch your legs while enjoying some of the spectacular scenery.

My Ultimate Staycation....Hopefully Your Ultimate Vacation Someday

Many people around the world are disappointed with the fact that they won't be able to travel outside of their province or state for a while.  I consider myself lucky because I live in one of the most beautiful places in the world.  Ok, I might be a little biased but ask anyone in the know and they will tell you that Cape Breton Island is quite the place!  It has been voted as one of the most scenic islands in the world, it's hosts a world class music festival every fall, it has the world-famous Cabot Trail which has been voted one of the most scenic drives in the world and it's steeped in history and culture.  When this Coronavirus is done with, why not pay my island home a visit?  The friendly people will welcome you with open arms and make you feel right at home!

Cape Breton Island has hundreds of miles of rocky coastline.  It's a place where the sea meets the land and sometimes that land happens to be a secluded sandy beach.  Hope to see you on my island this time next year...making up for lost time!

Hiking New and Old Territory - Cape Perce and Morrison Beach

Quite a few years ago, I hiked a trail in Donkin, Cape Breton.  It was a rather short trail that started near Schooner Pond and went up a hill to reveal a magnificent view of the ocean and nearby cliffs.  What I didn't know at the time was the trail doesn't end at the top of that hill like I thought it did.  I learned years later from fellow hikers that it keeps going to a lovely spot called Cape Perce; a clearing high above the raging waters of the Atlantic, overlooking Flint Island.

Upon realizing that beautiful trail keeps going beyond the spot where I turned around that day many years ago, I picked a day that looked like the weather would stay nice long enough for me to make the two-to-three-hour-long hike.   

The drive from New Waterford to Donkin is about 30 minutes.  I parked on the old wood road running between the beach and the pond and made my way to the trail going up the hill.  The first difference I noticed since the last time I had hiked there was the noise coming from the nearby Donkin Mine which had just started operations a few years earlier.  Thankfully, the seas were high that day and the wind was brisk so the sound of waves crashing ashore and trees rustling in the wind soon drowned out the mechanical sounds coming from the coal mine nearby.   

I soon made it to the top of the hill, the spot where I had turned back the last time.  I continued walking on the fairly decent path that was carved out along the cliffs.  At times, it winded a little closer that I would have liked.  Atone point, I did get down on my belly and stealthily inched toward the edge to peak down to the rocky beach below.  It was quite a drop.  The realization that erosion could very well be occurring at that very spot caused me to quickly back up and keep my distance from the edge for the rest of the trek. 

As I walked, some ships that were headed out to sea followed me along the shore.  A giant cargo ship that looked to be overflowing with cargo and a cruise ship filled with passengers stopping by my fair island for the day.  I always wonder why people come to Cape Breton via cruise ship to only spend a few hours in port when it takes at least a week to see everything the little island has to offer.  How to choose between the Cabot Trail, Baddeck and The Fortress of Louisbourg?  And even if you do manage to see one, you barely have any time to enjoy it before you are shuffled back on board the ship to race to the next port.

The weather started to change as I pressed on.  I had no idea where the trail ended or how long it would take to reach the end.  A light drizzle came and went and the clouds grew darker.  I soon reached a clearing where I could see another clearing across a little cove.  There was what looked like a flag pole at the edge.  I knew that was Cape Perce as I had been told to look for the flag pole at the clearing.  I stopped for a bit to rest and take some pictures and watch some seals bobbing in the waves and cormorants drying their wings on some rocks.  As I looked out to sea, I wondered if Hilton, the tagged great white shark who had pinged this area as his location only a few days earlier, was lurking nearby.  I wondered if those seals knew about Hilton.  I rested for  but while enjoying the view and a cold beer before continuing.

I made it to Cape Perce just as the rain got heavier and the wind shifted.  The blanket wasn't laid out long; only long enough for me to eat the snacks I had packed and take a few pictures.  I had hoped to stay longer but the rain and sudden wind and cold made me decide to head back to the car. Another trail knocked off my list of Cape Breton trails to-do list.

Later that same week, I headed to another one of my favourite area's of the island; Framboise.  I met some friends and hiked Morrison Beach.  I hiked Morrison before but it had been a few years since I was there last.  It's a beautiful, remote, rugged beach.

It takes just over an hour to reach Morrison Beach from my house in New Waterford.  I took my time going through the little coastal communities of Forchu and Gabarus and made my way to the bottom of the gravel road leading to the beach.  I parked and ate my lunch while I waited for my friends to show up.

We walked to the right of the beach first and right to the river where we were unable to cross.  Had it been warmer, I would have found a way across but we turned around instead and walked back.  The weather was quite nice that day; a little cool but warm enough to take my shoes off and even dip them in the ocean at one point.  It takes about two hours to walk the whole beach and back but longer if you stop to take pictures and admire the beauty, which I always do. 

Upon returning to the car, we drove to the bottom of Crooked Lake Road and had some tea and snacks while watching the waves crash onto the beach.  A quick stroll up the hill to get a better view was done quickly only because the mosquitoes were so bad! 

My Cape Breton Bucket List

I've noticed that some of my fellow Cape Breton bloggers recently came out with some Cape Breton Island bucket lists.  Years ago, when I was young and naive and took what I had in my backyard for granted, I would never have thought of creating a Cape Breton Bucket List.  My bucket list was  made up of exotic places far, far away.  Now Cape Breton is considered one of those exotic places and people from all over have added it to their bucket lists.  Imagine.  That little island tucked away at the far end of the continent where I had my quiet upbringing as a top world attraction!   This little gem has more to offer than any other place I can think of and the world is starting to catch on.  2016 was a record-breaking tourist season for the island and 2017 is shaping out to be much of the same.  So here is my list of must-see places in Cape Breton for those of you who are planning to visit or you locals who need some inspiration on new things to see and do this summer.  I consider myself an expert on all things Cape Breton so perhaps this can be your go-to list of things you must do in Cape Breton or at least inspiration to get out there and explore this beautiful little island.  Here is my list of favourite beaches, restaurants, trails, attractions and experiences around my fair isle.

The Skyline Trail
If you can only do one hiking trail on your entire trip to Cape Breton, let it be the Skyline Trail.  I'm not saying this is the best trail on the island because there are many great trails that aren't listed in the guidebooks and are not well-known to many people.  What I am saying is this trail is one of the best and that is because it incorporates everything one could want in a hike.  Scenery, wildlife and easy terrain that almost anyone can hike.  I've seen moose nearly every time I've hiked this trail and I've hiked it a lot.  The views at the end of the trail are spectacular.  I know that sounds cliche but you gotta believe me...This is where the mountains literally meet the sea and sometimes, as an added bonus, bald eagles are soaring above and whales can be seen close to the shore below.

Whale Cove Beach
Not only is Whale Cove, in my opinion, one of Cape Breton's nicest beaches, it is also home to one of my favourite spots on the island.  First, let me tell you about the beach itself.  Soft, light sand. Clear, usually calm, relatively shallow waters mostly free of rocks, seaweed and other debris.  It's not a long beach but it's rarely crowded.  Mid-way down the beach, there is a walking trail that lead to the top of a hill.  At the top of this hill is a big field on top of a high cliff with some of the best views around.

Coastal Restaurant
Featured on the TV show You Gotta Eat Here a few years back, Coastal Restaurant is one of my favourite restaurants on the Island and has been since I can remember.  They serve great food with a wide variety of items to choose from (even vegetarians can find many things to eat!  I know because I am one!) and the service is friendly and fast.  The place has a nice atmosphere too and you can enjoy your meal while also enjoying some live, local talent on certain nights of the week.

Inverness Beach at Sunset
Not that Inverness Beach is not Fabulous all the time...it's just at it's most spectacular when the sun is disappearing over the horizon.  The west coast of Cape Breton is known for it's beautiful sunsets.  Combine one of these sunsets with the beautiful, long, sandy beach in Inverness and you get a summer evening that is second to none.  I've been to the Caribbean many times and yes they have nice sunsets but the ones at Inverness Beach even beat them.  

MaryAnne Falls
I love all waterfalls but Maryanne Falls near Ingonish are my favourite.  Not only are they a pretty sight, there are two beautiful pools at the bottom of each falls that are deep enough to jump into from the nearby rocks and the water is clean and refreshing for swimming.  I also love to walk along the river and the little trail that goes above the falls to get a beautiful view of the entire area. 

Kidston Island
From the boardwalk in Baddeck, I often seen people roaming this little island and wondered how they got there.  I recently discovered that there is a little shuttle boat run by The Baddeck Lion's Club that takes passengers back and forth from the wharfs in Baddeck to the island.  I went one day last year and finally got to see what I was missing.  Strangely enough, I think I was the only one of the island at that time so I felt like a real castaway.  A little building with bathrooms and picnic tables stands near the shore and some signs guided me to a walking trail.  I walked all around the little island and went right up to the iconic lighthouse and than sat on the beach for a couple of hours with a book.  Now I know where to go if I want to escape the crowds in Baddeck!

Sqeaker's Hole
Although this is a marked trail at Black Brook Beach in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park  I rarely see many people hiking there...and I don't know why!  I love this trail.  It's not very long, it's fairly easy and there are several different ways to go that all bring you somewhere different.  One trail takes you to the little waterfalls above the beach (and yes you can wade into the little pool at the bottom of the falls too!), another trail takes you to the bottom of Squeaker's Hole and another one takes you to the top where there are beautiful ocean views and tons of great spots to sit on the rocks and relax and enjoy the beautiful ocean views.  

Ferguson Beach
I'm a little iffy about sharing this one because not many people know about it and I kinda want to keep it all to myself!  Chances are if you go looking for it, you won't find it anyway as it is not well-marked and the road is not for the faint at heart.  If you like remote beaches where you can walk for miles and not see a soul for days than than perhaps the benefits outweigh the risks.  Once there, you can walk to the left or right on the beach or on the trail above the beach in either direction.  If you are the adventurous type, you can keep going and going and going and when you reach a river or stream, you may just want to find a way across so you can see what's around the next bend.  The last time I was there, I saw a herd of deer in a field and seals are regular visitors.

The Carrot Cake at the Bean Barn Cafe
The Bean Barn Cafe in Ingonish is always the first and last stop of the day for me whenever I am in Ingonish.  Before anything else, I grab a coffee to go and head over to Ingonish Beach to drink it while enjoy my favourite view on the island - Cape Smokey Mountain.  When I make the last stop of the day, it is to sit inside the cozy little cafe with my laptop to catch up on emails and enjoy some more coffee with a giant piece of their delicious, homemade carrot cake.  It is, in my opinion and the opinion of many others I introduced this cake to, the best carrot cake on the island...and I've eaten carrot cake in many places.

North River Falls
By far one of my most memorable hikes to date.  The trail is long (about 19 km's return), rugged and not well-maintained at times.  But it's all worth it when you reach the falls which are the tallest in Nova Scotia.  Because the trail is so long and rugged, the odds that someone else will be there at the same time as you are slim so you will most likely have the falls all to yourself!

Glace Bay Miner's Museum
This is one of the most interesting, interactive museums in Cape Breton in my opinion.  Not only do you get to see a number of exhibits outlining the history and culture of coal mining on the island (the biggest industry at one time), you even get to tour a real mine and actually go underground with a retired miner and hear both funny and heartbreaking stories from years gone by,  If you are lucky, you may even be there on one of the days when the famed Men of Deeps are practicing for one of their upcoming concerts which take place at the museum throughout the summer and fall.

Celtic Colours International Festival
Cape Breton's top music and cultural festival but also one of Canada's top festivals.  People from all over the world travel to the island each fall to enjoy world-class entertainment that just happens to coincide with another popular fall event in Cape Breton...colourful fall foliage.  This is one of my favorite times of the year and I make sure to leave my schedule free for the entire duration of the festival so I can take in as many events as possible. While the festival is mostly known for it's concerts featuring local and international talent, the festival also hosts art exhibits, guided hikes, storytelling events, community meals and other cultural events all over the island.

The Yellow Cello Cafe
This little cafe/restaurant in Baddeck is another favourite of mine.  My mother and I started going there for dinner on summer weekends when I was still in high school.  I still go there every chance I get and it's one of the places I always take visitors who are visiting from away.  The menu is extensive, the service is friendly, the atmosphere is lively (there is often live music during the evening mealtime) and the food is delicious and plentiful.

Black Brook Beach
Another one of my favourite beaches in the Ingonish area of Cape Breton.   Most of the time, I like to just relax on the beach and have a nice relaxing swim in calm waters but sometimes, I like waves too.  Some of the best waves around are at Black Brook and you can also enjoy hiking trails, a waterfall, a freshwater lake and a picnic area nearby

The Wraps at Downtown Nutrition
Downtown Nutrition has been around for a while but I only recently discovered it.  I was looking for somewhere to get a good veggie wrap in Cape Breton and a friend suggested I try the ones at Downtown Nutrition and they are, in my opinion, the best wraps around.  My favourite is the Mediterranean Wrap.

Hiking around Freshwater Lake and/or Warren Lake at Night
Yes I am mentioning two hikes in one paragraph.  I've done both of these hikes at night but hiking around either one of these lakes at night (especially during a full moon!) is quite the experience.  For one, they are both located in a national park, The Cape Breton Highlands.  If you've ever had the opportunity to spend time in a national park, you know how wild, quiet, pristine and untouched the area is.  Imagine hiking around a beautiful lake in a place where there is no traffic, hardly any people, no buildings and no noise except the nearby call of a loon or howl of a coyote.  Just make sure you take someone with you or at least have a stick or bear spray as the critters (the type that may eat you if they are hungry) tend to come out at night.

The Fortress of Louisbourg
 I visit the Fortress at least once a year.  Why?  Because I love to take a trip back to the 18th century every once and a while.  With an 18th century-inspired restaurant and bakery on-site, "residents" in period costumes acting out the roles they would have had over 200 years ago and grounds that were the site of historic battles, there's no better place in North America to get a true feeling of what life was like under those conditions.

Chimney Corner Beach
A recent find but a good one.  Chimney Corner Beach is currently my favourite beach for ocean swimming.  Never over-crowded, nice scenery, rarely any jelly fish, little seaweed, sandy, warm and hardly any rocks...what more could you want in a beach.

Strolling the streets of Baddeck in the evening
I love Baddeck at all times of the day but it's the evening I love most.  The water is at it's calmest, the main street the main street is at it's liveliest, live music can be heard coming from the yacht club near the wharves and the little boardwalk along the shores of the Bras d'Or Lakes is the perfect place to sit and watch the boats coming and going on warm summer evenings. 

Wabo's Pizza Cheticamp
Wabo's doesn't only sell pizza.  A full menu of salads, pastas and pretty much everything you can imagine is available at the restaurant at the back of the property.  However, it's not just the main courses that draw me in. Wabo's is, as far as I know, one of the only places around that sells deep fried cheesecake...and yes that's as delicious as it sounds.  Bonus: The restaurant is located right on the boardwalk which is a great place to watch the sunset after dinner.

Watch the Sun Set/Moon Rise at Ingonish Beach
In my opinion, the best place on Cape Breton Island to watch the sun set and moon rise within the same hour is the lifeguard chair at Ingonish Beach.  That is if no one else claimed it first.  However, anywhere on Ingonish Beach is a great place to sit and watch the night sky.

Cape Clear
I first heard about Cape Clear about ten years ago but wasn't able to find out any information about it because, until recently, it was a well-guarded secret for the few who did know about it.  In recent years, it has gained popularity and now pretty much everyone on the island has at least an idea where it is.  My dad and I went searching for it about 5 years ago and found it after quite a few days of looking.  Was it worth the effort.  You bet it was.   Access is via The Highland Road at Hunter's Mountain near Margaree.  The scenery, which includes an aerial view of the northeast Margaree River Valley, is spectacular.  Bonus: you will likely be the only person there when you arrive.  It's just that remote.

Le Gabriel Restaurant
Delicious food, fantastic service, lively atmosphere and a taste of true Acadian cuisine....expect all this and more (such as live entertainment during certain evenings of the week) when you visit Le Gabriel in Cheticamp.  Look for the lighthouse in the middle of town.

Camping at Broad Cove Campground
This is my favorite campground on the island.  It's a perfect mix of remote isolation and modern comforts.  Heavily forested with lots of wildlife and a beach nearby makes it feel like you are in the middle of nowhere (which, really you are) and full bathrooms with showers and flush toilets mean you are not completely roughing it.  The campground is huge with plenty of trails and wood roads to walk or bike, there is an outdoor theatre, playground, fire pits and a beach path...and speaking of the beach.  Did I mention you will fall asleep to the sound of waves crashing ashore every night?

Hike the Skyline Trail at Sunset
Actually, hike the Skyline trail anytime...but if you want to get the absolute most out of a hike on one of Eastern Canada's top hiking trails, it's best to start the hike about an hour and a half before sunset so you can watch it from the top of the trail where the scenery is.  The added bonus of doing the trail at this time is you are more likely to see wildlife at dusk than any other time of day. 

North River Kayak
Whether you have ever kayaked before or not, I highly recommend you take an excursion with North River Kayak.  There are short trips of only a few hours and longer ones for more seasoned kayakers. Lessons and safety instructions are provided.  I never kayaked before when I took my first excursion with this company and I did fine.  It is really almost impossible to tip a kayak!  Waterfalls, beaches, bald eagles and other seabirds are just some of the things you can expect to see during a relaxing paddle in St. Anne's Bay.  

The Bayside Canteen
This place has been around forever and serves everything including some of the best ice cream around.  I highly recommend the onion rings and the banana splits and I recommend you take your food and park around back of the building to enjoy the beautiful view on Lingan Bay or park directly across the street in the little park to get an equally nice view.

Ice Cream at the Lighthouse in Neil's Harbour
A tradition when taking a trip around the Cabot Trail is to stop and get ice cream at the old lighthouse-turned-ice-cream-parlour in Neil's Harbour.  Many flavors, huge scoops, friendly service and a fantastic view!

Swimming at Marble Mountain
I only found this place along the Bras d'Or Lakes late last summer but it is now one of my favourite freshwater swimming holes.  Crystal clear, calm, refreshing waters with beautiful scenery all around make this a great place to spend an afternoon or evening.

The Fairy Hole/Glooscap Caves
A longish drive and a slightly challenging hike are well-worth the time and effort it takes to reach these remote caves.  Best to go at low tide if you want to get inside the area where the caves are.  You know you are close when you reach the little beach.  The water is a little rough at times but it's only a short swim to the opening in the rocks that takes you to a beautiful swimming hole and the opening to the caves.

So Long for Now Beautiful Isle and Onto Whiskey and Lake Monsters

Part 1 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/02/my-journey-to-scotlands-cities.html
Part 2 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/next-stop-edinburgh-scotland.html
Part 3 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/72-hours-in-city-of-edinburgh.html
Part 4 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/a-real-introduction-to-history-and.html
Part 5 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/the-haunted-graveyards-and-underground.html
Part 6 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/a-tour-of-edinburgh-castle-and-solo.html
Part 7 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/farewell-edinburgh-hello-highlands.html
Part 8 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2016/11/making-my-way-to-lovely-isle-of-skye.html

Part 9 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/05/exploring-towns-brochs-and-castles-of.html

I awoke to the sun shining on that last morning on the Isle of Skye.  Finally, I was able to get a clear glimpse of that fantastic view from atop that hill.  After yet another hearty breakfast, I was once again back on the bus and off the tackle more adventures around the Highlands of Scotland.  On this day, we took a different route off the Island and drove off the Isle of Skye instead of taking a ferry.  Perhaps due to my ancestral connections to the island, I felt sad at leaving it, almost like leaving home.  It was a rather strange feeling like none I ever experienced when leaving any other places I've visited. 

The view from Hillview

As we drove along those scenic country roads, I heard more stories and folklore about the people who shaped the land.  Stories such as the five sisters of Kintail and fairies stalking the glens and knolls of the countryside.  Our first stop of the day was the Glenlivet Whisky Distillery  Now, I'm not a fan of Whiskey.  In fact, I don't even understand how anyone can sip on it and not gag or throw up like I almost do every time I take a sip.  The option was there for anyone who didn't want to take the tour to stay on the bus or go for a walk around the area.  Since whisky seems to be as much a part of Scottish culture as kilts or bagpipes, I opted to take the tour and, despite my dislike for the drink, it was quite interesting. I may not appreciate the taste of whisky but I can certainly appreciate the amount of time and work that goes into making it!  At the end of the tour, I kept an open mind and even tried the sample that was offered to me.  I took a tiny swig and promptly gagged.  At least I gave it another chance.  Whisky just doesn't agree with me.  I don't know how everyone around me looked like they were thoroughly enjoying and even savoring it while I felt like my throat was on fire after a little drop. 

The whiskey sample I was given at the end of the tour.  I could only drink about half of it before I gagged.

Learning how whiskey is made - just some of the sights in and around the brewery

Our next stop was the pretty little town of Beuly where we stopped long enough time to eat lunch and  wander the village.  I decided to walk the entire length of the main street and see what was available for restaurants and cafes.  There were quite a few places but there seemed to be lineups and large crowds at every one of them.  A couple of tour buses from other companies had arrived in the town at the same time so I decided to keep walking for a bit to allow the crowds to disperse.  When I returned to where most of the eateries are, my eyes locked onto the one place that didn't look too crowded, a little cafe called Corner on the Square.  I ordered a veggie quiche and some other delicious-looking item that I had never heard of before and can't remember the name of.  With food in hand, I found myself in a bit of a dilemma; there were no tables or anywhere to sit inside so I had to find a place to sit outside.  I once again wandered around the town looking for a place to enjoy my meal.  All the benches and picnic tables were taken so I sat on a ledge near a bus stop in front of a town-hallish looking building.  Others soon followed and soon the entire ledge was bustling with tourists eating lunch in the midday sun along a busy street in the pretty little town of Beuly.

I've been told that a trip to Scotland is not complete without a visit to one of the most famous lakes in Scotland and possible the whole world, Loch Ness.  I'm pretty sure everyone reading this is probably aware of what makes the lake so famous and had it not been on the itinerary of this tour, I don't think I would have made a special detour to try and spot a monster that may or may not be still alive if it even ever existed.  That being said, my afternoon on the Loch did end up being a highlight of the trip.  We left Beuly and drove a long stretch of highway until we reached Urquhart Castle.  After a walk through the visitor centre, I ventured off on my own to explore the ruins of the great castle with instructions to meet in an hour to board a cruise on the Loch.

Once again, I found myself wandering around an ancient castle and imagining what it was once like and trying to wrap my head around some of the (both brutal and historical) things must have transpired on that very spot over hundreds of years.  The setting of the ruins is breathtaking with what's left of the once stately castle sitting on the banks of Loch Ness.

With the hour almost up, I made my way to the docks by the lake and climbed aboard the Jacobite Warrior and I took a seat on the upper outside deck. The air was a little cook but this was the best place to get the best view of the lake and surrounding countryside.  The winds had picked up a bit but the sun was shining on the Loch, giving it a crystal clear, glass-like finish until we got out to the middle of the lake where it was quite rough.  I scanned the deep waters looking for signs of the famous sea serpent that is said to live in the loch but Nessie remained elusive.  Some sonar equipment is on display so passengers can watch to see if any large objects are lurking beneath the surface.  I saw nothing there either.  Some say Nessie died and that is why she has not been seen in a while.  The gift shops, amusement park, boat tours and Nessie merchandise give me the impression that perhaps she never existed except to attract foreign tourists.  Yes, I am a skeptic until I see it with my own eyes.  

Loch Ness

Sonar equipment used to detect Nessie...or more likely jsut any big mass on the lake.

We arrived in Fort Augustus in the early evening and before checking into our accommodations for the night, we attended a live show at the Clansman Centre.  Inside the dark theatre, a man dressed in period costume and carrying a Claymore sword walked out on stage.  After a brief history on the use of the Claymore, a medieval (and quite effective) weapon used in battles from the 15th to the 17th century, we were shown the proper way to wear a kilt.  I you are thinking the way I did before seeing this demonstration, you probably think that wearing a kilt is simply the same as wearing any skirt.  Well, not quite...and the Scots prefer that no one use the word skirt to describe a kilt.  The kilt is, after all, an item of clothing usually worn by men and was, in the past, commonly worn on the battlefield. I was able to see exactly how the kilt was worn and what went into the actual putting on of the kilt and let me tell you, it's a lot harder than it looks!

Fort Augustus is another pretty little town with a canal in the centre of the downtown area.  Since it was our last night together as a group (some were headed to the Orkney islands the next day with another guide while the rest of us, me included, were headed back to Glasgow and Edinburgh) we decided to go out to dinner together.  However, that didn't quite work out as planned.  Some members of the group decided to call it a night while the rest of us couldn't decide on one place to eat so we ended up going our separate ways.  The American lady I had been sharing a seat with on the bus suggested pizza for anyone who wanted to join her.  I hadn't tried Scottish pizza yet so I went with her.  We found a place called The Moorings that served pizza and a lot of other delicious-sounding meals.  Since I already had pizza on the brain, I ordered a small vegetarian pizza thinking I would take half of it back to the hotel to have for breakfast the next morning.  Well that didn't happen because it was so good and I was so hungry, I just polished it all off in one sitting.  The large windows in the restaurant allowed for a nice view of the little town and because it wasn't overly crowded with people waiting for tables, we felt comfortable to stay and talk for a while after we ate.

I'm a bit of an introvert so meeting new people is a tad of a chore for me sometimes but occasionally, I meet a person who I instantly like and trust and we become instant friends. I don't often meet someone I can share intimate details of my life with after only a couple of days but I felt very comfortable with this person, like I had known her all my life.  We talked about the recent, sudden loss of our mothers at fairly young ages.  We talked about our careers and hobbies and families and travels.  At one point, she blurted out something that both surprised me.  "I'm proud of you".  Of course, I was initially baffled by this statement.  How can a who was a total stranger 4 days earlier be proud of me?  "I wish I could have done what you are doing at your age...traveling by myself.  I was too scared when I was younger.  Keep doing what you are doing and don't let anyone tell you otherwise".  I was shocked.  That was the first time anyone had ever told me they were proud of me for traveling on my own.  I've gotten lots of comments over the years about my solo travels.  Usually they were along the line of "you know, it's time to get your priorities straight and start thinking about starting a family" or "one of these days, you are going to get raped/kipnapped/killed/beat up/robbed while wandering around these foreign countries".  Hearing those words made me feel more confident in my own feelings towards my lifestyle.  I've never felt that I'm being irresponsible, selfish or careless when it comes to my travels but the people around me have tried to make me feel that way my whole life and at times, I wonder if maybe it is true.  It was a relief to hear someone tell me that I am on the right track in life.  This is why I find it easier making friends on the road despite being more on the introverted side.  I'm more likely to meet more open-minded, adventurous people who are living their lives to the fullest.  People who are doing things, who don't live in the tiny bubbles of their little corner of the world with their house, white picket fence, television and 2.5 kids.  Too bad the people around me can't see that just because I don't live a semi-sheltered and structured life like they do, it doesn't mean there's something wrong with me.  It just means I am following my own path and living my life the way I want to live it. And I'm not hurting anyone by doing so!

We left the restaurant almost two hours after we arrived and set out to find a bank machine to get some cash out.  In our wanderings, we forgot to keep track of where we were and how to get back to the main road and back to our guest house.  We walked around for a long time until we found an area that looked familiar and walked up a road that looked like the road that our guest house was on.  It had been a light drizzle all evening until suddenly, we got caught in a straight and heavy downpour.  We walked and walked in that cold, hard rain for what seemed like forever and realized we were on the wrong road.  We returned to the main road and walked and walked again until we found another road that looked familiar.  Nope.  Wrong road again.  Eventually, we found The Thistle Dubh and walked in the front door drenched from head to toe.  I never laughed so hard in my life.  Who knew getting lost in a rainstorm in a foreign country could be so fun.  I guess any situation can be turned into something positive as long as you are in good company. 

I love getting lost in foreign countries.  Not only does it provide opportunity to see things I would otherwise not see and experience things I would otherwise not experience, it provides me with memorable and entertaining stories to share later.  These memories always being a smile to my face and that night was one of those nights that will surely stay fresh in my mind for a long time to come. 

The Thistle Dubh (a cute little play on words if you know the proper pronunciation of those two gaelic words.  Clue: It ends up sounding very much like "this'll do")

Exploring the Towns, Brochs and Castles of the Isle of Skye

Continued from...
Part 1 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/02/my-journey-to-scotlands-cities.html
Part 2 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/next-stop-edinburgh-scotland.html
Part 3 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/72-hours-in-city-of-edinburgh.html
Part 4 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/a-real-introduction-to-history-and.html
Part 5 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/the-haunted-graveyards-and-underground.html
Part 6 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/a-tour-of-edinburgh-castle-and-solo.html
Part 7 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/farewell-edinburgh-hello-highlands.html
Part 8 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2016/11/making-my-way-to-lovely-isle-of-skye.html



That first morning on the Isle if Skye, I was unable to enjoy the view from Hillview B&B because I awoke to rain, drizzle and fog.  It looked like the sun was trying to come out but the rain won and I never did see the sun that day.  Once again, breakfast was fit for royalty.  Eggs, sausages, fresh veggies and fruit, cereal, porridge, toast.  I certainly don't eat this well during breakfast at home!

With the group together again on the bus, it was decided that since the weather wasn't so great, we would take a scenic drive around the island and stop at a few attractions along the way.  I was pleased with this decision as it has always been my dream to tour the Isle of Skye because it's so renowned for it's rugged beauty and because I have ancestral ties to the island.  From what I gathered from other family members who had done research into the family background, I had connections to the Isle of Skye and to the Clan MacDonald.  When I mentioned this to Andrew (who, like everyone else I met in Scotland, never heard of the name MacEachern) he asked "which clan MacDonald?" because apparently there are quite a few.

As we drove further into more remote areas of the countryside, the road started to narrow until it was down to one lane with passing places every few hundred yards.  Eventually, we turned onto an even narrower road marked with a sign that read "buses not recommended" and all I could think at that point was "now this is my kind of tour!".  It's when you go off-the-beaten track that you see the things that aren't in the guidebooks.  As we drove along that narrow road, traffic became lighter until it is was nearly non-existent and neighborhoods turned into vast fields of sheep and lonely old farmhouses and steep valleys with deep blue-grey streams and rivers running through them.  Soon, the sea and other islands of the Inner Hebrides became visible.  There were some steep embankments along the narrow highway that made the drive a little nerve-wracking but the incredible scenery eventually drew my attention away from the road and to the far-reaching vistas before me.  It's safe to say that sheep outnumber people in those parts.  On that day, I saw a few other tour buses and the odd car but for the most part, those far-reaching remote areas of the Isle of Skye were pretty desolate.

When I was doing research for this trip, the Isle of Skye wasn't a part of my original itinerary until I started coming across information about it.  The pictures I viewed online were what did it for me and I made extra time and put aside extra money to make sure it was a part of my trip.  If you've never been to the Isle of Skye than be forewarned that if you look at the pictures online and expect to see the same thing in person, you will be disappointed; those pictures are very misleading.  The Isle of Skye is far more beautiful in person than any picture you will see anywhere.  And the island has more than looks going for it.  The history is intriguing, brutal and colorful and the people as hearty as they are friendly.  And one would have to be quite hearty to thrive in that wild (and, I'd imagine during the winter months, unforgiving!) landscape.

As we drove along, Andrew told us stories about that history and some of the notable people who were a part of it and I also learned about some random, but nonetheless, interesting facts about Scotland.  I learned about an extraordinary man named Callum MacLeod who, after becoming fed up with the state of traveling on his island of Rassay (a small island which can be seen from the Isle of Skye), single-handedly built a road.  I learned that the United Kindom, including Scotland, uses a mix of the Imperial and Metric systems.  I learned that one of the reasons there are so may sheep in Scotland is because they have no predators there.  I learned about the Highland Midge, a fly that is similar to what I know as mosquitoes here in Canada but much worse.  I learned that a popular travel company filmed a very comical commercial on the Isle of Skye and they cast some of the local sheep.  I had the opportunity to meet some of those sheep.  Well sort of.  

Our first stop (where we actually got out of the bus and ventured into the rain and wind) was at a 2500-year old tower (or Broch as it is commonly known in Scotland).  It was a bit of hike uphill to get to Dun Beag Broch and by that time the winds were hurricane-force mixed with monsoon rain.  Some of the people on my bus were reluctant to even go outside in that weather until Andrew reminding them that they may never get another chance to see it again.  I walked off the bus like it was just another day as I deal with similar weather frequently back home in Atlantic Canada. On the way up the hill, some tourists chased some sheep that were grazing near the trail.  It was quite funny.  I'm not sure the sheep thought so as it darted off into the field to join some other recently-spooked sheep.

Dun Beag Broch

Some Spooked Sheep

We continued driving into some more remote areas of the island, passing by notable landmarks including The Old Man of Stor and Kilt Rock with it's waterfall cascading 60 metres into the ocean. We visited the ruins of Duntulm Castle which has ties to the clan MacDonald of the area.  As I roamed those ruins, I wondered if I had ties to this castle somewhere down the line through my supposed connections to a Clan MacDonald on the Isle of Skye.

The ruins of Duntulm Castle

Kilt Rock with it's waterfall cascading 60 metres into the ocean

Our first big stop of the day was for lunch in the seaside capital of Portree.  I set out to explore the town on my own at first but met up with some of the others in the group who were going for lunch at a little cafe by the waterfront.  Cafe Arriba is a tiny, funky little place with a young and hip clientele.  We sat at the table at the back corner near a window overlooking the scenic waterfront and ordered some coffee and sweets.  This is when I got to know some of my fellow travelers a little more.  A retired couple from Calgary, a woman from Pennsylvania who recently retired in Florida, a widowed man originally from Italy who had been married to a Scottish woman.  This is the part about traveling I really enjoy.  Those dinners, lunches and drinks in far flung places with complete strangers from all over the world...who are like people you've known all your life after only a couple of hours and food and drinks.  With a about an hour to kill after we finished our lunch, we wandered the little streets of Portree in search of souvenirs.  I found a book about Callum MacLeod and his handmade road, a beautiful picture of the city of Edinburgh to hang on the wall of my new apartment and some scarfs for my sisters.

A sign on the wall of Cafe Arriba in the town of Portree. A good read for the road.

The weather was starting to clear a little bit when we got back on the road to continue our circumnavigation of the Isle of Skye.  The next time we stopped, it was at a museum to visit some restored traditional black houses that were once widely used in the Highlands of Scotland.  There was a very nice gift shop there.  Unfortunately, due to the remoteness of the shop, there was no ATM or internet connection in the area and I had forgotten to get some cash so I was unable to purchase the items I'd been eyeing.

A traditional Black House

The rain was much heavier when we returned to the bus to settle in for the last leg of the day's journey.  We drove along some more remote country roads and despite the weather, the scenery was still among the most beautiful I'd ever seen.  Andrew purchased a CD at the gift shop and the beautiful sound of traditional Gaelic music lulled me in and out of a semi-sleeping state. 

Back in Broadford it was still raining so I had Andrew drop me off at the bottom of the hill so I could grab some takeout again.  I didn't feel like walking down the hill and back up again so at least this way, I would only have to do it once.  Macaroni pie and chips became somewhat of a staple for me in Scotland.  That evening, I stayed cozy and warm in my room at Hillview while the rain continued to fall and the wind howled through the night.  My last thought before slipping into a deep sleep was a wish for nicer weather the following day.