A Family Outing to The Untouched, Underrated part of Cape Breton Island

The south coast of Cape Breton Island is underrated and under-traveled and frankly, I kind of like it that way. 

However, I feel the need to share my south coast adventures because if you haven't explored the area, you're missing out!  I understand the draw to the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and the west coast; mountains, sandy beaches, touristy attractions, top restaurants and breweries.  But if you're looking for a place on Cape Breton, Nova Scotia where you can really get away and escape the crowds and be one with untouched nature where you can walk for miles along rugged Atlantic coastline and not see one single person (unless you count seals and deer as people), this is the place to be.

The road that passes along the coast from Gabarus to Grand River, also known as the Fleur de Lis Trail, might look like a simple country road but the adventurous souls who've ventured off this main road and onto the gravel roads that lead to places like Morrison Beach, Ferguson Beach, Blue Lake and Crooked Lake know that there's more to this area than just trees, some lakes and a few old houses.  

Just to name a few of the coastal treasures in the area...in Sterling, you'll find pioneer cemeteries, abandoned Victorian-style farmhouses, fishing holes and an old abandoned mine that's said to be haunted.  Today, the mine features old mine workings spray painted with some colourful artwork. 

My father and I travel to the area frequently to do some hiking and fishing. My most recent trip to Framboise (the name my family uses to refer to this entire area although it includes several communities) was extra special as my sister, who hadn't been home in two years, joined  us.  

When Dad and I go to Framboise, we have a specific destination in mind. A lake to fish or a beach to comb or a trail to hike. On this day, we stopped everywhere because my sister isn't that familiar with the area since she's been living away for so long.  We stopped in Gabarus to take pictures of the pretty fishing village and visit the friendly goats that live on the hill.   We drove into the Sterling to see the spot where our old cabin used to be and watch for deer and other wildlife that's frequently spotted in this area.  We drove to Ferguson Beach and spent some time by the ocean as seals bobbed offshore.  At Grand River, we stopped to look for the bald eagles that are always perched on the poles along the bridge.

 As per tradition, we made a trip to St. Peter's for a coffee and something to eat, stopping to admire some of the old farmhouses along the way.  In St. Peter's, we grabbed some takeout at Jigg's and ate it on a picnic table near the canal as we watched the boats coming and going.   Instead of going home via route 4 as we had originally planned, we did something we don't normally do on any road trip;  We backtracked the same way we came.  The lack of traffic and the possibility of spotting wildlife later in the day motivated us to go back through Framboise.  Although we didn't see anything, the long, country road through forest and scenic coastal villages made for a relaxing drive.  

 

If you're interested in exploring this section of the Fleur de Lis Trail and what I call the Framboise area, depart Sydney via route 327 (exit 7 from the Hwy 125) towards Marion Bridge. Because it's a coastal area, the weather can be vastly different from other areas of the island.  Fog, cool winds and drizzle are common here even though it might be sunny not so far away! 

• Dress in layers and be prepared for wet conditions.
• The terrain is rugged and remote so make sure to wear sturdy, comfortable hiking shoes or boots. 
• Be aware that much of this area does not have cell phone service.
• When hiking in the woods, stay close to the trail because it's very easy to get lost.
• Be careful when swimming in the ocean in this area as there are large waves and rip currents.
  

 

 

Hiking New and Old Territory - Cape Perce and Morrison Beach

Quite a few years ago, I hiked a trail in Donkin, Cape Breton.  It was a rather short trail that started near Schooner Pond and went up a hill to reveal a magnificent view of the ocean and nearby cliffs.  What I didn't know at the time was the trail doesn't end at the top of that hill like I thought it did.  I learned years later from fellow hikers that it keeps going to a lovely spot called Cape Perce; a clearing high above the raging waters of the Atlantic, overlooking Flint Island.

Upon realizing that beautiful trail keeps going beyond the spot where I turned around that day many years ago, I picked a day that looked like the weather would stay nice long enough for me to make the two-to-three-hour-long hike.   

The drive from New Waterford to Donkin is about 30 minutes.  I parked on the old wood road running between the beach and the pond and made my way to the trail going up the hill.  The first difference I noticed since the last time I had hiked there was the noise coming from the nearby Donkin Mine which had just started operations a few years earlier.  Thankfully, the seas were high that day and the wind was brisk so the sound of waves crashing ashore and trees rustling in the wind soon drowned out the mechanical sounds coming from the coal mine nearby.   

I soon made it to the top of the hill, the spot where I had turned back the last time.  I continued walking on the fairly decent path that was carved out along the cliffs.  At times, it winded a little closer that I would have liked.  Atone point, I did get down on my belly and stealthily inched toward the edge to peak down to the rocky beach below.  It was quite a drop.  The realization that erosion could very well be occurring at that very spot caused me to quickly back up and keep my distance from the edge for the rest of the trek. 

As I walked, some ships that were headed out to sea followed me along the shore.  A giant cargo ship that looked to be overflowing with cargo and a cruise ship filled with passengers stopping by my fair island for the day.  I always wonder why people come to Cape Breton via cruise ship to only spend a few hours in port when it takes at least a week to see everything the little island has to offer.  How to choose between the Cabot Trail, Baddeck and The Fortress of Louisbourg?  And even if you do manage to see one, you barely have any time to enjoy it before you are shuffled back on board the ship to race to the next port.

The weather started to change as I pressed on.  I had no idea where the trail ended or how long it would take to reach the end.  A light drizzle came and went and the clouds grew darker.  I soon reached a clearing where I could see another clearing across a little cove.  There was what looked like a flag pole at the edge.  I knew that was Cape Perce as I had been told to look for the flag pole at the clearing.  I stopped for a bit to rest and take some pictures and watch some seals bobbing in the waves and cormorants drying their wings on some rocks.  As I looked out to sea, I wondered if Hilton, the tagged great white shark who had pinged this area as his location only a few days earlier, was lurking nearby.  I wondered if those seals knew about Hilton.  I rested for  but while enjoying the view and a cold beer before continuing.

I made it to Cape Perce just as the rain got heavier and the wind shifted.  The blanket wasn't laid out long; only long enough for me to eat the snacks I had packed and take a few pictures.  I had hoped to stay longer but the rain and sudden wind and cold made me decide to head back to the car. Another trail knocked off my list of Cape Breton trails to-do list.

Later that same week, I headed to another one of my favourite area's of the island; Framboise.  I met some friends and hiked Morrison Beach.  I hiked Morrison before but it had been a few years since I was there last.  It's a beautiful, remote, rugged beach.

It takes just over an hour to reach Morrison Beach from my house in New Waterford.  I took my time going through the little coastal communities of Forchu and Gabarus and made my way to the bottom of the gravel road leading to the beach.  I parked and ate my lunch while I waited for my friends to show up.

We walked to the right of the beach first and right to the river where we were unable to cross.  Had it been warmer, I would have found a way across but we turned around instead and walked back.  The weather was quite nice that day; a little cool but warm enough to take my shoes off and even dip them in the ocean at one point.  It takes about two hours to walk the whole beach and back but longer if you stop to take pictures and admire the beauty, which I always do. 

Upon returning to the car, we drove to the bottom of Crooked Lake Road and had some tea and snacks while watching the waves crash onto the beach.  A quick stroll up the hill to get a better view was done quickly only because the mosquitoes were so bad!