My first Full Day in Beautiful Kananaskis Country

I awoke fairly early on that first morning in Kananaskis Country despite having not slept for so long in the days previously. We had some breakfast and retreated to the backyard where there were some benches, hammocks and a fire pit.  I couldn't believe how calm and quiet it was!  All I could hear was a light wind rustling the treetops, some birds chirping and a ground squirrel nibbling on an acorn. My sister kept complaining about how cold it was but to me, it was just right.  I just came from Atlantic Canada where the air was damp, heavy and chill to the bone.  The dry mountain air was a welcoming relief. 

That first day, we went for a hike to troll falls.  I am used to long hikes but after a day of traveling, this relatively short and easy hike was perfect for my first full day in The Rockies. The first leg of the trail snaked through some dense forest with towering trees and thick canopy to keep the hot sun out.  

It didn't take too long to reach the picturesque waterfall.  There were signs everywhere telling people to avoid certain areas due to erosion and rock slides but the area immediately behind the waterfall looked safe so I took my chances.  I wandered behind the falls while the cool water sprayed my face.  It was like the walk that takes you behind Niagara Falls, but without the dense crowds.  

We climbed up another steep part of the trail to reach another little waterfall called Marmot Falls. The climb down to the main part of the trail was easier then the climb up and when we reached the fork in the trail, we took a different way back to the parking lot.  This time, we passed through an open meadow on the edge of the forest. The views of the mountains bordering the area were spectacular. I am used to walking fast at home because I am usually walking to work or walking for exercise.  Here, there was no reason to walk fast.  I wasn't in a hurry to get anywhere.  I enjoyed the slow pace while just enjoying the views and the fresh mountain air. 

 

 

A Family Outing to The Untouched, Underrated part of Cape Breton Island

The south coast of Cape Breton Island is underrated and under-traveled and frankly, I kind of like it that way. 

However, I feel the need to share my south coast adventures because if you haven't explored the area, you're missing out!  I understand the draw to the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and the west coast; mountains, sandy beaches, touristy attractions, top restaurants and breweries.  But if you're looking for a place on Cape Breton, Nova Scotia where you can really get away and escape the crowds and be one with untouched nature where you can walk for miles along rugged Atlantic coastline and not see one single person (unless you count seals and deer as people), this is the place to be.

The road that passes along the coast from Gabarus to Grand River, also known as the Fleur de Lis Trail, might look like a simple country road but the adventurous souls who've ventured off this main road and onto the gravel roads that lead to places like Morrison Beach, Ferguson Beach, Blue Lake and Crooked Lake know that there's more to this area than just trees, some lakes and a few old houses.  

Just to name a few of the coastal treasures in the area...in Sterling, you'll find pioneer cemeteries, abandoned Victorian-style farmhouses, fishing holes and an old abandoned mine that's said to be haunted.  Today, the mine features old mine workings spray painted with some colourful artwork. 

My father and I travel to the area frequently to do some hiking and fishing. My most recent trip to Framboise (the name my family uses to refer to this entire area although it includes several communities) was extra special as my sister, who hadn't been home in two years, joined  us.  

When Dad and I go to Framboise, we have a specific destination in mind. A lake to fish or a beach to comb or a trail to hike. On this day, we stopped everywhere because my sister isn't that familiar with the area since she's been living away for so long.  We stopped in Gabarus to take pictures of the pretty fishing village and visit the friendly goats that live on the hill.   We drove into the Sterling to see the spot where our old cabin used to be and watch for deer and other wildlife that's frequently spotted in this area.  We drove to Ferguson Beach and spent some time by the ocean as seals bobbed offshore.  At Grand River, we stopped to look for the bald eagles that are always perched on the poles along the bridge.

 As per tradition, we made a trip to St. Peter's for a coffee and something to eat, stopping to admire some of the old farmhouses along the way.  In St. Peter's, we grabbed some takeout at Jigg's and ate it on a picnic table near the canal as we watched the boats coming and going.   Instead of going home via route 4 as we had originally planned, we did something we don't normally do on any road trip;  We backtracked the same way we came.  The lack of traffic and the possibility of spotting wildlife later in the day motivated us to go back through Framboise.  Although we didn't see anything, the long, country road through forest and scenic coastal villages made for a relaxing drive.  

 

If you're interested in exploring this section of the Fleur de Lis Trail and what I call the Framboise area, depart Sydney via route 327 (exit 7 from the Hwy 125) towards Marion Bridge. Because it's a coastal area, the weather can be vastly different from other areas of the island.  Fog, cool winds and drizzle are common here even though it might be sunny not so far away! 

• Dress in layers and be prepared for wet conditions.
• The terrain is rugged and remote so make sure to wear sturdy, comfortable hiking shoes or boots. 
• Be aware that much of this area does not have cell phone service.
• When hiking in the woods, stay close to the trail because it's very easy to get lost.
• Be careful when swimming in the ocean in this area as there are large waves and rip currents.
  

 

 

Up Here The Views are Out of this World...Welcome to Cape Clear

I believe it was 2008. Or maybe, it was 2009.  I was still living in St. John's Newfoundland and returned home to Cape Breton Nova Scotia that summer seeking adventure in the short two weeks I had for my vacation.  I know Cape Breton Island well having explored it all my life but, despite its small size, there were still so many places in the great outdoors I hadn't seen yet and wanted to scratch some of those places off my list.  One of the places I wanted to explore was North River Falls. 

After much pleading, I convinced my father to come along with me on the 19-kilometre return hike.  He had mentioned wanting to go in the past but thought it too far to hike at his age.  I knew he could handle it and thought it might be his only chance to see those lovely waterfalls he had seen so many times only in pictures.  

The day we hiked to the falls was also the day we discovered another hidden gem quite off-the-beaten-path in the Cape Breton Highlands.  You may have recently heard about this spectacular place as many people are now discovering it. But back then when my dad and I first heard about it, it was almost unknown.  I'm talking about Cape Clear. 

It was quite by accident that dad and I learned there was a look-off up on the Highland Road in the Cape Breton Highlands somewhere and the views were among the best anywhere on the Cape Breton Island.  Hearing this, we knew we had to find it. The man who told us about it drew a map with some directions on it so we would be able to find it easily. Although it's in the Cape Breton Highlands, the shouldn't be mistaken with the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.  The park is an easily-accessible, well-maintained tourist area while the area of the highlands that the Highland Road passes through is remote. 

The first time we tried to find Cape Clear was after our hike to North River Falls.  Although we were both exhausted from the long hike (the trail had been rough the heavy rains a few days earlier), we decided to take a drive up into the Cape Breton Highlands to see if we could find Cape Clear.  It was already getting late in the day but according to the map, it didn't look too far.  The sun had gone down when we turned back toward Hunter's Mountain having not found any trace of it. It was as if it didn't exist at all.

The following week, dad and I returned to the area to search for Egypt Falls near Margaree.  It took a while to find them because they weren't where we thought they would be.  The hike to these falls isn't long so we had plenty of time to venture back out into the Great outdoors of the Cape Breton Highlands and continue our search for Cape Clear.  This time, we found it.

It was much further along that old gravel road than we thought.  We drove and drove for what seemed like hours and there it was; a sign with the words "Cape Clear" pointing to the left.  The road was not as well maintained once we left that main road but passable enough to get within a short walk of the Look-off. 

For more than a decade, I didn't return to Cape Clear or that region of the Cape Breton Highlands but over the years, many more people started to discover this treasure tucked deep in the great outdoors of Cape Breton's highest peaks. 

It wasn't until a few weeks ago that the opportunity to return to the look-off presented itself.  My sister was home from away and had heard about it and wanted to go.  Dad was hesitant because he only has a Toyota Corolla and my Hyundai Sonata is too babied to travel such a messy road.  When a family friend offered to go with us and take her Jeep, it was a done deal. Off in search of Cape Clear we went.  I say "in search of" because it was so long since I or Dad had been there that neither one of us could remember exactly how far up in the Cape Breton Highlands it was and how many turn-offs we had to make.  The hope was the signs were still up. This isn't a highly trafficked area and I have no idea who takes care of signs and if they're even replaced when they fall down or get stolen to decorate someone's shed.  

The main road wasn't so bad but it took longer than I remembered to reach the first turnoff to Cape Clear.  We even had to stop and ask some hunters for directions. "You're on the right track! Just keep driving for another 30 or so kilometres". It started to rain but turning around wasn't an option at that point. At least it wasn't snowing.  Rain is typical Cape Breton weather this time of year. It usually snows in the highlands in October. About 45 minutes after the encounter with the hunters, we reached the sign pointing to Cape Clear. 

This new road was in fairly good shape.  We drove for a bit before coming to another sign pointing to Cape Clear.  This road wasn't so great. I can't remember if we had to turn again but either way, the rest of the trip was on a pothole-ridden, muddy, narrow gravel road that got worse and worse.  Finally, we reached a giant puddle and the owner of the Jeep said "no more".  As we got our camera gear and jackets ready, a pick-up truck came from the direction we were headed.  We watched as he carefully navigated that huge puddle and cringed near the end when we heard a loud scraping sound.  Good call on leaving the Jeep behind.  We walked the rest of the way in the rain.  

Five minutes was all it took to reach the first lookoff area and the main one was only about a minute from that.  The rain let up just long enough for us to admire that stunning view.  With it being so out-of-the-way, it could be a long time before any of us return so best to enjoy it while we could and enjoy it we did.

The air up there in the Cape Breton Highlands feels different, smells different. It's so quiet and the lack of buildings and people make it sound almost hollow, for lack of a better word. Like you're on top of the world and looking down on everything else....high up where the noise and distractions of modern, everyday life can't reach you.  An escape from the real world.  The only sound was the howling wind, not through the trees but coming up from the valley below and sweeping the plateau we were standing on. It was a cold breeze.  One that brought with it a dampness that chilled to the bone.  It felt like it might snow. Now and again, the wind blew just right to get a whiff of rotting leaves that had recently fallen from nearby trees. A typical late fall day on Cape Breton Island.  

In my opinion, the views that are enjoyed at Cape Clear are the best on Cape Breton Island. If you don't believe me, just check out the pictures of the place...or take a trip up the Highland Rd. and check it out for yourself.  It's worth the trip and I promise you won't be disappointed!

 Tips for exploring Cape Clear safely:

• Dress in layers.  It gets cold way up on top of those mountains!
• Wear good walking shoes.  It helps to wear waterproof boots in case the road is muddy.
• Have emergency provisions in your vehicle in case something goes wrong. A blanket, some extra snacks and water and matches and anything else you may need to keep you safe and warm if you break down or get lost. Cell service in the area is spotty at best!
• If possible, don't go there alone.  It's quite remote and there are some dangers to be mindful of including steep drops, adverse weather conditions and wild animals such as bears and coyotes. 
• Don't overdrive your vehicle on bad roads.  This is not the place you want to get stuck in the mud!
• Don't step too close to the edge of the lookoffs.  It's a very steep drop!
  

Cabot Landing Provincial Park - A Little Off the Beaten Path but Worth a Visit

You only have to venture about 20 minutes off the Cabot Trail to enjoy a remote, long, sandy beach. Every time I make the detour to this beach at the Cabot's Landing Provincial Park, I'm usually the only person there so if you're looking to get away from the crowds, this is a great place to do that!  Add in facilities, such as bathrooms and picnic areas, and spectacular scenery and you have a little slice of paradise.  The park is located in Sugarloaf along beautiful Aspy Bay. 

Cabot's Landing Provincial Park, Cape Breton, Nova Scotia

The Underrated South Coast of Cape Breton Island

In my opinion the south coast of Cape Breton is underrated and mostly unexplored.  This is why I'm growing to love this part of the island.  I used to love being around all the tourist crowds of The Highlands when I was younger but now that I am older, I prefer a deserted beach in the middle of nowhere and there are many on the south coast!  Whether it be Morrison Beach, Crooked Lake Beach, St. Esprit, Blue Lake or Ferguson Beach I choose, I'm always the only person there and I spend hours walking these remote stretches with only the sound of the ocean, the smell of the fresh sea air and the feel of sand beneath my feet.

An Early Spring Hike Along Belfry Beach and an Adventure to a new-to-me Lake

It was a disappointing winter for me.  In November, I placed my snowshoes in the back of my car and they didn't move once.  Believe it or not, although I live in Atlantic Canada in a region known for usually getting a lot of snow, hardly anything more than a thin layer fell at any given time.  When a substantial amount did fall, it was easily whisked away by a steady stream of cold rain that quickly turned ground into a skating rink.Now that it's spring, I'm betting that my snowshoes will be of no use this year at all and my hiking shoes are already out.

I'm definitely not getting outdoors as much as I usually do in the winter and spring months but late last week, I did finally get out for a hike in one of my favorite areas of Cape Breton. I left fairly early on a Friday morning and headed toward Belfry Beach.  It was a nice day but it was quite windy so my intention was to check the beach out and see what it would be like for hiking.  It looked fine so I left the car At the bottom of MacKay Road and started the long hike along Belfry Beach to Fourchu.

The first leg of the journey went quite well.  The sun was shining, the temperature was comfortable and the waves rolling ashore lulled me into a state of relaxation that can only be found on a remote, deserted beach.  I walked for about 45 minutes before reaching a nice sheltered area surrounded by trees and bushes beneath a cliff.  Not a breath of wind could be felt there so I sat in the sand and enjoyed my homemade lunch and a beer.  I could hear the wind howling on the other side of the cliff and dreaded rounding that bend to continue up the beach with that breeze whipping me in the face.

Once I bundled up again and rounded that bend, that howling wind only battered me for a few minutes before I got used to it.  The long walk to Forchu wasn't so bad and all the walking overheated me to the point that I had to remove my jacket!  I saw no wildlife that day on the beach and that is strange in that area.  Usually I see some bald eagles or seals or sometimes even a deer but nothing was seen that day.

My next stop was at a new-to-me trail to a lake I had never been to before.  I drove for about twenty minutes towards the Framboise area until I reached an old wood road on the right hand side.  I parked the car off the road and started into the woods.  It was a nice change to be among the trees.  There was hardly any wind and it was much warmer than it was near the ocean.  I love a variety of terrain in my days and that day I spend one half of it listening to the sounds of waves hitting the shore and the other half listening to trees rustling in a soft gentle breeze.

I was told by others who had recently hiked to this lake that it was only about a kilometre hike in.  I walked and walked and walked for what seemed like a long time.  A glance at the activity tracker on my phone indicated I had long passed the one kilometre mark.  I hiked just over two kilometres before the lake came into view.

I was surprised by how large the lake was and even more surprised at the fact that I didn't even know it existed until recently.  It was still covered in a tick layer of ice.  I walked along the edge just a little, consciously not venturing too far for fear of falling through the ice into the freezing cold water. I could see some weak spots in the centre, an indication that the day's mild temperatures and sunny skies had quickened the thawing process.

Darkness was approaching quickly and when I finally decided to start hiking back toward my car, the sun was starting it's slow descent into the horizon.  At one point I thought I heard something in the distance.  A howl or some sort of yell.  I stopped.  Nothing.  I heard it again and stopped.  Nothing.  The third time I stopped and listened, there was a distinct sound coming from the area of the lake where I had just been; coyotes.  I'm not afraid of coyotes while hiking as I've never had any issues with them but I still have a preference to keep my distance.  I picked up the pace a bit and in no time I was back at the car.  It always seems quicker going back for some reason, doesn't it?  A total of four more kilometres to add to the day's total of 15 kilometres.

I hate to go straight home after a wonderful day spent in the wilderness.  I like to drag the adventure on as long as possible.  Instead of backtracking home the same way I came, I took the long way back through Grand River and instead of turning right onto Route 4, I turned left and made a little detour the pretty village of St. Peter's where I stopped for a coffee and a muffin before heading home along the Bras d'Or Lakes. 

A Hike Along the Remote and Rocky Shores of Fourchu - A Colourful Beach and a Deserted Island

I do a bit of hiking in the Summer but , for the most part, the weather is too hot or I'm just too busy to do any long trails. The fall is when I try to do the bulk of my hiking throughout the year. It's not too hot, it's not too cold and my schedule tends to be less hectic.

One of the first real hikes I did this fall was in Forchu along the southern coast of Cape Breton Island. It was a bit cold, windy and damp the day I set out on this trail but I dressed warm and headed out, determined to complete it from start to finish without letting the weather deter me. I often hike alone, especially since I moved back to Cape Breton but I've been meeting more people who have the same interests as me and more often than not lately, I have company on the trails as I did on this day.
I'd been to the Forchu area many times before but never hiked in the area so the idea of hiking a new trail was exciting for me....except this trail wasn't exactly a trail; It was a rugged coastal path that wasn't worn in enough to be able to actually see any path. Fortunately, we had someone with us who knew the area well and was able to guide us safely along the rugged coastline.


The hike started out easy and got a bit more difficult as we moved further along the beach and remote area of coastline. The air was chilly and windy but in a refreshing way. With all the hard walking I was doing, that chilly air combined with a light spray coming off the cold Atlantic provided welcome relief.

The first thing I noticed about that beach was how colourful it was. I'm referring to the rocks. Millions of rocks each one different. yes, I know most beaches have millions of unique rocks but there was something more rich and vibrant about the rocks on this beach that made it stick out from any other rocky beach I'd ever seen.


We were walking for quite a while when I decided to inquire exactly how long of a hike we were embarking on. The only person familiar with it pointed ahead and said "see that point. It's well beyond that". That point looked like it was a hundred miles away! Not that I minded. I love long hikes, especially coastal ones with scenery like this one. There was so much to look at. Seals bobbing in the rough surf, boats passing by on the distant horizon, deep forest lining the shoreline, various beach "treasures" that were washed ashore in storms. There was a smell too. A smell that is common along the seashore in fall. Rotting seaweed. Yes, to some, that may sound like the most unappealing smell in the world but I know I'm close to the sea when that smell fills my nostrils and as long as I'm by the sea, I don't care if the seaweed smells bad.

We walked for quite a long time before we reached that bend and I was finally able to see exactly how far we were going to go....and it was far. There was a possibility if the tide had been too high, we would have to turn back but since it was low, we pressed on toward our goal - the small island attached to the beach by a causeway that is fully exposed during low tide but submerged underwater during high tide.

As we inched closer to that island, the wind picked up ever so slightly and the ocean spray began to sting my face a little. I started to walk with my head tilted more towards the ground and that is when I noticed there was a lot of dog footprints in the sand. I wondered why a dog would be all the way out here on this remote beach and there were no human footprints accompanying the prints. And that is when it dawned on me that these weren't dog footprints at all, they were coyote prints. Good thing I brought my big walking stick and bear spray with me because these prints looked fresh.


It's hard to believe that the wide causeway leading out to the island had been submerged under a few feet of water only hours before. We were able to walk straight out to the island and climb right to the very top and look out at the wonderful view around us. Of course, because it was a deserted island in the middle of nowhere surrounded by beautiful scenery, it was also the perfect place to have a picnic. A small field on the side that was sheltered and out of the wind did the trick.
The walk back was much colder as we were walking into the wind. It seemed to take forever to get back to the car. Not that I like to rush my hikes but my hands were so cold, I couldn't feel them! But like always, they regained their colour soon after I reached the car and I was able to move them enough to grasp the cold steering wheel to begin the long drive home along that country road that by that time was encompassed in the soft glow of a setting sun and impending twilight. Another day, another trail knocked off that list.

Me at the very top of the little island...what a view!