Up Here The Views are Out of this World...Welcome to Cape Clear

I believe it was 2008. Or maybe, it was 2009.  I was still living in St. John's Newfoundland and returned home to Cape Breton Nova Scotia that summer seeking adventure in the short two weeks I had for my vacation.  I know Cape Breton Island well having explored it all my life but, despite its small size, there were still so many places in the great outdoors I hadn't seen yet and wanted to scratch some of those places off my list.  One of the places I wanted to explore was North River Falls. 

After much pleading, I convinced my father to come along with me on the 19-kilometre return hike.  He had mentioned wanting to go in the past but thought it too far to hike at his age.  I knew he could handle it and thought it might be his only chance to see those lovely waterfalls he had seen so many times only in pictures.  

The day we hiked to the falls was also the day we discovered another hidden gem quite off-the-beaten-path in the Cape Breton Highlands.  You may have recently heard about this spectacular place as many people are now discovering it. But back then when my dad and I first heard about it, it was almost unknown.  I'm talking about Cape Clear. 

It was quite by accident that dad and I learned there was a look-off up on the Highland Road in the Cape Breton Highlands somewhere and the views were among the best anywhere on the Cape Breton Island.  Hearing this, we knew we had to find it. The man who told us about it drew a map with some directions on it so we would be able to find it easily. Although it's in the Cape Breton Highlands, the shouldn't be mistaken with the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.  The park is an easily-accessible, well-maintained tourist area while the area of the highlands that the Highland Road passes through is remote. 

The first time we tried to find Cape Clear was after our hike to North River Falls.  Although we were both exhausted from the long hike (the trail had been rough the heavy rains a few days earlier), we decided to take a drive up into the Cape Breton Highlands to see if we could find Cape Clear.  It was already getting late in the day but according to the map, it didn't look too far.  The sun had gone down when we turned back toward Hunter's Mountain having not found any trace of it. It was as if it didn't exist at all.

The following week, dad and I returned to the area to search for Egypt Falls near Margaree.  It took a while to find them because they weren't where we thought they would be.  The hike to these falls isn't long so we had plenty of time to venture back out into the Great outdoors of the Cape Breton Highlands and continue our search for Cape Clear.  This time, we found it.

It was much further along that old gravel road than we thought.  We drove and drove for what seemed like hours and there it was; a sign with the words "Cape Clear" pointing to the left.  The road was not as well maintained once we left that main road but passable enough to get within a short walk of the Look-off. 

For more than a decade, I didn't return to Cape Clear or that region of the Cape Breton Highlands but over the years, many more people started to discover this treasure tucked deep in the great outdoors of Cape Breton's highest peaks. 

It wasn't until a few weeks ago that the opportunity to return to the look-off presented itself.  My sister was home from away and had heard about it and wanted to go.  Dad was hesitant because he only has a Toyota Corolla and my Hyundai Sonata is too babied to travel such a messy road.  When a family friend offered to go with us and take her Jeep, it was a done deal. Off in search of Cape Clear we went.  I say "in search of" because it was so long since I or Dad had been there that neither one of us could remember exactly how far up in the Cape Breton Highlands it was and how many turn-offs we had to make.  The hope was the signs were still up. This isn't a highly trafficked area and I have no idea who takes care of signs and if they're even replaced when they fall down or get stolen to decorate someone's shed.  

The main road wasn't so bad but it took longer than I remembered to reach the first turnoff to Cape Clear.  We even had to stop and ask some hunters for directions. "You're on the right track! Just keep driving for another 30 or so kilometres". It started to rain but turning around wasn't an option at that point. At least it wasn't snowing.  Rain is typical Cape Breton weather this time of year. It usually snows in the highlands in October. About 45 minutes after the encounter with the hunters, we reached the sign pointing to Cape Clear. 

This new road was in fairly good shape.  We drove for a bit before coming to another sign pointing to Cape Clear.  This road wasn't so great. I can't remember if we had to turn again but either way, the rest of the trip was on a pothole-ridden, muddy, narrow gravel road that got worse and worse.  Finally, we reached a giant puddle and the owner of the Jeep said "no more".  As we got our camera gear and jackets ready, a pick-up truck came from the direction we were headed.  We watched as he carefully navigated that huge puddle and cringed near the end when we heard a loud scraping sound.  Good call on leaving the Jeep behind.  We walked the rest of the way in the rain.  

Five minutes was all it took to reach the first lookoff area and the main one was only about a minute from that.  The rain let up just long enough for us to admire that stunning view.  With it being so out-of-the-way, it could be a long time before any of us return so best to enjoy it while we could and enjoy it we did.

The air up there in the Cape Breton Highlands feels different, smells different. It's so quiet and the lack of buildings and people make it sound almost hollow, for lack of a better word. Like you're on top of the world and looking down on everything else....high up where the noise and distractions of modern, everyday life can't reach you.  An escape from the real world.  The only sound was the howling wind, not through the trees but coming up from the valley below and sweeping the plateau we were standing on. It was a cold breeze.  One that brought with it a dampness that chilled to the bone.  It felt like it might snow. Now and again, the wind blew just right to get a whiff of rotting leaves that had recently fallen from nearby trees. A typical late fall day on Cape Breton Island.  

In my opinion, the views that are enjoyed at Cape Clear are the best on Cape Breton Island. If you don't believe me, just check out the pictures of the place...or take a trip up the Highland Rd. and check it out for yourself.  It's worth the trip and I promise you won't be disappointed!

 Tips for exploring Cape Clear safely:

• Dress in layers.  It gets cold way up on top of those mountains!
• Wear good walking shoes.  It helps to wear waterproof boots in case the road is muddy.
• Have emergency provisions in your vehicle in case something goes wrong. A blanket, some extra snacks and water and matches and anything else you may need to keep you safe and warm if you break down or get lost. Cell service in the area is spotty at best!
• If possible, don't go there alone.  It's quite remote and there are some dangers to be mindful of including steep drops, adverse weather conditions and wild animals such as bears and coyotes. 
• Don't overdrive your vehicle on bad roads.  This is not the place you want to get stuck in the mud!
• Don't step too close to the edge of the lookoffs.  It's a very steep drop!