While many see
September 1st and back-to-school time as the end of summer, I refuse to
acknowledge that the end is here until the official start of fall on September 22nd.
Currently, I'm still going for almost daily
dips in the ocean, I'm still wearing shorts and tank tops no matter what the
temperature and I'm still embarking on road trips to explore beautiful CapeBreton Island. The best thing about this
time of year after school goes back is I have the beaches, trails and
attractions almost to myself!
When I looked at the
long-term forecast on September 6th, I noticed a series of hot, sunny days
coming up. On September 9th, I embarked
on what would turn into a two-day journey through four counties and dozens of
little villages in the western and central parts of the island.
As I made my way along
the Trans Canada Highway headed for the turn-off to the Cabot Trail near
Baddeck, I was looking forward to a nice big breakfast at one of my favourite
restaurants.
I intended to stop at The Cedar House Restaurant near the Seal
Island Bridge. This is something I do at least once before they close for the
season. All I could think about on the
way there was the tasty breakfast with sausage, eggs, toast and hash
browns.
I arrived in the
parking lot at around 9:30 and was disappointed to see a "CLOSED"
sign in the window. I contemplated
waiting around until 11:00, which was the opening time indicated on the sign,
but I wanted to get on the road early.
Fitzgerald's, which is almost next door and has equally delicious
breakfast, was also closed. I settled
for a Tim Horton's breakfast sandwich, hash brown and chocolate chip muffin
which I bought at the Tim's near Baddeck and ate on the scenic boardwalk in the
pretty little village on the Bras d'Or Lakes.
I love Baddeck.
There's just something about that quaint little village that draws me in. Unfortunately, I didn't get to spend a whole
lot of time in the town this year so my little visit that morning, despite
being quick and unplanned, was a welcome little rest before heading out on the
day's adventure.
At the Red Barn, I
turn onto the world-famous Cabot Trail. I love driving along this part of the
Trail through Hunter's Mountain, Middle River, Lake O'Law and onto Margaree
Harbour.
It's a relaxing, beautiful
drive, especially when traffic is light as it was on this day. Road construction annoys me but I admit I was
happy to see a road crew working on a stretch of this road that was getting
very bad over the last few years.
I made it to Inverness
Beach at 11:30, which was about the time I expected to arrive. The forecast was calling for showers and
clouds were moving in. Despite a few
dark spots in the afternoon, the rain never came, at least not where I
was.
I heard it rained in other places
but I enjoyed a refreshing dip in waters so clear that even without the sun
shining down, I could still see straight to the bottom. I swam for about an hour in those warm, clear
waters.
To dry off, I walked almost
the entire length of that four-kilometre beach before coming back to my chair
to relax in the sun, which, by that time, was shining.
I wasn't expecting it to get hot enough to
want to go back in the water but by the time I completely dried off, I was
craving another dip. This time of year, I never know if a dip in the ocean will
be my last of the season. I thought to
myself "to heck with it, I only live once" and spent the next two
hours in the water.
As I floated in the
calm sea all by my lonesome, the thought that great white sharks could be
lurking nearby didn't even cross my mind.
After all, how scary could a bunch of Ocearch-tagged sharks with names
like Jane, Hal and Luna be anyway?
It was late afternoon
and starting to cloud over when I came out of the water the second time so I
didn't dry off as fast. But it was worth it even if it meant a wet car seat,
dripping hair and a car full of caked sand.
I had planned to stop
at some of the beaches along the way to Cheticamp - Chimney Corner, Whale Cove,
Belle Cote - but my extra-long visit to Inverness Beach meant I had little time
to reach the little Acadian village in time for supper at Le Gabriel Restaurant.
I did, however, take
my time driving along the coast between Margaree Harbour and Cheticamp. This is
one of my favourite stretches of road on the island. Ocean on one side,
mountains on the other, windy two-lane road stretching through quaint little
villages in front of me.
It only took about
five minutes for the fantastic staff at Le Gabriel to prepare my veggie nachos
and gluten-free chocolate cake, which I enjoyed overlooking the ocean at the
bottom of Lapointe Rd. at the edge of town. The meal was, as it always is, delicious. As usual, the portions are always too big for
me so I was unable to finish all the nachos.
I left room for cake
and took the nachos home for a snack later that night. I grabbed a coffee for
the road and drove a little ways along the Cabot Trail through the Cape Breton
Highlands National Park before turning around at the construction zone near
Corney Brook.
Evening was approaching when I turned off on the Cheticamp Back
Road. I always take this road when
heading back towards Route 19. It's a nice change of scenery in the foothills
of the mountains.
At the intersection of
the main road, I kept going straight onto Cheticamp Island, another short, but
scenic drive I like to do whenever I pass through the area.
Back on the highway, I
intended to head towards Baddeck at Margaree Harbour. But almost as if my car
knows the way, it turned onto the road that goes through St. Rose and Chimney
Corner and then onto the Beach Road #2 in Inverness to find a parking spot in
the exact same place I parked only a few hours before.
Sunset was approaching. The water was calm. The water was clear. The air was still
warm. I couldn't resist another dip in
the ocean.
The sunsets on the west coast of the island are
among the most beautiful I've ever seen anywhere in the world. Beautiful sunset + dip in warm, clear waters
= an unforgettable summer evening. There's
just something about the way those waters glisten in that fading light and the calmness
I sense when those gentle waves lull me into a state of sheer bliss.
I don't usually like
driving home through remote areas late at night because there are a lot of
moose and deer around. I took my time
driving along that dark, lonely road through Margaree. Until Next time....