A Fall Trip Around the Cabot Trail

When the Celtic Colours Festival schedule was released, I immediately looked at it to seeif there were any community events I could attend on my days off.  Specifically, I was searching for guided hikes.  Two stuck out but I ultimately chose the Aspy Bay Trail because it was longer and in an area of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park that I hadn't done a lot of hiking in. 

The hike started at 10:00 AM and since it was an almost three-hour drive, I left before 7 that morning.  I didn't take into account traffic delays with the Newfoundland ferry traffic at that hour of the day and construction work.  I knew by the time I reached Ingonish that I would be late and there was no point in rushing because I was never going to make it in time.  I was ok with that since the wind came up and it started to rain. Four hours in the highlands trudging over rough terrain didn't sound all that appealing in the rain. 

I took my time going over the Cabot Trail admiring the beautiful fall colours. I have to say that this year is the best I've seen the fall colours in a long time and when the sun peaked out every now and again, it made those sprawling vistas even more beautiful!

It was 11:00 when I passed the trailhead to Aspy Bay.  Before I reached it, I took a little detour and stopped at Cabot's Landing Beach in Cape North.  I was only out of the car five minutes when the weather took a turn for the worse so I turned back to the Cabot Trail and kept going over the mountains.

The Lone Sheiling is one of my favourite stops along The Trail so I stopped there and got at least a little hike in since I missed the one I came for.  It rained there too but at least I had that thick canopy to shelter me.  I contemplated hiking the Skyline Trail as I hadn't done it yet this year but it was way too windy to enjoy it. 

I intended to eat my lunch in Cheticamp but hunger struck about a half hour from the village.  I stopped at La Grand Falaise and faced my car toward the ocean so I had a view while I ate in the warmth of the car. 

At Cheticamp Island I attempted to walk the beach but, once again, the weather took a turn for the worse.  This time it was high wind, heavy rain and hail!  

I left the island and drove straight through Margaree, Lake O'Law and Middle River where the fall colours were even more spectacular!  Even with the poor weather conditions, it was an amazing day and I got to do a trip around the trail while the leaves were still on the trees and turning those vibrant colours.  This time next week, they won't be nearly as nice. 

The Wildlife of Kananaskis Country

While visiting with my sister and seeing her new-to-me place was a priority during my trip to Alberta, the mountains and scenery were a welcome bonus!  But there was something else that drew me to the remote area of Kananaskis and that's the wildlife.  "There are deer, elk, bears and bighorn sheep everywhere" was all I heard from anyone who was familiar with the region and I certainly wasn't disappointed on this trip when it came to the abundance of wildlife. 

As soon as we turned off the Trans Canada onto the Kananaskis Trail, we saw three deer and several bighorn sheep.  While unpacking, I heard stories from my sister and her partner about animal encounters in the area.  A neighbor's dog was injured in a cougar attack, a grizzly bear wandered through the backyard in broad daylight and black bears raided some nearby campsites. 

The second day I was there, I saw three black bears.  One mamma bear and her cub eating in someone's backyard and a huge black bear walking down a remote road. Later that same day as we watched from on top of a hill overlooking the golf course, a very large grizzly bear walked around an area where several golfers were teeing off nearby. I don't think they had any idea that the bear was in the area and the bear didn't seem to be bothered by the activity nearby. 

I was a little afraid to drive by myself after my sister went back to work.  There were so many animals wandering onto the road at all hours of the day, I was scared I would hit one and damage her car or one of the sheep would turn and attack the car as I tried to get by them.  Those bighorn sheep like to block traffic and honking, waving and yelling does nothing to get them to move any quicker or budge an inch so you can get by.  They move when they feel like it.  Sometimes they move and several others will run out of the woods from the other side and sometimes they turn around and look like they are going to start kicking or head bunting the car. 

Here at home, the whitetail deer either run out in front of cars or stand in the middle of the road.  They are constantly getting hit!  But in Kananaskis, the deer just stayed in the ditch nibbling on grass.  I didn't see any on the road at all.  

Grey squirrels are certainly plentiful in Kananaskis but it was there strange behavior that caught my attention.  In the mornings, the little squirrels were lined up along the highway on their hind legs and facing the sun.  Not sure why they were doing this but it was definitely a cute and funny thing to see.

Although I had seen a grizzly on the golf course, it was so far away, I couldn't get a decent picture.  I kept hoping to see another one from a safe but closer distance and I finally did get that chance.  I dropped my sister off at work and drove to the entrance of Peter Lougheed Provincial Park.  I noticed a car pulled over to the side of the road and two people with cameras looking in a grassy area.  I scanned the area looking for whatever it was that caught their attention and there it was; a large grizzly bear calmly eating some grass and making it's way across the field to a little stream. 

 

An afternoon of Fly-fishing in Kananaskis Country

For several years now, I've listened to my sister talk about her and her partner's fly-fishing adventures in the Kananaskis back-country and have admired her photos from afar on social media.  When she came home for a visit last year, I got a chance to go fishing with her but one of the things I knew I wanted to do during my visit to Alberta was to go fly-fishing in one of her favorite spots in the mountains. 

On my third day in Kananaskis Country, I got to do that.  We got up early, packed up some gear and headed to a nearby trail where one of her favorite fishing spots was located.  I, unfortunately, ended up with a bad cold and was sick as a dog that day but after popping some Advil Cold and Flu, I felt ready to hike the relatively short distance to this fishing hole. 

We hiked for about 40 minutes through thick forest with stunning views of the river and surrounding mountains.  It was a relaxing hike except for when the thought of grizzly bears crossed my mind.  At home, I don't have to worry about anything eating me while I'm hiking but in Alberta, you have cougars, wolves, black bears and grizzly bears to worry about.  I had seen a number of bears in the area the previous day so, naturally, I was checking behind me more frequently than normal. 

When we reached our destination, I stood in awe at the view and knew immediately why my sister had chosen this spot as one of her favorites.  I could sit there all day just taking in that fresh mountain air.  There were no other people around, the only sound was the sound of the leaves rustling in the trees and the river flowing.  My kind of place. 

I tried a little bit of fishing but was mostly content to just sit on a nearby rock and watch my sister do her thing.  We didn't get any bites that day but neither of us cared.  We just wanted to get away in the wilderness and enjoy the peace and quiet of the natural surroundings. 

My first Full Day in Beautiful Kananaskis Country

I awoke fairly early on that first morning in Kananaskis Country despite having not slept for so long in the days previously. We had some breakfast and retreated to the backyard where there were some benches, hammocks and a fire pit.  I couldn't believe how calm and quiet it was!  All I could hear was a light wind rustling the treetops, some birds chirping and a ground squirrel nibbling on an acorn. My sister kept complaining about how cold it was but to me, it was just right.  I just came from Atlantic Canada where the air was damp, heavy and chill to the bone.  The dry mountain air was a welcoming relief. 

That first day, we went for a hike to troll falls.  I am used to long hikes but after a day of traveling, this relatively short and easy hike was perfect for my first full day in The Rockies. The first leg of the trail snaked through some dense forest with towering trees and thick canopy to keep the hot sun out.  

It didn't take too long to reach the picturesque waterfall.  There were signs everywhere telling people to avoid certain areas due to erosion and rock slides but the area immediately behind the waterfall looked safe so I took my chances.  I wandered behind the falls while the cool water sprayed my face.  It was like the walk that takes you behind Niagara Falls, but without the dense crowds.  

We climbed up another steep part of the trail to reach another little waterfall called Marmot Falls. The climb down to the main part of the trail was easier then the climb up and when we reached the fork in the trail, we took a different way back to the parking lot.  This time, we passed through an open meadow on the edge of the forest. The views of the mountains bordering the area were spectacular. I am used to walking fast at home because I am usually walking to work or walking for exercise.  Here, there was no reason to walk fast.  I wasn't in a hurry to get anywhere.  I enjoyed the slow pace while just enjoying the views and the fresh mountain air. 

 

 

The Journey From the Atlantic Coast to the Stunning Rocky Mountains of Alberta

I am one of very few Cape Bretoners who never lived or worked in Alberta Canada but both of my sisters and many of my extended family members and friends either have or still do live there.  That means I have a strong connection to the province.  Currently, it's the Calgary Alberta region that has the strongest connection to me as my sister and her partner currently live and work about an hour from there in a remote area of the Canadian Rockies known as Kananaskis Country.  This is where I recently went on a week-long vacation and loved it so much that I think I'll make Alberta travel a priority.  I've been longing to get back there to see the mountains again.  After all, it had been nearly 16 years!  I felt 2024 was a good time to return.

 I searched and searched for flight deals but found nothing.  I was surprised at the prices as they were so much higher than the last time I traveled to Alberta. I booked my flight about a month in advance with the rest of my Airmiles.  It was my first time flying in six years.  I was used to going on vacation somewhere far at least once a year but due to various things (work, Covid) I didn't go anywhere for a really long time. I was a little anxious because I didn't know what to expect.  All I heard from others who traveled recently and from the news was stories about flight delays, cancellations and other travel-related issues.  Fortunately, the flight to Calgary was mostly fine.  My flight was from Toronto to Calgary was cancelled but swiftly rebooked about 45 minutes later than the original flight.  Not a huge deal. 

My sister was waiting for me when I arrived and we immediately headed for the Trans Canada Highway and left the big city behind.  I saw the city skyline as we drove towards the Rocky Mountains.  That was enough for me.  Urban sprawl was the last thing on my mind; I couldn't wait to get to the remote tranquility of Kananaskis Country in the midst of some of the most beautiful scenery in the entire country. 

I wanted to sleep during the drive since I hadn't slept in over 24 hours by that poin but I was so excited to see the Rocky Mountains getting bigger and bigger as we drove towards them that I was unable to close my eyes.  The first time I drove that stretch of highway many years earlier, I was so struck by the beauty of those towering peaks that tears welled in my eyes.  

Once we found our way out of the city, the drive took about an hour.  I was looking forward to seeing my sister's current living arrangements as I'd only seen pictures.  I knew we had arrived when I saw the sign for Mt. Kidd RV Park.  Off to the side of the park was a small community of people who worked in the area and were able to live a cozy little neighborhood surrounded by snow-capped mountain peaks and thick forest. 

I instantly fell in love with her place.  So many memories of her and her partner's outdoor adventures were plastered all over the cozy dwelling.  Pictures, maps, souvenirs and knick knacks made it almost museum-like.  I spent much of the first while there just looking around and feeling happy that my sister had found someone to share these incredible adventures with. 

I knew I needed rest but I also thought it better to try and maintain a normal schedule.  That meant going to sleep around my normal time. 

After a tour of her home, some unpacking and a quick bite to eat, we took a drive around the Kananaskis region to get me familiar with it.  I was awestruck by the beauty but even more awestruck by that fact that there was hardly any people around!  I knew instantly that this was my kind of place; Serene natural surroundings to enjoy mostly all to myself!

Spectacular Mountain Views are in no Shortage on Cape Breton Island

Whether you are in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, cruising through the Margaree Valley or enjoying the views from the many scenic look-offs that are located around the Cabot Trail, mountain vistas are a common sight! Some of the most notable mountains on the island include:
 

Kelly's Mountain, which is located in the Trans Canada Highway, has two scenic look-offs and stunning views of the Seal Island Bridge. Elevation: 267 metres.
 

Cape Smokey Mountain, which is located along the Cabot Trail via Englishtown, is home to a provincial park, exciting hairpin turns and ocean views.  Elevation: 322 metres.
 

French Mountain, which is situated between Cheticamp and Pleasant Bay, is mostly-known for being the location of one of Atlantic Canada's most iconic hiking trails, The Skyline Trail.  Elevation 430 metres. 

North Mountain features beautiful mountain views and, in the winter, is known for having giant snow squalls that easily tower over the tallest of vehicles. Elevation: 479 metres
 

MacKenzie Mountain features lovely views of Pleasant Bay.  Elevation 355 metres.
 

Franey Mountain, which is located in Ingonish, also has a scenic hiking trail and some of the best views around.  Elevation: 430 metres

It's a fairly steep climb to the top but the views from the trail on Franey Mountain are incredible.

My dad and I hiked the Franey Mountain Trail a few years ago and I can't wait to hike it again this fall!

The view from the Skyline Trail on French Mountain.

The view of Cape Smokey Mountain from Ingonish Beach