Annual Father-Daughter Camping Trip

And yet another weekend I look forward to every summer is the camping trip I do with my Dad. Our first father-daughter camping trip was over a decade ago when I moved back home after being away for many years and we've gone every year since except during Covid lockdowns.  

We used to go to a secluded spot at the end of a very long gravel road leading to a beautiful beach.  Unfortunately, we have since learned that this spot is on private property and the owner has asked us not to camp there anymore. The past few summer's, we've been camping at Battery Provincial Park in St. Peters.  It's not secluded and certainly not wild like our old spot but the sites at this campground are so large and set back from the road that it feels sort of remote. 

We took the long way to St. Peter's through Marion Bridge, Gabarus, Forchu and Framboise stopping along the way at various points of interest.  We stopped at the beach in Gabarus and walked along the shore searching for treasure with dad's new metal detector.  We stopped in Forchu to take some pictures of the boats going out.  We stopped at our old camping spot and had a picnic.  By the time we made it to St. Peter's, we could check-in and set up camp for the night before the forecasted rain moved in.  There was some thunder in the distance and scattered rain showers throughout the day but nothing compared to the downpour that happened only minutes after I retreated to my tent for the night!

After we set up camp, we visited a couple of the museums around town and grabbed some supper at a restaurant in nearby Louisdale. When it got dark enough, we lit a fire and watched the night sky.  

In the morning, we left everything up to dry and headed to St. Peter's for breakfast.  By the time we returned, everything was ready to pack up.  Dad headed home to same way we came and I headed to Point Michaud Beach to check out the Surf Competition that is held there every year. It's a beautiful beach with clear waters and large rolling waves but I was only able to tolerate the water for about five minutes before I got pins and needles from the cold.  It was not nearly as warm as the water at many of the other beaches around Cape Breton! 

A Family Outing to The Untouched, Underrated part of Cape Breton Island

The south coast of Cape Breton Island is underrated and under-traveled and frankly, I kind of like it that way. 

However, I feel the need to share my south coast adventures because if you haven't explored the area, you're missing out!  I understand the draw to the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and the west coast; mountains, sandy beaches, touristy attractions, top restaurants and breweries.  But if you're looking for a place on Cape Breton, Nova Scotia where you can really get away and escape the crowds and be one with untouched nature where you can walk for miles along rugged Atlantic coastline and not see one single person (unless you count seals and deer as people), this is the place to be.

The road that passes along the coast from Gabarus to Grand River, also known as the Fleur de Lis Trail, might look like a simple country road but the adventurous souls who've ventured off this main road and onto the gravel roads that lead to places like Morrison Beach, Ferguson Beach, Blue Lake and Crooked Lake know that there's more to this area than just trees, some lakes and a few old houses.  

Just to name a few of the coastal treasures in the area...in Sterling, you'll find pioneer cemeteries, abandoned Victorian-style farmhouses, fishing holes and an old abandoned mine that's said to be haunted.  Today, the mine features old mine workings spray painted with some colourful artwork. 

My father and I travel to the area frequently to do some hiking and fishing. My most recent trip to Framboise (the name my family uses to refer to this entire area although it includes several communities) was extra special as my sister, who hadn't been home in two years, joined  us.  

When Dad and I go to Framboise, we have a specific destination in mind. A lake to fish or a beach to comb or a trail to hike. On this day, we stopped everywhere because my sister isn't that familiar with the area since she's been living away for so long.  We stopped in Gabarus to take pictures of the pretty fishing village and visit the friendly goats that live on the hill.   We drove into the Sterling to see the spot where our old cabin used to be and watch for deer and other wildlife that's frequently spotted in this area.  We drove to Ferguson Beach and spent some time by the ocean as seals bobbed offshore.  At Grand River, we stopped to look for the bald eagles that are always perched on the poles along the bridge.

 As per tradition, we made a trip to St. Peter's for a coffee and something to eat, stopping to admire some of the old farmhouses along the way.  In St. Peter's, we grabbed some takeout at Jigg's and ate it on a picnic table near the canal as we watched the boats coming and going.   Instead of going home via route 4 as we had originally planned, we did something we don't normally do on any road trip;  We backtracked the same way we came.  The lack of traffic and the possibility of spotting wildlife later in the day motivated us to go back through Framboise.  Although we didn't see anything, the long, country road through forest and scenic coastal villages made for a relaxing drive.  

 

If you're interested in exploring this section of the Fleur de Lis Trail and what I call the Framboise area, depart Sydney via route 327 (exit 7 from the Hwy 125) towards Marion Bridge. Because it's a coastal area, the weather can be vastly different from other areas of the island.  Fog, cool winds and drizzle are common here even though it might be sunny not so far away! 

• Dress in layers and be prepared for wet conditions.
• The terrain is rugged and remote so make sure to wear sturdy, comfortable hiking shoes or boots. 
• Be aware that much of this area does not have cell phone service.
• When hiking in the woods, stay close to the trail because it's very easy to get lost.
• Be careful when swimming in the ocean in this area as there are large waves and rip currents.
  

 

 

Summer Goes by Quick when It's a Good One

The weather on Cape Breton Island, where I'm enjoying my staycation this summer, is still quite nice after the prolonged and record-breaking heat wave of mid-July to late August.  Everyone around me complained non-stop about the heat but it didn't stop me.  While many took to spending hot afternoons in air-conditioned malls and supermarkets, I continued to do what I love to do best during the summer months...enjoying summer!  We have long winters and summer is a long time coming when we are in the midst of winter.  When the snow melts and the temperatures rise, I take advantage of every moment I can to get outside and enjoy nature.

I planned to do some traveling this summer with possible trips to Alberta and Iceland but I was having such a good summer here in Cape Breton that I decided to stay put and put the bigger trips on hold until maybe the late fall or perhaps next year.  So far, I've done some new things this year.  I recently purchased a bike rack for the car and took my bike on a journey further away than usual.  I drove to the old rail-bed in the Gardiner where some windmills now take up some space in some woods there.  A road is there now and bikers have been using it. It wasn't very long but it was a very peaceful journey through a wooded area that is surprisingly quiet despite being close to a highway.  I peddled right to the end where the brook is and stopped for a break.

Before the weather turned unbearably hot for hiking, I did get out for one hike along the beaches of Forchu with a few friends.  It was a long hike but the air was cool and a refreshing ocean mist dusted my face for much of the day.  We went so far and reached a raging brook.  After contemplating the tides and weighing the pros and cons, we took our shoes off and crossed.  Not my first choice when dealing with tides but I later found out that the option to take another trail back to the highway was available if it came to that.

As we walked, I noticed some seabirds growing agitated.  Their agitation grew the further we went but I couldn't figure out why. When we walked onto a little rock causeway that led to an island that appears during low tide, the birds became frantic and that's when it occurred to me that there were nests in the area.  Sure enough, I looked only a few feet away from where I stood frozen after my realization.  Three little eggs were nestled into some grass and there were more all over the area.  We quickly and carefully left the area and they stopped following us.

We crossed over the banks of the beach onto the river side and took out a couple of beers to enjoy in the cool breeze.   A relaxing hour of just sitting and staring at the water, sky and trees mixed with a rock-skipping competition and walking-stick-balancing competition.  After the long walk back to the car, a late lunch and hot tea was enjoyed at a look-off in Forchu.  I couldn't believe I had not known of that look-off before but it looked like many people were aware of it; a tattered Cape Breton Flag lay balancing on some rocks and someone had made some little ornaments to line the top of the driveway.

I stuck around home the next evening and took in the fireworks for Coal Dust Days in New Waterford.  I desperately wanted to master the art of photographing fireworks (just one of many things I want to master taking pictures of...lightning, full moons and waterfalls are some others) and I think I finally got it!

More adventures came not long after that lovely hike in Framboise but this time I got to enjoy them with my sister who has not been home from Calgary since the summer of 2016.  A drive to Louisbourg was the first thing she wanted to do after a much-needed rest after her flight.  Of course she wanted to visit all the usual spots around the town; the lighthouse, wharf area and Fortress entrance area to get a view of the stately site.

The next day brought a trip to Nyanza to spend a few hours at the Big Spruce Brewery. I had no idea what to order as I am no expert at craft beer but when I saw someone in line ahead of me order a pink beer, I knew I had to inquire. The Silver Tart, as it's called, is a sour raspberry wheat beer and, as I soon found out, it's delicious.  The skies opened up as we sat under our giant umbrella near the edge of the forest.  But we didn't care while we sipped our refreshing beverages and listened to a talented young man sing and play guitar for us and about a dozen other patrons. On the way home that evening, we stopped in Baddeck to have a look at the boats and yachts in the harbour.  A very large super-yacht took up much of the wharf and had a familiar name on it; Casino Royale.  A google search revealed that it was a charter/rental and it could be mine for $225,000 a week.

The very next day, I had a day trip planned with a friend of mine to go swimming and taking pictures in the western part of the island near Inverness, Margaree and Cheticamp. That morning, the weather forecast didn't look too promising with some rain and possible thunderstorms predicted for that region of the island.  We went anyway.  When we arrived at Margaree Harbour, the clouds looked to be over Cheticamp and slowly heading toward Inverness.  So we headed to Inverness first.  My logic was to beat the rain and get a swim in at Inverness Beach and than by the time we headed back toward Cheticamp, the rain would be headed toward Margaree.  my plan almost worked.

Upon arrival to Inverness Beach, I changed into my swimsuit and raced toward the surf to get a swim in before the sky opened.  I swam for close to an hour before the rain drops started.  I kept swimming.  The raindrops got bigger and bigger and heavier and than, all of a sudden, we were in a monsoon.  I didn't even bother racing back to the car.  There was no chance that I or my belongings would be dry again that day. The good thing was the rain kept going the other way and by the time we made it to Cheticamp, the sun was coming out and the clouds were moving west.  After some picture-taking at Grande Falaise (where I think I finally mastered spider webs), we stopped at Wabo's Pizza for slices and deep-fried cheesecake.  We ate outside since the weather had turned nice again but I didn't realize I didn't have napkins until I was half-way through the messy cheesecake.  My friend had quite the laugh watching me quite literally get the gooey stuff all over me and my face!

That evening turned out much better than expected after the adverse weather of earlier in the day; It turned warm, calm and there was a most spectacular sunset.  The earlier part of the evening was spent with our feet in the water at Chimney Corner, taking pictures of the clear water and rippling sand.  When the flies became too much, we drove ten minutes to Margaree Harbour Beach and took some pictures of the setting sun.

An impromptu trip around the Cabot Trail happened the day before my sister was due to head back out west.  It was a quick trip around but a good one.  We got to take in some views, went on a little hike and I now know where the trail-head to Pollett's Cove is.

This summer was a bit different for me because I stayed closer to home more often than I usually do and that wasn't a bad thing.  Watching a meteor shower at Dominion Beach, following newly-hatched, endangered piping plovers while they got big and learned to fly, enjoying a beer in the evenings on my back step while listening to relaxing music (mostly from the CD I recently bought and love - Buena Vista Social Club - a band from Cuba etc), fireworks, Bayside ice creams, sunsets at the lighthouse....I didn't travel far this summer but it was, no doubt, an eventful one.  I can't say I was bored for a second. 

I always try to make it to Baddeck a few times every summer and this year, I planned my main trip to the pretty village around Festiville Baddeck which is a festival held the first Monday of July and August.  I left home early to get there in time to take a little side trip to Kidston Island where I swam and hiked for a few hours before heading to the main street to check out the vendors and enjoy some live music.  Before heading home, I sat and enjoyed a sample serving of Spruce Beer.

Just as quickly as the hot weather arrived, it turned cold again but only for a few days before the heat made it's return.  Ipersonally loved the hot weather we had.  I spent more time swimming this year than any other because the water was absolutely beautiful.  I haven't been doing as much camping lately as I usually do so when the weather turned hot again, I jumped on the opportunity to book a campsite at my home-away-from-home at Broad Cove Campground near Ingonish.  I've been booking lot 87 for many years (almost 20 now that I think about it!) but this year was the first year it wasn't available.  Someone else had it booked during the dates I wanted.  I booked lot 91 instead.  It looked nice in the pictures online and when I arrived, I was quite pleased with the site.  It was very large, it had enough trees to hang my clothesline and solar lights and there was plenty of grass to put my tent on. I booked two nights and other than a little sprinkle of rain the first day, the weather was fantastic.  I didn't do a whole lot of hiking or swimming; my intention for that trip was to relax.  I spent a lot of time walking the beaches, watching the sunset at The Point with my evening coffee from the Bean Barn, reading under candlelight and enjoying a beer in the evenings while watching the night sky. 

When the muggy, hot days turned cold, I had a hard time adjusting as I must have been used to the extreme heat.  Dominion Beach turned bad too for a few days.  Lots of seaweed, crabs and even lobsters crawling around in shallow water.  I thought swimming was done for the season but than, just like that, it cleared up and the beach was back better than it was before.  The beach was quite crowded right up to the day before the local newspaper ran an article about how a tagged Great White Shark named "Hilton" was spotted not far off the coast of Point Michaud.  The very next day, the beach was deserted. This did not deter me from continuing to swim very day until the third week of September.  

Every Labour Day weekend I head to Margaree.  Actually, it's Cap Lemoine but I call it Margaree because it's close enough.  This Labour Day weekend was no exception.  I packed up my car and headed to the Western part of the island hoping for sunshine and warm enough weather to get a late season swim in. That first day was perfect.  Warm air plus warm water at Chimney Corner and Inverness Beach meant I got a lot of swimming in that afternoon.  That evening, I enjoyed supper at a new-to-me restaurant in Cheticamp.  The restaurant has been there for years but because the word "seafood" is in the title, I never gave it a second look.  Seafood Stop is situated right before you enter the main part of the town.  It's fairly small but nice inside.  I was anxious to see the menu because I wasn't sure what I would order if only seafood dishes were available.  Fortunately, there were many non-fish options available.  I played it healthy and ordered a Caesar salad and garlic bread.  It was delicious.  I had no idea what I was missing all these years .  The only complaint I had was it was too cold because the air-conditioning was on high despite it being cool outside that evening.

The next day, supper was had at a more familiar place; Wabo's.  I had my usual, the Lasagna.  However, I skipped the deep-fried cheesecake.  It's something I try to only have once a year at most.  I was awake very early the next morning to drive my friend to catch a bus to Halifax.  An early-morning stop at the Dancing Goat was part of that early-morning journey.  I stopped in Baddeck for breakfast and a short walk around the pretty little town before heading home. 

I camped during the first week of September (and froze) and again the second week (which was surprisingly warmer).  I camped in Baddeck with a friend in her pop-up trailer.  We chose Baddeck Cabot Trail Campground.  I stayed there at as child when it was the KOA.  I don't remember what it was like back than but it's pretty nice now!  Heated pool, a cozy lodge and grassy lots.  I enjoyed my first campfire of the season that night and I was also was spooked by a large animal as I walked in a wooded area after dark.  Not sure what it was.  Left the area quickly before I could find out. 

The very next week, I got another night of camping in.  I love sleeping in a tent and try to do so as much as possible when the weather allows.  This time, I roughed it in a remote area of Richmond County instead of staying on a campground.  My dad and I had been planning a trip like this for a while and finally got it together this year and set up camp at the bottom of Ferguson Road near Framboise.  It was a the perfect spot right on the beach surrounded by rugged coastline and forest.  After a couple of beer around a campfire, I stared at the night sky filled with stars and fell asleep to the sound of waves pounding ashore and coyotes howling nearby.  Despite it being late in the season, the temperature was just right; not too hot nor too cold.  A long hike along Ferguson Beach and a trip to St. Peter's for coffee and sightseeing completed the trip.

Summer is now gone for another year.  Swimming and camping season may be ending but hiking, biking and kayaking season is in full force!

A Spring Hike, A Foggy Beach and Lots of Old Houses

Spring may have started a while ago but Spring-like weather only came about fairly recently here on Cape Breton Island.  That means hiking season is just around the corner but it officially started for me with a hike in Framboise on a foggy but warmish April spring day.

I awoke that morning to the sun splitting rocks and abnormally high temps for the time of year.  The drive to the coast was nice until I actually reached the coast where everything was engulfed in a thick fog and the temperatures were about ten degrees cooler than they were inland.

Ferguson Road was my first stop.  I drove all the way down to the beach and than back to the half-way point in the road to take a rest and a little stroll along an old wood road that ran along a long-ago abandoned property.  It was so quiet there and all I could hear was the soft breeze in the trees and a few birds chirping.  Much quieter than the racket I'm exposed to at home where all I can hear 24-7 is the loud hum of a nearby power generating station.

I walked a piece up the gravel road towards the main highway taking in more of those nature sounds and felt at ease and more relaxed than I had in weeks.  It was like all my stress was lifted off my shoulders and tossed into the brush where I hoped it would stay.  Alas, upon returning to the real world, those stresses always come back but they are easier to manage after a long spell in the woods.

After my little leg-stretcher on Ferguson Road, I drove back to the main road and down a piece until I found a partially grown-in driveway to park in while I hiked in an area I had heard about.  I followed an old beaten path through a wooded area that led toward the ocean.  I expected to see some nice scenery but what I didn't expect to see was a few old houses. I love walking around the old, abandoned houses in that area.  I like to imagine the families that once lived in them and what their lives were like.  However, upon closer inspection of this particular house, I realized it was  still in use and was in the process of being renovated.  The American flag in the window gave away some clues to the ownership. And what a spot it is to renovate an old country farmhouse and turn it into a summer retreat that no one even knows is there...unless they venture on foot into the woods as I did.

Fog was rolling in as I broke through the trees and approached the coastal area.  I could faintly make out the rocky coastline and hear the waves crashing onshore but everything beyond that was a haze. I spotted an interesting-looking grassy area atop a giant rock and climbed to the top of it to get a better view of the ocean.  A couple of seals bobbed in the waves but I couldn't see very far. I took a seat in an area that was sheltered against the cool wind and ate my usual lunch - an egg sandwich, a muffin, an energy bar and some tea -  and walked some more along that rugged coastline until I came to a grassy area with a semi-beaten trail on it.  I followed it to see where it went....and, due to my curious nature, kept following it until I came to another clearing with some more old-weather-beaten houses.  These ones were most certainly abandoned and had been for some time.  A light mist was beginning to fill the air and I thought I could hear the faint yelp of coyotes in the distance as I headed back to my car but my day wasn't over yet.

A short drive took me to my next stop on Frank MacDonald Road near Grand River. It was getting later in the evening and the crickets were starting their nightly chorale.  I parked my car next to the gently flowing river and crossed the deserted road to walk up an old wood road towards the tree line.  I heard there used to be some old houses on that road and I wanted to check them out.  To my disappointed, the old houses that were said to be there were replaced by new ones.  I'm sure these homeowners weren't a bit disappointed when they laid eyes on that beautiful piece of land and decided to make their home there. I didn't linger too long on that land that was obviously private property and heard some more coyotes off in the distance as I walked back to the car.

Just up the road a bit was another old wood road...or at least the faded remnants of an old wood road.  There was a clearly defined ditch to the sides and a power line but the old road itself was all grown in.  I knew there had to be something in there - a house or business - as the power line led somewhere or at least it did at one time.  Alas, I hiked into that brush until it started to get dark and out of fear I might get lost or approached by a prowling coyote, I turned back towards the car having not found whatever it was the power line hooked up to.

There was still enough light left in the sky when I drove passed an old house on the side of the road that looked like it had been abandoned for many decades and was about to fall in on itself.  Of, course, as you probably already guessed, I got out of the car to explore a little.  The property was quite large as was the house and when I closed my eyes, I could almost hear the children who once played in the yard and the adults having tea on the back patio.  I imagined what it must have been like to live in such a remote place so many years ago, how hard the winters must have been but how peaceful it must have been in the warmer months surrounded by all that nature.  I could tell that it was once a very stately property and it pained me to think that somewhere out there there are grandchildren and great-grandchildren of the people who once lived here who have no idea their ancestors once stately home still stands with some of the furniture inside still intact.  And there I was admiring it and thinking how they would love to know about the place.  Who knows what other treasures are held in the confines of the walls, old dressers and floorboards.  

It was almost dark when I returned to the car for the last time that day and started back the way I came - over the dark, lonely country road through Framboise, Forchu, Gabarus and Mira - and met an abnormal amount of traffic when I hit Marion Bridge.  I soon realized that these carloads of people were headed back to their country homes after spending the evening Chasing the Ace in Sydney.  For anyone who is not familiar with the Chase the Ace Phenomenon that has hit Cape Breton, it's a charity/lottery event with a huge jackpot that draws tens of thousands of millionaire wannabes from all over the Maritimes.  It's not for me.  I'd rather spend a day in the woods or along the seashore any day over waiting in line for two hours to play a lottery.  To each their own I suppose but for the last few Saturdays, it meant more room on the beaches and trails for me!