An Amazing Day at Point Michaud Beach

I love Point Michaud.  After all, it's a long, sandy beach in a remote area of beautiful Cape Breton Island and there's nothing I love more than a long, sandy beach all to myself. But, there is one thing I don't love about this beach in particular; the water is always cold!

When I go to Point Michaud Beach, it's to sit in the sand and watch the waves or to walk the many kilometers along its shore. The couple of times I tried to swim there, it was just way too cold.  Sure, many people do swim there but they are local people who are used to the cooler waters of the south coast and many times, they are wearing wetsuits. I'm used to the warm waters of Dominion Beach and Inverness Beach.  Point Michaud Beach is more suited to the surfers who come from all over to surf the ideal conditions the beach is known for.  Sometimes the waves get quite big. I don't surf.  I also don't even put my toes in the water at Point Michaud Beach.  

Than, one day I made a last-minute visit to Point Michaud.  I was camping down the road with my father and when we parted ways to head home, I stopped at the beach to see an old friend who happened to be there that day.  It was a warm sunny day, but I didn't have high hopes of going for a swim.  

"Did you bring your swimsuit?  The water is lovely!" was the greeting I received as my old friend embraced me in the parking lot.   I must have looked at her like she was crazy because she responded with "no really, the water is the warmest It's ever been!".  I had my doubts but I changed into my swimsuit anyway.  I sat on the beach in the warm sun, delaying my entry into what I expected to be chilly water.  When my friend's young granddaughter ran to the water's edge and walked nonchalantly into the water like it was nothing, I began to think that maybe my friend wasn't exaggerating about the water temperature after all.  

I walked to the water's edge and watched the little girls jump and dive and splash around. The water was so clear.  I'd never seen it so clear before!  I slipped my sandals off and dipped my toes in the water.  It felt very warm but I knew that wasn't enough to gauge how warm it would be further out.  I slowly entered the water inch by inch.  It didn't get colder.  Eventually I was up to my waist in warm water that is usually the norm for the other side of the island.  I ducked and surprisingly, it wasn't a shock because, lo and behold, the water was so warm!  

I stayed in that water for over an hour riding the gentle waves, watching the surfers riding waves on their boards nearby.  Even in water over my head, it was clear, I could see straight to the bottom.  It was almost like swimming in the Caribbean Sea.  I'd never seen such beautiful conditions at Point Michaud before and boy, was I glad I took my swimsuit along on that camping trip! When the clouds rolled in and the air cooled, the water stayed warm but I knew it was time to get out of the water and dry off before the rain came. 

The rain did come just as I was driving along the coast headed for home.  I made a little detour to St. Peters to grab a coffee for the road and made that long, scenic drive down Route 4 along the Bras d'Or Lakes.  I'll never assume that the water is always cold at Point Michaud again because I hope to have a repeat of that amazing day next summer and every summer after!

A Hike Down The Long Road to Caplin Cove

Another Great Cape Breton Hiking Adventure Before the Summer Heat

But First, the Long Drive on that Familiar (and Bumpy) Road - The Fleur de Lis Trail

I know that road in rural Cape Breton like the back of my hand.  Probably not as well as my father knows it as he's been driving it weekly for the past 60-some years, but I know it quite well. On this particular day, driving along the Fleur de Lis Trail from the exit from the Sydney Bypass (or 125 as it's often referred to), through Marion Bridge, Gabarus, Forchu, Framboise St, Esprit, L'Archeveque and Grand River felt like deja vu because I had just done the exact same drive less than a week earlier.

Again, I met my friend in the parking lot of the big church in Grand River and we drove together to Caplin Cove. Well, not exactly to Caplin Cove but to the road leading to Caplin Cove. The road is not well-traveled which means it's in very poor condition. We drove a little bit and when the conditions deteriorated, we parked and hiked the rest of the way. But that was the intention of the day anyway; to go hiking!

A Long, Difficult Trek to the Coast

I hoped we would be able to drive in at least a kilometer or two before the road got bad.  I knew the road was about 7 kilometers in so that would make the trek 14 kilometers total and I wasn't sure if we would have the time.  Alas, we had no choice.  My car wasn't going any further on that road! 

We coated ourselves in sunscreen and bug spray and grabbed our gear and a few beers to have on the beach when we arrived and headed off on that old wood road into the unknown. 

The walking was good for a while and then I saw it in the distance; a huge puddle.  Actually, it was more like a lake right in the middle of the road. I just knew by the size of it and how it went clear across the entire road that we have to do some bushwhacking to get around this one. We carefully made our way through the bushes ad swarms of flies and emerged with wet feet, bug bites and branches stuck in our hair. I hoped this would be the only such obstacle we would face.  Boy, was I wrong. 

Long story short, there ended up being 18 more large puddles like this, some even worse.  After several hours of navigating around them, we emerged at the coast soaking wet, full of mud and covered in bug bites.  

 

Was it worth it?

Despite being tired and battered, I instantly knew we made the right decision to do this hike when I laid eyes on the beautiful scene before me.  I forgot how beautiful this rugged, remote coast was and just wanted to see what was beyond every bend! But first, we needed to rest.  I pulled two Alexander Keith's out of my backpack and we sat barefoot in the soft sand and enjoyed some cold beer.

When we felt sufficiently rested, we started hiking to the left side of the beach.  One bald eagle.  Two bald eagles. Three...four...five...six bald eagles!  Seems that we happened onto a bald eagle colony.  There were old ones and young ones, perhaps generations of a family not used to seeing people in their peaceful, remote hideaway. 

The wind was strong enough that I could feel a cool mist coming off the ocean as I trekked around bend after bend, curious to know what was behind each one.  We found a little beach at a point where it didn't look like a good idea to go any further and ate our lunch. Because it took so long to hike to Caplin Cove and we still had a long hike back, we had to cut our visit short to be out before dark. I took one last look at that incredible vista knowing that it could be another ten years before I lay eyes on it again. 

The Long Walk Back to Civilization 

If getting around the large puddles wasn't hard enough, the mosquitoes were out in full force as w started the journey back to the car. I always said it seems like the hike back is always quicker than the hike there. Fortunately, this seemed to be the case on this hike!  Or perhaps we just learned how to better navigate those puddles. 

In what seemed like no time, we were back in one piece despite being sunburned, bitten and exhausted. I dropped my friend off at her car and, following tradition, took the long way home with a detour through St. Peters where I grabbed a Timmie's coffee for the road. Now, onto swimming season.  Hiking will take a backseat until late September but I'm looking forward to two months of sand, sun and vitamin sea!

A Family Outing to The Untouched, Underrated part of Cape Breton Island

The south coast of Cape Breton Island is underrated and under-traveled and frankly, I kind of like it that way. 

However, I feel the need to share my south coast adventures because if you haven't explored the area, you're missing out!  I understand the draw to the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and the west coast; mountains, sandy beaches, touristy attractions, top restaurants and breweries.  But if you're looking for a place on Cape Breton, Nova Scotia where you can really get away and escape the crowds and be one with untouched nature where you can walk for miles along rugged Atlantic coastline and not see one single person (unless you count seals and deer as people), this is the place to be.

The road that passes along the coast from Gabarus to Grand River, also known as the Fleur de Lis Trail, might look like a simple country road but the adventurous souls who've ventured off this main road and onto the gravel roads that lead to places like Morrison Beach, Ferguson Beach, Blue Lake and Crooked Lake know that there's more to this area than just trees, some lakes and a few old houses.  

Just to name a few of the coastal treasures in the area...in Sterling, you'll find pioneer cemeteries, abandoned Victorian-style farmhouses, fishing holes and an old abandoned mine that's said to be haunted.  Today, the mine features old mine workings spray painted with some colourful artwork. 

My father and I travel to the area frequently to do some hiking and fishing. My most recent trip to Framboise (the name my family uses to refer to this entire area although it includes several communities) was extra special as my sister, who hadn't been home in two years, joined  us.  

When Dad and I go to Framboise, we have a specific destination in mind. A lake to fish or a beach to comb or a trail to hike. On this day, we stopped everywhere because my sister isn't that familiar with the area since she's been living away for so long.  We stopped in Gabarus to take pictures of the pretty fishing village and visit the friendly goats that live on the hill.   We drove into the Sterling to see the spot where our old cabin used to be and watch for deer and other wildlife that's frequently spotted in this area.  We drove to Ferguson Beach and spent some time by the ocean as seals bobbed offshore.  At Grand River, we stopped to look for the bald eagles that are always perched on the poles along the bridge.

 As per tradition, we made a trip to St. Peter's for a coffee and something to eat, stopping to admire some of the old farmhouses along the way.  In St. Peter's, we grabbed some takeout at Jigg's and ate it on a picnic table near the canal as we watched the boats coming and going.   Instead of going home via route 4 as we had originally planned, we did something we don't normally do on any road trip;  We backtracked the same way we came.  The lack of traffic and the possibility of spotting wildlife later in the day motivated us to go back through Framboise.  Although we didn't see anything, the long, country road through forest and scenic coastal villages made for a relaxing drive.  

 

If you're interested in exploring this section of the Fleur de Lis Trail and what I call the Framboise area, depart Sydney via route 327 (exit 7 from the Hwy 125) towards Marion Bridge. Because it's a coastal area, the weather can be vastly different from other areas of the island.  Fog, cool winds and drizzle are common here even though it might be sunny not so far away! 

• Dress in layers and be prepared for wet conditions.
• The terrain is rugged and remote so make sure to wear sturdy, comfortable hiking shoes or boots. 
• Be aware that much of this area does not have cell phone service.
• When hiking in the woods, stay close to the trail because it's very easy to get lost.
• Be careful when swimming in the ocean in this area as there are large waves and rip currents.
  

 

 

The Underrated South Coast of Cape Breton Island

In my opinion the south coast of Cape Breton is underrated and mostly unexplored.  This is why I'm growing to love this part of the island.  I used to love being around all the tourist crowds of The Highlands when I was younger but now that I am older, I prefer a deserted beach in the middle of nowhere and there are many on the south coast!  Whether it be Morrison Beach, Crooked Lake Beach, St. Esprit, Blue Lake or Ferguson Beach I choose, I'm always the only person there and I spend hours walking these remote stretches with only the sound of the ocean, the smell of the fresh sea air and the feel of sand beneath my feet.

The Black Black is just one of the Many Animals that can be Spotted on Cape Breton Island

Wildlife is plentiful on Cape Breton Island.  Deer, moose, coyote, fox, rabbit, bobcat, lynx and bear are commonly spotted around the island especially in the more remote areas of the south coast and the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

I spotted this young black bear along the road going through the Cape Breton Highlands National Park near Cheticamp.