Jersey Cove, Black Brook, Inverness and Everywhere in Between

It's always nice to have friends in various places around Cape Breton.  One such good friend has a seasonal home in Jersey Cove at the Joyful Journeys RV Park. I pass through there often on the way to Ingonish so I always make a point to stop in and pay a visit or, as was the case early in the summer, stop by, head out on an adventure in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and stay the night in Jersey Cove. 

I left early that morning with the beach on my mind.  The earlier the better.  It's about an hour's drive to Jersey Cove and another hour to Black Brook Beach where I intended to spend the day swimming and soaking up the sun.  And what weather we had this summer!!  With soaring temperatures, more sunny days than not and clear night skies, you'll hear no complaints from me! 

 

Anyway, I arrived in Jersey Cove around 9:30.  My friend wasn't quite ready but once she was, we took a short walk around the grounds and down to the water before heading toward the Highlands and onto one of our favourite beaches. 

Two years ago, we went to this beach and it was beautiful but we faced disappointment last year when we went.  The beach was rough and there was hardly any sand.  It was so bad, we had to go swimming elsewhere.  I hoped and hoped we wouldn't face the same this year and fortunately, the beach was back to it's usual glory!  

 

Long story short, the water was crystal clear and warm and the beach was all soft sand.  As per usual, I didn't want to get out of the water but when hunger struck and the sun started to dip in the sky, I reluctantly found a spot on the sand to dry off.   

We hung around Ingonish for a while just enjoying the sights, walking North Bay Beach and eating French fries by the shore. It was almost dark when we headed back and we were too tired to have the bonfire and smores we planned to have that evening before bed.  

The next morning brought with it another adventure to another one of my favourite beaches on the other side of the island and this was going to be an all-day and evening event because I never drive all the way to Inverness to leave before sunset.  Sunset is the main event on the West Coast of Cape Breton Island. 

Although we arrived quite early, there were no parking spots close to the beach so we had to walk quite a ways with all our gear. When we finally reached the sand, we found a perfect spot to spend the day.  I dropped my things and stripped down to my swimsuit and went in the water right away.  I'm not one to just lie in the sun for hours and hours; being in the water is my main purpose to be at any beach, especially when its the one with the warmest and clearest waters on the island!

I spent many hours floating in those clear, warm waters that day.  I also walked the length of the beach and searched for beach glass with my friend who was more keen on lying in the sun than swimming for hours on end.  About an hour before sunset, we left the beach to get something to eat in Cheticamp and pay a quick visit to my sister who was visiting from Alberta and staying in a campervan at the local campground. We got back to the beach just in time for the evening show.

I, once again, stripped down to my bathing suit and entered those clear, warm waters.  The air was cooler by that time but the water was still warm.  The sun was quickly falling toward the horizon when I took my spot in the glowing strip that crossed from the horizon to the shore.  There's just something about being in the dark, vast ocean at sunset.  I can't think of anything more relaxing.  I floated in the calm water until that glowing red ball was no more and sky turned dark.  In the distance, I could hear the sound of bagpipes coming from somewhere above the beach. 

We made the long drive back to Jersey Cove via the Margaree Valley and Englishtown Ferry.  I dropped my friend off at her trailer and made the journey home alone.  I'm ok with that.  Late night drives with my music blaring and the sunroof open to the moon and stars above and the windows down to let in the warm night air are my kinda thing!

Summer trips to Inverness...These are the Days I Long for all Winter!

It's no secret that I love the ocean and I'm sure it's no secret that I also love swimming in the ocean.  The hot temperatures came early this year.  June was warm enough to go swimming but the jellyfish made an appearance around that time too and I don't swim when they're!  Fortunately, they had a short season and were gone just in time for me to start swimming a little earlier than normal.  Mid-July is usually when I find the water warm enough to enjoy longer dips but the water warmed to a comfortable temperature earlier this year. 

I only live about ten minutes away from Dominion Beach so that's where I spend most of my time but whenever I get the chance, I head to Inverness Beach.  It's a 2.5-hour drive to this long, sandy stretch on the northwestern coast of Cape Breton but the drive is worth it for the warm, clear water and spectacular sunsets. 

I made more trips to Inverness than usual this summer but still not as many as I would have liked.  That being said, I made the most of each trip by leaving early in the morning and spending as much time as possible enjoying the two things that draw me to this beach; the swimming and the sunsets. 

It's always my first stop of the day and my last.  After a late morning swim and long walk in the surf, I head further north to check out some of my other favorite beaches at Chimney Corner and Whale Cove.  Sometimes I stop at Plage St. Pierre on Cheticamp Island, usually I grab a coffee in Cheticamp and go for a scenic drive into the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and along the Cheticamp Back Road.  

Before heading back to Inverness, I grab something to eat at La Gabriel or Wabo's Pizza and eat on the boardwalk while watching the boats coming and going.  I always make sure to be back at Inverness Beach at least an hour before sunset.  I set up camp in the sand once again and head into those warm, clear waters to enjoy a final evening swim.  

The true magic happens just as the sun dips almost to the horizon and the last glowing rays sparkle in a strip leading from the surf to the great depths as far as the eye can see. As long as I stay in that glowing strip, I can still see straight to the bottom.  Sometimes a boat or lone paddleboarder will appear in the distance making that sparkling strip of light leading to the setting sun even more spectacular.  One evening, there was even a lone bagpiper playing high above the beach.

The air cools quickly and by the time the sun is gone and the sky darkens, I know it's time to get out of the water.  This is the hardest part of the day.  The water is warmer than the air at this time and I never know if it will be the last Inverness sunset swim of the season.  Reluctantly, I head to shore, dry off, change into dry clothes and make the long journey home.  

It's fall now but thoughts of days like this are what keep me going through the long, cold winter.  Let the countdown to summer begin!  

Always Anticipating those Lazy Beach Days of Summer on Cape Breton Island

All through the long Cape Breton winter, I dream about summer and the days ahead when I'll be able to return to the sandy beaches that line the coastline of my little island paradise.  The countdown usually starts after Christmas when a few months have already passed since my last ocean dip and the realization that a long winter lies ahead sinks in.  6 more months.  5 more months.  4 more months....and so on.  I occupy myself with snowshoeing and indoor projects that are best done on days when it's too wintery outside to do anything else.  

Finally, the day arrives.  That day when the temperatures climb above 20 degrees, the water is at least a comfortable 16 or 17 degrees and the jellyfish have gone to wherever it is they go after they pollute the shorelines for a few weeks in June and July. For the next several months, every single day that I'm not working and it's nice enough to go to the beach, I'm there.  It could be Dominion, Inverness, Black Brook, Marble Mountain, Ingonish, North Bay...Where there's sand and warm, clear water, that's where you'll find me!

Because Dominion Beach is so close to my house, it's the beach I head to most often.  I bypass the crowds of families and college kids and head for the section further down the sandbar and set up for the afternoon.  Sometimes someone will join me.  Sometimes I relax with a book and my beachy playlist on my mini portable Bluetooth speaker between swims.  

If the water is calm and clear, I take out my mask and snorkel or I lie on my back and watch the clouds drift by overhead as the gentle swells lull me into a trance. 

It all goes by too quick.  Come late August, the lifeguards leave, the air cools and the crowds dwindle.  But the water stays warm until late September and sometimes into October.  I keep going to the beach as long as I can.  Sometimes, I'm the only person there.  

Sometimes, there are people walking on the beach looking at me like I'm crazy to be swimming so late in the season.  Often times, the water is warmer than the air and the people walking onshore in their hoodies and long pants assume the water must be as cold as the air.  Sometimes I don't want to get out of the water because the air is so cold but I tough it out for as long as I can.  The season is short and I want to get as much out of it as possible.

The water usually turns cold quite suddenly.  I'll head to the beach one day late in the season and walk into the water to discover that it's far too cold to stay in for more than a few minutes.  I'll tolerate this a few times before the combination of cold air and cold water is just too much and I exit the water one last time.  And the countdown begins once again.

A Final Sunset Swim at Inverness Beach

Summer is usually a beautiful time of year in Cape Breton, weather-wise. However, the summer of 2023 was not so great in terms of the number of nice days there were.  I recently heard that it was the wettest summer on record.  I believe that; I'm sure it rained at least every second day and at times, it rained for days at a time! 

The swimming season was off to a late start and it wasn't until much later in the season that I finally made it to my favorite beach at Inverness and when I did make it there, I made sure to go back as much as possible.  I went three weekends in a row and each time I went, I thought it would be my last. The weekend at the end of the first week of September was my last beach trip to Inverness and it was perfect in every way I can think of. 

 You may be wondering why I love the beach in Inverness, Cape Breton so much.  Well, there are many reasons besides the fact that it's my favorite beach. It's sandy, It's long, the water is always quite warm, the scenery is nice and the sunsets are incredible. That's why when I plan a trip to Inverness Beach, I plan it strategically.  Everything has to be just right.  The temperatures need to be in the mid-20s at least, low winds to the south and low probability of rain or other adverse weather conditions. I always leave very early in the morning but the main goal is to always be on the beach right before sunset no matter what. That's the highlight of any day spent in this magical place. 

On that final day I had on Inverness Beach, it was calling for great weather and ideal conditions so I set out early and drove straight to that little town on the west side of Cape Breton Island.  It seemed strange that there were hardly any cars there when I arrived as I usually have to search for a while before finding a place to park.  I drove right to the edge where I could look out over the water and was even more surprised by what I saw there; Very high tide, rough water and lots of wind.  I was crushed.  I drove all that distance to be faced with the worse kind of conditions for swimming. 

I knew sometimes conditions changed later in the day at Inverness and because low tide would be that evening, I thought I had a chance at enjoying a sunset swim.  I left Inverness and drove to Cheticamp, had a coffee, sat on the boardwalk for a while and took a scenic drive along the back road at the foot of the mountains before driving back to the Margaree area and stopping at Chimney Corner. The water was nice and calm there and there weren't many people around.  At around 5:30, I drove back to Inverness. I was right!  The conditions had changed and by that time, it was a perfect evening for a swim in those warm, clear waters. 

 I set up my towel in my favorite spot and headed right for the water.  On the way, I met up with a friend who had the same idea. It's always nice to have company when swimming in the evening especially later in the summer when the rip currents seem to be prevalent. I tried not to think about the two tagged Great White sharks that were lurking just offshore from Inverness Beach.  One in 16 million chance, right? Nothing will keep me out of the water, not even the sharks!

There was a nice rolling wave that evening and the water was as it always is; clear right to the bottom.  I stayed in for about an hour, got out for a bit before sunset and than just before the sun went down, I entered the water one last time. I swam right into that spot where the last rays of the lowering sun come down over the water and swam into that beautiful sunset.  Nothing is more relaxing.  I could have stayed there forever just floating in that red strip of light on the clear, blue sea. 

I didn't want to leave because I knew it would likely be my last trip there for the year.  But I had a long drive home and I would be alone on that long highway through the Margaree Valley. It's days like this that I think about when the snow is falling and the days are cold.  Thoughts of sunsets, clear ocean water and warm breezes keep me going during those long winter days.

An Amazing Day at Point Michaud Beach

I love Point Michaud.  After all, it's a long, sandy beach in a remote area of beautiful Cape Breton Island and there's nothing I love more than a long, sandy beach all to myself. But, there is one thing I don't love about this beach in particular; the water is always cold!

When I go to Point Michaud Beach, it's to sit in the sand and watch the waves or to walk the many kilometers along its shore. The couple of times I tried to swim there, it was just way too cold.  Sure, many people do swim there but they are local people who are used to the cooler waters of the south coast and many times, they are wearing wetsuits. I'm used to the warm waters of Dominion Beach and Inverness Beach.  Point Michaud Beach is more suited to the surfers who come from all over to surf the ideal conditions the beach is known for.  Sometimes the waves get quite big. I don't surf.  I also don't even put my toes in the water at Point Michaud Beach.  

Than, one day I made a last-minute visit to Point Michaud.  I was camping down the road with my father and when we parted ways to head home, I stopped at the beach to see an old friend who happened to be there that day.  It was a warm sunny day, but I didn't have high hopes of going for a swim.  

"Did you bring your swimsuit?  The water is lovely!" was the greeting I received as my old friend embraced me in the parking lot.   I must have looked at her like she was crazy because she responded with "no really, the water is the warmest It's ever been!".  I had my doubts but I changed into my swimsuit anyway.  I sat on the beach in the warm sun, delaying my entry into what I expected to be chilly water.  When my friend's young granddaughter ran to the water's edge and walked nonchalantly into the water like it was nothing, I began to think that maybe my friend wasn't exaggerating about the water temperature after all.  

I walked to the water's edge and watched the little girls jump and dive and splash around. The water was so clear.  I'd never seen it so clear before!  I slipped my sandals off and dipped my toes in the water.  It felt very warm but I knew that wasn't enough to gauge how warm it would be further out.  I slowly entered the water inch by inch.  It didn't get colder.  Eventually I was up to my waist in warm water that is usually the norm for the other side of the island.  I ducked and surprisingly, it wasn't a shock because, lo and behold, the water was so warm!  

I stayed in that water for over an hour riding the gentle waves, watching the surfers riding waves on their boards nearby.  Even in water over my head, it was clear, I could see straight to the bottom.  It was almost like swimming in the Caribbean Sea.  I'd never seen such beautiful conditions at Point Michaud before and boy, was I glad I took my swimsuit along on that camping trip! When the clouds rolled in and the air cooled, the water stayed warm but I knew it was time to get out of the water and dry off before the rain came. 

The rain did come just as I was driving along the coast headed for home.  I made a little detour to St. Peters to grab a coffee for the road and made that long, scenic drive down Route 4 along the Bras d'Or Lakes.  I'll never assume that the water is always cold at Point Michaud again because I hope to have a repeat of that amazing day next summer and every summer after!