So Long for Now Beautiful Isle and Onto Whiskey and Lake Monsters

Part 1 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/02/my-journey-to-scotlands-cities.html
Part 2 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/next-stop-edinburgh-scotland.html
Part 3 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/72-hours-in-city-of-edinburgh.html
Part 4 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/a-real-introduction-to-history-and.html
Part 5 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/the-haunted-graveyards-and-underground.html
Part 6 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/a-tour-of-edinburgh-castle-and-solo.html
Part 7 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/farewell-edinburgh-hello-highlands.html
Part 8 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2016/11/making-my-way-to-lovely-isle-of-skye.html

Part 9 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/05/exploring-towns-brochs-and-castles-of.html

I awoke to the sun shining on that last morning on the Isle of Skye.  Finally, I was able to get a clear glimpse of that fantastic view from atop that hill.  After yet another hearty breakfast, I was once again back on the bus and off the tackle more adventures around the Highlands of Scotland.  On this day, we took a different route off the Island and drove off the Isle of Skye instead of taking a ferry.  Perhaps due to my ancestral connections to the island, I felt sad at leaving it, almost like leaving home.  It was a rather strange feeling like none I ever experienced when leaving any other places I've visited. 

The view from Hillview

As we drove along those scenic country roads, I heard more stories and folklore about the people who shaped the land.  Stories such as the five sisters of Kintail and fairies stalking the glens and knolls of the countryside.  Our first stop of the day was the Glenlivet Whisky Distillery  Now, I'm not a fan of Whiskey.  In fact, I don't even understand how anyone can sip on it and not gag or throw up like I almost do every time I take a sip.  The option was there for anyone who didn't want to take the tour to stay on the bus or go for a walk around the area.  Since whisky seems to be as much a part of Scottish culture as kilts or bagpipes, I opted to take the tour and, despite my dislike for the drink, it was quite interesting. I may not appreciate the taste of whisky but I can certainly appreciate the amount of time and work that goes into making it!  At the end of the tour, I kept an open mind and even tried the sample that was offered to me.  I took a tiny swig and promptly gagged.  At least I gave it another chance.  Whisky just doesn't agree with me.  I don't know how everyone around me looked like they were thoroughly enjoying and even savoring it while I felt like my throat was on fire after a little drop. 

The whiskey sample I was given at the end of the tour.  I could only drink about half of it before I gagged.

Learning how whiskey is made - just some of the sights in and around the brewery

Our next stop was the pretty little town of Beuly where we stopped long enough time to eat lunch and  wander the village.  I decided to walk the entire length of the main street and see what was available for restaurants and cafes.  There were quite a few places but there seemed to be lineups and large crowds at every one of them.  A couple of tour buses from other companies had arrived in the town at the same time so I decided to keep walking for a bit to allow the crowds to disperse.  When I returned to where most of the eateries are, my eyes locked onto the one place that didn't look too crowded, a little cafe called Corner on the Square.  I ordered a veggie quiche and some other delicious-looking item that I had never heard of before and can't remember the name of.  With food in hand, I found myself in a bit of a dilemma; there were no tables or anywhere to sit inside so I had to find a place to sit outside.  I once again wandered around the town looking for a place to enjoy my meal.  All the benches and picnic tables were taken so I sat on a ledge near a bus stop in front of a town-hallish looking building.  Others soon followed and soon the entire ledge was bustling with tourists eating lunch in the midday sun along a busy street in the pretty little town of Beuly.

I've been told that a trip to Scotland is not complete without a visit to one of the most famous lakes in Scotland and possible the whole world, Loch Ness.  I'm pretty sure everyone reading this is probably aware of what makes the lake so famous and had it not been on the itinerary of this tour, I don't think I would have made a special detour to try and spot a monster that may or may not be still alive if it even ever existed.  That being said, my afternoon on the Loch did end up being a highlight of the trip.  We left Beuly and drove a long stretch of highway until we reached Urquhart Castle.  After a walk through the visitor centre, I ventured off on my own to explore the ruins of the great castle with instructions to meet in an hour to board a cruise on the Loch.

Once again, I found myself wandering around an ancient castle and imagining what it was once like and trying to wrap my head around some of the (both brutal and historical) things must have transpired on that very spot over hundreds of years.  The setting of the ruins is breathtaking with what's left of the once stately castle sitting on the banks of Loch Ness.

With the hour almost up, I made my way to the docks by the lake and climbed aboard the Jacobite Warrior and I took a seat on the upper outside deck. The air was a little cook but this was the best place to get the best view of the lake and surrounding countryside.  The winds had picked up a bit but the sun was shining on the Loch, giving it a crystal clear, glass-like finish until we got out to the middle of the lake where it was quite rough.  I scanned the deep waters looking for signs of the famous sea serpent that is said to live in the loch but Nessie remained elusive.  Some sonar equipment is on display so passengers can watch to see if any large objects are lurking beneath the surface.  I saw nothing there either.  Some say Nessie died and that is why she has not been seen in a while.  The gift shops, amusement park, boat tours and Nessie merchandise give me the impression that perhaps she never existed except to attract foreign tourists.  Yes, I am a skeptic until I see it with my own eyes.  

Loch Ness

Sonar equipment used to detect Nessie...or more likely jsut any big mass on the lake.

We arrived in Fort Augustus in the early evening and before checking into our accommodations for the night, we attended a live show at the Clansman Centre.  Inside the dark theatre, a man dressed in period costume and carrying a Claymore sword walked out on stage.  After a brief history on the use of the Claymore, a medieval (and quite effective) weapon used in battles from the 15th to the 17th century, we were shown the proper way to wear a kilt.  I you are thinking the way I did before seeing this demonstration, you probably think that wearing a kilt is simply the same as wearing any skirt.  Well, not quite...and the Scots prefer that no one use the word skirt to describe a kilt.  The kilt is, after all, an item of clothing usually worn by men and was, in the past, commonly worn on the battlefield. I was able to see exactly how the kilt was worn and what went into the actual putting on of the kilt and let me tell you, it's a lot harder than it looks!

Fort Augustus is another pretty little town with a canal in the centre of the downtown area.  Since it was our last night together as a group (some were headed to the Orkney islands the next day with another guide while the rest of us, me included, were headed back to Glasgow and Edinburgh) we decided to go out to dinner together.  However, that didn't quite work out as planned.  Some members of the group decided to call it a night while the rest of us couldn't decide on one place to eat so we ended up going our separate ways.  The American lady I had been sharing a seat with on the bus suggested pizza for anyone who wanted to join her.  I hadn't tried Scottish pizza yet so I went with her.  We found a place called The Moorings that served pizza and a lot of other delicious-sounding meals.  Since I already had pizza on the brain, I ordered a small vegetarian pizza thinking I would take half of it back to the hotel to have for breakfast the next morning.  Well that didn't happen because it was so good and I was so hungry, I just polished it all off in one sitting.  The large windows in the restaurant allowed for a nice view of the little town and because it wasn't overly crowded with people waiting for tables, we felt comfortable to stay and talk for a while after we ate.

I'm a bit of an introvert so meeting new people is a tad of a chore for me sometimes but occasionally, I meet a person who I instantly like and trust and we become instant friends. I don't often meet someone I can share intimate details of my life with after only a couple of days but I felt very comfortable with this person, like I had known her all my life.  We talked about the recent, sudden loss of our mothers at fairly young ages.  We talked about our careers and hobbies and families and travels.  At one point, she blurted out something that both surprised me.  "I'm proud of you".  Of course, I was initially baffled by this statement.  How can a who was a total stranger 4 days earlier be proud of me?  "I wish I could have done what you are doing at your age...traveling by myself.  I was too scared when I was younger.  Keep doing what you are doing and don't let anyone tell you otherwise".  I was shocked.  That was the first time anyone had ever told me they were proud of me for traveling on my own.  I've gotten lots of comments over the years about my solo travels.  Usually they were along the line of "you know, it's time to get your priorities straight and start thinking about starting a family" or "one of these days, you are going to get raped/kipnapped/killed/beat up/robbed while wandering around these foreign countries".  Hearing those words made me feel more confident in my own feelings towards my lifestyle.  I've never felt that I'm being irresponsible, selfish or careless when it comes to my travels but the people around me have tried to make me feel that way my whole life and at times, I wonder if maybe it is true.  It was a relief to hear someone tell me that I am on the right track in life.  This is why I find it easier making friends on the road despite being more on the introverted side.  I'm more likely to meet more open-minded, adventurous people who are living their lives to the fullest.  People who are doing things, who don't live in the tiny bubbles of their little corner of the world with their house, white picket fence, television and 2.5 kids.  Too bad the people around me can't see that just because I don't live a semi-sheltered and structured life like they do, it doesn't mean there's something wrong with me.  It just means I am following my own path and living my life the way I want to live it. And I'm not hurting anyone by doing so!

We left the restaurant almost two hours after we arrived and set out to find a bank machine to get some cash out.  In our wanderings, we forgot to keep track of where we were and how to get back to the main road and back to our guest house.  We walked around for a long time until we found an area that looked familiar and walked up a road that looked like the road that our guest house was on.  It had been a light drizzle all evening until suddenly, we got caught in a straight and heavy downpour.  We walked and walked in that cold, hard rain for what seemed like forever and realized we were on the wrong road.  We returned to the main road and walked and walked again until we found another road that looked familiar.  Nope.  Wrong road again.  Eventually, we found The Thistle Dubh and walked in the front door drenched from head to toe.  I never laughed so hard in my life.  Who knew getting lost in a rainstorm in a foreign country could be so fun.  I guess any situation can be turned into something positive as long as you are in good company. 

I love getting lost in foreign countries.  Not only does it provide opportunity to see things I would otherwise not see and experience things I would otherwise not experience, it provides me with memorable and entertaining stories to share later.  These memories always being a smile to my face and that night was one of those nights that will surely stay fresh in my mind for a long time to come. 

The Thistle Dubh (a cute little play on words if you know the proper pronunciation of those two gaelic words.  Clue: It ends up sounding very much like "this'll do")

Exploring the Towns, Brochs and Castles of the Isle of Skye

Continued from...
Part 1 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/02/my-journey-to-scotlands-cities.html
Part 2 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/next-stop-edinburgh-scotland.html
Part 3 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/72-hours-in-city-of-edinburgh.html
Part 4 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/a-real-introduction-to-history-and.html
Part 5 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/the-haunted-graveyards-and-underground.html
Part 6 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/a-tour-of-edinburgh-castle-and-solo.html
Part 7 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/farewell-edinburgh-hello-highlands.html
Part 8 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2016/11/making-my-way-to-lovely-isle-of-skye.html



That first morning on the Isle if Skye, I was unable to enjoy the view from Hillview B&B because I awoke to rain, drizzle and fog.  It looked like the sun was trying to come out but the rain won and I never did see the sun that day.  Once again, breakfast was fit for royalty.  Eggs, sausages, fresh veggies and fruit, cereal, porridge, toast.  I certainly don't eat this well during breakfast at home!

With the group together again on the bus, it was decided that since the weather wasn't so great, we would take a scenic drive around the island and stop at a few attractions along the way.  I was pleased with this decision as it has always been my dream to tour the Isle of Skye because it's so renowned for it's rugged beauty and because I have ancestral ties to the island.  From what I gathered from other family members who had done research into the family background, I had connections to the Isle of Skye and to the Clan MacDonald.  When I mentioned this to Andrew (who, like everyone else I met in Scotland, never heard of the name MacEachern) he asked "which clan MacDonald?" because apparently there are quite a few.

As we drove further into more remote areas of the countryside, the road started to narrow until it was down to one lane with passing places every few hundred yards.  Eventually, we turned onto an even narrower road marked with a sign that read "buses not recommended" and all I could think at that point was "now this is my kind of tour!".  It's when you go off-the-beaten track that you see the things that aren't in the guidebooks.  As we drove along that narrow road, traffic became lighter until it is was nearly non-existent and neighborhoods turned into vast fields of sheep and lonely old farmhouses and steep valleys with deep blue-grey streams and rivers running through them.  Soon, the sea and other islands of the Inner Hebrides became visible.  There were some steep embankments along the narrow highway that made the drive a little nerve-wracking but the incredible scenery eventually drew my attention away from the road and to the far-reaching vistas before me.  It's safe to say that sheep outnumber people in those parts.  On that day, I saw a few other tour buses and the odd car but for the most part, those far-reaching remote areas of the Isle of Skye were pretty desolate.

When I was doing research for this trip, the Isle of Skye wasn't a part of my original itinerary until I started coming across information about it.  The pictures I viewed online were what did it for me and I made extra time and put aside extra money to make sure it was a part of my trip.  If you've never been to the Isle of Skye than be forewarned that if you look at the pictures online and expect to see the same thing in person, you will be disappointed; those pictures are very misleading.  The Isle of Skye is far more beautiful in person than any picture you will see anywhere.  And the island has more than looks going for it.  The history is intriguing, brutal and colorful and the people as hearty as they are friendly.  And one would have to be quite hearty to thrive in that wild (and, I'd imagine during the winter months, unforgiving!) landscape.

As we drove along, Andrew told us stories about that history and some of the notable people who were a part of it and I also learned about some random, but nonetheless, interesting facts about Scotland.  I learned about an extraordinary man named Callum MacLeod who, after becoming fed up with the state of traveling on his island of Rassay (a small island which can be seen from the Isle of Skye), single-handedly built a road.  I learned that the United Kindom, including Scotland, uses a mix of the Imperial and Metric systems.  I learned that one of the reasons there are so may sheep in Scotland is because they have no predators there.  I learned about the Highland Midge, a fly that is similar to what I know as mosquitoes here in Canada but much worse.  I learned that a popular travel company filmed a very comical commercial on the Isle of Skye and they cast some of the local sheep.  I had the opportunity to meet some of those sheep.  Well sort of.  

Our first stop (where we actually got out of the bus and ventured into the rain and wind) was at a 2500-year old tower (or Broch as it is commonly known in Scotland).  It was a bit of hike uphill to get to Dun Beag Broch and by that time the winds were hurricane-force mixed with monsoon rain.  Some of the people on my bus were reluctant to even go outside in that weather until Andrew reminding them that they may never get another chance to see it again.  I walked off the bus like it was just another day as I deal with similar weather frequently back home in Atlantic Canada. On the way up the hill, some tourists chased some sheep that were grazing near the trail.  It was quite funny.  I'm not sure the sheep thought so as it darted off into the field to join some other recently-spooked sheep.

Dun Beag Broch

Some Spooked Sheep

We continued driving into some more remote areas of the island, passing by notable landmarks including The Old Man of Stor and Kilt Rock with it's waterfall cascading 60 metres into the ocean. We visited the ruins of Duntulm Castle which has ties to the clan MacDonald of the area.  As I roamed those ruins, I wondered if I had ties to this castle somewhere down the line through my supposed connections to a Clan MacDonald on the Isle of Skye.

The ruins of Duntulm Castle

Kilt Rock with it's waterfall cascading 60 metres into the ocean

Our first big stop of the day was for lunch in the seaside capital of Portree.  I set out to explore the town on my own at first but met up with some of the others in the group who were going for lunch at a little cafe by the waterfront.  Cafe Arriba is a tiny, funky little place with a young and hip clientele.  We sat at the table at the back corner near a window overlooking the scenic waterfront and ordered some coffee and sweets.  This is when I got to know some of my fellow travelers a little more.  A retired couple from Calgary, a woman from Pennsylvania who recently retired in Florida, a widowed man originally from Italy who had been married to a Scottish woman.  This is the part about traveling I really enjoy.  Those dinners, lunches and drinks in far flung places with complete strangers from all over the world...who are like people you've known all your life after only a couple of hours and food and drinks.  With a about an hour to kill after we finished our lunch, we wandered the little streets of Portree in search of souvenirs.  I found a book about Callum MacLeod and his handmade road, a beautiful picture of the city of Edinburgh to hang on the wall of my new apartment and some scarfs for my sisters.

A sign on the wall of Cafe Arriba in the town of Portree. A good read for the road.

The weather was starting to clear a little bit when we got back on the road to continue our circumnavigation of the Isle of Skye.  The next time we stopped, it was at a museum to visit some restored traditional black houses that were once widely used in the Highlands of Scotland.  There was a very nice gift shop there.  Unfortunately, due to the remoteness of the shop, there was no ATM or internet connection in the area and I had forgotten to get some cash so I was unable to purchase the items I'd been eyeing.

A traditional Black House

The rain was much heavier when we returned to the bus to settle in for the last leg of the day's journey.  We drove along some more remote country roads and despite the weather, the scenery was still among the most beautiful I'd ever seen.  Andrew purchased a CD at the gift shop and the beautiful sound of traditional Gaelic music lulled me in and out of a semi-sleeping state. 

Back in Broadford it was still raining so I had Andrew drop me off at the bottom of the hill so I could grab some takeout again.  I didn't feel like walking down the hill and back up again so at least this way, I would only have to do it once.  Macaroni pie and chips became somewhat of a staple for me in Scotland.  That evening, I stayed cozy and warm in my room at Hillview while the rain continued to fall and the wind howled through the night.  My last thought before slipping into a deep sleep was a wish for nicer weather the following day. 

Making my Way to the Lovely Isle of Skye

Part 1 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/02/my-journey-to-scotlands-cities.html
Part 2 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/next-stop-edinburgh-scotland.html
Part 3 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/72-hours-in-city-of-edinburgh.html
Part 4 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/a-real-introduction-to-history-and.html
Part 5 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/the-haunted-graveyards-and-underground.html
Part 6 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/a-tour-of-edinburgh-castle-and-solo.html
Part 7 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/farewell-edinburgh-hello-highlands.html

I slept very well during that first night of my grand tour of Scotland...and ate like a Queen the next morning!  I'd never experienced a complimentary breakfast that large before.  I ate so much, I almost had to be carried out to the sidewalk.  Every time I finished, more food would be laid before me and boy was it delicious...and homemade too!  I waited out front for the bus to arrive and while I waited, I noticed something peculiar; there were no cigarette butts or wads of gum on the sidewalk or anywhere else for that matter.  Back home, roads and sidewalks are littered with crushed butts and gum.

I was the first one picked up that morning and when I got on the bus, Andrew told me he liked to give everyone a chance to sit up front so he offered the very front seat to me.  I felt bad taking it from the lady who had been sitting there the day before but I also liked the idea of being able to see more through the front window.  The woman who had been sitting there the day before, didn't seem to mind that I took her seat because she just took the seat next to me.  At first I was a little annoyed that I had to share my seat with someone but after we got to talking, I realized she was good company and we had a lot in common.

Once we had everyone back on the bus, we made our way to the port of Mallaig to catch a ferry to the Isle of Skye, stopping at various points-of-interest along the way. One of them was a place called Glencoe, a beautiful area featuring a large valley (or glen as it's known in Scotland) where, in 1692, a massacre occurred.  The victims of this massacre were members of the MacDonald clan attacked in the early morning by men under the command of Captain  Robert Campbell.  Most of those men possessed the surname Campbell and to this day, The Clachaig Inn in Glencoe displays a sign that very obviously indicates that Campbell's are not welcome and will not be served.

After we passed Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in the United Kingdom, we arrived in the town of Fort William where we were booked in for a tour of Eilean Donan Castle.  Once used for defensive purposes and now open for tours and special ceremonies, the 13th century castle is one of the most visited (and photographed) in Scotland.  In North America, most of our buildings are from the 1800's and 1900's with a scattered few from the 1600's and 1700's. As I walked through the halls of that spectacular building, I couldn't wrap my head around the fact that parts of it were built in 1200's. 

When we arrived in Mallaig, the first thing I noticed was the famed Jacobite Express parked at the train station.  Had it been earlier in the season, a ride on that train would have been part of our itinerary.  I settled for a photo op instead.  The ferry to the Isle of Skye had not returned yet so we had an hour to kill before boarding.  I set out to explore the little town and when I was done looking in the shops and taking pictures, I found a grocery store where I picked up some snacks to eat on a bench by the boat docks.

It was a short sail to the Isle of Skye and by the time we arrived, the weather had changed for the worse and it was time to settle into our accommodations for the night.  I was dropped off at a cute little B&B on top of a hill with an amazing view.  Hillview B&B would be my base for the next two nights.  I settled in and left again on foot in search of something to eat.  The weather was much worse by this time but I was so hungry, I decided to tough it out and get the most out of my stay in the town of Broadford.  

Because I packed so lightly, I didn't have much in the way of rain gear, although I know now that I should have because I had heard that September is a particularly rainy month in Scotland.  I set out into the damp, foggy, windy evening and walked down the hill to the main road in search of a restaurant, pub or grocery store.  I made the mistake of assuming that there would be a take-away place nearby.  I walked for 45 minutes in those dreadful conditions before I found a place that was open and willing to prepare me something to take back to the B&B.  At first, the woman who greeted me said they didn't plan to prepare anything from the takeaway menu that evening and it would be a very long wait if they did.  I think she and her coworkers must have felt sorry for me when I thanked them anyway and turned to leave.  They also must have noticed I was soaked to the bone and traveling on foot so she asked me to take a seat and within ten minutes, an order of chips and macaroni pie was brought out to me.  I thanked them profusely and ventured back out into the rain storm and returned to Hillview to enjoy my meal.  By the time I got back, I and my container of food were completely waterlogged.  Disappointed, I opened the container, expecting to see an inedible pile of mush but found a perfect meal untouched by the sogginess of its container. 

Once again, I slept like a baby in a beautiful, comfortable room that didn't fit the budget tour I had booked.  And I wasn't complaining one bit!