Another Day of Grace: United Kingdom

Showing posts with label United Kingdom. Show all posts

Monday, June 12, 2017

Continued from...
Part 1 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/02/my-journey-to-scotlands-cities.html
Part 2 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/next-stop-edinburgh-scotland.html
Part 3 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/72-hours-in-city-of-edinburgh.html
Part 4 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/a-real-introduction-to-history-and.html
Part 5 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/the-haunted-graveyards-and-underground.html
Part 6 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/a-tour-of-edinburgh-castle-and-solo.html
Part 7 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/farewell-edinburgh-hello-highlands.html
Part 8 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2016/11/making-my-way-to-lovely-isle-of-skye.html
Part 9 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/05/so-long-for-now-beautiful-isle-and-onto.html
Part 10 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/06/lessons-in-scottish-history-and.html

My last morning in Scotland was hectic despite the fact that, thankfully, the hotel fire alarm did not go off during the night. I quickly showered and was disappointed to discover another issue with the room; a shower door that only closes half way and therefore results in the entire bathroom being flooded. I had to pass it off as not my concern as I was in a rush to catch my plane. Besides, there were so many issues with the hotel room that I just couldn't be bothered to deal with the front desk anymore by that point.

I ate a quick breakfast before checking out and made the five-minute walk to the airport. How on earth a five-minute walk turns out to be actually twenty is beyond me. There I was walking while half asleep, cold and carrying all my luggage after being told the hotel was a five-minute walk from the airport. That's quite the exaggeration. In case you're wondering, I gave this hotel one star on Trip Advisor and I don't even think it deserved that for the inconveniences I endured. I wish I could say my misfortunes that morning ended there but sadly, things only got worse.

I checked in for my flight and made it through security with more than enough time to find somewhere to relax and have a coffee. I went to my gate and checked my flight status, found a Starbucks that wasn't too crowded and, with my hazelnut latte in hand, took a seat in the corner. I was about half way through my latte when I noticed that my shopping bags with the scarves I had bought for my sisters and my coat were nowhere to be found. Thinking I might have left them near the counter when I was ordering my coffee, I asked the barista if she had found anything but she hadn't. I raced through the airport backtracking ever step I took since I arrived, asking anyone who would listen if they spotted the items anywhere. I spoke with a security guard, a woman working in the duty-free shop and even someone at the main security area. No one had found anything. By this time I was hysterical. The scarves were not cheap and I made a significant effort into finding just the right ones.   The coat was one of my favorites and it too was not cheap.

I frantically wandered around in circles looking everywhere. I'm must have roused suspicion in some people as I was getting some strange looks. I was also worried that if someone found the bag unattended, I could be in some trouble. When I spotted two police officers chatting near an exit, I approached to let them know the situation but didn't make it to them because something on a nearby bench caught my eye. There, sitting in plain view surrounded by people waiting to board their plane was my untouched belongings. I bolted towards the items and grabbed them from the chair while loudly exclaiming "I must have left this here hours ago". The look on the faces of everyone in the vicinity said it all; who is this crazy woman grabbing unattended belongings from an airport bench and why is she talking to herself. Thankfully, no one alerted security and I boarded my plane soon after without incident.

The winds must have been in our favor that morning because it took an hour and a half less time to fly from Glasgow than it did to fly in. The only eventful thing to happen on that flight was a flyover of of a large and snowy landmass. I looked out my window at a large white landmass and could see waterfalls and a river and mountains. My mind went blank as I tried to figure out what the landmass could be. Iceland? Newfoundland? Nope, Greenland! Now I guess I can say I've been to Greenland...or at least that I saw it from above.

I arrived in Halifax earlier than anticipated so I had to wait a few hours for my shuttle back to Cape Breton. Other than a bit of bad weather in the Scottish Highlands, one bad hotel and the fact that 9 days in Scotland wasn't long enough, the trip was perfect in every way and I hope to return to Scotland again in the near future.

Monday, June 5, 2017

Lessons in Scottish History and an Eventful Final Night

We arrived at the Battlefield of Culloden in the early afternoon and started our tour with a walk-through of the indoor museum and exhibit. I didn't know all that much about the famed and brutal battle but after I did that walk-through, I knew everything there was to know including just how devastatingly brutal the battle was. I was particularly disturbed by the 3D movie that was shown on all four walls of a fairly large room at the end of the exhibit. It was a very realistic reenactment of the battle. Standing in the middle of that room with scenes of the recreated battle happening all aroud me made it seem like I was right there in the middle of it all. After brushing up on my knowledge of one of Scotland's most famed battles, I stepped outside onto the actual battlefield where, On April 16th, 1746 around 2000 men lost their lives in a relatively short amount of time.

There were quite a few people wandering the battlefield that day but despite the crowds, it seemed eerily quiet. The kind of quiet that caused goosebumps to form on my arms and the hair to stand up on the back of my neck. Against a gentle breeze, I slowly walked along around that vast stretch of land where so many lost their lives. A hand-held device and headphones with dialogue about the battle was handed out to everyone before they began their walkabout of the battlefield. I took one with me but didn't use it. I separated from the group and walked the battlefield alone, at my own pace and without the noise pollution of a robotic-sounding guide in my ears. I felt this was the best way to get a feel of the place and to envision what transpired in that exact spot almost 300 years earlier. As I walked, the realization hit me that the Battle of Culloden is not only a part of Scotland's history, but also a part of my history.

Before heading to our final destination, we made one more stop at the location where The Battle of Bannockburn took place in 1314. We got a brief history of the battle, the battlefield, the huge statue of Robert the Bruce and a lesson in the historical inaccuracies portrayed in the movie Braveheart.

It took about an hour to drive back to Glasgow. I requested to be dropped off there so I wouldn't have to travel from Edinburgh to catch my plane the next morning. After saying goodbye to Andrew and the rest of the group, I exited the bus into one of the cities busy squares where students and workers on lunch break hang out and tried to find a bus to take me to my hotel near the airport. I figured it would be easy to get there from downtown Glasgow considering how easy it was to travel from the airport to downtown when I had first arrived in Scotland. Alas, that was not to be. It took me over an hour to find the right bus stop and than to find the right bus. And that was just the start of my travel woes that evening.

I booked a room at the Ramada Glasgow a few weeks in advance of my trip and was in contact with staff several times before I boarded my flight to ask general questions about directions and the like. I confirmed my booking before arrival and even received an email from the hotel with the name "Ramada Glasgow" in the email and I was told the hotel was only a few minute's walk from the airport. That evening, I got off the bus near the front of the airport and went inside to ask the help desk for directions to the hotel. I was provided with a map and some vague directions before going off into the night. I followed the directions and watched for the landmarks marked on the map and followed it exactly to the spot where the hotel should be...and it wasn't there. I walked around some more thinking I took a wrong turn. How hard could it be to find a hotel in such a small area, right? I walked and walked and walked until I was exhausted and frustrated beyond belief. It started to rain. It started to downpour. I got wet. I was starving. All I wanted to do was check in to my hotel and and rest up for the long journey home the next day. I started walking in the other direction. I turned down another road and another and I tried to find someone to ask for directions but no one was around. I started to get a little scared as it was getting darker and I was alone in the rain in an area where there weren't a lot of people in a foreign country where I didn't know anyone. Finally, I spotted a service station in the distance. I walked towards it.

When I finally arrived at that service station, the young man at the counter had no idea what I was talking about. He did, however, tell me to check with the delivery driver who was pumping gas because he would probably know the area best. I don't normally approach strangers in this manner while traveling but I was desperate and willing to do anything just to get in a warm, cozy, dry bed ASAP. I asked him if he knew where the Ramada Glasgow was and he did! I also normally don't take drives from strangers while traveling but my desperation caused me to have a lapsed in better judgement. Fortunately, he took me straight to the hotel, or at least to where the hotel used to be. We stopped in front of a Courtyard Marriott and he swore up and down that this had been the Ramada Glasgow not long ago. He was so sure of it, he told me to wait in the car while he went inside to ask someone where it was. This is when I discovered that the Ramada Glasgow had changed its name to the Courtyard Marriott. Once I knew for sure I was in the right place, I thanked my driver profusely and entered the hotel lobby ready to rip a piece of someone but I was too tired to fight it. I checked in and was finally headed to my room in preparation to unwind for the evening. Except, that is not exactly the way things went.

I thought that not being able to open my room door with my key card and not being able to get the lights working in the room would be the only minor things I would experience that evening. Boy was I wrong. My first mistake was realizing I was hungry and going downstairs in search of something to eat. I didn't feel like having an entire large meal so I went in search of the convenience store that was listed as one of the amenities of the hotel. When I was unable to locate it, the lady at the front desk informed me that all that was left in the store that evening was in the room behind her - a bunch of empty shelves. My stay at the Ramada Glasgow - or should I say the Courtyard Marriott - wasn't off to a good start and it didn't end there. After I had to shell out more money than I wanted to order a meal from the hotel bar and restaurant, I sat down to enjoy what should have been a peaceful meal after the hellish evening I'd experienced. That peace was shattered before my fork even made it to my mouth by the sound of a fire alarm going off and staff running around in a panic seemingly not knowing what to do. While some staff members ran around like chickens with their heads cut off, I approached the front desk to ask the scared-looking receptionist what was going on. All she told me was she didn't know, it was being looked into and the alarm had been going off like that all day. Lovely. So much for a good night's sleep. Fortunately, the alarm only went off one more time and I was able to sleep soundly until my alarm went off at 5am.

Saturday, May 27, 2017

So Long for Now Beautiful Isle and Onto Whiskey and Lake Monsters

Part 1 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/02/my-journey-to-scotlands-cities.html
Part 2 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/next-stop-edinburgh-scotland.html
Part 3 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/72-hours-in-city-of-edinburgh.html
Part 4 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/a-real-introduction-to-history-and.html
Part 5 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/the-haunted-graveyards-and-underground.html
Part 6 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/a-tour-of-edinburgh-castle-and-solo.html
Part 7 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/farewell-edinburgh-hello-highlands.html
Part 8 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2016/11/making-my-way-to-lovely-isle-of-skye.html

Part 9 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/05/exploring-towns-brochs-and-castles-of.html

I awoke to the sun shining on that last morning on the Isle of Skye. Finally, I was able to get a clear glimpse of that fantastic view from atop that hill. After yet another hearty breakfast, I was once again back on the bus and off the tackle more adventures around the Highlands of Scotland. On this day, we took a different route off the Island and drove off the Isle of Skye instead of taking a ferry. Perhaps due to my ancestral connections to the island, I felt sad at leaving it, almost like leaving home. It was a rather strange feeling like none I ever experienced when leaving any other places I've visited.

The view from Hillview

As we drove along those scenic country roads, I heard more stories and folklore about the people who shaped the land. Stories such as the five sisters of Kintail and fairies stalking the glens and knolls of the countryside. Our first stop of the day was the Glenlivet Whisky Distillery Now, I'm not a fan of Whiskey. In fact, I don't even understand how anyone can sip on it and not gag or throw up like I almost do every time I take a sip. The option was there for anyone who didn't want to take the tour to stay on the bus or go for a walk around the area. Since whisky seems to be as much a part of Scottish culture as kilts or bagpipes, I opted to take the tour and, despite my dislike for the drink, it was quite interesting. I may not appreciate the taste of whisky but I can certainly appreciate the amount of time and work that goes into making it! At the end of the tour, I kept an open mind and even tried the sample that was offered to me. I took a tiny swig and promptly gagged. At least I gave it another chance. Whisky just doesn't agree with me. I don't know how everyone around me looked like they were thoroughly enjoying and even savoring it while I felt like my throat was on fire after a little drop.

The whiskey sample I was given at the end of the tour. I could only drink about half of it before I gagged.


Learning how whiskey is made - just some of the sights in and around the brewery

Our next stop was the pretty little town of Beuly where we stopped long enough time to eat lunch and wander the village. I decided to walk the entire length of the main street and see what was available for restaurants and cafes. There were quite a few places but there seemed to be lineups and large crowds at every one of them. A couple of tour buses from other companies had arrived in the town at the same time so I decided to keep walking for a bit to allow the crowds to disperse. When I returned to where most of the eateries are, my eyes locked onto the one place that didn't look too crowded, a little cafe called Corner on the Square. I ordered a veggie quiche and some other delicious-looking item that I had never heard of before and can't remember the name of. With food in hand, I found myself in a bit of a dilemma; there were no tables or anywhere to sit inside so I had to find a place to sit outside. I once again wandered around the town looking for a place to enjoy my meal. All the benches and picnic tables were taken so I sat on a ledge near a bus stop in front of a town-hallish looking building. Others soon followed and soon the entire ledge was bustling with tourists eating lunch in the midday sun along a busy street in the pretty little town of Beuly.

I've been told that a trip to Scotland is not complete without a visit to one of the most famous lakes in Scotland and possible the whole world, Loch Ness. I'm pretty sure everyone reading this is probably aware of what makes the lake so famous and had it not been on the itinerary of this tour, I don't think I would have made a special detour to try and spot a monster that may or may not be still alive if it even ever existed. That being said, my afternoon on the Loch did end up being a highlight of the trip. We left Beuly and drove a long stretch of highway until we reached Urquhart Castle. After a walk through the visitor centre, I ventured off on my own to explore the ruins of the great castle with instructions to meet in an hour to board a cruise on the Loch.

Once again, I found myself wandering around an ancient castle and imagining what it was once like and trying to wrap my head around some of the (both brutal and historical) things must have transpired on that very spot over hundreds of years. The setting of the ruins is breathtaking with what's left of the once stately castle sitting on the banks of Loch Ness.

With the hour almost up, I made my way to the docks by the lake and climbed aboard the Jacobite Warrior and I took a seat on the upper outside deck. The air was a little cook but this was the best place to get the best view of the lake and surrounding countryside. The winds had picked up a bit but the sun was shining on the Loch, giving it a crystal clear, glass-like finish until we got out to the middle of the lake where it was quite rough. I scanned the deep waters looking for signs of the famous sea serpent that is said to live in the loch but Nessie remained elusive. Some sonar equipment is on display so passengers can watch to see if any large objects are lurking beneath the surface. I saw nothing there either. Some say Nessie died and that is why she has not been seen in a while. The gift shops, amusement park, boat tours and Nessie merchandise give me the impression that perhaps she never existed except to attract foreign tourists. Yes, I am a skeptic until I see it with my own eyes.

Loch Ness

Sonar equipment used to detect Nessie...or more likely jsut any big mass on the lake.

We arrived in Fort Augustus in the early evening and before checking into our accommodations for the night, we attended a live show at the Clansman Centre. Inside the dark theatre, a man dressed in period costume and carrying a Claymore sword walked out on stage. After a brief history on the use of the Claymore, a medieval (and quite effective) weapon used in battles from the 15th to the 17th century, we were shown the proper way to wear a kilt. I you are thinking the way I did before seeing this demonstration, you probably think that wearing a kilt is simply the same as wearing any skirt. Well, not quite...and the Scots prefer that no one use the word skirt to describe a kilt. The kilt is, after all, an item of clothing usually worn by men and was, in the past, commonly worn on the battlefield. I was able to see exactly how the kilt was worn and what went into the actual putting on of the kilt and let me tell you, it's a lot harder than it looks!

Fort Augustus is another pretty little town with a canal in the centre of the downtown area. Since it was our last night together as a group (some were headed to the Orkney islands the next day with another guide while the rest of us, me included, were headed back to Glasgow and Edinburgh) we decided to go out to dinner together. However, that didn't quite work out as planned. Some members of the group decided to call it a night while the rest of us couldn't decide on one place to eat so we ended up going our separate ways. The American lady I had been sharing a seat with on the bus suggested pizza for anyone who wanted to join her. I hadn't tried Scottish pizza yet so I went with her. We found a place called The Moorings that served pizza and a lot of other delicious-sounding meals. Since I already had pizza on the brain, I ordered a small vegetarian pizza thinking I would take half of it back to the hotel to have for breakfast the next morning. Well that didn't happen because it was so good and I was so hungry, I just polished it all off in one sitting. The large windows in the restaurant allowed for a nice view of the little town and because it wasn't overly crowded with people waiting for tables, we felt comfortable to stay and talk for a while after we ate.

I'm a bit of an introvert so meeting new people is a tad of a chore for me sometimes but occasionally, I meet a person who I instantly like and trust and we become instant friends. I don't often meet someone I can share intimate details of my life with after only a couple of days but I felt very comfortable with this person, like I had known her all my life. We talked about the recent, sudden loss of our mothers at fairly young ages. We talked about our careers and hobbies and families and travels. At one point, she blurted out something that both surprised me. "I'm proud of you". Of course, I was initially baffled by this statement. How can a who was a total stranger 4 days earlier be proud of me? "I wish I could have done what you are doing at your age...traveling by myself. I was too scared when I was younger. Keep doing what you are doing and don't let anyone tell you otherwise". I was shocked. That was the first time anyone had ever told me they were proud of me for traveling on my own. I've gotten lots of comments over the years about my solo travels. Usually they were along the line of "you know, it's time to get your priorities straight and start thinking about starting a family" or "one of these days, you are going to get raped/kipnapped/killed/beat up/robbed while wandering around these foreign countries". Hearing those words made me feel more confident in my own feelings towards my lifestyle. I've never felt that I'm being irresponsible, selfish or careless when it comes to my travels but the people around me have tried to make me feel that way my whole life and at times, I wonder if maybe it is true. It was a relief to hear someone tell me that I am on the right track in life. This is why I find it easier making friends on the road despite being more on the introverted side. I'm more likely to meet more open-minded, adventurous people who are living their lives to the fullest. People who are doing things, who don't live in the tiny bubbles of their little corner of the world with their house, white picket fence, television and 2.5 kids. Too bad the people around me can't see that just because I don't live a semi-sheltered and structured life like they do, it doesn't mean there's something wrong with me. It just means I am following my own path and living my life the way I want to live it. And I'm not hurting anyone by doing so!

We left the restaurant almost two hours after we arrived and set out to find a bank machine to get some cash out. In our wanderings, we forgot to keep track of where we were and how to get back to the main road and back to our guest house. We walked around for a long time until we found an area that looked familiar and walked up a road that looked like the road that our guest house was on. It had been a light drizzle all evening until suddenly, we got caught in a straight and heavy downpour. We walked and walked in that cold, hard rain for what seemed like forever and realized we were on the wrong road. We returned to the main road and walked and walked again until we found another road that looked familiar. Nope. Wrong road again. Eventually, we found The Thistle Dubh and walked in the front door drenched from head to toe. I never laughed so hard in my life. Who knew getting lost in a rainstorm in a foreign country could be so fun. I guess any situation can be turned into something positive as long as you are in good company.

I love getting lost in foreign countries. Not only does it provide opportunity to see things I would otherwise not see and experience things I would otherwise not experience, it provides me with memorable and entertaining stories to share later. These memories always being a smile to my face and that night was one of those nights that will surely stay fresh in my mind for a long time to come.

The Thistle Dubh (a cute little play on words if you know the proper pronunciation of those two gaelic words. Clue: It ends up sounding very much like "this'll do")

Sunday, May 14, 2017

Exploring the Towns, Brochs and Castles of the Isle of Skye

When I was doing research for this trip, the Isle of Skye wasn't a part of my original itinerary until I started coming across information about it. The pictures I viewed online were what did it for me and I made extra time and put aside extra money to make sure it was a part of my trip. If you've never been to the Isle of Skye than be forewarned that if you look at the pictures online and expect to see the same thing in person, you will be disappointed; those pictures are very misleading. The Isle of Skye is far more beautiful in person than any picture you will see anywhere. And the island has more than looks going for it. The history is intriguing, brutal and colorful and the people as hearty as they are friendly. And one would have to be quite hearty to thrive in that wild (and, I'd imagine during the winter months, unforgiving!) landscape.

As we drove along, Andrew told us stories about that history and some of the notable people who were a part of it and I also learned about some random, but nonetheless, interesting facts about Scotland. I learned about an extraordinary man named Callum MacLeod who, after becoming fed up with the state of traveling on his island of Rassay (a small island which can be seen from the Isle of Skye), single-handedly built a road. I learned that the United Kindom, including Scotland, uses a mix of the Imperial and Metric systems. I learned that one of the reasons there are so may sheep in Scotland is because they have no predators there. I learned about the Highland Midge, a fly that is similar to what I know as mosquitoes here in Canada but much worse. I learned that a popular travel company filmed a very comical commercial on the Isle of Skye and they cast some of the local sheep. I had the opportunity to meet some of those sheep. Well sort of.

Our first stop (where we actually got out of the bus and ventured into the rain and wind) was at a 2500-year old tower (or Broch as it is commonly known in Scotland). It was a bit of hike uphill to get to Dun Beag Broch and by that time the winds were hurricane-force mixed with monsoon rain. Some of the people on my bus were reluctant to even go outside in that weather until Andrew reminding them that they may never get another chance to see it again. I walked off the bus like it was just another day as I deal with similar weather frequently back home in Atlantic Canada. On the way up the hill, some tourists chased some sheep that were grazing near the trail. It was quite funny. I'm not sure the sheep thought so as it darted off into the field to join some other recently-spooked sheep.

Dun Beag Broch

Some Spooked Sheep

We continued driving into some more remote areas of the island, passing by notable landmarks including The Old Man of Stor and Kilt Rock with it's waterfall cascading 60 metres into the ocean. We visited the ruins of Duntulm Castle which has ties to the clan MacDonald of the area. As I roamed those ruins, I wondered if I had ties to this castle somewhere down the line through my supposed connections to a Clan MacDonald on the Isle of Skye.

The ruins of Duntulm Castle

Kilt Rock with it's waterfall cascading 60 metres into the ocean

Our first big stop of the day was for lunch in the seaside capital of Portree. I set out to explore the town on my own at first but met up with some of the others in the group who were going for lunch at a little cafe by the waterfront. Cafe Arriba is a tiny, funky little place with a young and hip clientele. We sat at the table at the back corner near a window overlooking the scenic waterfront and ordered some coffee and sweets. This is when I got to know some of my fellow travelers a little more. A retired couple from Calgary, a woman from Pennsylvania who recently retired in Florida, a widowed man originally from Italy who had been married to a Scottish woman. This is the part about traveling I really enjoy. Those dinners, lunches and drinks in far flung places with complete strangers from all over the world...who are like people you've known all your life after only a couple of hours and food and drinks. With a about an hour to kill after we finished our lunch, we wandered the little streets of Portree in search of souvenirs. I found a book about Callum MacLeod and his handmade road, a beautiful picture of the city of Edinburgh to hang on the wall of my new apartment and some scarfs for my sisters.

A sign on the wall of Cafe Arriba in the town of Portree.

A good read for the road.

The weather was starting to clear a little bit when we got back on the road to continue our circumnavigation of the Isle of Skye. The next time we stopped, it was at a museum to visit some restored traditional black houses that were once widely used in the Highlands of Scotland. There was a very nice gift shop there. Unfortunately, due to the remoteness of the shop, there was no ATM or internet connection in the area and I had forgotten to get some cash so I was unable to purchase the items I'd been eyeing.

A traditional Black House

The rain was much heavier when we returned to the bus to settle in for the last leg of the day's journey. We drove along some more remote country roads and despite the weather, the scenery was still among the most beautiful I'd ever seen. Andrew purchased a CD at the gift shop and the beautiful sound of traditional Gaelic music lulled me in and out of a semi-sleeping state.

Back in Broadford it was still raining so I had Andrew drop me off at the bottom of the hill so I could grab some takeout again. I didn't feel like walking down the hill and back up again so at least this way, I would only have to do it once. Macaroni pie and chips became somewhat of a staple for me in Scotland. That evening, I stayed cozy and warm in my room at Hillview while the rain continued to fall and the wind howled through the night. My last thought before slipping into a deep sleep was a wish for nicer weather the following day.

Wednesday, May 3, 2017

Making my Way to the Lovely Isle of Skye

Part 1 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/02/my-journey-to-scotlands-cities.html
Part 2 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/next-stop-edinburgh-scotland.html
Part 3 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/72-hours-in-city-of-edinburgh.html
Part 4 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/a-real-introduction-to-history-and.html
Part 5 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/the-haunted-graveyards-and-underground.html
Part 6 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/a-tour-of-edinburgh-castle-and-solo.html
Part 7 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/04/farewell-edinburgh-hello-highlands.html

I slept very well during that first night of my grand tour of Scotland...and ate like a Queen the next morning! I'd never experienced a complimentary breakfast that large before. I ate so much, I almost had to be carried out to the sidewalk. Every time I finished, more food would be laid before me and boy was it delicious...and homemade too! I waited out front for the bus to arrive and while I waited, I noticed something peculiar; there were no cigarette butts or wads of gum on the sidewalk or anywhere else for that matter. Back home, roads and sidewalks are littered with crushed butts and gum.

I was the first one picked up that morning and when I got on the bus, Andrew told me he liked to give everyone a chance to sit up front so he offered the very front seat to me. I felt bad taking it from the lady who had been sitting there the day before but I also liked the idea of being able to see more through the front window. The woman who had been sitting there the day before, didn't seem to mind that I took her seat because she just took the seat next to me. At first I was a little annoyed that I had to share my seat with someone but after we got to talking, I realized she was good company and we had a lot in common.

Once we had everyone back on the bus, we made our way to the port of Mallaig to catch a ferry to the Isle of Skye, stopping at various points-of-interest along the way. One of them was a place called Glencoe, a beautiful area featuring a large valley (or glen as it's known in Scotland) where, in 1692, a massacre occurred. The victims of this massacre were members of the MacDonald clan attacked in the early morning by men under the command of Captain Robert Campbell. Most of those men possessed the surname Campbell and to this day, The Clachaig Inn in Glencoe displays a sign that very obviously indicates that Campbell's are not welcome and will not be served.

After we passed Ben Nevis, the tallest mountain in the United Kingdom, we arrived in the town of Fort William where we were booked in for a tour of Eilean Donan Castle. Once used for defensive purposes and now open for tours and special ceremonies, the 13th century castle is one of the most visited (and photographed) in Scotland. In North America, most of our buildings are from the 1800's and 1900's with a scattered few from the 1600's and 1700's. As I walked through the halls of that spectacular building, I couldn't wrap my head around the fact that parts of it were built in 1200's.

When we arrived in Mallaig, the first thing I noticed was the famed Jacobite Express parked at the train station. Had it been earlier in the season, a ride on that train would have been part of our itinerary. I settled for a photo op instead. The ferry to the Isle of Skye had not returned yet so we had an hour to kill before boarding. I set out to explore the little town and when I was done looking in the shops and taking pictures, I found a grocery store where I picked up some snacks to eat on a bench by the boat docks.

It was a short sail to the Isle of Skye and by the time we arrived, the weather had changed for the worse and it was time to settle into our accommodations for the night. I was dropped off at a cute little B&B on top of a hill with an amazing view. Hillview B&B would be my base for the next two nights. I settled in and left again on foot in search of something to eat. The weather was much worse by this time but I was so hungry, I decided to tough it out and get the most out of my stay in the town of Broadford.

Because I packed so lightly, I didn't have much in the way of rain gear, although I know now that I should have because I had heard that September is a particularly rainy month in Scotland. I set out into the damp, foggy, windy evening and walked down the hill to the main road in search of a restaurant, pub or grocery store. I made the mistake of assuming that there would be a take-away place nearby. I walked for 45 minutes in those dreadful conditions before I found a place that was open and willing to prepare me something to take back to the B&B. At first, the woman who greeted me said they didn't plan to prepare anything from the takeaway menu that evening and it would be a very long wait if they did. I think she and her coworkers must have felt sorry for me when I thanked them anyway and turned to leave. They also must have noticed I was soaked to the bone and traveling on foot so she asked me to take a seat and within ten minutes, an order of chips and macaroni pie was brought out to me. I thanked them profusely and ventured back out into the rain storm and returned to Hillview to enjoy my meal. By the time I got back, I and my container of food were completely waterlogged. Disappointed, I opened the container, expecting to see an inedible pile of mush but found a perfect meal untouched by the sogginess of its container.

Once again, I slept like a baby in a beautiful, comfortable room that didn't fit the budget tour I had booked. And I wasn't complaining one bit!

Friday, April 7, 2017

A Tour of Edinburgh Castle and a Solo Visit to one of the World's Most Haunted Graveyards

I arrived at the castle to the sounds of Scotland the Brave being performed by a lone piper outfitted in full traditional regalia. A large crowd had gathered around the entrance of the castle and the lineup to get through was quite long. Fortunately for me, I had already purchased my tickets online a couple of weeks earlier and one of the perks of buying in advance was it allowed visitors to skip the lineup and go right on into the castle grounds.

I knew from looking at pictures and from what I had heard that Edinburgh Castle is big but I wasn't expecting it to be quite as big as it actually is. I put an entire afternoon aside to visit thinking it would be enough time and it wasn't. I wandered around trying to see as much as possible and got lost a few times because the place is like a maze! I visited the National War Museum of Scotland and tried to find the exhibit that features something about the Cape Breton Highlanders but didn't find it. I watched a man in period costume do a pike demonstration (a pike is a type of weapon the Scots used in war, apparently with quite gruesome results). And I got to see the original Crown Jewels of Scotland which left me awestruck as I stood before the real crown jewels worn by Queen Mary of Scots during her coronation in 1543.

I walked around those grounds where battles were fought and royalty once walked and tried to visit every building and every exhibit but I just didn't have time to see it all before closing time. I was one of the last ones to leave in a large crowd of other visitors who were also trying to squeeze as much in as possible. I exited the main gate of the castle and made my way back onto the Royal Mile. It was a nice evening and I didn't want to go back to the hotel just yet. I walked down the street and noticed people were still going into St. Giles Cathedral. I wandered into the grand cathedral which I heard is home to a statue of an angel playing the bagpipes. I picked a good time wander in too; a little orchestra was practicing near the front of the alter and the music was hauntingly captivating.

The inside of the ancient cathedral is beautiful and I could have stayed in there for hours just looking at all the sculptures and artwork. I noticed some war memorial plaques on the wall and scrolled through the names to see if I could see my last name among them. I saw MacDonald and MacLellan and MacKenzie...but, alas, no MacEachern.

It was almost dark when I left St. Giles and my time in Edinburgh was running out. I wanted to ensure my last night in the city would be memorable so I pondered my options while taking a break in Parliament Square. One thing I knew for sure was I wasn't ready to return to the hotel just yet. I remember thinking that the calm weather and impending darkness made for perfect conditions to take another stroll through Greyfriar's courtyard...alone and by the light of the moon and stars only.

It took a while for me to find the Greyfriar's Kirkyard although I had already been there twice. Once I found it, I entered and was pleased to see that I had it all to myself. I saw no shadows or figures of living beings lurking around but I was hoping for non-living ones.

I walked around until I found a comfortable place to sit. I listened carefully but all I heard was the sound of the wind rustling the leaves in the trees. When my eyes were sufficiently adjusted to the darkness, I peered into the night searching for any sign of shadowy figures or apparitions but all I saw were headstones. I spotted the tomb of Sir George "Bluidy" MacKenzie. I stared at that creepily imposing building, waiting for some figure to come out of it or to hear a blood-curdling scream. Nothing. So I walked right up to it, did a 360 degree turn to make sure no one was watching and checked the door. Locked. I'm certain I would have gone in had it been unlocked. I love everything paranormal but I remain a skeptic. I always will be until I see or experience something undoubtedly paranormal. That night in Greyfriar's Kirkyard, said to the one of the most haunted locations in the world, I got nothing. No kicks, slaps, punches or pinches. No disembodied voices. No ghostly apparitions. Not even the heebie jeebies. Heck, the hair on the back of my neck didn't even stand up.

Sir George "Bluidy" MacKenzie's tomb

Upon leaving Greyfriar's, I got lost again. I love getting lost in new cities though so it wasn't a big deal. It's during those times that I find the places that are not in the guide books. I walked and walked, not really knowing where I was going, and just watched all the people out for a stroll in that beautiful city on a Saturday night. I went up streets I hadn't seen before, went through little alleyways that led to other unfamiliar streets and up some stairs that led to another street. Edinburgh is probably the only city I have traveled to so far where I felt 100% safe doing this at night by myself.

When I did finally find my hotel, I settled into the bar area and ordered myself a plate of Veggie Lasagna (which was delicious by the way!) and a beer. The excitement of the city as I saw it through the restaurant window had me torn between going to bed after I ate so I could be well-rested for my early wake-up call the next morning...or taking another stroll, my last evening stroll, up The Royal Mile. I finished my meal, grabbed a heavier sweater from my room and enjoyed a long stroll up that lively street on that last night in the City of Edinburgh. You only live once right?

Saturday, March 18, 2017

A Real Introduction to the History and Culture of Edinburgh

Continued from:
Part 1 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/02/my-journey-to-scotlands-cities.html
Part 2 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/next-stop-edinburgh-scotland.html
Part 3 - http://anotherdayforgrace.blogspot.ca/2017/03/72-hours-in-city-of-edinburgh.html

My second day in Edinburgh was off to a great start. I awoke refreshed and rested and ready to take on another day of exploring. Breakfast in the hotel dining area was a tad confusing and I don't think I quite grasped what it was I was supposed to do. I walked in, I was stopped by a server who gave me instructions and I proceeded to follow those instructions. There was no defined queue or waiting area and various items were scattered all over the place. I found out later that the server who greeted me must have thought I had pre-ordered and pre-paid for breakfast. I thought it was free and ate until I was stuffed. I never was billed for it but discovered later that breakfast at the hotel was not free.

I had free time before making my way to Starbucks on the Royal Mile to join the free walking tour through Sandemans New Europe Tours so I grabbed a coffee and sat on a bench in Parliament Square and people-watched for a while. This is one of the things I miss about living in a city; just sitting somewhere, like a fly on the wall, and watching everyone go on with their daily lives and taking in the excitement that buzzes in the air of the downtown area of any city.

The walking tour left not far from that area so I walked around the corner five minutes before the scheduled departure and met my guide, Fraser. There were more people taking the tour that I thought there would be. Fortunately, Fraser had a tall flag that he waved in the air as we walked along so we wouldn't lose site of him.

I admit, I wasn't expecting much from this walking tour. I only signed up for it because it was free and I thought I might learn a few things or see things I would otherwise not see. I assumed the only good thing about it would be that it's free. How very wrong I was.

The tour lasted about two hours and delivered way more than I expected. In fact, it was one of the best walking tours I've ever been on! Not only did I see historical buildings and monuments, I learned the history of them the notable people who lived in Edinburgh throughout history. I learned about the gruesome public hangings that the townspeople came out to watch. I learned that the South Bridge is cursed because the first person to cross it after its construction crossed in a coffin. She was the eldest citizen of the city and it was decided that she would be the first to cross - dead or alive. I learned that J. K. Rowling, the creator of Harry Potter, got inspiration from gravestones in Greyfriar's Kirkyard when choosing names for some of her characters. I learned that some of the graves in this graveyard were looted by grave-robbers but they didn't steal jewels; they stole the actual bodies for medical and science research. I learned about Greyfriar's Bobby, the beloved dog whose grave at Greyfriar's Kirkyard has been turned into a shrine of flowers and gifts left by admirers. I learned that the fountain that stands in dedication of this beloved dog was once a two-tiered fountain with an upper level for humans to drink from and a lower level for dogs to drink from. The statue's nose has been rubbed for good luck so much that Bobby now looks more like a pug than a Skye Terrier. I learned that the term s**t-faced originated during a time in Europe when residents had no flush toilets and to dispose of waste, it was acceptable to simply toss it out of a window and into the gutters. This was usually done late at night when, coincidentally, the drunken patrons of local pubs would be on their way home and I'm sure you can figure it out from there! I learned that one of the public square's off the Royal Mile was historically used and is still used to this day for gathering the city residents together to announce important announcements such as royal births and the results of Brexit. I also learned that Scotland has a very bloody, brutal history...one where, I noticed throughout this tour, every story told ends with someone or many people being killed.

Greyfriar's Kirkyard

The gravesite of Greyfriar's Bobby

When the tour ended, we parted ways near the National Museum of Scotland. Now, some people may say that the "free" tour ended in front of the museum so that everyone would naturally wander into the museum and pay the entry fee, therefore making the entire tour some sort of trick to get people to go to the museum. Well, I personally doubt that. I tipped my guide generously and was glad to pay the small entry fee to the museum as it was somewhere I planned to visit anyway. This made it all that more convenient because I would have gotten hopelessly lost trying to find it.

I didn't want to spend too much time in the museum as my time in Edinburgh was short as it was and I had so many other things to see and do but I did walk through every room on every floor, stopping at the things that interested me the most; the exhibit about Alexander Graham Bell (because of his ties to Cape Breton Island where I live), Dolly the cloned sheep and the observation deck with the view of the city were among some of the most interesting exhibits for me. Overall, the population of Scots around the world may be relatively small but they've certainly done their fair share of notable things as I learned at the museum.

Upon leaving the museum, I must have taken a wrong turn. I thought I was going the right way but when things started to look unfamiliar, I realized I was quite lost. I walked for well over an hour and ended up in a residential neighborhood that looked nothing like anywhere I had been in the city up to that moment. I kept walking hoping to find someone to ask for directions but the neighborhood was like a ghost town. Eventually, I ended up back on St. Mary's St. and at my hotel where I grabbed a bite to eat and got ready before heading back down the Royal Mile to meet another guide to take me on a Haunted Graveyard and Underground Vaults Tour.