I Finally Learned to Paddleboard

Ever since I first watched my sister paddleboarding on lakes in the Rocky Mountains of Alberta, I wanted to try it.  It was only this summer that I finally got that chance.  

I from many people that it was super hard but I knew I wouldn't find it as hard as most people who try it for the first time because I have experience surfing and kayaking. 

I wasn't ready to go out and buy a paddleboard without knowing if it was something I wanted to do or not so when I overheard some people at work talking about lessons at the Mira Provincial Park, I had to learn more. 

Long story short, I signed up for a lesson, headed out to Mira after work one fine evening in July, learned the basics before paddleboarding for an hour on the Mira River and fell in love!  With paddleboarding that is.  While I love surfing and kayaking, by the end of the summer, I realized that I actually like paddleboarding even more! 

I left work and drove to Mira almost every Thursday evening to hone my paddling skills. I surprised myself and was able to stand up on the board the very first night, but not for long.  By the end of the summer, I was an old pro, paddling out further and further each time and getting strong and more stable on the board.  On the last night, I stood up on the board the entire lesson!

Most evenings were calm on the water but there was one that stood out from the rest for being particularly windy and choppy.  I didn't have any difficulty paddling out but coming back was another story!  No matter how much I paddled, I just couldn't get the board to turn around to head back to shore.  I just kept drifting out toward the island.  The instructor yelled directions to me to try but nothing worked and eventually, I had to be towed in.  Let me tell you, I got quite the workout that evening!  I was exhausted when I got to shore but was glad to have gotten a lesson in what can happen when high winds come up!

I think it's pretty safe to say that I will be attending these lessons next summer too if they're offered.  Or maybe I will just go out and buy a board of my own!

My First Attempt at Surfing...and Overcoming my Fear of Sharks and Undertows

I have to admit, I was a little scared to try surfing for the first time. Some of the other guests at Anamaya had tried it out the day before and they all came back with stories of being tossed around in large waves and the bruises they proudly showed off that evening at dinner said it all. I am only 5 feet tall, weigh just over 100 pounds and I bruise very easily. The water was rougher than usual the day they went and they were calling for even rougher surf for my first attempt. I put on my brave face and stood up to the challenge. Besides, if ziplining, jumping off waterfalls, hiking up a steep hill in 40+ degrees in mid-afternoon and walking around at night in the rainforest didn’t kill me, I was pretty sure surfing wouldn’t do me in. How hard could it be anyway? I have always wanted to try surfing. I heard the stories from surfers about the rush you get when you see that wave coming towards you and how peaceful it is to just let it take you.

A shuttle arrived around noon to pick me up and take me to Playa Grande on the outskirts of Montezuma. I assumed the shuttle would drop me off at the beach and I would just get out, grab a surfboard and commence my lesson. My guide neglected to inform me that there was a 45-minute hike involved and it was very hot out. After spending a good amount of time applying that dreadful SPF 60 and changing out of my flip flops into more comfortable walking sandals, we set out towards Playa Grande.

The walk to the surfing area was spectacular. A well-beaten trail along rocky coastline and sandy beaches that were literally deserted, making for a very serene backdrop almost like something you would see in one of those movies about passengers being stranded on a deserted island after their ship is wrecked at sea.

Playa Grande was a sight to behold with its soft sand and surfboards lined up waiting for someone to claim them and bring them to their calling beyond the breakwater and waves…massive waves. After a very quick lesson on how to hold the board, how to get the board past the breakwater and how to stand on the board, I was ready to try my first attempt ever at surfing...once I tossed aside thoughts of shark attacks and strong currents sweeping me out to sea. Initially, it did not go well. Trying to get a surfboard through very rough breakwater is not as easy as it looks. With each and every wave that broke around me, I lost my grip on the board and was sent careening through the surf, banging every limb off the ocean floor while the board flew dangerously in all directions, threatening to knock me unconscious. It was wipe out after wipe out for the first hour or more. I swallowed so much sea water that I actually got sick to my stomach but I was determined not to give up; I was determined that I would make it to where those big waves were cresting and catch one wave back to shore.

I eventually made it past the breakwater and was greeted by cheers from my instructor and some other more seasoned surfers. I continued to be battered and beaten by the waves but managed to climb on the board, get into position and catch one. But stand up and ride it into shore I did not. I remained on my belly until the board shifted sideways and I was tossed into the surf to acquire more cuts and bruises. Once again, I fought my way back through the breakwater to repeat this torturous routine over and over again until finally, I positioned myself on the board before a massive oncoming wave, looked straight ahead, waited for my instructor’s signal and finally managed to stand on the board and let that wave take me all the way back to shore! And it was amazing. I will never forget the feeling for as long as I lie. That feeling that pro surfers are always talking about. That feeling that keeps surfing enthusiasts going back to the sea in search of that adrenaline rush that one can only feel when they become one with the unforgiving sea.

Sunburned, beaten and bruised, I fought to stay awake through dinner back at Anamaya and than crashed immediately after. I had never been so tired in my life! Who knew surfing could be so exhausting? I knew one thing; I fell in love with the sea all over again that day. I conquered my fear of those massive waves and forced myself to push through when it looked like there was no hope in me ever catching a wave and now I know what all the fuss is about!

The Perfect Smoothie and the True Meaning of Pura Vida

By this point, you may be wondering many things about Costa Rica including how big is Costa Rica, where is Costa Rica and what language is spoken in Costa Rica. Well, Costa Rica is fairly small, it's located in Central America between Nicaragua and Panama and Spanish is the official language. If you are wondering where to stay in Costa Rica, by this point in my trip, I would definitely recommend Montezuma.  If it ever crossed your mind to visit Costa Rica, I'm sure you're familiar with what is Costa Rica known for...and Montezuma has it all.  Rainforest, nature, yoga, surfing, spectacular coastline, beautiful sunsets, delicious food, vibrant culture.  It's all here.  

By my fourth day in Montezuma, it felt like I had been there forever. My job and daily chores back home didn’t even cross my mind since I arrived. I forgot I even had a job to go back to. Sadly, my cat, Captain Jack, who I left behind with a friend, had probably stopped eating and was hiding underneath the covers in my bed like he usually does when I go away (he has severe separation anxiety due to an unfortunate event that occurred a few years ago when I had to leave him behind with a friend for almost a year) while I had forgotten I had a cat back home. This particular morning had me thinking about my life back in Cape Breton long enough to make a few phone calls to let everyone know I was still alive and to make sure my cat was at least responding to the occasional Temptations treat.

There wasn’t much going on at Anamaya that day and I didn’t want to just spend the day by the pool so I took an early morning walk into town and spent the day exploring the little streets and enjoying the beach. It was probably the hottest day in Montezuma since I arrived and the walk down that hill was torture. I made it half way down and a young man on a motorbike stopped to ask me if I wanted a ride. I don’t usually take rides alone with strangers but there were people everywhere and there were only two places he could take me; back to Anamaya or into the town of Montezuma. I honestly didn’t think I was going to make it any further without collapsing right there and than in the sun so I took him up on his offer and a few minutes later, I was dropped off at the beach and with a wave and a friendly “Buenos Dias”, he sped off in the original direction he was headed.

Since I was practically on the beach already, I plopped myself down in the sand in a shaded area and relaxed. A storm had passed near Montezuma the previous night and the water was very rough. I attempted to go for a swim but the waves were just too powerful and the undertow too dangerous. Some brave surfers had managed to get past the rough breakwater and were trying to catch some big waves dangerously close to some jagged rocks. I thought this was incredibly stupid but they seemed to know what they were doing and provided me with some entertainment for the afternoon.

By late-morning, the heat was really getting to me and I was starting to feel dehydrated. I wanted a refreshing fruit smoothie but didn’t want to pay 7 dollars for it. So off I went, up and down those little streets, in search of a reasonable priced smoothie. Tucked away in the shade under some trees at the end of one of the main roads heading back towards Anamaya, I noticed an interestingly decorated, outdoor smoothie bar. A free-spirited and friendly young man was eager to take on the challenge of making me up something not-too-sweet and refreshing. It seemed like it took forever for him to make it as he carefully thought out each and every ingredient he put into it and made sure it was mixed to perfection by even allowing me to taste it at various points to see if it was mixed enough. For the small price of 3 dollars, I received a delicious green-colored smoothie (I can’t remember exactly what was in it but I do remember something about Ginger) in a massive glass. I stayed at the bar, took a seat and struck up a lively and very interesting conversation with the young man behind the counter. He obviously loved his life in Montezuma and at one point, he asked if I knew what “Pura Vida” meant. Hmmm, I thought. What does pura vida mean? To me it meant The Pure Life and it was what I had witnessed over and over and over again while traveling through the country. Natural, untouched, simple and pure. “That is how most people interpret it. You see, pura vida can be a greeting, a state of mind, a way of life. You meet someone walking down the street, you say “pura vida”. You catch the perfect wave while surfing, you say “pura vida”. You have a wonderful day, instead of saying “goodnight”, you say “pura vida”. You find a great smoothie bar while walking the streets of Montezuma, you say “pura vida”. It can mean anything but always something good. Anytime something good happens, “pura vida” is the appropriate thing to say”. Made sense to me. How can you not be living the “pura vida” in a country that is considered to be one of the happiest in the world according the Happy Planet Index. Costa Ricans live longer and better lives than people living in other countries of similar economic conditions, Costa Rica is one of the greenest countries in the world and who wouldn’t be living the pure life when they wake up each morning to beautiful, sandy beaches, pristine and untouched rainforest, spectacular scenery and an abundance of things to see and do.

It was mid-afternoon by the time I finished walking the streets of Montezuma and since I wasn’t feeling overly tired, I stupidly walked up that steep hill to Anamya instead of getting a cab. It was quite the workout but I did make it to the top without collapsing in the ditch…barely. There was still enough daylight left to take a walk to Montezuma Falls again and attempt that jump. I was kicking myself for not doing it the day before and had since been contemplating going back so I could say I did it. I changed into my contact lenses and made my way to the path that led to the falls from Anamaya. It was a steep and difficult hike down and all I could think about when I got to the top of the falls was how refreshing the water below looked. It didn’t take much coaxing for me to perch myself at the edge and take that leap 15 feet to the fresheater pool below. And, yes, it was very refreshing and I felt proud of myself for coming back. If there is one thing I absolutely hate, it is missed opportunity. I take every chance that comes my way because, sometimes, you only get one chance to do something and that opportunity never arises again!

Anamaya was once again quiet with everyone out shopping and doing their own thing. I loved how peaceful it was when no one was around and it made me think about how it would be the perfect place to be a writer although I might not get much done with the beach only a short walk away. Bedtime came early again. The next morning, I was trying surfing for the first time and I wanted to be well-rested for that! 

Pura Vida Meaning - The Pure Life. And yes....that's exactly what you'll experience in Montezuma, Costa Rica. 

The Search for Colones, Gelato and the Perfect Smoothie

On a map of Costa Rica, Montezuma is the little coastal village situated at the bottom of the Nicoya Peninsula in Northwestern Costa Rica.  My first full day in Montezuma Costa Rica was off to a great start as early-morning rises usually mean a long, productive day ahead. At 5:00AM, I awoke to the first rays of sunshine coming into my room. I grabbed my book and retreated to the balcony so I could enjoy some quality reading time in the peace and quiet of the early morning before everyone else woke up. I love early mornings anyway but this was the kind of place that could make even the latest sleeper want to get up and enjoy the day!

At around 6:30 I went downstairs to have a quick swim before fruit was served and yoga class began. I was surprised by how many people were already there. I’m not used to being around many people back home who love mornings as much as I do! At 7:00, a large bowl of mixed fruit was presented in the main dining area. I never really gave papaya and pineapple much thought in the past, but after spending two weeks in Costa Rica and eating almost nothing but those two fruit, I can’t leave the grocery store without buying one or the other!

I was looking forward to my first Yoga class of the week because it had been a while since I had done it and I enjoyed it. However, the long flights, long days of overland travel and change in time zones had done a number on me and these classes were a little more advanced than I was used to. I suffered through the pain and soaring morning heat for the entire class – an hour and a half - and then collapsed into the pool and remained there, barely able to move, for the rest of the morning. Breakfast was served immediately after, but the heat and exhaustion had taken my appetite.

After lunch, I was feeling better and my energy levels returned to normal so that I could hike down the hill to Montezuma Costa Rica, do a bit of sightseeing, shopping and sunbathing on the beach and walk back up the hill in time for dinner. Going down wasn’t too bad but the mid-day heat was pushing 40 degrees Celsius and I knew there was no way I would be walking back up that steep hill to Anamaya unless someone was carrying me.

Montezuma Costa Rica was once a small fishing village and is now a small and widely popular surfing destination. One can see immediately that the town’s vendors and shops mostly cater to a certain demographic; surfers, yoga enthusiasts and beach lovers. Jewelry made from rocks and seashells, clothing made specifically for surfing and practicing yoga, swimsuits of all sorts, surf boards and related equipment and souvenirs made with treasures found along the shore fill a dozen or so small shops along the main streets of the village.

Before I left Canada, I called my hotel in San Jose to verify that I was able to exchange my Canadian dollars for Costa Rican Colones. I heard it was best to exchange Canadian dollars for American dollars before arriving because American dollars were more widely exchangeable. However, the front desk clerk at my hotel confirmed that I could bring Canadian dollars and exchange them right there at their front desk. There must have been a misunderstanding because when I tried to do this, I was told that Canadian dollars couldn’t be exchanged. I was stuck using my credit card and the few American dollars I had on me during my time in San Jose. This meant I was being charged fees on my credit card and a lot of places only accepted cash so the first thing I tried to do in Montezuma was find someone to exchange my Canadian dollars. The bank was in a nearby town that required me to hop on a bus so I saved that option as a last resort. I went into every store and restaurant and asked if anyone knew where I could do the exchange. After asking more than a dozen people, I was told that the Super Mamatea (which was a small supermarket that sold food and other basics) might be able to help me. I walked across the street to the store and was distracted by the display of hats at the front. I forgot my sunhat at home and I desperately needed one to avoid a repeat of the almost fatal heat-exhaustion episode I had two years earlier in Mexico. The price was right except I didn’t have enough cash on me at that time. The cashier told me he could exchange my money but I would have to come back in an hour to do so.

So off I went with only a few dollars to my name. An Ice Cream and Gelato shop sandwiched between a couple of shops across the street caught my eye. Ice Dream was small, bright and cheery and most importantly, air-conditioned! The display case was filled with various flavors of homemade Italian ice cream and because I ordered the two-scoop serving, I was able to choose two flavors and you can’t go wrong a mixture of chocolate and peanut butter! The woman who served me was very friendly and started a lively conversation with me about how the shop came to be and how she came to be in Montezuma. She explained that she had arrived a few years earlier from France, loved the place and the lifestyle and settled. This was a story I heard many times during my travels throughout Costa Rica; It seems the laid-back, easy-going, carefree life near the beach locked many visitors in for good. It crossed my mind several times during my trip that maybe this was a lifestyle that I too could get used to.

I still had some time to kill before going back to exchange my money, so I walked around the entire village. The carefree lifestyle that the people enjoyed here was evident everywhere. Shops were open but workers were sitting outside waiting for customers, enjoying the sun and talking to passerby instead of remaining behind the counter. The ones who had the day off were sitting on patios enjoying a cold smoothie, laying on the beach or heading to where the surf was best that day with their surfboards to catch some waves. There was an elementary school located right on the beach and I envied the children playing soccer in the sand during recess. Even friendly dogs roamed free without leashes and without a care in the world. Everyone seemed to embrace a healthy, active lifestyle in Montezuma. All of the restaurants I saw had signs advertising organic meals with natural ingredients and smoothies of every concoction imaginable. I also noted that there was only one bar in the town and no one was drunk or rowdy like in the bars here at home. If you live in paradise, I guess there is no need to drown your sorrows in a half dozen pints! This was the “Pura Vida” I had read about on the internet while doing research about my trip. The pure life…

The most common modes of transportation I saw were Land Rovers and ATVs. I guessed that this must be because the only way you can get to some of the best beaches is with either one of these vehicles because some of the roads were too bad for regular cars. I thought about renting an ATV so I could just drive off into the unknown but since I never drove one before, the idea was quickly dismissed. I may have had full coverage on my travel insurance but I didn’t want to spend the rest of the vacation in the hospital.

I returned to the Super Mamatea to finally have my currency exchanged and bought that hat and some sunscreen. Without thinking, I placed the hat on my head and was on my way. I must have been walking around those streets for a good half hour before someone approached me, discreetly informed me that the tag was still on my hat, smiled and went on his way. I don’t often walk around with the tags still on my clothes but if I did do that here at home, I would get funny looks, weird stares and some chuckles before anyone would inform me of my fashion faux pas, if anyone told me at all. But in Montezuma, it was like no one even noticed or cared. The townspeople seemed to just do what they wanted and wear what they wanted, when they wanted without anyone giving a second thought as long as they were not hurting anyone. I was beginning to like this place. I was beginning to like it a lot.

I was dreading the walk up that steep hill back to Anamaya and decided that since I had acquired some cash, a cab would be taking me there. For a mere 6 dollars, it was worth it to avoid the torture of walking up that hill in that extreme heat. But first, I went on a mission to find the best smoothies in town. I noticed The Bar Restaurante Moctezuma was serving smoothies to patrons on the outdoor patio so I walked in and took a seat. There was so much to choose from and I had no idea what to order so I told the waiter to surprise me with something light, refreshing and not too sweet. A few minutes later a green concoction made up of a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables arrived at my table. The drink was really good but the price was not. At a cost of 7 dollars for an average size glass plus tip, I vowed to search for a less expensive option the next time I walked into town.

It was starting to get dark and dinner was being served at Anamaya at 8:30 so I made my way to the taxi stand to get a ride up the hill. I waited a while for one to come before learning that there was a trick to getting a cab in Montezuma. They rarely wait at the taxi stand; you need to walk the streets and find a cab that is empty and just hop in if the driver is present. If he is not present, walk into the nearest business close to where his car is parked and call for him. So that is what I did and a very friendly young man who could speak no English offered to drive me to Anamaya. His first words to me were “hola, te importa si enciendo la música?” And so we made our way up that steep windy road to Anamaya with the music blaring and an English-speaking Canadian and a Spanish-speaking Costa Rican singing at the top of our lungs to George Michael...in perfect English!