The True Meaning of Pura Vida

I opened my inbox one day to find an email with a peculiar subject line. "Congratulations, you have won a trip to Anamaya Yoga Retreat in sunny Costa Rica". I promptly deleted it but a nagging feeling prompted me to retrieve that email and read it again to be sure it was, in fact, just another scam. Four months after I reread that email, I boarded a plane for San Jose, Costa Rica. A long drive through the countryside that led to a ferry that took me across the gulf of Nicoya and onto the small Pacific Coast village of Montezuma was the beginning of an unforgettable journey…one that taught me an important lesson in life and in living it to the fullest.

There wasn’t much going on at Anamaya Yoga Retreat on my 4th day in Montezuma, Costa Rica. I developed a routine of waking early, watching the sunset, reading in the hammock, taking a dip in the infinity pool and checking emails all before breakfast was even served. On this day, I decided to break the routine and do something a little different. I didn’t want to waste the day sitting by the pool so I strolled down the hill into the village and spent the day exploring the little streets and surf shops and enjoying the beach. The village had so much energetic ambiance. Smiling, energetic people of all walks of life, embracing the day and one another. I can still feel that ambiance now if I close my eyes and bring myself back there.
It was the hottest morning in Montezuma since I’d arrived and the walk down the hill was torture. I was only half way down the hill when a young man on a motorbike stopped. “Senorita, I take you to bottom of the hill if you like.” He was wearing a nice shirt and khaki shorts which gave him an air of coolness and confidence - like he often picked up strange women who were about to pass out while walking down that hill. I usually don’t take rides from strangers but I didn’t think I was going to make it any further without collapsing. I took him up on his offer and a few minutes later he dropped me off at the beach. With a wave and a friendly “Buenos dias”, he sped off.

I walked a few feet to the beach and plopped myself down in the sand in a shaded area and relaxed for a bit. A storm had passed near Montezuma the previous night and the water was extremely rough. I tried to go for a swim but the waves were too powerful and the undertow too dangerous. The smell of Cerviche and Empanadas in the restaurant a few meters away filled the air. The sounds of palm trees rustling in the gentle breeze and locals and tourists going about their daily business lulled me. A dog chased a stick nearby while some children egged him on. A stray cat sat near a food cart, waiting for a hand-out. The rhythmic sound of the waves coming ashore, like a lullaby, gently rocked me to sleep.

Shouting zapped me out of my trance to see people on the beach pointing to something in the water; some brave, fool-hardy surfers were attempting to surf dangerously rough waters close to some jagged rocks. It looked like the scene might end in tragedy but, fortunately, the surfers made it safely to shore. Welcome to Costa Rica – home of adventure seekers, lovers of life and daredevils!

By late-morning, the heat was really getting to me and I started to feel dehydrated. I was craving a refreshing fruit smoothie but didn’t want to pay the going rate of about 7 dollars for one at a tourist trap. So off I went, up and down those little streets, in search of a reasonably-priced smoothie. At the end of a side street, I noticed an interestingly-decorated, outdoor smoothie bar. The thatched-roof and colorful plants sprouting from the walls caught my eye. It looked like just my kind of place!

A free-spirited and friendly, young man was eager to take on the challenge of making me something that was refreshing but not-too-sweet. It took a long time for him to make it as he carefully thought out each ingredient and made sure it was mixed to perfection by allowing me to taste it at intervals. After some mixing and shaking and adding of various exotic fruit, some of which I never heard of, he placed his finished masterpiece before me. For the price of 3 dollars, I received a delicious, orange-colored smoothie in a massive glass.

I stayed at the bar and took a seat. “So, are you from around here?” I asked him. “Yes, born and raised in Costa Rica, just down the road a little bit.” He obviously loved his life in Montezuma and at one point, he asked if I knew what "Pura Vida" meant. To me "Pura Vida" meant The Pure Life and it was what I had witnessed over and over again while traveling through the country. Natural, untouched, simple and pure. He went on to explain it in more depth for me. “That is how most people interpret it. You see, 'Pura Vida' can be a greeting, a state of mind, a way of life. You meet someone walking down the street, you say 'Pura Vida'. You catch the perfect wave while surfing, you say 'Pura Vida'. You have a wonderful day, instead of saying goodnight, you say 'Pura Vida'. You find a great smoothie bar while walking the streets of Montezuma, you say 'this is Pura Vida'. It can mean anything but always something good. Anytime something good happens, “Pura Vida” is the appropriate thing to say.” Made sense to me. How can you not be living the “Pura Vida” in a country that is considered to be one of the happiest in the world according to the Happy Planet Index?

It was mid-afternoon when I started walking up that steep hill to Anamaya. I made it to the top without collapsing in the ditch. There was still enough daylight left to hike to Montezuma Falls. I had gone there the day before and chickened out of jumping off the falls into the pool below but now I was determined not to leave Costa Rica without taking that plunge.
The path to the falls was steep and rocky. I stopped to take a rest mid-way down the trail and that is when I became fully aware of my surroundings. The growling of nearby howler monkeys, the buzz of millions of tropical insects, the sound of the distant waves crashing onto the beach below, the trees rustling in the gentle breeze. The rainforest sounded so alive. It was like the forest itself was living and breathing.
I made it to the waterfalls and again, paused to take in the beautiful sight before me. Beautiful, cascading water falling into a crystal clear, blue pool beneath a canopy of thick rainforest. Before I could talk myself out of it again, I took the leap into the clear, refreshing water. If there is one thing I absolutely hate, it is missed opportunity. I take every chance that comes my way because, sometimes, you only get one chance to do something. And to think, if I had not listened to that little voice in my head telling me to read that email again, I would have missed out on the time of my life and would never know what it is like to live the Pura Vida.

A Week at Anamaya Yoga Retreat - Pura Vida at its Best

In November 2012, I opened my Gmail account, like I usually do first thing in the morning, and noticed an email from an unfamiliar address. I wasn’t expecting anything from anyone but this email didn’t look like spam. So I opened it. I read it. It took a while for it to sink in.

I often enter contests on the internet and many of them are travel related. Many of them turn out to be scams and many of them get so many entries that it would be pure luck to be the one chosen to go on an all-expense paid trip. But lo and behold, this official-looking email did have to do with a contest I recently entered and it stated that I had won a trip to Costa Rica. The information in the email sank in, excitement ensued and than doubt set in. There was no way this was true…but it looked so official. Research commenced immediately. I searched for scams dealing with the company hosting the contest. I searched for complaints against the company. I searched for others who had won contests from them in the past. I searched for the retreat I would be staying at for complaints against them. Heck, I even searched for the person who sent the email to see if there was anything sinister being said about them. Nadda. Everything turned up squeaky clean but I was still in doubt. I responded to the email to get more information. Again, everything seemed very official and all the pertinent information was there with no hidden undertones that this was fishy. And they didn’t ask for my credit card number and that told me that this could be the real thing.

So when it was all said and done, I did, in fact, win a trip to Costa Rica and I have already been there and back and believe me, there was nothing sinister about my stay at Anamaya Yoga Retreat in Montezuma. I had an amazing time and this trip provided me with the opportunity to do something else while I was there; I took an extra week, on my own time and expense, to explore a country that is said to be among the most beautiful in the world.

I left Halifax airport in late April during a snowstorm and made the almost 24-hour journey to San Jose, Costa Rica. No, it does not usually take that long to get there if you are picky with flights but I’m not picky so I chose the longest route with hopes of seeing a city I had never visited before, Houston Texas. I had a 12-hour layover in the city and lets just say my plans to go explore the city didn’t work out well and my failed attempt at making the most out of a layover resulted in me nearly starving to death (everything was closed the entire time I was in the airport), sleeping on a very uncomfortable bench in a noisy area and being bored out of my mind. Unfortunately, I booked the same route home and had to repeat this entire process all over again two weeks later. I arrived in San Jose to the sun splitting rocks. When I had checked the forecast before leaving home, I was disappointed to see that the entire week called for rain in that area of Costa Rica. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky that day and I don’t think I saw a cloud or raindrop the entire time I was there and the temperatures remained very hot the entire time. That was just the beginning of my good luck on that trip. The beginning of the adventure started the next morning when I checked out of my hotel and boarded a shuttle to Montezuma and Anamaya Yoga Retreat.

After a long drive and long ferry ride to get to the Nicoya Peninsula, Montezuma soon appeared. Anamaya was located on a hill above the village. A very steep hill that is not fun to walk up in the searing mid-day heat, so I learned on my first excursion into town. I had no idea what to expect before I arrived at Anamaya but what I was met with far exceeded my expectations from the get-go. I arrived around noon and was greeted by a very friendly staff member who led me to the pool area where I could wait and meet the other guests I would be staying with me over the course of the week. That was one of the best things about Anamaya; there wouldn’t be busloads of new recruits coming in every day, it would be the same twenty-something people from all over the world staying there together for a whole week. No one leaving, no one coming in. With a welcome cocktail in hand, I made myself at home around the infinity pool and introduced myself to the people who were already there waiting. The first thing that caught my attention was the view. It was one of the most spectacular views I had ever seen. The Pacific Ocean lined with miles of rocky and mountainous coastline and the infinity pool strategically laid out in a way to allow bathers to relax in the saltwater pool while taking in that sight. I just couldn’t wait any longer to experience that for myself and the heat was enough to make one want to jump into any body of water that presented itself. How could I not want to jump right in and stay there for the rest of the afternoon? And that is what I did. Others followed and soon we were all relaxing in that pool, a group of people, each from a different part of the world, who just met a few minutes earlier, sharing our first of many wonderful experiences that transpired that week. By that time, I knew the place was special and I was about to have a week-long experience that I will never forget as long as I live. If you have ever seen the movies "The Beach" and "Eat, Pray, Love", than you have an idea what my time in Montezuma was like if you take the main points of both of those movies and combine them.

After our little meet and greet/swim, registration and receiving the keys to our rooms, we went off in various directions with a request from staff to meet in the common area in an hour for the official run-down of our week at Anamaya. There were various buildings around the grounds that housed themed rooms but mine was located on the top floor of the main house. I knew I was staying in the cheaper accommodations because I had won the trip but my room was incredible in every way possible. My roommates had not arrived yet so I had first pick at a bed. Of course, I chose the one that faced the glass patio doors that overlooked that view of the pacific ocean. Imagining the sunrise the next morning was instant motivation to wake up at the crack of dawn. I did, however, find one problem with the room; geckos. Not that I have a problem with geckos. They are the cutest little things that stick themselves wherever they please and don’t really bother anyone…except when they show up in weird place like right above your bed, in your bed, or in your luggage. They were even on the walls of my closet and, out of fear of accidentally bringing one of the tropical creatures back to not-so-tropical Canada, I made sure to keep my luggage closed tightly.

I felt immediately at home at Anamaya. There was just something about the atmosphere of the place. It was so happy and positive and inviting. Maybe the surrounding scenery, the smell of fresh ocean air the sound of waves crashing of the rocks below us had a lot to do with it. Whatever it was, I instantly liked the place and when dinner arrived, I liked it even more.

During my first evening at Anamaya, I discovered that dinner was an elaborate, social event at the retreat. I entered the dining area and was met by dim lighting and candlelight, elegantly set tables and light music to set a relaxing ambiance. More than twenty people who had just met a couple of hours before took their places and instantly started the process of learning more about each other. What choice did we have in such an intimate setting? By the end of the night, it was like we had known each other all our lives.

Then there was the food. I don’t know how to describe it except to say that the seven dinners I had at Anamaya rank in the top ten dinners I’ve had over the course of my life so far. There were four courses every night – soup, appetizers, main course and dessert. All the food was made right there at Anamaya by local chefs, all the food was organic and some of it was even grown nearby, all meals were healthy and I had the choice to request all vegetarian meals for the entire week. Alcoholic drinks were not served at Anamaya except for the last night but we were permitted to purchase our own at the supermarket in town. That was fine with me as there is nothing worse than a vacation spent listening to drama, fighting and stupidity caused by over-drinking, not to mention wasting half of it in a drunken stupor and the other half with a hangover. I was completely fine with there being no alcohol except for the occasional bottle of red wine bought in town to be shared between everyone while winding down before bed.

The first morning at Anamaya started off with me waking up at ten to five (without the help of an alarm clock) just as the first rays of the sun were beginning to appear on the horizon. I walked the few feet to the balcony and quietly took my place with the geckos and strange-looking tropical bugs (that may or may not have been poisonous) and watched it come up over the Pacific Ocean and shed light on the surrounding mountains. Our first yoga class started at 8:00 but I tiptoed downstairs quietly only to discover that almost everyone was already awake and eating the fresh fruit that was served a few minutes earlier. Since returning from that trip, my main staples at the grocery store have been pineapple and papaya, two fruits I had never taken much of an interest in until I went to Costa Rica. There was still a little more than an hour until yoga, plenty of time to send a few emails home and take a quick swim in that luxurious infinity pool.

I understand yoga. I know how beneficial it is to both mind and body. I have even tried a few beginner classes in the past and sometimes practiced the basics at home. I soon learned that the people who actually booked and paid for their vacation at Anamaya came for the yoga. It was a yoga retreat after all. For some reason, that connection didn’t click with me until that morning and I just assumed the classes would be for beginners. Well, this was not the case and let’s just say my first advanced yoga class was an epic fail in so many ways. Trying to keep up with those guys with all the bending in ways I didn’t even think were possible in that 40 degree heat equaled me, semi-conscious in the pool suffering from pain and near heat exhaustion. I didn’t attend anymore yoga classes for the rest of the week.

I missed the delicious-looking breakfast that was served right after yoga because I had zero appetite. By mid-afternoon I was feeling well enough to finally get out of the pool, get a shower and make myself look presentable to go into town for a bit. Presentable enough I should say. No amount of product or straightening would tame my usually straight hair in that heat and humidity. I was a bit worried about the heat by that time and thought about my disastrous past experiences with heat exhaustion in hot climates and that was when I realized I had left my hat at home. First on my list when I got to Montezuma? Buy a new hat and stronger sunscreen. Since I was in a beach/surf town, finding both items was pretty easy and with SPF 75 (I didn’t even know they made the stuff that strong!), I wouldn’t have to worry about getting sunburned.

And so it went like this for the next week. Early wake-up, fruit, breakfast, swim, lunch, go into town, return for dinner and relaxing in the common area…just minus the Yoga. I decided I was not advanced enough for the classes and exerting myself in that heat would be too risky. When my final day at Anamaya arrived, I regretted not jumping into it because I heard everyone else talking about how great they felt. I guess I will forever go down in Anamaya history as the “rebel” who played hooky during Yoga class and went to the beach instead. But I did take something to do with yoga home with me; a new found interest in it and the desire to learn more and even enroll myself in a beginner class this winter.

Although it sounds like every day at Anamaya was the same, nothing could be further from the truth. Yes, parts of the day were structured but no one was obligated to take part in any of the activities. However, most of us took part because the atmosphere was so relaxed and everyone became so close that we enjoyed doing things together. Every day saw a new and exciting activity. One day it was surfing lessons, another day was ziplining and the last day was a mini road trip to another nearby town to have a bonfire and drinks on the beach. If all all-inclusive vacations were like the ones at Anamaya, I wouldn’t mind them so much. I had free-will to do whatever I wanted at all times while still having scheduled and planned activities available if I wanted them. No one tried to talk me out of wandering into town, no one tried to scare me into thinking it was too dangerous to wander around alone and no one tried to sell me any tours or try to persuade me to participate in a planned activity. I felt free at Anamaya. Free to think how I wanted, free to express my opinions, free to do what I wanted and…just free in general. This is a feeling I am not used to back home in Canada. I often feel judged by others who loathe my sense of adventure, my “flighty” (as they call it) attitude that sees me embarking on many adventures and never turning down an opportunity to do something new, my minimalist lifestyle and preference to gather experiences rather than material things and my hatred towards television. At home, many people think of me as weird or abnormal…an outcast. But in Costa Rica, I met so many people like me. People who love life and want to fill it with as many experiences as possible. People who gave up all their material possessions to live in peace and harmony on a beach in Costa Rica. In fact, that sense of freedom was felt everywhere in the country. The people are so happy and their top priority is living life to the fullest and not letting negativity or fear get in the way of that. You can be whoever you want to be in Costa Rica and no one judges you. I guess that is where the Costa Rican saying “Pura Vida” comes from. The Pure Life.

The Perfect Smoothie and the True Meaning of Pura Vida

By this point, you may be wondering many things about Costa Rica including how big is Costa Rica, where is Costa Rica and what language is spoken in Costa Rica. Well, Costa Rica is fairly small, it's located in Central America between Nicaragua and Panama and Spanish is the official language. If you are wondering where to stay in Costa Rica, by this point in my trip, I would definitely recommend Montezuma.  If it ever crossed your mind to visit Costa Rica, I'm sure you're familiar with what is Costa Rica known for...and Montezuma has it all.  Rainforest, nature, yoga, surfing, spectacular coastline, beautiful sunsets, delicious food, vibrant culture.  It's all here.  

By my fourth day in Montezuma, it felt like I had been there forever. My job and daily chores back home didn’t even cross my mind since I arrived. I forgot I even had a job to go back to. Sadly, my cat, Captain Jack, who I left behind with a friend, had probably stopped eating and was hiding underneath the covers in my bed like he usually does when I go away (he has severe separation anxiety due to an unfortunate event that occurred a few years ago when I had to leave him behind with a friend for almost a year) while I had forgotten I had a cat back home. This particular morning had me thinking about my life back in Cape Breton long enough to make a few phone calls to let everyone know I was still alive and to make sure my cat was at least responding to the occasional Temptations treat.

There wasn’t much going on at Anamaya that day and I didn’t want to just spend the day by the pool so I took an early morning walk into town and spent the day exploring the little streets and enjoying the beach. It was probably the hottest day in Montezuma since I arrived and the walk down that hill was torture. I made it half way down and a young man on a motorbike stopped to ask me if I wanted a ride. I don’t usually take rides alone with strangers but there were people everywhere and there were only two places he could take me; back to Anamaya or into the town of Montezuma. I honestly didn’t think I was going to make it any further without collapsing right there and than in the sun so I took him up on his offer and a few minutes later, I was dropped off at the beach and with a wave and a friendly “Buenos Dias”, he sped off in the original direction he was headed.

Since I was practically on the beach already, I plopped myself down in the sand in a shaded area and relaxed. A storm had passed near Montezuma the previous night and the water was very rough. I attempted to go for a swim but the waves were just too powerful and the undertow too dangerous. Some brave surfers had managed to get past the rough breakwater and were trying to catch some big waves dangerously close to some jagged rocks. I thought this was incredibly stupid but they seemed to know what they were doing and provided me with some entertainment for the afternoon.

By late-morning, the heat was really getting to me and I was starting to feel dehydrated. I wanted a refreshing fruit smoothie but didn’t want to pay 7 dollars for it. So off I went, up and down those little streets, in search of a reasonable priced smoothie. Tucked away in the shade under some trees at the end of one of the main roads heading back towards Anamaya, I noticed an interestingly decorated, outdoor smoothie bar. A free-spirited and friendly young man was eager to take on the challenge of making me up something not-too-sweet and refreshing. It seemed like it took forever for him to make it as he carefully thought out each and every ingredient he put into it and made sure it was mixed to perfection by even allowing me to taste it at various points to see if it was mixed enough. For the small price of 3 dollars, I received a delicious green-colored smoothie (I can’t remember exactly what was in it but I do remember something about Ginger) in a massive glass. I stayed at the bar, took a seat and struck up a lively and very interesting conversation with the young man behind the counter. He obviously loved his life in Montezuma and at one point, he asked if I knew what “Pura Vida” meant. Hmmm, I thought. What does pura vida mean? To me it meant The Pure Life and it was what I had witnessed over and over and over again while traveling through the country. Natural, untouched, simple and pure. “That is how most people interpret it. You see, pura vida can be a greeting, a state of mind, a way of life. You meet someone walking down the street, you say “pura vida”. You catch the perfect wave while surfing, you say “pura vida”. You have a wonderful day, instead of saying “goodnight”, you say “pura vida”. You find a great smoothie bar while walking the streets of Montezuma, you say “pura vida”. It can mean anything but always something good. Anytime something good happens, “pura vida” is the appropriate thing to say”. Made sense to me. How can you not be living the “pura vida” in a country that is considered to be one of the happiest in the world according the Happy Planet Index. Costa Ricans live longer and better lives than people living in other countries of similar economic conditions, Costa Rica is one of the greenest countries in the world and who wouldn’t be living the pure life when they wake up each morning to beautiful, sandy beaches, pristine and untouched rainforest, spectacular scenery and an abundance of things to see and do.

It was mid-afternoon by the time I finished walking the streets of Montezuma and since I wasn’t feeling overly tired, I stupidly walked up that steep hill to Anamya instead of getting a cab. It was quite the workout but I did make it to the top without collapsing in the ditch…barely. There was still enough daylight left to take a walk to Montezuma Falls again and attempt that jump. I was kicking myself for not doing it the day before and had since been contemplating going back so I could say I did it. I changed into my contact lenses and made my way to the path that led to the falls from Anamaya. It was a steep and difficult hike down and all I could think about when I got to the top of the falls was how refreshing the water below looked. It didn’t take much coaxing for me to perch myself at the edge and take that leap 15 feet to the fresheater pool below. And, yes, it was very refreshing and I felt proud of myself for coming back. If there is one thing I absolutely hate, it is missed opportunity. I take every chance that comes my way because, sometimes, you only get one chance to do something and that opportunity never arises again!

Anamaya was once again quiet with everyone out shopping and doing their own thing. I loved how peaceful it was when no one was around and it made me think about how it would be the perfect place to be a writer although I might not get much done with the beach only a short walk away. Bedtime came early again. The next morning, I was trying surfing for the first time and I wanted to be well-rested for that! 

Pura Vida Meaning - The Pure Life. And yes....that's exactly what you'll experience in Montezuma, Costa Rica. 

The Search for Colones, Gelato and the Perfect Smoothie

On a map of Costa Rica, Montezuma is the little coastal village situated at the bottom of the Nicoya Peninsula in Northwestern Costa Rica.  My first full day in Montezuma Costa Rica was off to a great start as early-morning rises usually mean a long, productive day ahead. At 5:00AM, I awoke to the first rays of sunshine coming into my room. I grabbed my book and retreated to the balcony so I could enjoy some quality reading time in the peace and quiet of the early morning before everyone else woke up. I love early mornings anyway but this was the kind of place that could make even the latest sleeper want to get up and enjoy the day!

At around 6:30 I went downstairs to have a quick swim before fruit was served and yoga class began. I was surprised by how many people were already there. I’m not used to being around many people back home who love mornings as much as I do! At 7:00, a large bowl of mixed fruit was presented in the main dining area. I never really gave papaya and pineapple much thought in the past, but after spending two weeks in Costa Rica and eating almost nothing but those two fruit, I can’t leave the grocery store without buying one or the other!

I was looking forward to my first Yoga class of the week because it had been a while since I had done it and I enjoyed it. However, the long flights, long days of overland travel and change in time zones had done a number on me and these classes were a little more advanced than I was used to. I suffered through the pain and soaring morning heat for the entire class – an hour and a half - and then collapsed into the pool and remained there, barely able to move, for the rest of the morning. Breakfast was served immediately after, but the heat and exhaustion had taken my appetite.

After lunch, I was feeling better and my energy levels returned to normal so that I could hike down the hill to Montezuma Costa Rica, do a bit of sightseeing, shopping and sunbathing on the beach and walk back up the hill in time for dinner. Going down wasn’t too bad but the mid-day heat was pushing 40 degrees Celsius and I knew there was no way I would be walking back up that steep hill to Anamaya unless someone was carrying me.

Montezuma Costa Rica was once a small fishing village and is now a small and widely popular surfing destination. One can see immediately that the town’s vendors and shops mostly cater to a certain demographic; surfers, yoga enthusiasts and beach lovers. Jewelry made from rocks and seashells, clothing made specifically for surfing and practicing yoga, swimsuits of all sorts, surf boards and related equipment and souvenirs made with treasures found along the shore fill a dozen or so small shops along the main streets of the village.

Before I left Canada, I called my hotel in San Jose to verify that I was able to exchange my Canadian dollars for Costa Rican Colones. I heard it was best to exchange Canadian dollars for American dollars before arriving because American dollars were more widely exchangeable. However, the front desk clerk at my hotel confirmed that I could bring Canadian dollars and exchange them right there at their front desk. There must have been a misunderstanding because when I tried to do this, I was told that Canadian dollars couldn’t be exchanged. I was stuck using my credit card and the few American dollars I had on me during my time in San Jose. This meant I was being charged fees on my credit card and a lot of places only accepted cash so the first thing I tried to do in Montezuma was find someone to exchange my Canadian dollars. The bank was in a nearby town that required me to hop on a bus so I saved that option as a last resort. I went into every store and restaurant and asked if anyone knew where I could do the exchange. After asking more than a dozen people, I was told that the Super Mamatea (which was a small supermarket that sold food and other basics) might be able to help me. I walked across the street to the store and was distracted by the display of hats at the front. I forgot my sunhat at home and I desperately needed one to avoid a repeat of the almost fatal heat-exhaustion episode I had two years earlier in Mexico. The price was right except I didn’t have enough cash on me at that time. The cashier told me he could exchange my money but I would have to come back in an hour to do so.

So off I went with only a few dollars to my name. An Ice Cream and Gelato shop sandwiched between a couple of shops across the street caught my eye. Ice Dream was small, bright and cheery and most importantly, air-conditioned! The display case was filled with various flavors of homemade Italian ice cream and because I ordered the two-scoop serving, I was able to choose two flavors and you can’t go wrong a mixture of chocolate and peanut butter! The woman who served me was very friendly and started a lively conversation with me about how the shop came to be and how she came to be in Montezuma. She explained that she had arrived a few years earlier from France, loved the place and the lifestyle and settled. This was a story I heard many times during my travels throughout Costa Rica; It seems the laid-back, easy-going, carefree life near the beach locked many visitors in for good. It crossed my mind several times during my trip that maybe this was a lifestyle that I too could get used to.

I still had some time to kill before going back to exchange my money, so I walked around the entire village. The carefree lifestyle that the people enjoyed here was evident everywhere. Shops were open but workers were sitting outside waiting for customers, enjoying the sun and talking to passerby instead of remaining behind the counter. The ones who had the day off were sitting on patios enjoying a cold smoothie, laying on the beach or heading to where the surf was best that day with their surfboards to catch some waves. There was an elementary school located right on the beach and I envied the children playing soccer in the sand during recess. Even friendly dogs roamed free without leashes and without a care in the world. Everyone seemed to embrace a healthy, active lifestyle in Montezuma. All of the restaurants I saw had signs advertising organic meals with natural ingredients and smoothies of every concoction imaginable. I also noted that there was only one bar in the town and no one was drunk or rowdy like in the bars here at home. If you live in paradise, I guess there is no need to drown your sorrows in a half dozen pints! This was the “Pura Vida” I had read about on the internet while doing research about my trip. The pure life…

The most common modes of transportation I saw were Land Rovers and ATVs. I guessed that this must be because the only way you can get to some of the best beaches is with either one of these vehicles because some of the roads were too bad for regular cars. I thought about renting an ATV so I could just drive off into the unknown but since I never drove one before, the idea was quickly dismissed. I may have had full coverage on my travel insurance but I didn’t want to spend the rest of the vacation in the hospital.

I returned to the Super Mamatea to finally have my currency exchanged and bought that hat and some sunscreen. Without thinking, I placed the hat on my head and was on my way. I must have been walking around those streets for a good half hour before someone approached me, discreetly informed me that the tag was still on my hat, smiled and went on his way. I don’t often walk around with the tags still on my clothes but if I did do that here at home, I would get funny looks, weird stares and some chuckles before anyone would inform me of my fashion faux pas, if anyone told me at all. But in Montezuma, it was like no one even noticed or cared. The townspeople seemed to just do what they wanted and wear what they wanted, when they wanted without anyone giving a second thought as long as they were not hurting anyone. I was beginning to like this place. I was beginning to like it a lot.

I was dreading the walk up that steep hill back to Anamaya and decided that since I had acquired some cash, a cab would be taking me there. For a mere 6 dollars, it was worth it to avoid the torture of walking up that hill in that extreme heat. But first, I went on a mission to find the best smoothies in town. I noticed The Bar Restaurante Moctezuma was serving smoothies to patrons on the outdoor patio so I walked in and took a seat. There was so much to choose from and I had no idea what to order so I told the waiter to surprise me with something light, refreshing and not too sweet. A few minutes later a green concoction made up of a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables arrived at my table. The drink was really good but the price was not. At a cost of 7 dollars for an average size glass plus tip, I vowed to search for a less expensive option the next time I walked into town.

It was starting to get dark and dinner was being served at Anamaya at 8:30 so I made my way to the taxi stand to get a ride up the hill. I waited a while for one to come before learning that there was a trick to getting a cab in Montezuma. They rarely wait at the taxi stand; you need to walk the streets and find a cab that is empty and just hop in if the driver is present. If he is not present, walk into the nearest business close to where his car is parked and call for him. So that is what I did and a very friendly young man who could speak no English offered to drive me to Anamaya. His first words to me were “hola, te importa si enciendo la música?” And so we made our way up that steep windy road to Anamaya with the music blaring and an English-speaking Canadian and a Spanish-speaking Costa Rican singing at the top of our lungs to George Michael...in perfect English!