Yoga, Hikes and Bikes

I've been doing yoga for about 5 years now.  However, I can barely be considered an actual yogi and my yoga "practice" wouldn't even be considered a practice by most yogis.  Basically, I open my iPhone yoga app each morning and follow along, Mimicking poses that I have no idea how to do properly.  I've never done yoga with a group before, never taken a single course nor did I see it necessary to watch videos to learn proper technique.  I thought the app was perfectly fine at teaching me how to do yoga.  That is until I actually took the step to further my "practice" after a friend of mine, who is a yoga teacher, persuaded me to sit in on one of her classes.

I drove the hour and a half to St. Peter's to arrive for the 10:00 class.  About 15 other students were already there setting out their mats. I felt a little like a fish out of water but soon adjusted and felt comfortable once I realized no one was paying any attention to me or what I was doing or how I was doing it.

I know now that I'd been doing yoga wrong all along.  Well, not wrong.  I was told my form was good and I learned the flow pretty quick.  However, when I had been doing it at home using an app with stationary pictures showing poses, I missed out on proper breathing and transitioning techniques.  That one hour-long class changed my whole outlook on yoga.  It had always been beneficial for me (even though I was going about it all wrong - I was at least getting some stretching and relaxation benefits out of it) but now I have the courage to take some more classes and the knowledge to improve my own practice.  I understand now that yoga has multiple benefits that go beyond stretching and relaxing and I am noticing a huge difference when I do yoga now. I felt like a million bucks after that class and I was ready for a long hike along Murray's Beach just outside St. Peters.

I hiked Murray's beach before but on this day, I hiked in the opposite direction.  My friend and I parked near the beach and had our lunch before setting out along the rocky shoreline.  I didn't walk far before almost killing myself.  I wasn't paying attention to my footing on the slippery rocks and nearly fell flat on my back.  Had I not caught myself, I would have hit my head and possibly broken a bone.  I did get wet but fortunately it wasn't that cold out.

We walked for a while along the rocky beach before switching over to a path through the woods.  This made for easier walking but the flies, even at that time of year, were really bad!  I ended up with about a dozen bites on my exposed legs and arms. We reached a point where we decided to turn around as it was getting late.  But first, we sat on the beach and drank some tea and ate some snacks while watching the little ripples on the big lake gently come ashore.

We didn't go through the woods on the way back so we ended up having to maneuver around some fallen trees on the thin strip of beach that we missed when we took the shortcut through the woods.

We arrived back at the cars in the late afternoon just in time to see two deer saunter into the field for a snack.  It was almost dark when I started the long drive home but I was ok with that.  I love a night time drive along route 4, along the Bras d'Or Lakes on that windy country road through some of Cape Breton's most beautiful little communities.

Biking is another one of my summer pastimes and this summer I added a new feature to my car; a bike rack.  Normally, I just drive my bike around my neighborhood or around the nearby town but now I can go anywhere with it.  I didn't get a chance to go biking much during August because it was so hot and all I wanted to do was go to the beach.  However, once Mid-September rolled around, I wanted to be on that bike all the time.  The municipality recently completed a multi-use trail that runs from the airport in Gardiner Mines all the way to the Mayflower Mall area in Sydney - about 25 kilometres return.  I drove to the airport one fine day and parked my car near the trailhead and headed out.  It was chilly but nice and I did the entire trail and back in a little over two hours. The trail is very well-maintained, wide and safe compared to some of the roads I usually drive on.  It was nice to drive somewhere different and not have to deal with traffic.   

By this time, it was starting to get darker earlier so I switched my evening walks at Dominion Beach to late-afternoon walks.  That will continue now until spring.  October and November are what I call hiking and biking season.  However, a few road trips are usually reserved for this time of year, particularly my yearly trip around the Cabot Trail to see the spectacular fall colors.

I embarked on a trip around the trail on a fine day that was predicted to remain fairly sunny and warm until at least the evening.  I started the trail at the Red Barn just past Baddeck with the intention of going through Margaree and onto Cheticamp and finally Ingonish.  I took my time going through the Margaree Valley as this is where the fall colours are usually at their best.

I stopped at Lake O'Law first and if the success of the day was to be based on the events that transpired in that provincial park, it would not have been a good day.  I got out of the car and made my way to the women's bathroom (which was an old wooden outhouse).  Everything seemed fine.  Someone else had just exited the same bathroom a few minutes earlier and when I opened and closed the door, everything seemed fine. Until.....I tried to reopen it to exit and the lock jammed from the outside.  Because I am severely claustrophobic, I instantly panicked at the thought of being enclosed in a small space especially a smelly, remote outhouse.  First I screamed "help" over and over.  When no help came, I started punching the door and frantically tried to loosen the lock.  When that didn't work, I started kicking the door in an attempt to literally knock it down.  I think I would have succeeded if not for a distant voice yelling "hang on, I'm coming".  I froze and listened for footsteps until, finally, the door opened.  A woman stood on the other side with a worried look on her face which surely had to be a mask for the laughter she must have been stifling.

Had I been locked in an outhouse all day, I would not have been able to continue on with the wonderful day I ended up having.  Besides enjoying the spectacular fall colours of the Margaree Valley, I went on to visit many of my favourite places along the Cabot Trail and beyond.  I made a little detour off the trail to visit a few of my favourite beaches; Inverness Beach, Chimney Corner and Whale Cove.

I grabbed a coffee in Cheticamp and drove along the Cabot Trail until I reached The Lone Shieling. I love this trail.  It's only short but it's one of my favorite nature walks; tall trees, peace and quiet with a stream running through. On this day, I was the only person there and it was wonderful.  I took my time walking along that trail, taking in every sight and sound.

I drove almost straight to Ingonish after my little hike at the Lone Shieling.  I wanted to make it there before dark and before the Bean Barn, my favourite cafe, closed.  Eating a huge slice of their carrot cake and taking a small coffee with me to Ingonish Beach has become a little tradition for me over the years. After I made some quick stops at some of my favourite places along the way (Black Brook, Warren Lake, Broad Cove), I just barely made it to the Bean Barn.  The place was empty so I sat in my regular spot and ate my cake before hearing to my spot at Ingonish Beach.  I sat in the cool sand near the surf and didn't get up again until the sun disappeared into the horizon.  I took my time going home.  Knowing this was likely my last road trip of the season, I wanted to stretch it out as much as possible even if it meant driving at night in moose country and getting home close to midnight.   

Absolute Paradise

I spent a full week at Anamaya in April and I can honestly say that it was the best place I have ever stayed in all of my travels. Everything was perfect, it was paradise. Anamaya is located on top of a hill above the small village of Montezuma overlooking a spectacular view of the Pacific Coast and surrounding mountains. It was one of the best views I had ever seen! The infinity pool (yes there was a beautiful infinity pool overlooking the ocean and that view) was always clean and refreshing.

I stayed in one of the more affordable rooms in the main house at Anamaya and it was amazing. Comfortable bed, full bathroom, tons of closet space and beautiful patio doors that opened to overlook the ocean...every morning, I awoke to the sun rising over the Pacific.

The service at Anamaya was probably the best service I had ever had anywhere. The staff were amazing, They interacted with guests, they were there to help with anything we needed, they were polite and friendly and you could tell they loved working at Anamaya.

Many activities such as surfing and ziplining were available and every excursion I participated in exceeded my expectations.

The main house was where everyone gathered for meals. Internet, free international calling, snacks and smoothies were available throughout the day and the outside deck area was teh perfect place to meet up with other guests to chat or to spend time reading in a hammock, or sunbathing.

I didn't participate in many of the yoga classes that were held throughout the week but based on my observations and what I heard from other guests, the instructors were very knowledgeable.

Walking around the various houses at Anamaya was an adventure in itself because I never knew what I was going to see! Monkeys, geckos, various tropical birds, iguanas and a strange (but seemingly friendly) raccoon-like creature that often visited me in the evening while I was relaxing in the hammock.

Now for the food...The Most Amazing Food Ever! At 7:00am, a large fruit bowl full of mixed fruit and various dips was placed in the kitchen before morning yoga. At 9:00am, buffet breakfast with a large variety of items served. At 2:00pm, buffet lunch with various wraps and sandwiches and many other items. At 7:00pm, large 3-course dinner served with a different (and absolutely delicious) meal every night. I have honestly never eaten as well I did that week in Montezuma, Costa Rica and the best thing about the food was it was all fresh and organic.

There is so much more I can say about Anamaya but it will take too long! To sum up my review...if you ever find yourself planning a trip to Costa Rica, make Montezuma one of your stops and stay at Anamaya...I guarantee you will not be disappointed!

A Week at Anamaya Yoga Retreat - Pura Vida at its Best

In November 2012, I opened my Gmail account, like I usually do first thing in the morning, and noticed an email from an unfamiliar address. I wasn’t expecting anything from anyone but this email didn’t look like spam. So I opened it. I read it. It took a while for it to sink in.

I often enter contests on the internet and many of them are travel related. Many of them turn out to be scams and many of them get so many entries that it would be pure luck to be the one chosen to go on an all-expense paid trip. But lo and behold, this official-looking email did have to do with a contest I recently entered and it stated that I had won a trip to Costa Rica. The information in the email sank in, excitement ensued and than doubt set in. There was no way this was true…but it looked so official. Research commenced immediately. I searched for scams dealing with the company hosting the contest. I searched for complaints against the company. I searched for others who had won contests from them in the past. I searched for the retreat I would be staying at for complaints against them. Heck, I even searched for the person who sent the email to see if there was anything sinister being said about them. Nadda. Everything turned up squeaky clean but I was still in doubt. I responded to the email to get more information. Again, everything seemed very official and all the pertinent information was there with no hidden undertones that this was fishy. And they didn’t ask for my credit card number and that told me that this could be the real thing.

So when it was all said and done, I did, in fact, win a trip to Costa Rica and I have already been there and back and believe me, there was nothing sinister about my stay at Anamaya Yoga Retreat in Montezuma. I had an amazing time and this trip provided me with the opportunity to do something else while I was there; I took an extra week, on my own time and expense, to explore a country that is said to be among the most beautiful in the world.

I left Halifax airport in late April during a snowstorm and made the almost 24-hour journey to San Jose, Costa Rica. No, it does not usually take that long to get there if you are picky with flights but I’m not picky so I chose the longest route with hopes of seeing a city I had never visited before, Houston Texas. I had a 12-hour layover in the city and lets just say my plans to go explore the city didn’t work out well and my failed attempt at making the most out of a layover resulted in me nearly starving to death (everything was closed the entire time I was in the airport), sleeping on a very uncomfortable bench in a noisy area and being bored out of my mind. Unfortunately, I booked the same route home and had to repeat this entire process all over again two weeks later. I arrived in San Jose to the sun splitting rocks. When I had checked the forecast before leaving home, I was disappointed to see that the entire week called for rain in that area of Costa Rica. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky that day and I don’t think I saw a cloud or raindrop the entire time I was there and the temperatures remained very hot the entire time. That was just the beginning of my good luck on that trip. The beginning of the adventure started the next morning when I checked out of my hotel and boarded a shuttle to Montezuma and Anamaya Yoga Retreat.

After a long drive and long ferry ride to get to the Nicoya Peninsula, Montezuma soon appeared. Anamaya was located on a hill above the village. A very steep hill that is not fun to walk up in the searing mid-day heat, so I learned on my first excursion into town. I had no idea what to expect before I arrived at Anamaya but what I was met with far exceeded my expectations from the get-go. I arrived around noon and was greeted by a very friendly staff member who led me to the pool area where I could wait and meet the other guests I would be staying with me over the course of the week. That was one of the best things about Anamaya; there wouldn’t be busloads of new recruits coming in every day, it would be the same twenty-something people from all over the world staying there together for a whole week. No one leaving, no one coming in. With a welcome cocktail in hand, I made myself at home around the infinity pool and introduced myself to the people who were already there waiting. The first thing that caught my attention was the view. It was one of the most spectacular views I had ever seen. The Pacific Ocean lined with miles of rocky and mountainous coastline and the infinity pool strategically laid out in a way to allow bathers to relax in the saltwater pool while taking in that sight. I just couldn’t wait any longer to experience that for myself and the heat was enough to make one want to jump into any body of water that presented itself. How could I not want to jump right in and stay there for the rest of the afternoon? And that is what I did. Others followed and soon we were all relaxing in that pool, a group of people, each from a different part of the world, who just met a few minutes earlier, sharing our first of many wonderful experiences that transpired that week. By that time, I knew the place was special and I was about to have a week-long experience that I will never forget as long as I live. If you have ever seen the movies "The Beach" and "Eat, Pray, Love", than you have an idea what my time in Montezuma was like if you take the main points of both of those movies and combine them.

After our little meet and greet/swim, registration and receiving the keys to our rooms, we went off in various directions with a request from staff to meet in the common area in an hour for the official run-down of our week at Anamaya. There were various buildings around the grounds that housed themed rooms but mine was located on the top floor of the main house. I knew I was staying in the cheaper accommodations because I had won the trip but my room was incredible in every way possible. My roommates had not arrived yet so I had first pick at a bed. Of course, I chose the one that faced the glass patio doors that overlooked that view of the pacific ocean. Imagining the sunrise the next morning was instant motivation to wake up at the crack of dawn. I did, however, find one problem with the room; geckos. Not that I have a problem with geckos. They are the cutest little things that stick themselves wherever they please and don’t really bother anyone…except when they show up in weird place like right above your bed, in your bed, or in your luggage. They were even on the walls of my closet and, out of fear of accidentally bringing one of the tropical creatures back to not-so-tropical Canada, I made sure to keep my luggage closed tightly.

I felt immediately at home at Anamaya. There was just something about the atmosphere of the place. It was so happy and positive and inviting. Maybe the surrounding scenery, the smell of fresh ocean air the sound of waves crashing of the rocks below us had a lot to do with it. Whatever it was, I instantly liked the place and when dinner arrived, I liked it even more.

During my first evening at Anamaya, I discovered that dinner was an elaborate, social event at the retreat. I entered the dining area and was met by dim lighting and candlelight, elegantly set tables and light music to set a relaxing ambiance. More than twenty people who had just met a couple of hours before took their places and instantly started the process of learning more about each other. What choice did we have in such an intimate setting? By the end of the night, it was like we had known each other all our lives.

Then there was the food. I don’t know how to describe it except to say that the seven dinners I had at Anamaya rank in the top ten dinners I’ve had over the course of my life so far. There were four courses every night – soup, appetizers, main course and dessert. All the food was made right there at Anamaya by local chefs, all the food was organic and some of it was even grown nearby, all meals were healthy and I had the choice to request all vegetarian meals for the entire week. Alcoholic drinks were not served at Anamaya except for the last night but we were permitted to purchase our own at the supermarket in town. That was fine with me as there is nothing worse than a vacation spent listening to drama, fighting and stupidity caused by over-drinking, not to mention wasting half of it in a drunken stupor and the other half with a hangover. I was completely fine with there being no alcohol except for the occasional bottle of red wine bought in town to be shared between everyone while winding down before bed.

The first morning at Anamaya started off with me waking up at ten to five (without the help of an alarm clock) just as the first rays of the sun were beginning to appear on the horizon. I walked the few feet to the balcony and quietly took my place with the geckos and strange-looking tropical bugs (that may or may not have been poisonous) and watched it come up over the Pacific Ocean and shed light on the surrounding mountains. Our first yoga class started at 8:00 but I tiptoed downstairs quietly only to discover that almost everyone was already awake and eating the fresh fruit that was served a few minutes earlier. Since returning from that trip, my main staples at the grocery store have been pineapple and papaya, two fruits I had never taken much of an interest in until I went to Costa Rica. There was still a little more than an hour until yoga, plenty of time to send a few emails home and take a quick swim in that luxurious infinity pool.

I understand yoga. I know how beneficial it is to both mind and body. I have even tried a few beginner classes in the past and sometimes practiced the basics at home. I soon learned that the people who actually booked and paid for their vacation at Anamaya came for the yoga. It was a yoga retreat after all. For some reason, that connection didn’t click with me until that morning and I just assumed the classes would be for beginners. Well, this was not the case and let’s just say my first advanced yoga class was an epic fail in so many ways. Trying to keep up with those guys with all the bending in ways I didn’t even think were possible in that 40 degree heat equaled me, semi-conscious in the pool suffering from pain and near heat exhaustion. I didn’t attend anymore yoga classes for the rest of the week.

I missed the delicious-looking breakfast that was served right after yoga because I had zero appetite. By mid-afternoon I was feeling well enough to finally get out of the pool, get a shower and make myself look presentable to go into town for a bit. Presentable enough I should say. No amount of product or straightening would tame my usually straight hair in that heat and humidity. I was a bit worried about the heat by that time and thought about my disastrous past experiences with heat exhaustion in hot climates and that was when I realized I had left my hat at home. First on my list when I got to Montezuma? Buy a new hat and stronger sunscreen. Since I was in a beach/surf town, finding both items was pretty easy and with SPF 75 (I didn’t even know they made the stuff that strong!), I wouldn’t have to worry about getting sunburned.

And so it went like this for the next week. Early wake-up, fruit, breakfast, swim, lunch, go into town, return for dinner and relaxing in the common area…just minus the Yoga. I decided I was not advanced enough for the classes and exerting myself in that heat would be too risky. When my final day at Anamaya arrived, I regretted not jumping into it because I heard everyone else talking about how great they felt. I guess I will forever go down in Anamaya history as the “rebel” who played hooky during Yoga class and went to the beach instead. But I did take something to do with yoga home with me; a new found interest in it and the desire to learn more and even enroll myself in a beginner class this winter.

Although it sounds like every day at Anamaya was the same, nothing could be further from the truth. Yes, parts of the day were structured but no one was obligated to take part in any of the activities. However, most of us took part because the atmosphere was so relaxed and everyone became so close that we enjoyed doing things together. Every day saw a new and exciting activity. One day it was surfing lessons, another day was ziplining and the last day was a mini road trip to another nearby town to have a bonfire and drinks on the beach. If all all-inclusive vacations were like the ones at Anamaya, I wouldn’t mind them so much. I had free-will to do whatever I wanted at all times while still having scheduled and planned activities available if I wanted them. No one tried to talk me out of wandering into town, no one tried to scare me into thinking it was too dangerous to wander around alone and no one tried to sell me any tours or try to persuade me to participate in a planned activity. I felt free at Anamaya. Free to think how I wanted, free to express my opinions, free to do what I wanted and…just free in general. This is a feeling I am not used to back home in Canada. I often feel judged by others who loathe my sense of adventure, my “flighty” (as they call it) attitude that sees me embarking on many adventures and never turning down an opportunity to do something new, my minimalist lifestyle and preference to gather experiences rather than material things and my hatred towards television. At home, many people think of me as weird or abnormal…an outcast. But in Costa Rica, I met so many people like me. People who love life and want to fill it with as many experiences as possible. People who gave up all their material possessions to live in peace and harmony on a beach in Costa Rica. In fact, that sense of freedom was felt everywhere in the country. The people are so happy and their top priority is living life to the fullest and not letting negativity or fear get in the way of that. You can be whoever you want to be in Costa Rica and no one judges you. I guess that is where the Costa Rican saying “Pura Vida” comes from. The Pure Life.

The Search for Colones, Gelato and the Perfect Smoothie

On a map of Costa Rica, Montezuma is the little coastal village situated at the bottom of the Nicoya Peninsula in Northwestern Costa Rica.  My first full day in Montezuma Costa Rica was off to a great start as early-morning rises usually mean a long, productive day ahead. At 5:00AM, I awoke to the first rays of sunshine coming into my room. I grabbed my book and retreated to the balcony so I could enjoy some quality reading time in the peace and quiet of the early morning before everyone else woke up. I love early mornings anyway but this was the kind of place that could make even the latest sleeper want to get up and enjoy the day!

At around 6:30 I went downstairs to have a quick swim before fruit was served and yoga class began. I was surprised by how many people were already there. I’m not used to being around many people back home who love mornings as much as I do! At 7:00, a large bowl of mixed fruit was presented in the main dining area. I never really gave papaya and pineapple much thought in the past, but after spending two weeks in Costa Rica and eating almost nothing but those two fruit, I can’t leave the grocery store without buying one or the other!

I was looking forward to my first Yoga class of the week because it had been a while since I had done it and I enjoyed it. However, the long flights, long days of overland travel and change in time zones had done a number on me and these classes were a little more advanced than I was used to. I suffered through the pain and soaring morning heat for the entire class – an hour and a half - and then collapsed into the pool and remained there, barely able to move, for the rest of the morning. Breakfast was served immediately after, but the heat and exhaustion had taken my appetite.

After lunch, I was feeling better and my energy levels returned to normal so that I could hike down the hill to Montezuma Costa Rica, do a bit of sightseeing, shopping and sunbathing on the beach and walk back up the hill in time for dinner. Going down wasn’t too bad but the mid-day heat was pushing 40 degrees Celsius and I knew there was no way I would be walking back up that steep hill to Anamaya unless someone was carrying me.

Montezuma Costa Rica was once a small fishing village and is now a small and widely popular surfing destination. One can see immediately that the town’s vendors and shops mostly cater to a certain demographic; surfers, yoga enthusiasts and beach lovers. Jewelry made from rocks and seashells, clothing made specifically for surfing and practicing yoga, swimsuits of all sorts, surf boards and related equipment and souvenirs made with treasures found along the shore fill a dozen or so small shops along the main streets of the village.

Before I left Canada, I called my hotel in San Jose to verify that I was able to exchange my Canadian dollars for Costa Rican Colones. I heard it was best to exchange Canadian dollars for American dollars before arriving because American dollars were more widely exchangeable. However, the front desk clerk at my hotel confirmed that I could bring Canadian dollars and exchange them right there at their front desk. There must have been a misunderstanding because when I tried to do this, I was told that Canadian dollars couldn’t be exchanged. I was stuck using my credit card and the few American dollars I had on me during my time in San Jose. This meant I was being charged fees on my credit card and a lot of places only accepted cash so the first thing I tried to do in Montezuma was find someone to exchange my Canadian dollars. The bank was in a nearby town that required me to hop on a bus so I saved that option as a last resort. I went into every store and restaurant and asked if anyone knew where I could do the exchange. After asking more than a dozen people, I was told that the Super Mamatea (which was a small supermarket that sold food and other basics) might be able to help me. I walked across the street to the store and was distracted by the display of hats at the front. I forgot my sunhat at home and I desperately needed one to avoid a repeat of the almost fatal heat-exhaustion episode I had two years earlier in Mexico. The price was right except I didn’t have enough cash on me at that time. The cashier told me he could exchange my money but I would have to come back in an hour to do so.

So off I went with only a few dollars to my name. An Ice Cream and Gelato shop sandwiched between a couple of shops across the street caught my eye. Ice Dream was small, bright and cheery and most importantly, air-conditioned! The display case was filled with various flavors of homemade Italian ice cream and because I ordered the two-scoop serving, I was able to choose two flavors and you can’t go wrong a mixture of chocolate and peanut butter! The woman who served me was very friendly and started a lively conversation with me about how the shop came to be and how she came to be in Montezuma. She explained that she had arrived a few years earlier from France, loved the place and the lifestyle and settled. This was a story I heard many times during my travels throughout Costa Rica; It seems the laid-back, easy-going, carefree life near the beach locked many visitors in for good. It crossed my mind several times during my trip that maybe this was a lifestyle that I too could get used to.

I still had some time to kill before going back to exchange my money, so I walked around the entire village. The carefree lifestyle that the people enjoyed here was evident everywhere. Shops were open but workers were sitting outside waiting for customers, enjoying the sun and talking to passerby instead of remaining behind the counter. The ones who had the day off were sitting on patios enjoying a cold smoothie, laying on the beach or heading to where the surf was best that day with their surfboards to catch some waves. There was an elementary school located right on the beach and I envied the children playing soccer in the sand during recess. Even friendly dogs roamed free without leashes and without a care in the world. Everyone seemed to embrace a healthy, active lifestyle in Montezuma. All of the restaurants I saw had signs advertising organic meals with natural ingredients and smoothies of every concoction imaginable. I also noted that there was only one bar in the town and no one was drunk or rowdy like in the bars here at home. If you live in paradise, I guess there is no need to drown your sorrows in a half dozen pints! This was the “Pura Vida” I had read about on the internet while doing research about my trip. The pure life…

The most common modes of transportation I saw were Land Rovers and ATVs. I guessed that this must be because the only way you can get to some of the best beaches is with either one of these vehicles because some of the roads were too bad for regular cars. I thought about renting an ATV so I could just drive off into the unknown but since I never drove one before, the idea was quickly dismissed. I may have had full coverage on my travel insurance but I didn’t want to spend the rest of the vacation in the hospital.

I returned to the Super Mamatea to finally have my currency exchanged and bought that hat and some sunscreen. Without thinking, I placed the hat on my head and was on my way. I must have been walking around those streets for a good half hour before someone approached me, discreetly informed me that the tag was still on my hat, smiled and went on his way. I don’t often walk around with the tags still on my clothes but if I did do that here at home, I would get funny looks, weird stares and some chuckles before anyone would inform me of my fashion faux pas, if anyone told me at all. But in Montezuma, it was like no one even noticed or cared. The townspeople seemed to just do what they wanted and wear what they wanted, when they wanted without anyone giving a second thought as long as they were not hurting anyone. I was beginning to like this place. I was beginning to like it a lot.

I was dreading the walk up that steep hill back to Anamaya and decided that since I had acquired some cash, a cab would be taking me there. For a mere 6 dollars, it was worth it to avoid the torture of walking up that hill in that extreme heat. But first, I went on a mission to find the best smoothies in town. I noticed The Bar Restaurante Moctezuma was serving smoothies to patrons on the outdoor patio so I walked in and took a seat. There was so much to choose from and I had no idea what to order so I told the waiter to surprise me with something light, refreshing and not too sweet. A few minutes later a green concoction made up of a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables arrived at my table. The drink was really good but the price was not. At a cost of 7 dollars for an average size glass plus tip, I vowed to search for a less expensive option the next time I walked into town.

It was starting to get dark and dinner was being served at Anamaya at 8:30 so I made my way to the taxi stand to get a ride up the hill. I waited a while for one to come before learning that there was a trick to getting a cab in Montezuma. They rarely wait at the taxi stand; you need to walk the streets and find a cab that is empty and just hop in if the driver is present. If he is not present, walk into the nearest business close to where his car is parked and call for him. So that is what I did and a very friendly young man who could speak no English offered to drive me to Anamaya. His first words to me were “hola, te importa si enciendo la música?” And so we made our way up that steep windy road to Anamaya with the music blaring and an English-speaking Canadian and a Spanish-speaking Costa Rican singing at the top of our lungs to George Michael...in perfect English!

The Road to the Nicoya Peninsula - Montezuma and Anamaya Yoga Retreat

I started the 5-hour journey to the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica early the morning and quickly realized that Costa Rica Travel means traversing over a lot of poorly-maintained roads lined with spectacular vistas. A few of these roads were downright scary with steep drops...and no guardrails.  I guess it's a good thing I opted for a comprehensive travel insurance policy before I left! 

We had to stop several times to pick up other people who were staying at the same resort at I was so that meant I had some company on the long drive and almost 2-hour long ferry crossing to the Nicoya Peninsula. I didn’t mind the drive so much because it gave me the opportunity to see areas of Costa Rica that I otherwise would not get to see.  

The change from paved highway to bumpy, gravel road told me that we were moving into more remote territory. The ferry crossing in Tambor, Costa Rica went without issues except that we had to lug our baggage onboard ourselves and there were stairs involved. A lively Latin dance party complete with portable ghetto blaster and salsa dancing was taking part on the top deck (I didn’t get the impression that this was something that usually took place on the boat, just some random people trying to make a boring crossing more exciting) but I stayed on the bottom deck and watched my luggage and the scenery.


We arrived in Montezuma, Costa Rica at around 1PM and made our way up the very steep road to the top of the hill that housed what would be my home away from home for the next week; Anamaya. Around this time, I glimpsed the Pacific Ocean for the first time. I had no idea what to expect before arriving at this resort except that it was a yoga and adventure retreat and was said to be paradise on earth. Upon arrival, I quickly realized that my stay at Anamaya Yoga Resort would be nothing like the typical tropical resort vacations I had taken in the past. First of all, it wasn’t really a resort; it was a house. A large house with other little houses and cabinas scattered about. And there would be no college kids and families checking in throughout the week. Just 20-some yoga and adventure enthusiasts looking for a place to relax and enjoy the serene surroundings of the rainforest and world-renowned sandy beaches known for having some of the best surfing in Central America.


My room wasn’t ready when I arrived so I stowed my luggage away, changed into my swimsuit and cooled off in the beautiful infinity pool overlooking a beautiful panoramic view of the mountains and coastline complete with soaring vultures. One of those vultures landed on the ledge of the pool only a few feet away from me. I wondered if that was a common occurrence at the pool and that thought made me feel a bit uneasy.

The other guests who were staying with me that week started to trickle in including my roommates whom I would be sharing accommodations with. I immediately felt comfortable at Anamaya and made myself at home in a hammock after my swim and enjoyed a tropical welcome drink while I waited for my room to be ready.

When I booked my stay at Anamaya, I booked the cheapest room they had available since I was traveling on a budget and luxury and the little extras that some people prefer to have when traveling were not important to me. Even though accommodations such as Ananda Cabina, Bali Cabina, The Casita, Gaia House, Ganesh Cabina, Hanuman Cabina, Jungle Cabina, Prana Cabina, Serafina Room, Temple Cabin and Lotus Cabina all sounded wonderful, I chose to stay in the more affordable Master Suite which was located on the top floor of the main house. If this was the cheapest and least luxurious accommodations at Anamaya, than the other available suites must have been out-of-this-world because everything about this suite was heavenly! A balcony overlooking a spectacular view of Montezuma and the distant mountains and rocky coastline, full bathroom, indoor balcony overlooking the main dining area of the house and tons of closet space. Every morning during my stay, even though my alarm clock was set for 6AM, I awoke at 5AM to the first rays of the sun rising over the Pacific Ocean.

That first day at Anamaya was more of an orientation than anything else. I spent some time by the pool chatting with the other guests, walking around the grounds and familiarizing myself with the area, unpacking and relaxing. I noticed that my cell phone hadn’t been working all day and this turned out to be a good thing when it didn't work for the entire week. I needed a break from looking down at my phone. The view surrounding me was something I had a hard time taking my eyes off and having no phone to distract me from what mattered most that week was fine with me! A dinner was prepared for us that evening and all of us joined together at one big table in the main dining area to enjoy our first meal of many that week. When I was told that all my meals would be included, I was expecting the typical buffet-style, sit where you want, when you want in a cafeteria-like room. But meals at Anamaya were much more meaningful and enjoyable. There is something about a large group of people who just met having dinner together. It’s amazing how well you get to know others in a setting like this and it felt like I had known these people my whole life by time we were finished eating. First there was the soup and appetizers, than the main course and, of course, dessert. The food was all homemade, fresh, organic and vegetarian. I found out later that most of the food we were eating came from a nearby farm including the eggs and dairy.

It was dark by the time dinner was finished and I thought it might be a good time to take a walk down the gravel road that lead into the wooded area between Anamaya and the town of Montezuma. My walk was going great until I spotted something moving in the brush. A nearby light caught its eyes and their eerie orange glow caused me to step back slowly for fear that it was something that may attack me. I found out later from an employee at Anamaya that it was probably a pizote (I spelled it how it sounds but I have no idea how it's really spelled!) , a member of the raccoon family. I was told there were Jaguars in the country but they rarely ventured close to people. What I wasn’t told was howler monkeys actually make a sound that sounds like a big cat growling. I didn’t make it much further on my nightly stroll before I heard this sound and, without a second thought, turned back towards the house and retreated to my balcony with a book instead. It wasn’t until the next day that I found out what I had heard and was warned not to get too close to the howler monkeys because it could result in monkey poo being thrown at me in defense.

When I spotted some in a tree the next day, I made a conscious effort not to get too close. That nightly walk was the first of many that week as I made it a routine to take some time to myself each evening to walk down that road just listening to the strange and unfamiliar sounds of the tropical forest.

It’s a good thing I unpacked and got my room ready earlier that day because I was very tired by the time I decided to call it a night. Bed time came early at Anamaya which was a good thing for me because I am a rare early-morning person and love to get up before or with the sunrise. Fruit was being served at 7AM, our first yoga session was at 7:30 and I planned to walk into the town the next day and do some sightseeing so I also wanted to be awake and rested for all that. By 10PM, I was almost sound asleep when I heard a gecko and it was somewhere in the room. The geckos were everywhere in the house but I didn’t expect to have one in my room. I was unable to locate it but I made sure all of my luggage was closed so it would not crawl in and surprise me the next day.

And than I spotted something on the ceiling. Closer inspection revealed a giant cockroach. Just than, my roommate walked in, spotted it and promptly panicked like many people do when they see a giant bug about to invade their sleeping quarters. It quickly moved around a bit across the ceiling, disappeared a few times, reappeared and than crawled inside the light shade where we hoped it would stay for the rest of the night. I slept with the windows and patio door open that night. There were already geckos and bugs in the room anyway, so might as well get used to them. The warm breeze on my face was soothing and I fell asleep to the sound of the waves hitting the shore below and the various calls of the nocturnal creatures who were lucky enough to call this place their permanent home.