Return to the Hill

For the past decade or so, it seems winter on Cape Breton Island is hit or miss.  Sometimes it snows, other times it snows a lot and sometimes it doesn't snow at all.  The winter before last, we had a massive week-long snowstorm and I was able to do plenty of snowshoeing.  Last winter, I didn't use them once.  This winter, I had the chance to use them a few times as we had a pretty good winter as far as snow goes...and I got to snowshoe in some places I've never used my snowshoes before.  

This time I ventured to a familiar place that I haven't been to in a long, long time.  Back in the day when my bones were stronger and I didn't have a care in the world, I zoomed down the slopes of Ski Ben Eoin on skis.  This time, I explored some of their backcountry snowshoe trails on snowshoes and I got to do it at night under a full moon! 

Driving into the parking lot at my old stomping grounds was like stepping back in the past.  It seemed to be very close to how I remember it way back when and I love places like that.  Places I can be away from for many years and they're still the same when I return years later. 

I headed up the chairlift to the top of the mountain where I headed off into the forest.  The trail was clear and well-maintained but there was enough snow for the snowshoeing to be enjoyable.  Sometimes, groomed trails are just too groomed to really enjoy them and it's more like walking than snowshoeing.  I was surprised by how many trails there were and how far back I was able to venture away from civilization.  There were no lights except for the light of that giant moon shining down.  There's something about the forest on a crisp winter's night especially under a full moon. I spent over an hour wandering the trails and returned to the main chalet via the ski hill itself.  Why take the chairlift down when you can snowshoe down the hill while admiring that amazing view over the Bras d'Or Lakes!  

The only changes I really noticed around the hill were that the names of some of the ski trails have changed and the T-bar lift is gone as far I can tell.  It was nice to be back there reminiscing about the days and nights I spent going up and down the mountain without a care in the world.  I think it was that period in my life that made me a winter-loving person even though I don't downhill ski anymore.  I'd like to try it though.  I keep saying "next year".  Maybe next year will be the year... 

 

A Winter Getaway in the Cape Breton Highlands and Beyond

Since mid-December, I've been working overtime - 14-hour days - and desperately needed a break when the text came through.  It was my sister and she proposed something I couldn't say no to.

A few days before receiving the text, my other sister arrived from Alberta for a visit and to celebrate our father's 80th birthday and to celebrate her and her twin sister's birthday the following week.  I had planned to take them out to dinner that weekend but they had other plans: A last-minute getaway to the Cape Breton Highlands to do some skiing, snowshoeing, skating and relaxing in a country cabin away from the craziness of home.  Of course, I said yes.  I didn't even have to think about it.  This was the break I had been dreaming about for months. 

The cabin was an Airbnb in Dingwall, about 30 minutes from Ingonish and the ski hill.  We arrived late in the evening after picking up a pizza and settled in right away.  The place was all wood, cozy and perfect for a winter weekend away from home.  My little nephew loved it from the start, too.  That first evening was spent playing hide and go seek and after he went to bed, it was drinks and chats for the adults. 

The first light of morning was the true reveal.  A huge deck overlooking the water with the rolling mountains of the Cape North area in the background.  It was so beautiful it almost looked like a painting!  

We got ready and left before 9, stopped for breakfast at the only cafe we could find open and reached Ski Cape Smokey before 10.  After getting our passes, we headed up the gondola to the top of the mountain where everyone else did some downhill skiing and I ventured off into the forest on snowshoes.  

The trail I embarked on was 4 kilometers and I honestly didn't think I would complete the entire thing. There was a lake at the end and I really wanted to make it that far.  Two other people came off the trail as I was arriving and I saw no one else after that.  I had the entire forest to myself and it was magical.  The temperature was warm, the skies were clear, the sun was bright and there was lots of fresh snow and scenic vistas all around.  

It was hard going for the first little while and some of it was uphill.  Every time I thought I was too tired and should turn around but I kept going.  Finally, I did make it to that lake.  I relaxed and took in the views for a while and headed back down the trail towards the gondola.  

I was hoping to see some wildlife but all I saw were some bunny tracks.  But I was fine with that as long as I got to enjoy some time in the forest surrounded by nature and peace and quiet. 

Back at the lodge, we grabbed some snacks and headed back to our cabin where we made some supper and just hung out together in our cozy little hideaway.   

I hated to leave the next morning.  We drove to Ingonish and planned to stop at the outdoor skating rink before driving home.  Unfortunately, it was closed but by that time, it was starting to snow and we wanted to get ahead of the storm that was headed our way.  

The snow got heavier and heavier and by the time we got to Sydney, the roads were covered and we had passed a few fender benders on the highway.  We stopped to grab a pizza before that magical weekend came to an end and I have to say, I felt quite relaxed heading into work Monday for another marathon 14-hour day.  I think this is something I should do more often! 

 

Winter / Spring Update

It's been a while. Not a whole lot has happened this past winter. I'm hesitant to even call it a winter!  All that looking forward to downhill skiing, snowshoeing and exploring the pristine winter wonderlands of Cape Breton was for nothing.  We didn't get any snow!  We had a couple of mini storms that saw a few inches of snow fall but no major blizzard.  There wasn't even enough of it to shovel for the most part.  I think I shoveled once.  My lonely snowshoes sat in the back of the car all winter, never used.

Despite the lack of snow, I did manage to be kept busy for the most part.  I wasn't expecting overtime at work but at the last minute, we got the go ahead to do some.  At first, it was only supposed to be for a week, than 2 weeks.....and it ended up stretching into almost 6 weeks. 13 hours a day almost every weekday and chores on the weekends to catch up on.  It made the time go by fast because I blinked and it's now spring. 

Some notable events over the past few months include a lunar eclipse, an early morning sunrise eclipse, a few movie and dinner outings with friends, an arctic owl sighting, a few hikes with a friend at Petersfield Provincial Park and some fox sightings at the beach. I gifted myself season tickets for the Highland Arts Theater so I was kept busy one night a month since January.  There are 2 more productions before the end of the season and I must say I have thoroughly enjoyed what I've seen so far!

So that's about it for the winter of 2025.  Not much to report but thought I should post an update so it doesn't seem like I've forgotten about this blog. 

Lots of adventures planned for spring and summer including some possible trips abroad in the near-ish future!

 

 

 winter 2025...work situation, no snow, eclipses, foxes and snowy owl....

Hiking Along Cape Breton's Coal Town Trail

I've hiked many trails around Cape Breton, mostly in the Highlands National Park and around Victoria County but in recent years, I've made a point of trying out some of the trails closer to home, namely the ones close to my hometown of New Waterford and around the Cape Breton Regional Municipality. 

I've posted many times about my hiking adventures on the turbine road in The Gardiner and recently I crossed Gardiner Road and ventured alone the trail that leads to The Sandbar Restaurant in Dominion.  Yesterday, I decided to pick up on that trail where I left off and see how far I get along the Coal Town Trail on the leg that travels from that restaurant and into the other nearby communities of Bridgeport and Glace Bay. 

I went to work as usual and when my request for half a personal day was approved, I headed out at noon to pick up a friend and parked the car near the trailhead. I was excited at the fact that I had no idea what to expect along the way.  This is what I love about hiking new trails!

There was no wind but it wasn't a warm day by any means.  Below zero but comfortable with the sun peaking out here and there and our warm weather gear keeping us warm.  We hadn't walked far at all when we spotted out first nature sighting.  We heard it before we saw it.  High up in a tree was a woodpecker pecking away at a tree trunk! 

The trail started off in a kind of woodsy area but eventually opened up into a more urban landscape.  Sure there were fields, trees and streams but the backs of houses were only feet away from the trail in some spots.  Despite this, it was surprisingly calm and quiet except for the odd dog barking as we passed a little too close.  There were horses too and some fantastic ocean views from the higher elevations. 

We walked and walked and walked.  We crossed main roads and walked along quaint neighborhoods that I didn't even know existed.  After we walked for about two hours, we pondered turning around but curiosity got the better of us and we kept going around another bend to see what was next.  And than another bend and another....until we reached a dog park and a large pond with some benches.  We stopped for a rest and when the wind shifted and the air started to cool as the sun started to set, we turned back and made the long journey back to the car.  

It was dark and cold when we got back but also energized from all the fresh air and exercise.  It was decided right than and there that I would take another early day soon but next day we would park by that pond where we ended our hike and start up again there as the trail keeps going beyond that point.  I never leave a trail unfinished and this one will be no exception!

When the Lights go Out, it's just Another Winter Day in Atlantic Canada

Living in Atlantic Canada comes with its unique challenges.  Don't get me wrong, it comes with a lot of perks too. Incredible summers, a laid-back lifestyle, long stretches of sandy beaches, stunning scenery and a way of life like no other anywhere else in the world.  But there's the weather to contend with. The horrible weather that strikes between late September when those tropical storms and hurricanes barrel up the coast and between the months of January and March when we get dumped on with relentless snow, freezing rain and unforgiving winds. As if shoveling snow, navigating a landscape blanketed in a coating of ice or dealing with flooded basements isn't enough, there's the power outages.  I'm not just talking power outages that last a few hours, I'm talking widespread blackouts that leave tens of thousands in the dark and cold for days, sometimes even a week, at a time. 

It's not so bad when it happens in the Fall when the temperatures are above zero. It's downright dangerous when it happens in February as it did recently in Nova Scotia during a severe ice storm.  Yes, for those of you who are not familiar with the weather here, not only does snow and rain fall from the sky, ice does too. And boy, does it do a lot of damage.  Besides coating roads and structures with ice, it coats the power lines and trees with it too. You might look at a picture of this phenomenon we call Silver Thaw and think "wow, that's so pretty the way the tree branches glisten in the sun like that!"  Yeah, pretty alright. Until one of those heavy branches falls onto a power line and knocks it to the ground, plunging everyone on that grid into darkness. 

When news spread that a massive freezing rain storm was headed my way, I wasn't overly concerned. We get a lot of these storms. I'm used to them. In the back of my mind, I knew that a power outage was likely but I felt prepared despite the annoyance it would cause. I didn't realize at that time how much trouble a few hours without power could cause.  That's because it ended up being more than a few hours.  It ended up being four days. 

The day started off like any other February day in this corner of the world.  Cold and damp but with an eerie "calm before the storm" feeling in the air. The winds came up first. Then came the rain. That rain soon turned to a freeing rain that continued for about 48 hours. I lost my electricity around the fifth hour. That evening, it was still gone. Doable as long as the power company was correct and it would be back by the next morning. My fridge was still cold, the temperature in my apartment still livable as long as I kept my winter thermal gear on.  I was managing just fine with candles and flashlights. I sat in the dark watching cars go by on my darkened street.  One car.  Two cars.  Three cars.  100 cars. Wait, did I already see that car 4 times?  It occurred to me that, despite the high price of gas, many people were taking to their cars to get warm and charge their phones. At 1.50 a liter, I wasn't that desperate yet. 

 At around midnight, I tossed two thermal sleeping bags over my bed and crawled in for the long night ahead. Surprisingly, I fell asleep fairly quickly.  When I awoke, the power was still out. And by this time, the power company was saying it wouldn't be back until the next day. That caused some panic.  My first instinct was to save my precious food. With the cost of food these days, who can afford to toss out a fridge full!  I gathered up all my perishables and put them in the car where it was colder for the time being. Breakfast was out of the question. A granola bar for the road. I gathered up a toothbrush and change of clothes and headed for Dad's. 

Dad's power was out too. MacDonald's breakfast it was. MacDonald's had no power either. The mile-long lineup at the Tim Horton's drive-thru meant they had power as long as it didn't go out before we got to the window. We made it. I don't usually eat greasy breakfast sandwiches and sugary donuts but that morning, it hit the spot. 

Dad's power was back on by the time we got back. A drive-by of my neighborhood determined mine was not. Not happy with my day's routine thrown out the window and the inconveniences that come with not having power (the worry of pipes freezing), I retreated to the warmth of Dad's for the day and watched never-ending coverage of Covid-19, Freedom Truckers and the tension building up between Russia and Ukraine. By nightfall, my neighborhood was still in darkness.  I made the decision that it was too cold to stay there that night. I returned home to retrieve more of my belongings and was greeted with a scary surprise. 

 As I walked to my door, I could hear a beeping noise coming from somewhere in the darkness.  As I opened my door, I realized it was coming from inside my apartment. It took a second to realize it was my carbon monoxide detectors going off. If it had just been one going off, I would have thought perhaps the cold was affecting the batteries and triggering a false alarm. But it was two. And they were both doing the universal four quick beeps with a short pause which is the alarm indicating that there's carbon monoxide in the air and to get outdoors and call 911.  My first thought was to alert the other residents on the other side of the house. After frantic knocking, they finally came to the door. They had a gas stove going which I assumed was the cause. The alarms did not sound after the stove was turned off but I was glad I was staying at dad's that night.  It would be warm and I'd have the peace of mind in case there was danger present. 

I still felt uneasy when I returned home the next morning to check on things but everything seemed fine and the alarms weren't going off. The power company updated the date my service would return; the next evening at 11 PM. I gathered up more provisions and headed back to Dad's. 

That evening when I returned to check on things, I noticed that a mildewy smell was starting to set in.  By this time, it was so cold and damp in my apartment that I could see my breath.  The power company was now saying the power might not be back at 11 PM the next evening but the afternoon on the following day. They ran into unforeseen issues. I was losing my patience. 

After four long days, the lights came back on, the furnace kicked in and I was able to return home.  And yes, I shake my head and wonder why I go through this year after year for the last 41 years. You're probably wondering why anyone would choose to stay in a climate like this when there are so many other places to live that aren't buried in snow or covered in ice for half the year. Cape Breton summer, that's why! I endure this every winter because I know a Cape Breton summer awaits after the long cold and darkness.  If you've never experienced a Cape Breton summer, you should.  And maybe you'll never leave once you experience those long hot days by the sea and warm summer nights that are like none other I've experienced anywhere else. But you better have some long johns, some patience and some thick skin!

Chasing Down an Elusive Snowy Owl

It happened about six years ago.  I opened the door to my backyard and something caught my eye on top of the garage. In an instant, that "thing" spread its massive wings and flew right over me.  It was the first time I had ever seen a snowy owl.

Also known as Arctic owls, these beautiful creatures have been occasionally spotted around Cape Breton, much to the delight of the few who manage to catch a rare sighting. The one I spotted six years ago was the last time I saw one until this year and I was not alone in capturing the beauty that is these beautiful owls. I'm sure this winter must have been a record one for snowy owl sightings.  It seems everyone was seeing them everywhere!

When I first heard that an owl was spotted at Dominion Beach, I got my camera ready, bundled up and headed there to try and capture a photo.  I walked the entire length of that beach in the freezing cold and, alas, did not spot any owls.   

Over the next few days, I heard of more sightings around the area.  Each time I heard an owl was spotted in an area, I'd head there with my camera only to find out that the owl had departed the area, presumably to go hunting for its lunch.  

I continued to keep my eyes peeled for a sighting as I went about my daily duties.  About a week after I heard about the first sighting, I heard that people were spotting an owl on the cliffs at the bottom of a street not too far from where I lived.   

I drove to the spot, parked my car and got out to scan the coastline for something white. There was no snow at that time so the owl wouldn't be hard to spot.  I could see something further down the coast that looked out of place. It was white.  It looked owl-shaped. I got out my binoculars but I still couldn't tell.  I knew it was worth checking out though.  I walked slowly along the shore so I wouldn't scare whatever it was, if it was even anything. I figured with my luck, it was probably just a plastic bag that got stuck in some bushes. It was very still but I know owls can be very still.  At one point, I came to a dip in the terrain and was unable to see that spot anymore. When it leveled out again, I found myself almost face to face with a beautiful snowy owl. 

I stayed back so I wouldn't spook the owl, snapped a few shots and sat and watched him for a few minutes. He didn't seem scared of me, even made eye contact with me. So, was all that time spent chasing him down worth it?  Indeed it was!

later that week, I spotted snowy owls twice at Dominion Beach. One flew right over my head and landed on a dune on the other side of the sandbar and another one was perched on the bridge as I was walking back to my car. What a treat to have three snowy owl sightings in one week!

 

 

It's a Year Into this S**t Show...How's Everyone Doing?

Since the start of this pandemic, I've been cursing it and everything negative it caused.  The isolation, the not being able to see friends and family due to the travel ban and Canadian Travel restrictions, the loss of work, the loss of money, the not being able to travel due to travel restrictions and the constant bombardment of Covid-19 this and Covid-19 that.

Yes, it's been rough in so many ways, but I'm starting to see the good that has come out of it.  It's been almost a year since the lockdowns, isolation and mass covid travel restrictions became a part of everyday life.  The first few weeks was a constant string of bad news.  First my beloved cat Captain Jack passed away followed by the news that the project I was working on was stopping along with my income.  Than the worse shooting in Canadian history right here in my quiet, peaceful home province of Nova Scotia.  All this combined with the bad news coming from all corners of the world made me anxious and even depressed.  

As the months passed, there were ups and downs, goods and bads and all sorts of emotions and hurdles and new developments.  But it's only recently that I've started to realize that, despite all the bad, some really good things came out of all this. I should have seen it earlier.  I should have embraced those doors that were opening up to me.  I should have appreciated the things that were transpiring.  But my eyes were closed and my brain was focused on the changes, the losses, this new normal that wasn't at all normal...at least not the normal I was used to.  But who defines normal anyway 

I feel like I've been more fortunate than a lot of people on one front.  While many people I know were upset because they couldn't visit restaurants, bars and movie theatres anymore, nothing changed for me.  I don't go to any of those places often anyway.  I am an outdoors person. I will pick a picnic in the woods or a hike along the shore over a restaurant meal or movie theater outing any day! 

I don't know when it hit. I don't it hit all at once. It was a gradual thing.  I started to lighten up a bit, think a little more positively and that's when things started happening.  Or maybe it was me just becoming so comfortable with all the negativity around me that It started feeling normal enough for me to start thinking straight again.  Sounds weird but everything is weird these days.  I still can't make any sense out of anything anymore but at least, I am moving forward in some way and I'm not in the very dark place I was a few months ago. Loss of employment and sense of purpose will do that to a person...but a new-found purpose can do wonders for a person.  

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I'm currently freelancing full-time now.  No, I'm not getting rich of it.  Not even close.  But, I'm doing something I love, I'm filling my time with purposeful work and I'm making enough to get by.  I also must say that I am quite proud of myself for remaining independent and for being resourceful.  Not many people can say that they have a talent outside of their regular work that they can use in a pinch to survive.  I feel very grateful for that.  My writing was once a hobby but now it's a lifeline!  So many new doors have opened up, many new connections have been made and I've learned so many new things!  The best thing is I'm still writing about travel despite the mass travel restrictions.  While I'm not writing about my own travel since I'm under Canadian travel restrictions, I'm writing travel content for other sites.  In my free time, I take courses and work on my social media channels and, from time-to-time, I write a blog filled with updates that will soon turn onto blogs about my own travels. Hoping  we can return to normal soon as I have many trips and adventures planned once the travel ban is lifted!

As for current adventures, we finally got enough snow here so I could get a day of snowshoeing in.  I Don't know how long the snow will last with all the rain and freezing rain we seem to get in the winters now but if I get out once, that's better than nothing since I didn't get out at all last year.  I stay pretty close to home for the most part though.  Every few days, I'll walk at Dominion Beach to see if any new and interesting debris washed up and to visit my friends the foxes, seals and eagles.  I'm itching to go further and do more but until Covid takes a hike, I'm content getting some things done around home! That's one good thing about the travel restrictions - I'm spending time completing some projects around home that I would otherwise not get to!

An Island of Diverse Weather

Here on Cape Breton Island, we are lucky to have four distinct seasons.  Not so lucky when the weather is extreme, as is the case during winter blizzards or fall hurricanes. That being said, the weather is quite comfortable between the months of April and October.  If you want to travel here during the best weather, mid-July to late September is your window, especially if you want to swim in the ocean.  Most days during that window are nice with high temperatures in the mid-20's but fog does have a tendency to move in from time to time.  It usually appears late at night and burns off in the morning.  While it makes the air a bit chilly and damp, it also creates great photo opportunities!

Even a blanket of fog can't take away from the beauty of the world-famous Cabot Trail.

Not doing a Whole lot of Snowshoeing but I did Find a Shipwreck

So summer is long gone and winter is almost over here in Cape Breton.  Usually winter seems to drag on but since we didn't have a particularly bad one, it flew by quite quick.  I think I only shoveled three times.  We did, however, have a lengthy cold spell with temperatures going into the minus teens for a few weeks.  Occasionally, we got a break from that extreme cold to enjoy a few hours of above zero temperatures only for it to freeze over again and provide us with a lovely (and dangerous) coating of ice.

So what's new in my world?  Well, I will be writing a new column for my local newspaper with the first article being published this Saturday, which also happens to be my birthday!  It's a column focusing on the past, present and future of my local community.  I have lots of ideas but I'm also hoping the people of New Waterford and area will contact me with some ideas.  So if you live in the area and have a business or event you would like to promote, I'd be glad to write about it.

Another very interesting thing happened back in November.  A monster storm caused massive damage to Dominion Beach (again).  I didn't want to see the damage but I had to know just how bad it was.  It was bad.  Debris everywhere, sand dunes flattened, the boardwalk severely damaged.  I walked the entire length of the beach that day like I always do.  It was hard walking with the debris everywhere but I slowly made my way down the beach where I found something that had washed ashore in the storm.  I later found out it was a piece of a very old ship.  The brass nails are an indication that it is quite old and the shape of the wood matches that of an old ship.  I sent some pictures off the a couple of local museums and someone should be out to look at it in the spring.  It's currently covered in ice and snow but still visible. This winter, I also spotted more seals on the beach than usual and the foxes and eagles are still around, seemingly unbothered by the changes to their beach.

So besides a sick cat and an idea for a new blog project, not much else is new.  I've doing a lot of writing and working on creative projects instead of spending time outdoors as it's too icy to be walking most of the time.  The lack of snow certainly makes it hard to do any snowshoeing! 





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Today I got to See an Ice Wall that was Created by an Ice Tsunami

I'm not usually one to follow the crowds but every once and a while, something will make the news and intrigue me enough to go check it out.  So when my dad called and asked if I would like to go for a drive to Irish Vale to see the Ice Wall, I jumped at the opportunity.

Now you are probably wondering "what is the Ice Wall".  If you live anywhere in Atlantic Canada, you probably heard about this phenomena on the evening news.  If you live anywhere else, you might have no idea what I'm talking about.

The Ice wall is basically....an ice wall.  It's a wall along the shore made up of ice that piled up.  At one point, the bay was frozen but a fluctuation in temperatures caused it to melt and break up and this, combined with some high winds and surf, pushed that ice to the shore where it piled up.  Actually it piled up to an impressive height as you can see in the pictures.

We arrived mid-afternoon expecting to see a few people there as it was a sunny, mild Sunday.  I was quite surprised to see that there was quite a lot of people.  Possibly close to a hundred or more.  Cars were lined up all along the highway.  We parked further down and found a path leading down onto the shoreline.  The well-beaten path in the snow was an indication of just how many people had gone through there in the week or so since the ice appeared.

Many of these people tere were parents with small children who were excitedly climbing the giant ice wall.  At one point dad asked me to climb to the top so he could get a picture.  I had good hiking boots on so I figured "why not, the kids are climbing up there just fine, so I can do it".  Not a chance.  While the ice looks like giant chunks of hard snow, it is in fact chunks of pure, slipper ice.  One step up was enough before I nearly fell.  I have no idea how those kids were running and jumping around without falling. 

We walked the entire length of the wall, which was more impressive in person than in the pictures I had been seeing on Facebook and Twitter all week.  Was it worth the drive?  It definitely was in my opinion.  Not only do I love a Sunday drive in the country, I love to see and experience new things I can take pictures of and write about.  If you don't get the chance to visit to ice wall this time around, apparently, it has happened before in that area.  About 20 years ago, an ice tsunami, which is what the media calls this phenomena, pushed ice on shore to form a wall just like the one that is in Irish Vale now.  

It's Been a While.....

Yes I know it's been a while...months in fact.  I was called back to work back in September and have been flat-out busy since.  I know, I know.....enough with the excuses.  All that matters is that I'm still around and still posting.  I just took an extended break.  I also didn't really have much to post lately as I have not been going many places or doing much due to having to work full time.  One thing I do look forward to in the winter is getting outdoors on those rare, nice days especially if an outing includes some snowshoeing! 

I was a bit late getting out this year for my first snowshoe hike.  The first weekend in January was the first full weekend I had off work since November as I've been diving into the optional overtime again.  Might as well take the hours and the money when you can, right?  Anyway, we received a little more than a light dusting of snow that weekend and Saturday morning the temperatures were just above zero and the sun was shining. I didn't want to travel too far on my first run of the year so I opted to try out a trail near my house that I had never hiked in winter before. 

I grew up in Lingan and played near this trail as a child and hiked it in the warmer months many times since.  The area has changed over the years.  The old house that was there is long gone and the one that replaced it has since been torn down and the land sold to Nova Scotia Power who have a power generating station nearby.  A windfarm with several windmills has gone up in the last dozen years.  Other than these few changes, the trail is still intact and it's still a beautiful area to spend some time outdoors.   

That particular weekend was much anticipated and I planned in advance that I would spend the majority of it outdoors no matter what the weather was like.  Fortunately, it turned out to be quite nice both days.  On Saturday morning, I called my dad, who also loves the outdoors and has recently taken up snowshoeing, and headed to Lingan.  It's only five minutes away so it wasn't a big adventure like I usually write about; the adventure would be seeing the area under a blanket of freshly fallen snow for the first time.

There were no cars in the parking area.  A good sign.  I like the trails to myself and when it comes to snowshoeing, I like to be the first one to break in the fresh snow.  And I was the first one that day because the only tracks on that trail were those of some bunny rabbits who must have been hopping around looking for food the night before.  Perfect!  We slipped on our snowshoes and bundled up and set out towards the narrow path that led to the windmills and the ocean.  The snow was perfect in every way.  Untouched by the dirt of the nearby road and untouched by anyone or anything except those bunnies and some squirrels who must have been munching on the bushes as their crumbs were scattered in little piles in various places.  We came to spot that I instantly fell in love with; a perfectly sheltered place inside the low branches of a spruce tree.  Protected from the wind and almost warm enough to lay down and take a nap. 

I had no idea how long it would take to reach the clearing by the ocean since it had been a while since I took that trail and I was usually walking, not snowshoeing.  We continued along, stopping from time to time to relax while enjoy the pristine, white surroundings and the sounds of birds and wind gently rustling the trees.  I didn't need to bundle up as much as I did because I quickly became overheated and had to remove some layers.  It took about 40 minutes to reach the clearing where the wind turbines were.  As we exited the thick forested, the terrain and sounds changed.  All of a sudden, the wind picked up, the temperature dropped and my layers went back on.  The calm rustling of trees was replaced by the raging Atlantic ocean smashing into the cliffs.  The blades of the windmills made a loud whooshing sound as they turned in the breeze.  The scenery was now that of  a large clearing ending where the Atlantic Ocean started.  The old barracks stood on the edge of the cliff, long abandoned by its original tenants but still used by partying teenagers judging by the broken beer bottles and graffiti spray painted all over the inside and outside.  As I stared out over the ocean, watching a large cargo ship go by, I spotted something odd in my peripheral vision; one of the windmills looked to be swaying dangerously in the wind.  None of the other ones looked to be swaying like this so I don't think it was my eyes playing tricks on me.  All I could think about was the fact that three of these massive things have fallen over in the last couple of years.  Perhaps that is why there are warning signs up in the area.  

We headed back the same way we came but reached the car sooner than anticipated.  We didn't stop for as many breaks and photo ops as we did going in so it only took half as long going back.  The whole hike took about two hours total.  I enjoyed it so much, I went back and did it again the next morning!

A Lovely Winter Day's Hike - Exploring a New-to-me Beach and Enjoying a Leisurely Stroll Through a Desolate Winter Wonderland

When it starts approaching the Christmas holidays, I know the long wilderness hikes are done for the year. It gets too busy during those last few nice days we sometimes get toward the end of December and it's usually too cold to go on very long hikes in January.

The last two winters here on Cape Breton Island have been hellish to put it mildly. The most snow seen in decades. And not just snow either; snow layered with ice and slush. Not very ideal for hiking. I don't think I hiked even once during those two winters. I spent most of those dreary, snowy days inside a gym on the dreadmill trying desperately to keep in shape. So having experienced two winters in a row like that, I just assumed this winter would be the same. Fortunately, so far, this winter has been quite pleasant.

New Year's Day signifies the end of a very busy time of year for me and that signifies the beginning of a more laid-back time of year that allows me more time to enjoy my favourite pastimes. On the first day of 2016, I checked the long range forecast to see if, by some miracle, the nice weather was predicted to hold up long enough to allow me to get outdoors before the arrival of the inevitable bad weather that was sure to come eventually. I wasn't holding high hopes that it would but lo and behold, the forecast showed sun and higher than normal temperatures for the next two weeks. Ideas for day hikes started flooding my brain. So many hikes I could do!

The first opportunity to embark on an outdoor winter adventure came a few days after New Year's Day. I awoke to a beautiful sunny day with fairly mild temperatures and no wind. I rounded up some winter hiking gear and jumped in the car and headed towards the Framboise area thinking I would do a hike on Morrison Beach, drive around looking for deer on the back roads and grab a coffee in St. Peter's. However, during that long early-morning drive, I decided to make the most of the day ahead...and
that day turned into a memorable winter adventure.

I heard mention of people hiking along the beach at Belfry Lake but never attempted it. According to my father, I was there as a child but since I have no recollection of that visit, a hike at Belfry would be a new experience for me and it was the perfect day to explore a new beach.
I turned onto a dirt road lined with beautiful homes owned by Europeans judging by the German last names on the mailboxes. Many Europeans, mostly from Germany and other central European countries, flocked to this area in recent years. I'm not sure why but I imagine it has something to do with getting away from their densely populated cities back home and escaping to the scenic, rugged and sparsely populated coast on Southern Cape Breton. And who can blame them?

I came to the end of the road and parked the car off to the side. I scanned the area; a rocky beach on one side, a lake on the other. I headed right to the beach and hiked toward a river that I hoped would be crossable if the tide was low enough. The air was very warm for that time of year. There was no wind so there wasn't even a spray coming off the ocean. It was like a spring day. I regretted wearing my long, heavy Colombia parka and thermal socks. Unfortunately, what I didn't have was waterproof boots to cross the river that blocked me from going any further. Had it been summer, I would have just taken my shoes off and walked or swam across. I headed back towards the car but kept going further down another section of beach while being watched by a couple of seals offshore.
I crossed over some dunes and came to the lake side where I took a little break to have a snack, skip some rocks in the lake and take some pictures. Just as I was standing up to continue along the lakeshore, I saw a large mass come out of the water and make a loud splash. Judging by the wake it left, it had to be something quite big. At first, I thought it was a beaver as they make lots of noise when they feel threatened. Otter was my next guess. However, when the mystery creature resurfaced and again made its presence known, it was revealed to be a seal. The curious little bugger who scared me half to death must have followed me all along the beach.

The hike at Belfry was supposed to take eight hours but since I only got an hour of hiking in there, I had to find somewhere else to hike so the day wouldn't be wasted. It's a long way to go to hike for only an hour especially on such a rare, nice day. I left Belfry and continued towards Framboise and turned off the highway again when I reached Crooked Lake Road.
The road leading to Crooked Lake is more populated than some of the other roads in that area and there are plenty of interesting dwellings along the way. A totem pole decorates the lawn of one resident and someone recently built my dream home - a log cabin overlooking the lake. The last time I tried to drive down crooked lake road a few weeks before in the late fall, it was so muddy I had to turn around and head back to the highway. This time, the ground was frozen and I was able to make it all the way to the beach. Well almost. The giant pool of water at the end of the road looked frozen but the ice turned out to be thinner than it looked. I heard the unmistakable sound of ice about to crack and just managed to back my front tires onto the dry ground when the ice gave way. I don't think it was very deep but probably deep enough to get stuck or even do some damage to my car. I didn't have enough room to turn around and face back towards the highway so I just backed the car off to the side and shoved the thoughts of having to make a 48-point-turn with a giant puddle in front of me, a steep embankment to a lake on one side of me and trees on the other side out of mind for the time being.
Light snow was falling but the late afternoon air was still warm with not a breath of wind when I started my hike along the Crooked Lake Beach. I love this beach. It's long and surrounded by steep cliffs that to me, look almost otherworldly compared to other beaches in the area. It's hard to say which beach along the south coast is my favourite but Crooked Lake is high on the list.

The surf was rough and the tide was coming in so I quickly made my way along the beach to a trail further down. The rocks I was walking on were freshly wet which meant the waves reached quite high just before my arrival. I tried to walk as quickly as possible to the little hill up to the grassy trail that lead through a section of woods and onto an old wood road. I turned to the left on that wood road and went deeper into the woods. Someone had very recently followed the same route as there was fresh footprints. Sometimes the footprints veered off into the woods where there were rabbit snares.

The last thing I thought I would happen upon was a house out there in the middle of nowhere but happen upon a house I did and what a house it was! I don't know who managed to build all the way in there but whoever they are, they built my dream house in my dream location. I didn't go beyond that point and turned back towards the main road as it was starting to get dark and the coyotes would soon be on the prowl.
Although the sky was quickly dimming into twilight, it was still easy to see due to the snow-covered ground which also made it easy to see the fresh prints that must have only appeared on the road a few minutes earlier. This alarmed me because there were no animal tracks on the road on the way in. My fears subsided after close inspection revealed the prints to be that of a deer. A few deer by the looks of it. A buck, a doe and a younger doe. I followed the tracks right to a fork in the road...an unexpected fork in the road; I thought that one road was it and it would lead me back to my car. I had no idea where the other road went but being the audacious, curious soul that I am (some might call a young lady who ventures off on a trail in the middle of nowhere in coyote country at dusk a little foolish), I did what any adventurous soul would do and I took the road unknown.

A very brief wave of anxiety came over me when I crested a steep hill and looked down to see that the road kept going as far as my eyes could see. The anxiety quickly subsided at the realization that this just meant I would be spending more time in the woods doing what I love most. I started to hear little rustles in the trees but the comfort of knowing those deer were close by and were not on the run, reassured me that there were no predators in the area.

I rounded a bend and almost abruptly, the road ended and I was back on the other old wood road that I started on. The unknown road must have been newly put in for cutting pulp. A few minutes after that, I was back on the main road and could see my car ahead in the distance. I had made a complete circle and although it was dark and lightly snowing and I had been walking for a few hours, I was sweating. I removed a couple of layers and threw them in the car but I didn't get in the driver's seat; I kept walking back toward the beach. This time I walked in the opposite direction. The snow was starting to subside and there was a faint twilight still left in the sky, enough to allow me to see the silhouettes of those steep cliffs and the cresting waves.
Earlier, I noticed a footpath going up the hill in the parking area. Yes, you know me well. Of course I followed it. It was steeper than it looked but the climb was worth it. What a view and it was evident that someone else once thought the same thing because there was a beautiful monument for a someone's dearly departed who once spent time there.

I didn't want the night to end. I regretted not taking my camping gear. Had it been in the trunk of the car, I think I would have built a fire and set up camp right there for the night. Would it be too cliché to say it was magical? Surreal? It was something. It was a night I won't soon forget.

The Framboise area always had a kinda creepy, spooky feel to it at night. It's remote, there are not a lot of people around, street lights are sparse and it's an old community with lots of abandoned Victorian houses, old graveyards and stories to go along with them. And speaking of old graveyards, there's one just off Crooked Lake Road. An old one from the 1800's. It's in the woods, it's not marked and it's no longer used but it's pretty easy to find if you know where to look. The headstones are still in decent shape and it's interesting to read them and see who they belonged to.

I heard voices nearby and started back to the car in case someone thought I was perusing the neighbourhood looking for an easy way to break into cabins. I paused for a minute in the middle of that dark road while giant white snowflakes fell around me and took in the utter stillness of that lonely country road. I could live in a place like that.