Return to the Hill

For the past decade or so, it seems winter on Cape Breton Island is hit or miss.  Sometimes it snows, other times it snows a lot and sometimes it doesn't snow at all.  The winter before last, we had a massive week-long snowstorm and I was able to do plenty of snowshoeing.  Last winter, I didn't use them once.  This winter, I had the chance to use them a few times as we had a pretty good winter as far as snow goes...and I got to snowshoe in some places I've never used my snowshoes before.  

This time I ventured to a familiar place that I haven't been to in a long, long time.  Back in the day when my bones were stronger and I didn't have a care in the world, I zoomed down the slopes of Ski Ben Eoin on skis.  This time, I explored some of their backcountry snowshoe trails on snowshoes and I got to do it at night under a full moon! 

Driving into the parking lot at my old stomping grounds was like stepping back in the past.  It seemed to be very close to how I remember it way back when and I love places like that.  Places I can be away from for many years and they're still the same when I return years later. 

I headed up the chairlift to the top of the mountain where I headed off into the forest.  The trail was clear and well-maintained but there was enough snow for the snowshoeing to be enjoyable.  Sometimes, groomed trails are just too groomed to really enjoy them and it's more like walking than snowshoeing.  I was surprised by how many trails there were and how far back I was able to venture away from civilization.  There were no lights except for the light of that giant moon shining down.  There's something about the forest on a crisp winter's night especially under a full moon. I spent over an hour wandering the trails and returned to the main chalet via the ski hill itself.  Why take the chairlift down when you can snowshoe down the hill while admiring that amazing view over the Bras d'Or Lakes!  

The only changes I really noticed around the hill were that the names of some of the ski trails have changed and the T-bar lift is gone as far I can tell.  It was nice to be back there reminiscing about the days and nights I spent going up and down the mountain without a care in the world.  I think it was that period in my life that made me a winter-loving person even though I don't downhill ski anymore.  I'd like to try it though.  I keep saying "next year".  Maybe next year will be the year... 

 

Hiking and Learning about the History of Isle Madame

I love exploring Cape Breton. I like to think I am very knowledgeable about the island and its history and that's mostly true since I've explored every corner of it for the last 40-some years...but excluding one region, which for some reason, I've never really explored much at all.  I'm talking about Isle Madame and the southernmost coast of Cape Breton Island. 

I try to go to as many of the community events hosted by the Celtic Colours International Festival each October.  It just so happens that a tour I've been wanting to do for several years was finally available on a day that I was off work. 

The tour, Guiding Lights of Isle Madame, takes guests on a driving tour (with some hiking involved) of Isle Madame and its little communities with a focus on the historic lighthouses that once guided ships through the area's waterways.  

I arrived at the meeting spot in Lennox Passage Provincial Park and embarked on a three-hour adventure to explore an area that was pretty new to me.  Along the way, I met some people from all over Canada and the United States, I learned the history of the region and its lighthouses, I saw some spectacular scenery and I got enough of a taste of Isle Madame to guide me on my future adventures of the island.  And there will be more trips to the area for sure!

 It was still early after the tour and I didn't want to go straight home after traveling all that distance.  I called my friend in St. Peters to see if she wanted to go for a coffee or a hike.  We met in Louisdale where I left my car and drove with her in hers.  Instead of staying in the area, we drove to Port Hawkesbury about 30 minutes away.  It was raining when we arrived so we grabbed a coffee and parked at the look-off looking out over the harbour and chatted for a while.

When the rain let up, we hiked several trails on the outskirts of town. I love hiking in places where I've never hiked before and I have to say, these knew-to-me hikes were very nice and well-maintained.  The fall colours were in full bloom, a gentle breeze rustled the trees and the sun peaked through the clouds before a rain shower hit again just before we got back to the car. 

I was exhausted on the drive back to Louisdale.  I stopped at Tim's in St. Peters for a caffeinated pick-me-up and made the long drive along Route 4 and the Bras d'Or Lakes.  Another day of exploring my beautiful island done until next time!

Summer Has Arrived in Cape Breton!

 

Outdoor Adventures, Sunburns and Bug Bites 

Enjoying some Hiking in the first Days of Summer Before it gets too Hot

Summer is finally here on Cape Breton Island but it's still cool enough to enjoy a few hikes before it gets too hot and my outings turn into lazy beach days swimming in the cool Atlantic Ocean rather than days trekking through the woods in the hot sun. 

Hiking in the summer is doable but the combination of heat, sun and bugs can make it unbearable at times.  I prefer to save my big hikes for the late spring and fall.  Recently I embarked on two amazing hikes; one to a location I had never hiked before and the other to a location I haven't hiked in many years and have been longing to get back to.

But First, Lunch

The first hike was supposed to be to the place that I had been before but that day turned out to be too windy for a coastal hike.  I met my friend in the parking lot of the church in Grand River, Richmond County.  Past Gabarus, Forchu and Framboise but before Point Michaud and St. Peter's for those of you are vaguely familiar with the area.  For those of you who aren't, it's in southern part of Cape Breton Island in an area off-the-beaten-tourist-path. 

We turned onto a remote gravel road and parked by a very old farmhouse because it looked like a nice spot to have our lunch before heading out on the hike. We sat near the weather-worn steps of the old homestead.  

The house had to be close to 150 years old. I doubt anyone has been inside since the family packed up and vacated it many, many moons ago, no doubt for better employment opportunities in a big city somewhere in New England, Ontario or western Canada. Perhaps their grandchildren and great-grand-children don't even know the old property still exists.  The treasures they would find within!  A part of their heritage if only they knew about it! After tea and sandwiches, we walked around the old property and found some interesting old farming equipment and some things we weren't quite sure what they were. 

 

Exploring a New-to-me Trail

The trailhead for the hike of the day was only a short distance up this gravel road.  We parked and hiked into the forest.  I had no idea how long the trail was and there really wasn't any point in asking my friend because every trail is "just a short one" even if it's 10 or 20 kilometers long. I was ok with that.  I had nowhere to be, I had nothing planned for that evening and I was just itching to spend a day in the woods.  After the long winter and the stress of the pandemic, this was long overdue! I didn't care if it took two hours or 20 hours, I was game. 

We walked. And walked some more. All the while catching up on gossip and what has been going on in our lives since we last embarked on a hike the previous fall.  The weather was ideal for hiking.  Warm enough to not need a jacket and cool enough to be comfortable. There was a lovely, steady breeze that kept the flies at bay and the odd light rain shower which were welcome refreshments. 

Finding Paradise By A Lake

Eventually we arrived at a lake where we thought we would sit and enjoy a cold beer. There was nowhere comfortable to sit and the flies were bad near the water so we moved on to the next one.  The next lake was perfect!  There was a little shelter with some seats and a nice breeze that kept the flies away.  

There was a slight but constant ripple on the lake and a haze that the sun's rays just barely poked through.  The trees rustled in that gentle breeze and the sound lulled me into a relaxed state.  The beer also helped. The stillness of the world around me in that moment was so peaceful and the sounds were like the ones you hear on those relaxing yoga soundtracks that city dwellers meditate to after spending 2 hours in rush hour city traffic after a long day at work...but this was the real thing . 

There was no sign of the owners of the nearby boat ramp or the little shelter we were occupying. I'm sure if they magically appeared, they wouldn't mind two women sitting down for a cold one. Around here, they'd probably pull out a chair, start a fire, take out some guitars and invite us to stick around for some more.  But, we were fine just the way we were and for about an hour, we just sat there and took in as much of those sights and sounds as we could. 

We walked for a few more kilometers before reaching an old building perched up high on an embankment.  If we weren't really looking at everything so intently, we might have missed it.  It was dark-coloured and tucked behind some big trees. My friend tried to access it from one end and found a way in.  I went to the other side to check it out but got stuck in some trees and couldn't go any further.  It seemed to be some sort of old workshop.  Like, really old.  Perhaps over 100 years old. I'm not too keen on entering old buildings like that.  I'm always afraid they floor will give out!  I passed on the opportunity to go inside.  

 

The Home Stretch

We reached the third lake on this hike and took a little break before finishing the last leg of the trail. It was after 6 in the evening when we got back to the car.  The flies were just starting to bite and a heavy rain shower was moving in.  Just in time.  

We parted ways but headed in the same direction.  Instead of leaving the way I came, I took the long way home and made a detour through St. Peter's where I grabbed a Tim's coffee and took my time driving home along the Bras d'Or Lakes. Midway home, I started feeling a burning sensation in my shoulders and my skin was hot to touch.  I pulled over to inspect my "injuries". Sunburn. Great. My advice to you: wear sunscreen when hiking even if it's cloudy and drizzly!

 

A Hike Through the Mabou Highlands and an Evening Spent on A Lovely Beach I Never Knew Existed

I first heard about the Cape Mabou Highlands Hiking Trails about 2 years ago and finally got the chance to try out these trails for the first time only recently.  Now I know more about Mabou than I thought imaginable.  For one, I know it's a lot bigger than I originally thought and I know it's more than just the home of the famous Rankins and the ever-popular Red Shoe Pub.  Mabou is mountains, beaches, wildlife, trails and scenery I didn't even know we had on Cape Breton Island...you know, that island I thought I knew like the back of my hands?  Turns out, there is still so much to see on this island and I've made a promise to myself to make this the summer that I see many of those things I haven't seen yet.

I left early that morning to give myself enough time to find the trailhead and to also check out another trail in Margaree along the way.  The other trail was said to be located in Margaree Centre and although I found Margaree Centre after more than a few wrong turns (Margaree is a confusing place), and foundwhat I thought was the area of the trail but I was unable to find an actual trail.  I didn't want to spend too much time looking for it and the place was like a ghost town so I backtracked back to the main road and continued toward Mabou...and took a wrong turn.  When I realized my mistake, I was already a half hour off course.  No big deal.  I just turned around and headed back to the turn off where I made the mistake and found the right road.

I made a quick stop near the Glenora Distillery to check my GPS and figure out where to go to find the first trailhead before turning onto the gravel Glenora Falls Road.  I followed it until I reached a wind turbine. All the directions I read online mentioned this wind turbine and basically stated that once you reach it, the trailhead is nearby and easy to find.  Well, I didn't find it.  The road started to get bad and I didn't feel comfortable going further nor parking my car in such a remote place.  I opted instead to eat my lunch under the giant wind turbine and search for the other trailhead.

Back on the main highway, I drove for about ten minutes before turning onto another road and driving through an area of the island I didn't know existed.  All this time, I thought Mabou was just one road with a strip of shops and houses along one stretch and here before me was a huge area with fishing wharves, beautiful summer homes, beaches and grassy hills.  I enjoyed the scenery along that road until it seemingly came to an end.  By seemingly I mean the wide two-lane road suddenly turned into a one-lane road that was riddled with potholes.  I turned around thinking I had missed the turn off.  Some people were outside doing yard work so I asked them if they knew where I needed to go.  Turns out I was going the right way all along. I turned around and went back to where the road seemingly ended as that was where the trailhead was supposed to be.  Sure enough, I ventured down that one lane road and rounded a bend to be met face-to-face with the signs indicating where the Cape Mabou Highlands Trail started.  Or I guess I should say trails because there were several and I hate when I come upon a trailhead that gives me more than one option where to go because that means I have to make a decision which way to go!

I decided to take the path that led to a scenic look-off.  Can't go wrong with scenic look-offs.  It was also shorter than the other one that would have taken me into the late evening and was best saved for another day.  I was only out of the car a few seconds and still applying sunscreen when the flies started coming around me.  Dozens, than hundreds and than so many that I could barely stand up straight from swatting at them.  I applied some bug spray with that sunscreen.  Not a pleasant combination but necessary to keep my sanity.

I set out on a fairly-well-groomed trail and wasn't a minute into the hike when something moving in the bush startled me.  A frightened partridge can make a lot of noise that can be easily mistaken for something bigger.  There were some indications that something bigger had been lurking on the trail fairly recently as there were footprints and some scuffed dirt and holes in various places.  Most likely a deer.  Possibly a moose.  I was hoping not a bear.  The only other living things I met on that trail were some fellow humans coming from the look-off area just as I was walking in.  A mailbox-looking-thingy caught my attention as I was pushed to the side to allow the other passed.  My curiosity revealed a guestbook.  I signed my name and browsed the others to see where they were from.  It still always surprises me when I see signatures of people from Europe, Asia and everywhere in between.

I wasn't expecting the views on this trail to rival those in the Highlands of Cape Breton but that is exactly what they did.  I was shocked and than surprised to learn that these amazing views existed without me knowing all along.  Lobster boats hauling traps, colorful homes on the peninsula below, a sandy beach and the blue ocean all laid out before me in what looked like a giant painting.  How on earth did this remain off my radar for so long?  Perhaps I've been focusing my undivided attention on one part of the island for too long (I usually end up in the Northern region of the island in the Highlands) and its time to start exploring other areas that I'm less familiar with.
From that point on, the trail got steeper and more difficult.  I came to a junction that gave me two options; 1) a shorter trail that would take me back around to my car and 2) a longer one that went who knows where.  It was too late in the day to even consider that longer trail so the shorter won.  I planned to return to do the rest of the trails anyway.

Old foundations started to become visible along the path so I stopped to investigate.  Not much was left of whatever it had once been and there looked to be some sort of stone wall along part of the trail. It seemed like such a remote place for there to once be a homestead but that may very well be what it once was.

I was descending a steep incline when the unthinkable happened.  Well, the unthinkable for a hiker who didn't pack an extra pair of shoes in her backpack. The souls of my shoes came off.  I felt it in the left foot first.  A feeling of something getting trapped under my foot and swinging back.  I tied it back on with some orange ribbon I had in my pack and continued on.  I felt the same sensations in the right foot next.  That one stayed mostly intact for the rest of the hike.  My band-aid job on the other shoe lasted until I was able to see my car through the trees.  My local shoe-repair guy said he could bring them back to almost new for 25 bucks.  Beats having to brave the mall in the summer (I hate the mall all the time but even more in the summer) to buy a new pair.

I always thought Mabou was kind of a small, drive-through-too-fast-and-you-might-miss-it kind of place on the side of a rural highway in the middle of nowhere.  That was before I heard about the Mabou Highlands Trails and the beautiful beach that is located in the community.  I found the directions to this beach online and found it quite easily.  West Mabou Beach Provincial Park is another place on this small island full of secrets that I, the non-stop adventurer and off-the-beaten-path-location-seeker.  And not only does the park feature a long, sandy beach, it also features quite a few hiking trails which I plan to check out in more detail the next time I am in the area.  It was getting late in the evening and I was getting hungry so I took a walk down a part of the beach and sat with my feet in the sand before heading back to the main part of town to try and find something to eat.

My heart was set on having dinner at the Red Shoe Pub.  That's the famous pub in Mabou owned by the famous Rankin sisters who happen to be from Mabou.  I found a parking spot in the lot across the street and checked out the menu online before entering.  I didn't need to see anything past the item called "Pair of Shoes" which sounded delicious.  I crossed the street and opened the door....to see that there were no tables left and about a dozen people waiting to be seated.  Disappointed, I walked back to my car and headed to the nearby town of Inverness to see what I could find to eat there.

It still being June (which is considered low season here) and also being late in the evening meant not many restaurants were open.  I thought I would have to settle on pizza to-go-and-eat-it-by-the-beach (not that there is anything wrong with takeout at the beach) when I noticed an "open" sign on a little diner with a pizza shop attached.   I ordered a veggie wrap, ate it up as quickly as I could and headed to lovely Inverness Beach for an evening stroll along the beautiful boardwalk just as the sun was starting to set over the ocean.  The end of another epic day on The Cape.

Sunset at Inverness Beach...The most beautiful sunsets on the island!

The Story Behind my Renowned Hiking Stick

I do a lot of hiking and love it. In fact, I think I'm addicted to the thrill of finding new trails to explore. Despite my love of hiking, surprisingly, I'm not a gear hoarder. I have the basics - comfortable hiking boots, comfortable clothes, a few rain items, some first aid and emergency items for long hikes, a trusty backpack and my coyote stick. Yes you read that right. My coyote stick. It's a walking stick that doubles as a weapon should a pack of hungry coyotes surround me. No I don't go around beating coyotes with sticks. I love all animals. I would only ever hurt an animal if it were to defend my life.
Now, to you, this stick might simply sound like a regular old walking stick. Nothing could be further from the truth. This is no ordinary walking stick. This walking stick has a history, a story. So since my coyote stick is such a big part of my hikes that I write about on this blog, I thought I would officially introduce it to my readers and tell the world the story about how it came to be.

I can't remember exactly when I acquired my renowned walking stick but I think it's safe to guess it was around 2010 because it was after I moved back to Cape Breton from Newfoundland. It was given to me by my father and it was given to my father by beavers. Yes, that's right. Beavers. Well, they didn't actually give the stick to my father; he took it from them. There were several sticks involved in the infamous beaver damn stick heist but no beavers were harmed and no beaver dams were damaged during this heist. I doubt the beavers even noticed a few missing sticks out of the thousands strewn over their property.

Me and my cherished Coyote Stick getting ready to head out for a weekend of Camping

I assume you are at least vaguely familiar with beavers and their extraordinary carpentry skills. To put it into perspective for you, the world's largest beaver dam (which was only discovered fairly recently in Northern Alberta) is 850 meters long and can be seen from space. My dad was fishing in the Framboise area of Cape Breton when he stumbled across a much smaller (but still fairly big) beaver dam that was under construction. To us humans, we think of a beaver dam as just a pile of sticks haphazardly piled together to stop water flowage. To beavers, dams are more than just homes, they're fortresses. There were hundreds of perfectly sanded down sticks sitting near the bank of the river the day my dad stumbled upon that beaver dam. The beavers "sand" these sticks with their teeth, not sand paper. (Thought I should clarify that just in case.) Dad picked up one of these freshly-sanded sticks and instantly thought "what a good walking stick this would make". Not often does one stumble across hundreds of perfectly-made walking sticks in the middle of nowhere that look and feel better than most of the ones you find in stores...and cheaper too! So he grabbed one for me as well. All that was needed before the stick was ready to be used was a coat of varnish to spruce it up and a few decorative touches to personalize it. With these final touches complete, dad presented the walking stick to me. It comes with me on every hike and also protects me against coyotes while walking up my long, rural driveway and protects me in my car in the unlikely event of an attempted carjacking or robbery. I have no doubt this stick would do some major damage if it ever had to come to that!

A number of years later, my coyote stick is still going strong and I consider it to be one of my most prized possessions. Other people are intrigued by it too. I've had a number of folks stop me on the trails to comment on what a nice walking stick I have and to enquire as to where they can buy one. Just recently, I overheard a little boy ask his father "did you see that cool walking stick that girl had" as I hiked passed them. I tell people the truth when they ask me where I bought it. I tell them it was made by beavers. And they look at me like I have ten heads. I joke around with dad that he should start a beaver sweat shop and sell the sticks for profit. Judging by the number of people interested in my walking stick, he'd be rich in no time!

Tried Out One of those Bike Trails Finally!

So remember those bike trails I mentioned a few posts back? The ones that I heard were in this area but have never seen? Well I found one of them the other day and tried it out. I left home and took the same route I always do but decided to go a bit further than usual since time was allowing me to do so and I wanted to go somewhere different. When I reached the point where I usually turn around, I decided to go to the end of the street to see where it went and noticed a trail that went alongside the cliffs next to the ocean. I had no idea where the trail would lead me but decided to check it out. The trail was long and just as I was about to turn around and head back home, I noticed that I could see the lighthouse not far away in the distance. I decided to keep going until I reached it but the trail ended on the beach below the lighthouse. I had to walk the bike across the rocky beach and carry it over some giant boulders and boggy areas but finally made it to another trail on the other side that led directly to the lighthouse! I stuck around for a while and took some pictures and watched several boats maneuver in and out of Sydney Harbor. It was getting late when I finally headed for home so I took the road back out of fear of possibly meeting coyotes on the trails but I will be out again soon looking for more new places to go riding very soon! http://marinas.com/view/lighthouse/1480_Low_Point_Lighthouse_New_Victoria_NS