Hiking and Learning about the History of Isle Madame

I love exploring Cape Breton. I like to think I am very knowledgeable about the island and its history and that's mostly true since I've explored every corner of it for the last 40-some years...but excluding one region, which for some reason, I've never really explored much at all.  I'm talking about Isle Madame and the southernmost coast of Cape Breton Island. 

I try to go to as many of the community events hosted by the Celtic Colours International Festival each October.  It just so happens that a tour I've been wanting to do for several years was finally available on a day that I was off work. 

The tour, Guiding Lights of Isle Madame, takes guests on a driving tour (with some hiking involved) of Isle Madame and its little communities with a focus on the historic lighthouses that once guided ships through the area's waterways.  

I arrived at the meeting spot in Lennox Passage Provincial Park and embarked on a three-hour adventure to explore an area that was pretty new to me.  Along the way, I met some people from all over Canada and the United States, I learned the history of the region and its lighthouses, I saw some spectacular scenery and I got enough of a taste of Isle Madame to guide me on my future adventures of the island.  And there will be more trips to the area for sure!

 It was still early after the tour and I didn't want to go straight home after traveling all that distance.  I called my friend in St. Peters to see if she wanted to go for a coffee or a hike.  We met in Louisdale where I left my car and drove with her in hers.  Instead of staying in the area, we drove to Port Hawkesbury about 30 minutes away.  It was raining when we arrived so we grabbed a coffee and parked at the look-off looking out over the harbour and chatted for a while.

When the rain let up, we hiked several trails on the outskirts of town. I love hiking in places where I've never hiked before and I have to say, these knew-to-me hikes were very nice and well-maintained.  The fall colours were in full bloom, a gentle breeze rustled the trees and the sun peaked through the clouds before a rain shower hit again just before we got back to the car. 

I was exhausted on the drive back to Louisdale.  I stopped at Tim's in St. Peters for a caffeinated pick-me-up and made the long drive along Route 4 and the Bras d'Or Lakes.  Another day of exploring my beautiful island done until next time!

Exploring the Area Around the Louisbourg Lighthouse

While the little town of Louisbourg on Cape Breton Island is mostly known for being home to the Fortress of Louisbourg, which is a top attractions on the island, it's also home to another popular attraction.  If you travel to Louisbourg to visit the fortress, I highly recommend you make some time to also visit The Louisbourg Lighthouse.  

The Lighthouse itself is active to this day and is the third lighthouse to be located in this location.  The current structure was built on the site that was once home to the oldest lighthouse in Canada which was built in the 1730s.  Ruins from the original and subsequent lighthouses are still visible today.  

Also on site are a picnic area, scenic look-offs and a 2-kilometre hiking trail with ocean views, opportunities to view local wildlife and interpretive panels. 

Kidston Island, Baddeck - An Island within an Island

I've always had a fascination with islands, especially small ones that could be seen offshore but were remote and hard to access without a boat. I'm not sure if this fascination comes from the fact that I grew up on an island or because the things that are most out-of-reach are the ones that fascinate us most. All I know is whenever I spot an island offshore or in the middle of a lake or bay, I immediately want to find a way to get to it. But when it comes to Kidston Island in Baddeck, I don't know why I only made a trip to the island for the first time this past week.

I am very familiar with the town of Baddeck. I've spent many summer days visiting the museums, eating in the great restaurants, sailing on the Bras D'or Lakes and shopping in the unique retail shops lining the main street. One thing I never did was visit Kidston Island and I'm not sure why. It fits my criteria for being an explore-worthy destination - its an island, it has a beach, its deserted except for tourists going back and forth and it's fairly easy to get to. Maybe being too accessible made it seem less exciting and less of a challenge.

A recent article in my local newspaper about Kidston Island grabbed my attention and peaked my interest. The article was about the free shuttle that brings people back and forth to the island via a small pontoon boat. This free shuttle has been offered by the Baddeck Lions Club for the last 61 years and the service recently ran into some trouble. In the end, the service stayed and for now, the Lions Club continues to shuttle passengers back and forth to the island on a daily basis during peak season.

The decision to make the hour-long drive to Baddeck to visit Kidston Island came spur-of-the-moment. It was a beautiful sunny day and the restlessness that comes with being confined to the house got to me so off I went on a mini-adventure for the afternoon. The pontoon boat wasn't hard to find. There are signs pointing visitors to its location which is to the right of the main wharf on the Baddeck waterfront. It wasn't there when I arrived but I only had to wait 3 or 4 minutes before the shuttle appeared at the dock. The small pontoon boat holds about a dozen people (all passengers are required to wear a life jacket) and it takes about 5 or 6 minutes to get to the island.

The first thing I saw upon arriving on Kidston Island was a building housing change rooms, washrooms and a sheltered outdoor area with picnic tables. Right next to this building was a sign with a trail map. There are three trails on the island; a very short one that leads to a harbour light and some beautiful views of the surrounding area, another one that is just slightly longer than the first one that leads to a rest area overlooking the bay and a third and much longer one that leads to the lighthouse and beach. All of these trails can be linked together for those visitors would wish to encircle the entire island which, I would guess, takes about an hour and is about 2.5 kilometers in length. I didn't encircle the entire island that day but I did hike various parts of the trail.

The beach is small and, although a little rocky, the water is crystal clear and great for swimming. There were two lifeguards on duty while I was there and the beach was not crowded. In fact, even though it was a beautiful afternoon, the entire island was almost deserted with maybe a dozen people. That was the best thing about it; it was quiet, peaceful and made for a great getaway from the crowds in the town of Baddeck. I found myself a quiet place near the beach, overlooking the sparkling waters of the Bras D'or lakes, where I could see dozens of sailboats passing by and relaxed in the sun with a book.

The shuttle did return a few times while I was there and I availed of a crossing late in the afternoon. Although the service is free, a tip jar is located at the front of the boat and because the service does rely on the generosity of passengers, it is recommended that you make a donation to the Baddeck Lions Club so they can continue to provide this service for years to come.

LINKS OF INTEREST
http://www.capebretonpost.com/News/Local/2013-07-20/article-3323070/Large-numbers-enjoying-Kidston-Island/1

http://www.capebretonpost.com/News/Local/2013-04-17/article-3222312/Service-club-not-giving-up-fight-for-Kidston-Island-shuttle-service/1

http://www.capebretonpost.com/News/Local/2013-04-15/article-3220645/Kidston-Island-shuttle-service-could-be-over/1