Celebrating Canada Day and the Official Start of summer

Another long weekend has come and gone and it was an extra extra long weekend for me with five days total to enjoy a fabulous time with friends, family and amazing weather. It was a weekend filled with bike rides, hikes, ocean swims, pool dips, family get-togethers and plenty of good food and beer. I even got to spend some time with an old friend I hadn't seen in a long time. 

 

Canada Day is always the long weekend that makes it officially summer for me.  The lifeguards start back at Dominion Beach again and my family heads out for our first outing of the season to celebrate the country's birthday at the Fortress of Louisbourg. Usually, the ocean water starts to warm up around this time too but that wasn't the case this year!  I went for a dip and was only able to stay in for about five minutes after my hands and feet went numb and I felt pins and needles everywhere else.  That being said, it was a refreshing welcome on a hot day and it was nice to not see a single one of those stinging jellyfish that are usually around at the start of summer. 

A few bike rides to Low Point Lighthouse, some hikes along Dominion Beach, refreshing dips, picnics, a scenic drive around Port Morien  and Donkin, sipping on beer at sunset, eating whatever I feel like without guilt...this is what summer weekends are all about....and it's only just started! 

This Canada Day was different.  My little nephew who was only born in December enjoyed his first Canada Day weekend.  It's so fun watching him grow up because everything is so new to him!  I'm sure he doesn't yet comprehend the meaning of the day but I'm sure he sensed something was special about it with so many people around.  

 So much more to look forward to this summer, so many more adventures to come!  I said this one was going to be the best yet and it's so far, summer is living up to that expectation. 

A family of Canada Geese on Canada Day!

A Year of Firsts...Firsts for Missing Out!

The Covid-19 pandemic certainly messed up everything for everyone!  Things are slowly starting to get back to normal here on Cape Breton Island but this past summer was a strange one for me.  It was the summer of "missing out" as I call it.  This is because many of the things that I do every didn't happened.

I was celebrating a big Christmas gathering with friends at our community hall when I first heard about the Corona Virus. No one was taking it seriously back than.  In fact, jokes were being mage about it.  We hugged and sat close to one another at the table. We gathered around a letter that arrived in the mail from Louis in Portugal who had found my father's message in a bottle on a beach in the Azores. We gathered closely around the tree as the children opened their presents. Little did I know it would be my last such gathering for a very long time.   

While enjoying all my usual activities in the summer of 2019, there was no indication of what was to come in just a few short months and how it would upend the lives of everyone around the world.  How we take things for granted when the unknown is lurking in the shadows waiting to pounce on the unsuspecting. I have a lot of catching up to do when this is all over!

My whole life, I've had a strong connection to the Fortress of Louisbourg.  My mother worked there as a guide in the 70s and I have French-Acadian heritage on her side of the family.  Every single year, 39 years straight, I visited the fortress at least once. As a child, I ran around the open grounds of the courtyard, hung out with the farm animals and climbed the fortress walls.  Although I hated the sound of the cannon firings, I looked forward to this part of my visits when I got older.  Sometimes I went to the fortress several times a year but always tried to get there for the Fete de St. Louis Day where they had 18th century military demonstrations and old fashioned fireworks similar to what was used during that period. Recently, I had been attending the Canada Day festivities every year. It's been two years since I've been there. 

The Fortress of Louisbourg, Cape Breton, Nova Scotia

 

 

 

 Baddeck is my kind of town and one that I always visit numerous times each summer but I didn't even drive through it this year.  It didn't occur to me until the end of the season that I hadn't been there.  I was working all summer and was always in a hurry to get to the beaches on the west coast so I bypassed the exit to the pretty little town on several occasions. I was only able to travel around the island on weekends and the idea of trying to navigate the large crowds that congregate in Baddeck on summer days kept me away.  The monthly festival that had been taking place for the past few summers didn't take place this year so that was another reason I never went.    

 

 

Every fall since I moved back home in 2011, there's one event I look forward to all year round and that's the Celtic Colours International Festival.  The concerts, the guided hikes, the markets, the galleries, the community meals.....how I miss all of these things!  Sure, I can watch the festival online, but it's just not the same as being there in person.  

Even my trips to the Cape Breton Highlands National Park were scaled back this year.  I usually make a trip up there at least once every two weeks.  I only went once this summer and once just a few weeks ago when the leaves were changing colour. I can't imagine a year without going to the Cape Breton Highlands; of all the places on Cape Breton Island, that's my number one favourite area. Cape Breton weather can be hit or miss and it was a bit of a miss this year with most of the rain and adverse weather happening on weekends, which happened to be the only time I could go anywhere. 

Visits from family who live away, missed events and festivals and two years spent mostly close to home.  Once someone who used to love going on multiple road trips a week, I'm now used to staying close to home and have learned to love the things my own backyard has to offer.  With the price of gas, this's probably best.  My older, high-mileage Hyundai is certainly appreciating the break!  

Despite missing out on some yearly traditions, I found new places to explore around Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, ate at some new places, spent lots of time with family and dreamed of a future free of this virus so I can get back on the road....exploring near and far and not caring about whether or not I'm standing six feet away from a stranger or if I forget my mask in the car.  Well actually, I might hold on to the mask. I haven't had a cold or any sickness since the pandemic began!

The old railbed that passes near a trail in Gardiner Mines, Cape Breton Island.

Exploring the Area Around the Louisbourg Lighthouse

While the little town of Louisbourg on Cape Breton Island is mostly known for being home to the Fortress of Louisbourg, which is a top attractions on the island, it's also home to another popular attraction.  If you travel to Louisbourg to visit the fortress, I highly recommend you make some time to also visit The Louisbourg Lighthouse.  

The Lighthouse itself is active to this day and is the third lighthouse to be located in this location.  The current structure was built on the site that was once home to the oldest lighthouse in Canada which was built in the 1730s.  Ruins from the original and subsequent lighthouses are still visible today.  

Also on site are a picnic area, scenic look-offs and a 2-kilometre hiking trail with ocean views, opportunities to view local wildlife and interpretive panels. 

Events at the Fortress of Louisbourg

While the Fortress of Louisbourg is open every day during tourist season for tours, there are many other events that happen each year at the fortress including guided tours by candlelight, dinner theatres and concerts.  These events tend to book up fast so if you're planning to travel to Cape Breton in the future, make sure to check for events happening at the fortress and book your spot as early as possible!

The first event I went to outside of regular fortress hours was a candlelight walking tour of the grounds.  The fortress is much different under the cover of darkness and this tour was fantastic.  If I remember correctly, there was music and 18th century snacks. 

The Fortress of Louisbourg - A Must see on Cape Breton Island

The Fortress of Louisbourg is quite a distance away from the Cabot Trail but it's just as much an absolute must-see for anyone visiting Cape Breton Island.  I've gone to the fortress at least once every year since I was born.  I have a family connection to the Fortress since my mother worked there for quite a few years and I have French ancestry.  Although Covid-19 prevented me from getting out to the fortress so far (summer is not over yet!), I miss it and not getting there will leave a huge void in my summer plans.

The grounds features a reconstructed 18th-century French fortress and the site saw two major battles in the 1700s. Although only a small fraction of the original fortress was reconstructed, the site today is quite impressive.  Staff in period costumes, a restaurant serving 18th-century meals and building interiors fashioned in the way they would have been almost 300 years ago.  

Throughout the year, special events are held at the fortress and occasionally, world-renowned reenactments and grand encampments are held where costumed volunteers participate in mock battles that simulate the original ones. 

A reenactment at the Fortress of Louisbourg

Participants in period costumes getting ready to go to mock battle

Summer so far....

About a month ago to the day, I was wondering if we would even get a summer here on the East Coast of Canada.  Into the first week of July, it was still cold, foggy, rainy and even snowy in higher elevations.  Now?  Well, let's just say things changed completely around and we have been in the midst of a major heat wave.  In fact, I just heard today, that we basically shattered all weather-related records for highest temperature and longest stretch of extreme temperatures.  The temperature today was 30 degrees Celsius and 39 with the humidity - that is almost unheard of in this part of the world and it's been like this for weeks now!  I'm quite sensitive to the sun (not so much the heat and humidity as long as I'm out of the sun) so I've been staying indoors a lot more than I usually would.  My walking/biking workouts take place much earlier in the morning before the heat peaks and when I am not hunkered down in my cool-ish apartment, I am at Dominion Beach swimming and sipping on a cold beer in the shade.

All in all, summer has been going great for me.  While everyone else complains about the heat, I make the most of it.  I recently acquired a new toy - a canon DSLR camera with interchangeable lenses and all that fun stuff so I've been busy trying to master it.  I did a lot of the usual summer things too.  I ventured out to Rendell's Farm in Bras d'Or and picked some strawberries so I could skimp on groceries, save some money and eat nothing but strawberry shortcakes for two weeks.  I also spent a week in Newfoundland and the Canada Day long weekend in Margaree with fireworks, beaches and hiking.  Of course, Canada Day itself was spent at the Fortress of Louisbourg as it has been for the last 6 or 7 years.  I've been on a few hikes in the Framboise area too. Last weekend, I spent the day roaming the Cheticamp/Margaree/Inverness area beach-hopping, swimming and getting to know my camera better. Ive also been following a family of endangered piping plovers at the beach near my house.  They are flying now but I first spotted them only hours after they hatched. 

As for the final leg of summer?  Hoping to get some kayaking and camping in before the cold weather returns.  Hiking can wait until the fall and swimming will take its place until than.  I hope you all are enjoying summer (or winter depending on where in the world you are I suppose!) and please stay tuned for more posts about my adventures around Cape Breton and hopefully Alberta if I get to go there as planned later in the fall.

A Fantastic Summer...has Turned into a Fantastic Fall

Summer was awesome. Kicked it off with a relaxing (and cold) camping trip to Englishtown Ridge followed by an endless string of events that saw me fully in my element; at the beach, in the sun, outdoors! The Grand Re-opening of the Keltic Lodge, Canada Day at the Fortress, a family reunion in Cheticamp, several trips to Baddeck and Framboise, camping for a total of 9 nights at Broad Cove, hiking the Mabou Highlands (and a number of other trails!), swimming at Inverness Beach and Chimney Corner and a 3-day birthday celebration in Cheticamp on the Labour Day Weekend. On September 16th, I saw summer off with a bang when I jumped on a flight headed to Glasgow, Scotland where Explored the cities and Highlands for nine days. So now you understand why I have not been posting much lately! I've been busy exploring and traveling and gathering ideas for the posts that will be coming in the near future. This is what happens when I work for three summers straight. I go crazy making up for all that lost time spent in the office when I would rather be in the woods, on the beach or jet-setting off to some faraway land.

Fall is off to a great start. Well, except today. We are getting some of the nasty remnants of Hurricane Matthew and it's not pretty. People being evacuated from their homes, cars floating down rivers that were once streets, more than 200 milliliters of rain in some places - and that fell in less than 12 hours. Only 48 hours ago, I was swimming in the ocean at Inverness Beach! Imagine, swimming in the ocean on October 8th one day and being slammed by a tropical storm the next. We've always had crazy, unpredictable weather here in Cape Breton but the last few years, it seems to be getting crazier. So far this fall, I've kayaked in St. Esprit, I've been around the Cabot Trail and I've been doing a lot of beach-combing. Trying to take in as much of that sun and warm air as possible before winter arrives.

Celtic Colours started this week too and I am hoping to take in some of those events. There is a guided Hike of Mica Hill that I would like to do on Wednesday if the weather is good and also a guided walk in Judique I would like to do. Next Saturday is the big final show of the festival that I go to every year so that should be a a blast as it usually is! I also have some air miles I would like to use before they expire on December 31st so I may just jump on a plane once again this fall and head to the Rocky Mountains of Alberta to visit my sisters in Canmore and Banff. So that is where I'm at with the blog. I'm still here. Lots to come. Stay tuned :)

So Many Places are Near and Dear to my Heart

Wreck Cove General Store – I have made the trip from Lingan to Ingonish hundreds (maybe even thousands!) of times and have stopped at this store every single time. It’s tradition. The store has been there since I can remember and it hasn’t changed since the first time I stopped. That’s why I like it – it never changes. The outside is rugged and old-fashioned and so is the inside. When I walk in there, it’s like I’m walking into the past, into one of those old ma and pop stores I used to frequent when I was kid but have all since disappeared. Even if I don’t need to buy anything, I go in and look around and have a friendly chat with the cashier or walk around outside to stretch my legs. If that store were ever to close, the drive to Ingonish would never be the same again!

Kananaskis Country – As I was driving through the Rocky Mountains near the town of Canmore, I stopped to take a break and noticed a gravel road near a reservoir that looked like it went right up into the mountains. If you’ve been following this blog for a while, you know that I don’t pass up too many opportunities – especially ones that involve me driving up roads that I’ve never been on before. I didn’t know it at the time but I found out later that the area I drove into (and got lost in, of course) was known as Kananaskis Country. There was a maze of roads up there and it didn’t take long for me to get lost. But that was ok because the scenery was out-of-this-world, like nothing I had ever seen before. And there was no one else around! I didn’t see a single other human being during the many hours I wandered that remote region. The air was crisp, there wasn’t a breath of wind and the only sounds were of birds chirping and trees rustling. It was like I was the only person left on the planet.

The Fairy Hole – Hard to get to but well worth the trip! Tucked away in a far corner of the Bras d’Or area, at the end of a long dirt road is the fairly difficult trail leading to one of Cape Breton’s best kept secrets. The trick to getting the most out of a visit? Go when the tide is low. So that is what I did. I arrived at the trailhead late in the afternoon and made the hike down to a small, rocky beach. From there, I had to swim through some very rough waters filled with giant boulders to an entrance in the side of the cliff. I was tossed about and came out bruised and cut but made it through that entrance to be greeted by a site that was almost fairytale-like; a round pool of deep blue water protected by large rocks and cliffs so the raging waters of the bay could not disturb me. The most eerie thing about the swimming hole was how warm the water was for that time of year compared to the water raging just a few feet away. It was October, not a time of year that is great for swimming in Atlantic Canada. The other eerie thing was the deep, dark cave that lurked right above the swimming hole. I didn’t dare go in since the tide was coming up but it’s on my list! I did, however, enjoy the warm waters of that spectacular swimming hole for a couple of hours.

Bell Island – Another island within an island. Bell Island is located about a half-hour boat ride from Portugal Cove on the bigger island of Newfoundland. I decided, on the spur of the moment one day, to take a little day trip over to the little island I often admired from the shore at Topsail Beach. There was a small town with a museum and some resting areas but it was the leisurely drive on the one road that went completely around the island that really made the trip worthwhile. There were hardly any other cars around so it was like I had the entire island to myself as I drove the windy road and admired the surrounding view. I pulled over at a little park by the water with some trees and a little beach and just sat there in the sun until the last ferry crossing of the day took me back to the other side.

St. Anne’s Loop – There is an option to take the ferry at Englishtown to get across the bay to the North Shore but I almost always take the long way. Why do I chose to waste time and gas to go the long way around? Because I don’t see it as a waste of time or gas. This scenic loop takes me about forty-five minutes out of my way but it is worth every minute. The road is windy and almost free from potholes (which makes it very fun to drive!), it is almost always deserted (which means I have the road to myself to drive as slow or as fast as I please!), there is a quiet little picnic park to stop and rest and there are frequent views of the bay through the trees. When the moon is full, sometimes I drive to St. Anne’s just to go around that loop and back home again because there is just something about that road on a clear, moonlit night that makes it perfect for summer night cruise.

Fortress of Louisbourg – As a child, the Fortress of Louisbourg, a reconstructed 18th century fortress on Cape Breton Island, was like a giant playground. There were so many buildings and rooms to explore, places to hide and walls to climb. Today, it is still like that to me. Although I have explored those buildings and exhibits over and over again over the years, I still love to go to the fortress at least once a year to just wander those gravel streets and imagine what it must have been like to live in such an interesting time in history.

Under the Seal Island Bridge – Anyone who has driven on the Trans-Canada Highway through Cape Breton has gone over the Seal Island Bridge, that massive structure that makes it possible to pass that body of water that cuts between Kelly’s Mountain and Boularderie Island. Some people are afraid of crossing over it because it is so high and narrow and is said to sway on very windy days. Other people, like myself, love crossing it! Recently, I discovered something else to love about the bridge – that there is a way for me to get underneath it and experience it in a while new way. I love being able to crawl underneath the workings of the bridge for the simple fact that hundreds of people are driving right above me and have no idea that I am there. It’s also cool under there on hot days and the view is amazing!

California/Nevada Border – I’ve only been there once but there was just something about crossing over that state line that gave me a sense of achievement. As a child growing up in Canada, California was this magical place with beaches, sunshine, parties and happy people. This is what flashed across TV screens and was highlighted in books and magazines. I just always wanted to go to California and experience that for myself. I reached that point on that deserted, lonely, desert highway mid-day and stopped to take in the moment and, of course, get a picture of the sign saying I had reached the threshold of the two states. Crossing that state line fulfilled a childhood dream…even if I only went as far as Death Valley National Park!

That Long Sandy Beach in the Magdelan Islands – I always wanted to travel to the Magdelan Islands, the archipelago that lies between Prince Edward Island and Quebec in the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the place my great-grandparents hailed from. I finally got that chance in 2009 and had no idea what to expect before I arrived. I was mesmerized by the scenery and relaxed way of life on the islands but I most intrigued by a sandy beach I discovered quite by accident. The main highway passing through the main island is lined by sandy beaches but driver’s are unable to see them because they are hidden behind giant sand dunes that line the highway. I noticed foot paths leading over the dunes in some places and decided to park the car and follow one over to the other side. I’ve been to the southern United States and the Caribbean and have yet to see a beach as spectacular as the one I found that day. Long with soft, white sand and warm, blue waters. The best part? It was completely and totally deserted!

The Beach in Playa Del Carmen, Mexico – To some people, a beach is a beach and they are all the same. To me, every beach I’ve ever visited had something unique and the beach lining the town of Playa Del Carmen was quite different from many of the beaches I have visited. During the day, locals and visitors congregated together on the beach which was lively with music, volleyball games and people out to enjoy the nice weather and relax. By night, it was something different. The long, sandy stretch was a welcome alternative to a night spent in a nightclub or hotel room watching TV. Each night during my visit, I took my place in the warm sand and listened to the sounds and smells around me. Gentle waves rolling ashore and Mexican music and the smell of freshly cooked local fare coming from the beachside restaurant behind me. I couldn’t imagine spending my evenings in the town any other way!

Day Hike Along the Louisbourg Lighthouse Trail

I’m used to working all winter and having my summers off but this year, I worked all winter, had the spring off and got called for a job in June which meant I had to work through the summer. That also meant I didn’t have a lot of time to do two of my favorite activities; camping and hiking.

I didn’t get the opportunity to participate in a hike until the last week of summer. I received an invite a few days before to participate in a group hike of a trail I wanted to do for a long time, the Louisbourg Lighthouse Trail. Lynne Doucette is an avid outdoor enthusiast, hiker and yoga instructor. When she is not exploring the beautiful island of Cape Breton in search of new trails to hike and beaches to comb, she teaches yoga in various rural communities around Cape Breton. She also loves to hike with friends and especially loves to show her favorite hiking spots to people who are interested in exploring new trails....like me that day. I was interested in hiking a trail I had heard about but had never hiked and I couldn't have asked for a better guide!

I arrived in Louisbourg to meet the rest of the group late that morning and after some introductions, we set out on the trail. It was warm when I left my house in Lingan that morning but, as per usual, Louisbourg was much colder and windier. The only thing missing was the fog bank that usually threatens the coast. Because it was colder than any of us had expected and because some members of the group had other engagements to tend to later that day, we agreed to hike for four hours; 2 hours into the trail and two hours back. The trail goes on and on for many miles and some have even said it goes all the way to Gabarus but anything beyond our set limits for the day would have to wait for another time.

This coastline has a lot of history attached to it. It once served as the battlegrounds between the French and the English and numerous ships are known to have gone down in the area. For decades, treasure hunters have searched the coast high and low. Many of these efforts turned up nothing while others have turned up more than anyone could imagine. The area is very rich with history and culture and one can learn more about the area by visiting the Fortress of Louisbourg, which is a recreation of a portion of the original fortress that once stood in the 18th century.

I was worried that the high winds might make the hike unbearably difficult but once we started moving, the air didn’t feel quite as cold. The trail started in an open area with scenery that included the lighthouse, large rocks, cliffs, barrens and a choppy ocean. Once we got into the more wooded area, the wind died down a bit. I could immediately see that the trail would be a diverse one. We made our way through the wooded area. I thought I knew a lot about the outdoors but I was learning so much more from my more knowledgeable hiking partners who knew every plant and berry! Others must have really liked that hike and possibly either hiked it often or hiked it all the way through because there was a makeshift campsite at one point along the trail.

There weren’t very many other hikers on the trail that day I presume due to the wind and chilled air. We hiked two hours and stopped to discuss whether we should turn around and head back like we had planned or keep going a bit more. We decided it was best, since the wind was picking up and it was starting to look like it might rain, to find a sheltered place to eat lunch before heading back.

We came to a rocky area where there were large boulders and cliff edges and set out to find one that was sheltered enough from the wind to allow us to eat our lunch without it being blown into the ocean. We found the perfect place right behind some large boulders on top of a cliff facing the water that was surprisingly very sheltered. I hadn’t gone for my weekly groceries yet that week so I didn’t have much of a lunch. I brought a bottle of water, some yogurt and a protein bar and usually that is all I need on any hike anyway. The others went all out and had lots of goodies, some of which they shared with the rest of the group. These goodies included healthy snacks of bread and cheese, blueberry muffins, dark chocolate and coffee but the best part of it was the experience; an outdoor café surrounded by spectacular scenery, pristine wilderness and the sounds of the ocean below all shared with some newfound friends who share the same love of the great outdoors as I do and whom I hope to share more of these outdoor adventures with in the near future!

We took our time eating our lunch and admiring that view before beginning the two-hour hike back. Coming around that sheltered little areas was a challenge as the wind must have shifted and was even more fierce than it was before we took shelter. Walking against that wind was quite hard but that natural, fresh air hitting my face and washing away the stress that accumulated through the long work week was something I welcomed and the bonus of having that cool, salty sea spray hit my bare skin made it that much more enjoyable.

Whenever I embark on a hike, it seems the trek back to the car is always quicker and this hike was no exception, unfortunately. When the parking lot came into view and I could see my black Sonata gleaming in the midday sun, I knew that that lovely afternoon on the trail was coming to an end. One more trail knocked off my hiking bucket list…and many more to come!

A Guide to Cape Breton Island

Overview

Just a little bit east off the Coast of mainland Nova Scotia in eastern Canada is the tiny island of Cape Breton. While the island belongs to the province of Nova Scotia and is a part of Canada, it is nothing like any other place in the country…or in the world for that matter. It is hard to know where to begin in telling you what the island has to offer because there is so much. The culture, the history, the scenery, the beaches, the hiking, the food, the nightlife! One can travel to Cape Breton Island and enjoy a taste of all of these things in just one day if they wanted to. Ideally, a good solid week is usually enough to get a good taste of the island. Longer is even better. And you will want to stay longer because the island has that effect on people; they come, they fall in love with the peaceful landscapes, the isolated beaches, the down-to-earth people and the lively nightlife. They leave with a heavy heart. Most come back again and again, some come back and never leave.

Best Places to Visit in Cape Breton

Sydney
Locally known as Cape Breton Island’s unofficial capital, the city of Sydney may be small (with only about 30,000 people) but there is much to see and do. The Sydney Boardwalk is a great place to start your visit. This boardwalk runs along a section of the harbour downtown and in the warmer months, buskers gather to show off their various talents to the crowds that gather on warm summer nights. It’s a great place to watch the boats coming and going, to watch a starry night sky or enjoy a plate of Fuzzy’s Fries or an ice cream float or some homemade fudge from the Cape Breton Fudge Co located nearby. A few small museums, like Cossitt House and St. Patrick’s Museum, are located in the downtown area and these are great places to learn more about the history. Come nightfall, one can learn about the darker side of the local history by taking the guided Ghosts and Legends of Historic Sydney walking tour. The city is also home to many restaurants (with both ethnic and local fare), cafes, bars, retail shops and a casino.

Glace Bay
Glace Bay is a mere twenty-minute drive from downtown Sydney and just embarking on a tour of the Miner’s Museum makes the trip worth while. Upon entering the museum, visitors can see a number of exhibits that depict the life of the average coal miner from the time coal started to be mined in the area until the industry ceased to exist in 2001. The next step in a visit to the museum sees visitors donning a cape and hard hat in preparation to enter a real coal mine complete with all the fixings that a miner would see during a typical shift. The guide, a retired coal miner himself, has lots of stories to tell about the camaraderie that developed between miners and the dangers that awaited them around every turn. I highly recommend taking a tour of the museum on a day when the famous Men of the Deeps hold one of concerts in the auditorium. This choir made up of retired coal miners put on a spectacular show that can bring grown men to tears!

Mira
The name Mira may sound familiar to you and that is probably because you’ve heard about it in the song “Song for the Mira” written by Allister MacGillivray and performed by numerous artists over the years. Mira is not far from the urban center of Sydney but the peaceful and quiet surroundings make it seem like you are in the middle of nowhere. One can spend a perfect summer day walking sandy Mira Gut Beach, sailing down the Mira River or relaxing on the banks of the river at Mira Provincial Park. Two Rivers Wildlife Park is also located in the area and visitors can see many of the wild animal species – mountain lion, coyote, wolf, otters, moose and reindeer - that make the park their home.

Framboise and Area
This is one of the most remote areas of the island. Deep woods, long sandy beaches, desolate coastline and a sparse population make this an ideal place to get away and admire nature without any distractions. There are a few historical museums and provincial parks in and around the town of St. Peter’s but, for the most part, you will be surrounded by pure wilderness. Morrison’s Beach is a great place to spend an evening roasting marshmallows over a fire and watching the night sky and if you like to fish, some of the best fishing holes are located in the area.

Louisbourg
If you only have the choice of visiting a couple of places on Cape Breton Island, be sure to include Louisbourg in your itinerary. The town’s claim to fame is the reconstructed 18th century French fortress that stands on the edge of the town. When it was originally constructed, it was much bigger than what is there today but The Fortress of Louisbourg was once a bustling fortified town until the English attached and seized it for good in the mid 1700’s. Today, visitors can walk through the fortress and experience what it was like to live in those times. Some original artifacts are on display throughout the grounds and guides are dressed in period costume. Even the restaurant serves meals that would have been typical of meals served in the 18th century. After spending a morning or afternoon at the Fortress, relax and take a cool dip at Kennington Cove Beach or have a picnic near the old lighthouse at the other end of town.

Baddeck
There is so much to say about Baddeck, I don’t know where to begin! First of all, the town itself is right in the middle of the island and makes for the perfect central destination from which to embark on various adventures. Everything on the island is about an hour’s drive or less away from Baddeck. Baddeck is a resort town popular with movie stars (Madonna, Sylvester Stalone, Sean Connery just to name a few) and it is the world-class sailing on the Bras d’Or Lakes, the fine dining restaurants and the quiet and relaxing nature of the town that draws them and many visitors each year to the town. However, you do not need to be a famous movie star to enjoy (and afford) all that Baddeck has to offer. The Yellow Cello offers delicious and affordable meals and snacks in a cozy café that hosts live entertainment. A five-minute boat ride takes visitors across a small bay to Kidston Island where there is a beach, a lighthouse and some walking trails. For a mere twenty-five bucks, one can enjoy a sail on the Bras D’or lakes onboard the beautiful schooner The Amoeba and see bald eagles and Alexander Graham Bell’s stately mansion, Beinn Bhreagh. Speaking of Alexander Graham Bell, did you know that this famous inventor of the telephone and many other inventions once lived and worked in Baddeck. It’s true and visitors can see his work and learn all about his life at the Alexander Graham Bell Museum.

Ingonish
Ingonish is another must-see on any visit to Cape Breton Island. The town is at the opening of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and is along the famous Cabot Trail. While in Ingonish, visitors can enjoy a number of long, sandy beaches including Ingonish Beach, North Bay Beach and Black Brook. A number of walking trails are located in the area. Franey Mountain, Warren Lake, Broad Cove Mountain, Middle Head and Sqeaker’s Hole are just of few of those trails. Maryanne Falls is a great place to admire two waterfalls and take a swim in one of the freshwater pools below and freshwater swimming is also available at Warren Lake. Because Ingonish is a hub along the Cabot Trail, there are a number of restaurants, gift shops and places to stay such as the Keltic Lodge Resort and Spa which is one of the most famous and nicest resorts on the entire island. The Highland Links Golf Course has been rated as one of the top ten golf courses in North America. When you are ready to move along the Cabot Trail towards the next major hub on that route, you will pass through some of the most beautiful scenery in all of Canada. In fact, the Cabot Trail, with its rolling hills, rocky coastline, and deep valleys that meet the sea, has been voted one of the most scenic drives in North America. Along this route, some can’t miss stops include Gampo Abbey Monastery and The Skyline Trail which is said to be one of the most scenic walking trails in all of Nova Scotia. A number of other hiking trails, picnic parks, beaches, gift shops and waterfalls are also located on this 100-kilometer-long stretch of scenic highway.

Cheticamp
The Cape Breton Highlands National Park ends where Cheticamp begins but the beauty of the Cabot Trail continues on through the town and beyond. This small French/Acadian fishing village with its colorful houses, well-manicured lawns and rocky coastline sits at the foothills of the surrounding mountains. The town, although small, is a major hub in the area. Grocery stores, retail shops, coffee shops, bars, hotels and a number of restaurants are scattered about. Several museums, a world-renowned golf course and a scenic boardwalk are all located in the village. Camping is available at the opening of the Highlands Park and near the sandy beach at Plage St. Pierre. Several hiking trails, including La Buttereau, are located near the entrance to the town going into the national park and some of the most beautiful sunsets on the island are seen from the look-offs and beaches in that area too. Heading west on the Cabot Trail the town of Cheticamp fades away and the scenery gives way to rolling meadows on one side and the raging sea on the other. At the bridge at Margaree Harbour, you can go one of two ways but they both end up in the same place. The road that goes towards Chimney Corner is a windy one along the coast. Whale Cove Beach, with its warm waters and sandy bottom is a great place to take a nice dip on a hot day. The other route runs through a forested area with old homes and fields. No matter which way you go, you eventually end up in the town of Inverness.

Inverness
Inverness is mostly known for its long, sandy beach that runs from one end of the town to the other. A boardwalk and beachside café welcome visitors at one end and the other end is a quiet, windswept, lonely stretch of Atlantic coastline with cute little cabins perched atop the dunes. The town itself is lined with restaurants, shops and cafes and a newly built golf course has been added to the island’s list of world-class courses that are said to be among the best in North America. Inverness was once a mining town and visitors can learn more about this part of the town’s history by visiting the Inverness Miner’s Museum.

Hotels in Cape Breton Island

Where to Eat in Cape Breton
When it comes to places to have a great meal in Cape Breton, the choices are endless. There are many different types of restaurants all over the island from small take-out canteens to fine dining. Coastal Waters in Ingonish offers a wide range of items. The plates are big, the prices won’t break the bank and the staff is friendly and accommodating. Le Gabrielle in Cheticamp is a unique restaurant inside a lighthouse-inspired building that offers a wide range of local favorites including fresh seafood, pasta dishes, wraps and many more. The Chowder House in Neil’s Harbour is home to some of the Island’s best seafood dishes and the restaurant overlooks the scenic rocky coastline that surrounds the small fishing village. The Red Shoe Pub in Mabou is one of the most famous pubs/restaurants in Cape Breton for a number of reasons including the fact that it is owned by some of the members of the most famous musical families on the island, The Rankins. Patrons are often graced by performances by some of the most accomplished musicians from Cape Breton. Various seafood dishes, fresh salads and baked goods are just some of the delicious down-home items that can be found on the menu. Amedeos in downtown Sydney specializes in authentic homemade Italian Cuisine served in a stylish and comfortable bistro. Governor’s is located on the Sydney Waterfront and serves up a variety of local favorites and patrons can enjoy live entertainment during their meal on many nights during the week.

How to Stay Safe in Cape Breton
Cape Breton is not a dangerous place to travel to by any means. However, just like you are at home or anywhere that you travel, its important to always be familiar with your surroundings and be aware of potential dangers that could occur. Keep an eye on your belongings and lock your car when you are away from it. During the late summer, storms sometimes creep up the coast and cause high sea levels and large waves so it is very important that you stay away from the coastline during these storms. In the highlands, in particular, bear and coyote encounters are common but rarely do these animals interact with humans. If you do cross the path of one of these wild animals, try to make a large beeline around them, scream or make loud noises if approached and make sure to always have a stick or bear spray with you when you are hiking or camping in the backcountry. Moose and deer often wander onto the highways in many areas of the island. Reducing your speed and keeping a sharp eye on the road and ditches in these areas are good practices to ensure you do not hit one of these animals.

How to Save Money in Cape Breton
While it may cost a bit to get to Cape Breton depending on where you are traveling from, generally, it is quite cheap to travel around the island once you are there. If you want to save money on food, try eating at one of the great diner’s that offer delicious food at cheap prices like Mike’s Lunch in Glace Bay or Fitzgerald’s near the Seal Island Bridge. There is a hostel located in Pleasant Bay that offers very cheap accommodations and camping is an option during the summer months if you want to save money on accommodations.

Finally, Don’t leave Cape Breton without attending a Ceilidh, which is a traditional Celtic gathering with fiddles, dancing and singing. The biggest Ceilidh that is held every year in October is the world-renowned Celtic Colors Festival which features traditional Celtic artists from all over the world who converge on the island for ten days of non-stop music and cultural events in various venues all over Cape Breton. If you travel to Cape Breton during this time of year, be sure to take a drive around the Cabot Trail because the area is known for its beautiful fall foliage.