A Delightful Summer-like Fall Day in Southeast Cape Breton

What a fall we are having here in Cape Breton.  A fall that seems like a late summer!  And you know it's great weather when even the southeast coast of the island is warm, sunny and without the usual fog and wind.  

I took advantage of a lovely day with temperatures predicted to reach 23 degrees with sun and light winds.  I headed to the Framboise area for some hiking and beachcombing. 

I love this area of the island because it's remote and there's never anyone around so it's the perfect place to unwind and get away from it all.  I started the day with a scenic drive all the way to Grand River and backtracked to the long, narrow gravel road that leads to Blue Lake and a pristine ocean coastline that I knew I'd have all to myself. 

I walked along the ocean in the sand until it became to hard too walk and crossed the dunes to walk along the lake.  I intended to walk as far as I could see, switching back and forth between ocean beach and lakeside beach but I found a lovely little beach along the lake where the dunes were high enough to block the wind coming off the ocean.  This is where I sat for a rest.  

Well, that rest ended up taking 3 hours!  That place was so relaxing, quiet and scenic that I couldn't get myself to leave.  I sipped on a cold beer and skipped some rocks in the lake but mostly just laid in the sand watching the eagles soar above and the white fluffy clouds go by.  

When I finally decided to get going, the sun was low in the sky and it was too late to keep hiking in the direction I had been going if I wanted to be back to my car before dark. I instead drove to St. Peter's for a coffee before heading home along the Bras d'Or lakes...grateful to have been able to enjoy another summer-like day this late in the year. 

A Cape Breton Family Road Trip

"I'll only go for a drive if it's not for too long" was the response my sister gave my father when he proposed we go on a father/daughters day trip somewhere on Cape Breton Island.  Years ago, my father loved going for long drives but now that he prefers to just go from point A to point B, he seemed pleased with this.  "We'll, where would you girls like to go?". My suggestions of Inverness or Ingonish was too far and my sisters suggestion of Louisbourg was shot down because it's always too cold and foggy there.  We all agreed that there wasn't much to do in Baddeck that time of year and The Cabot Trail was out of the question!  There really was only one other area of the island we could go.  Well, it was actually several areas that were interconnected via a series of back roads.  Dad suggested the route.  He said it wasn't a long drive.  He was wrong. 

With no destination in mind, we just drove and ended up on the 125 Bypass and than onto route 4.  I think Dad was hoping we would go to his favourite spot in Framboise but instead of keeping straight in East Bay, we decided to head towards Iona.  Not a bad choice; it's a beautiful drive through Northside East Bay, Eskasoni and Grand Narrows.  However, in Eskasoni, we found ourselves unsure of where to go next. 

"How about we take the ferry at Little Narrows, drive up the Trans Canada Highway and take the Turn-off to Orangedale, drive through Marble Mountain and stop in St Peter's for supper before taking the back way home through Framboise" dad suggested.  "It shouldn't be too long of a drive" he reassured my than 7-months pregnant sister who made it clear she was not in the mood for a terribly long day on the road. 

I love the drive through Northside East Bay and Eskasoni in the fall when the leaves are starting to change.  Really, any drive along the Bras d'Or Lakes is nice any time of year!  We passed through Eskasoni and almost made it to our first destination when we met a road block. Odd since we did not see any signs indicating there was a detour ahead. A road maintenance worker  confirmed that yes we indeed had to turn back the way we came. I remember many years ago a friend pointed out that I don't pay enough attention to road signs.  I guess the same can be said for my father and my sister.  None of us noticed the sign 15 kilometres back that warned of a road block ahead.  There was even a big flashing arrow pointing to where we needed to go to make the detour around the area where the work was being done. 

We finally made it to Grand Narrows and Iona.  We took a little break to enjoy the views from the high parking lot at the Highland Village Museum before moving on.  Once we made it across Little Narrows on the car ferry, we drove west along the Trans Canada Highway before making the turnoff towards Orangedale and Marble Mountain. 

The road that goes through Marble Mountain and area has been described as one of the worse on the island and we discovered that that was indeed true!  Potholes so big I thought the car would fall apart or we would end up in the ditch trying to get around them!  

Somehow, we made it across that bumpy old road intact and drove into the pretty little town of St. Peters. At Louie's Cosy Corner, we sat down to a hearty meal and relaxed before making the final leg of the journey.  We had two options to choose from: head down Route 4 along the Bras d'Or Lakes or take the "back way" through one of the most rural areas of the island through Grand River, Franboise, Forchu and Gabarus. We choose the back way.  Why not at that point.  We had already been on the road much longer than we intended so why not make the most of it?

We stopped at one of our favorite beaches and stretched our legs near Grand River. It's so peaceful in this part of the island.  All you can hear is the wind howling through the trees, the seagulls squawking  and the waves crashing ashore. We took our time going over that incredibly bumpy highway known as the Fleur de Lis Trail (it was almost as bad as the road going through Marble Mountain) and watched for deer and other animals that often come out in the early evening. 

It was dark when we got home. Tired we were but also satisfied with the lovely day spent together.  After all, with a new baby and winter on the way, it could be a while before we get another chance to hit the road together!

 

 

Waterfalls, Scenic Detours and a Biking Adventure

When I heard that there is a waterfall in New Harris, Cape Breton, just a few kilometres from the Trans Canada Highway, I told myself I would find it before summer's end.  When I heard that the road leading to the waterfall was a wood road leading through a forested area along the water, I decided I would ride my bike to the trail leading to the falls.  I am currently on the lookout for new places to explore with my bike since I now have a bike rack on my car.

I did end up making it to that trail  and to the waterfalls but not with my bike.  I drove to New Harris and as far as the road would go, looking for a trail that could potentially lead to a waterfall.  I heard it was on the right side near the bridge going toward Camp Carter.  I reached the bridge but saw nothing that even remotely looked like a trail so I stopped at some picnic tables near Camp Carter and ate lunch while enjoying the beautiful fall colours that surrounded me.

I continued on to the end of that road, admiring the colourful landscape.  When the road ended and my car could not continue on the narrow ATV trail ahead, I turned back and resumed my search for the trail to the waterfall.  As I drove over the bridge (which I assumed must have been in the vicinity of the waterfall as it went over a river), I noticed some flattened grass near the ditch on the other side.  I got out to investigate and discovered that it was a trail that led along the river and likely to a waterfall. An easy ten-minute hike through some trees brought me to what I was looking for.

 I don't know what the official name of these fall is, but I've heard people call them Camp Carter Falls or simply the waterfalls at Camp Carter.  The trail came out at the top of the falls where I could hear the water rushing and see the spray.  However, I couldn't get a good view of them from that angle so I made my way to the bottom.  Not as easy as it sounds.  A rope was involved.  And some mud and slippery rocks and a steep embankment.  But the view of the falls at the bottom made it worth it.  I rested for a bit and took in those natural surroundings with the changing leaves, the thunderous roar of tons of water coming down into the river below and the felling of cool water lightly spraying my face.  When it started to get dark, I went back up the rope (it was much easier going up!) and headed back to the car.

Instead of taking the 125 all the way home, I made a detour I hadn't taken in many years.  I took the turn-off to Black Rock for a change of scenery and out of curiosity as I forgot what was down there.  I saw some new houses, some very nice ones too and a splendid view of the Bird Islands and then it was back to the TCH and onto the 125...the route home.

 Later that week, I embarked on another late fall adventure, one that I didn't think I would get to do once the weather turned cold.  A few days before I embarked on a bike ride to the Sand Lake/Port Morien area, I was monitoring the weather for possible warm breaks that would allow me to go on a few late-season bike adventures.  A break came on a sunny Wednesday with temperatures predicted to reach the high teens by midday.  I got my gear ready and put my bike on the car rack and off I went.

I made the 40-minute drive to Marconi Towers Rd, and parked on the gravel area near the community mailbox.  It rained periodically on the drive from New Waterford but by the time I got the bike off the rack and was ready to go, the clouds had cleared and the sun was out.

I avoided the main road at first and turned onto Marconi Towers Rd. toward the old wood road leading to Sand Lake.  The wind had died down which made the drive through that rural area that much more enjoyable.  The trees were at their autumn height; bright leaves in shades of yellow, orange and red.  And there was no one else around.  No cars, no people, not even any other bikers.  Just me...until I reached the hill approaching the lake and that is where I came across the orange"construction ahead" signs. It was too late to turn around so I waited until the flag person waved me along and I reluctantly passed dangerously close to moving machinery and endured the deafening sound of their workings until I reached the lake path on the other side.  I drove until I reached a quiet spot where I could rest and take in the views .

I only drove along this lake a few times never actually stopped and took a good look at it.  It's strange how I will travel all the way to Ingonish to enjoy Warren Lake, which is a two-and-a-half hour drive away, but this beautiful lake has always been here and it's only a half-hour drive away...and I never think of going there.

I intended to reach to turn around and head back to the car the same way but I kept going instead.  It was so warm and I was loving the fall breeze on my face as I cruised those back roads.  I eventually ended up back on the highway and turned towards Port Morien and that is where I ended up.

It was late in the afternoon and the sun was getting low in the sky when I reached the look off at Port Morien.  I got off the bike and walked down the stairs to the little beach and sat and enjoyed the view of the fishing docks and calm waters of the bay. I could have stayed there all evening but I was not equipped for safe bicycling at night.  I reluctantly headed back to the car.  I took the same way back down the highway, onto the gravel road along the lake, past the construction crew and back to my car.  The sun was starting to go down by that time but rush hour had already gone by so I was in for a relaxing evening n my drive home.

Kidston Island, Baddeck - An Island within an Island

I've always had a fascination with islands, especially small ones that could be seen offshore but were remote and hard to access without a boat. I'm not sure if this fascination comes from the fact that I grew up on an island or because the things that are most out-of-reach are the ones that fascinate us most. All I know is whenever I spot an island offshore or in the middle of a lake or bay, I immediately want to find a way to get to it. But when it comes to Kidston Island in Baddeck, I don't know why I only made a trip to the island for the first time this past week.

I am very familiar with the town of Baddeck. I've spent many summer days visiting the museums, eating in the great restaurants, sailing on the Bras D'or Lakes and shopping in the unique retail shops lining the main street. One thing I never did was visit Kidston Island and I'm not sure why. It fits my criteria for being an explore-worthy destination - its an island, it has a beach, its deserted except for tourists going back and forth and it's fairly easy to get to. Maybe being too accessible made it seem less exciting and less of a challenge.

A recent article in my local newspaper about Kidston Island grabbed my attention and peaked my interest. The article was about the free shuttle that brings people back and forth to the island via a small pontoon boat. This free shuttle has been offered by the Baddeck Lions Club for the last 61 years and the service recently ran into some trouble. In the end, the service stayed and for now, the Lions Club continues to shuttle passengers back and forth to the island on a daily basis during peak season.

The decision to make the hour-long drive to Baddeck to visit Kidston Island came spur-of-the-moment. It was a beautiful sunny day and the restlessness that comes with being confined to the house got to me so off I went on a mini-adventure for the afternoon. The pontoon boat wasn't hard to find. There are signs pointing visitors to its location which is to the right of the main wharf on the Baddeck waterfront. It wasn't there when I arrived but I only had to wait 3 or 4 minutes before the shuttle appeared at the dock. The small pontoon boat holds about a dozen people (all passengers are required to wear a life jacket) and it takes about 5 or 6 minutes to get to the island.

The first thing I saw upon arriving on Kidston Island was a building housing change rooms, washrooms and a sheltered outdoor area with picnic tables. Right next to this building was a sign with a trail map. There are three trails on the island; a very short one that leads to a harbour light and some beautiful views of the surrounding area, another one that is just slightly longer than the first one that leads to a rest area overlooking the bay and a third and much longer one that leads to the lighthouse and beach. All of these trails can be linked together for those visitors would wish to encircle the entire island which, I would guess, takes about an hour and is about 2.5 kilometers in length. I didn't encircle the entire island that day but I did hike various parts of the trail.

The beach is small and, although a little rocky, the water is crystal clear and great for swimming. There were two lifeguards on duty while I was there and the beach was not crowded. In fact, even though it was a beautiful afternoon, the entire island was almost deserted with maybe a dozen people. That was the best thing about it; it was quiet, peaceful and made for a great getaway from the crowds in the town of Baddeck. I found myself a quiet place near the beach, overlooking the sparkling waters of the Bras D'or lakes, where I could see dozens of sailboats passing by and relaxed in the sun with a book.

The shuttle did return a few times while I was there and I availed of a crossing late in the afternoon. Although the service is free, a tip jar is located at the front of the boat and because the service does rely on the generosity of passengers, it is recommended that you make a donation to the Baddeck Lions Club so they can continue to provide this service for years to come.

LINKS OF INTEREST
http://www.capebretonpost.com/News/Local/2013-07-20/article-3323070/Large-numbers-enjoying-Kidston-Island/1

http://www.capebretonpost.com/News/Local/2013-04-17/article-3222312/Service-club-not-giving-up-fight-for-Kidston-Island-shuttle-service/1

http://www.capebretonpost.com/News/Local/2013-04-15/article-3220645/Kidston-Island-shuttle-service-could-be-over/1