Friday, September 18, 2020

End of Summer Cape Breton Road Trip - Route 19 to the Cabot Trail and Back

While many see September 1st and back-to-school time as the end of summer, I refuse to acknowledge that the end is here until the official start of fall on September 22nd.   

Currently, I'm still going for almost daily dips in the ocean, I'm still wearing shorts and tank tops no matter what the temperature and I'm still embarking on road trips to explore beautiful CapeBreton Island.   The best thing about this time of year after school goes back is I have the beaches, trails and attractions almost to myself! 

When I looked at the long-term forecast on September 6th, I noticed a series of hot, sunny days coming up.  On September 9th, I embarked on what would turn into a two-day journey through four counties and dozens of little villages in the western and central parts of the island.  

As I made my way along the Trans Canada Highway headed for the turn-off to the Cabot Trail near Baddeck, I was looking forward to a nice big breakfast at one of my favourite restaurants. 

I intended to stop at The Cedar House Restaurant near the Seal Island Bridge. This is something I do at least once before they close for the season.  All I could think about on the way there was the tasty breakfast with sausage, eggs, toast and hash browns. 

I arrived in the parking lot at around 9:30 and was disappointed to see a "CLOSED" sign in the window.  I contemplated waiting around until 11:00, which was the opening time indicated on the sign, but I wanted to get on the road early.   

Fitzgerald's, which is almost next door and has equally delicious breakfast, was also closed.  I settled for a Tim Horton's breakfast sandwich, hash brown and chocolate chip muffin which I bought at the Tim's near Baddeck and ate on the scenic boardwalk in the pretty little village on the Bras d'Or Lakes. 

I love Baddeck. There's just something about that quaint little village that draws me in.  Unfortunately, I didn't get to spend a whole lot of time in the town this year so my little visit that morning, despite being quick and unplanned, was a welcome little rest before heading out on the day's adventure.  

At the Red Barn, I turn onto the world-famous Cabot Trail. I love driving along this part of the Trail through Hunter's Mountain, Middle River, Lake O'Law and onto Margaree Harbour.   

It's a relaxing, beautiful drive, especially when traffic is light as it was on this day.  Road construction annoys me but I admit I was happy to see a road crew working on a stretch of this road that was getting very bad over the last few years. 

I made it to Inverness Beach at 11:30, which was about the time I expected to arrive.  The forecast was calling for showers and clouds were moving in.  Despite a few dark spots in the afternoon, the rain never came, at least not where I was.  

 I heard it rained in other places but I enjoyed a refreshing dip in waters so clear that even without the sun shining down, I could still see straight to the bottom.  I swam for about an hour in those warm, clear waters. 

To dry off, I walked almost the entire length of that four-kilometre beach before coming back to my chair to relax in the sun, which, by that time, was shining.  

 I wasn't expecting it to get hot enough to want to go back in the water but by the time I completely dried off, I was craving another dip. This time of year, I never know if a dip in the ocean will be my last of the season.  I thought to myself "to heck with it, I only live once" and spent the next two hours in the water.  


 

As I floated in the calm sea all by my lonesome, the thought that great white sharks could be lurking nearby didn't even cross my mind.  After all, how scary could a bunch of Ocearch-tagged sharks with names like Jane, Hal and Luna be anyway?

It was late afternoon and starting to cloud over when I came out of the water the second time so I didn't dry off as fast. But it was worth it even if it meant a wet car seat, dripping hair and a car full of caked sand.  

I had planned to stop at some of the beaches along the way to Cheticamp - Chimney Corner, Whale Cove, Belle Cote - but my extra-long visit to Inverness Beach meant I had little time to reach the little Acadian village in time for supper at Le Gabriel Restaurant.  

I did, however, take my time driving along the coast between Margaree Harbour and Cheticamp. This is one of my favourite stretches of road on the island. Ocean on one side, mountains on the other, windy two-lane road stretching through quaint little villages in front of me.  


 

It only took about five minutes for the fantastic staff at Le Gabriel to prepare my veggie nachos and gluten-free chocolate cake, which I enjoyed overlooking the ocean at the bottom of Lapointe Rd. at the edge of town.  The meal was, as it always is, delicious.  As usual, the portions are always too big for me so I was unable to finish all the nachos.  


 

I left room for cake and took the nachos home for a snack later that night. I grabbed a coffee for the road and drove a little ways along the Cabot Trail through the Cape Breton Highlands National Park before turning around at the construction zone near Corney Brook. 

Evening was approaching when I turned off on the Cheticamp Back Road.  I always take this road when heading back towards Route 19. It's a nice change of scenery in the foothills of the mountains.   

At the intersection of the main road, I kept going straight onto Cheticamp Island, another short, but scenic drive I like to do whenever I pass through the area.

Back on the highway, I intended to head towards Baddeck at Margaree Harbour. But almost as if my car knows the way, it turned onto the road that goes through St. Rose and Chimney Corner and then onto the Beach Road #2 in Inverness to find a parking spot in the exact same place I parked only a few hours before.   

Sunset was approaching.  The water was calm.  The water was clear. The air was still warm.  I couldn't resist another dip in the ocean.

The sunsets on the west coast of the island are among the most beautiful I've ever seen anywhere in the world.  Beautiful sunset + dip in warm, clear waters =  an unforgettable summer evening. There's just something about the way those waters glisten in that fading light and the calmness I sense when those gentle waves lull me into a state of sheer bliss.


 

I don't usually like driving home through remote areas late at night because there are a lot of moose and deer around.  I took my time driving along that dark, lonely road through Margaree. Until Next time.... 

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